UMASS/AMHERST 312066 0333 3013 7 ;.-.'--r --':.•:• —«», r,mm,iwnm, it i ci.vma*m*aa*mmms**ii WBMMWIWIII,.. ■i1 rtw.wnswn 7 7^> C LIBRARY OF THE MASSACHUSETTS AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE n o._.k 8fU_l_ date . 4 -J 888 . SOURCE. H.^^Vl_„^.UY\.A_... m 1875" NINIAN N I V EI N. - ILLUSTRATED WEEKLY JOURNAL GARDENING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. FOUNDED BY WILLIAM ROBINSON, Author of "Alfine Flowers," <&c. THIS IS AN ART WHICH DOES MEND NATURE: CHANGE IT RATHER: BUT THE ART ITSELF IS NATURE.— Shakespeare. VOL. VI I. LONDON: OFFICE: 37, SOUTHAMPTON STREET, COVENT GARDEN, AY. C. MIDSUMMER, 187G. c 1875" V'T THE GARDEN INDEX. INDEX TO VOLUME VII. Abelia triflora, 491 Abies Menziesii, 56 Abutilon Darwinii, 148, 226, '416, 456 ; Due de Malakoff, 35 Acacia lophantha, outdoor, 200 ; Nenra, 395 ; pubescens, 34 Acacias, greenhouse, 384 Acacia wood, value of, 471 Acalypha marginata, 456, 521 Acanthoriza Warscewiczii, 481 Acer polymorpkum pahnatifidum, 452 Acis, species of, 156 Acland, Sir Thoiuas, and tree lopping, 26 Aconitum Napellus, 171 Adiantum Farlcyense for hair decora- tion, 226; gracilliruum, 339; Hcnder- soni, 456 ; Seemanni, 481 ; speciosuin, 465 .Echmea ccelestis, 462 Aerides odoratuni, well-flowered, 500 ^Etnionema grandifiorum, 500 Agaric, Orange milk, 190 Agapanthus, white flowered, 507, 522 Agave beaucarnea, 456 ; Besseriana major, 456 ; (Fourcroya) variegata, 456 ; marginata, 456 ; marmorata, 456 ; Pilgrim, 456 ; polyantha. 456 ; pubescens, 456 ; salmiaua f ol. aurea- variegata, 466 ; Veitchii, 456 Ageratum, Tom Thumb, from seed, 200 Agrostis nebulosa for pots, 252 Allamandas as conservatory plants, 317 Alcinoiis. garden of, 406 Alfa in Algeria, the, 274 Allotment gardens, 329 Allspice, 57 Almond Peach, 92 Aloe ciliaris, 217 ; fruticosa, 26 ; varie- gated American, flowering of, 4S2 Aloes at Kew, 59 ; at Sudbury House, 190, 261 Alonsoa linifolia, 127 ; mystifolia, 124 Alpines at Easter Duddingston, 457 ; white-flowered, 220 Alsophila australis Williamsi, 456 Alternantheras, propagation of, 319 Alyssum saxatile, 482 Amadou, 112 Amelanchier canadensis, 525 Amaryllids, 193 ; sowing and growing, 116 Amaryllis, B. G. Henderson, 170 ; Hen- dersoni coccinea, 346, 363 America, early vegetables in, 296 Amherstia nobilis from cuttings, 385 Amygdalus grandiftora, 92 Andromeda floribunda for house decora- tion, 370 ; Mariana, 370 Anemone, fulgens, 254 ; Honerine Jo- bert, 464 Anemones, all the ; 423 ; at Kew, 484 Angra3cum sesquipedale, 69 Annuals, select hardy, 281, 290; sow- ing, 313 ; transplanting, 389 Anthurium Scherzerianum, fine, 274 ; large-spathed, 317, 318; two-spathed, 481, 507 Aphides, cure for, 261, 312, 327, 485; on Cherry trees, 456 Apple trees, 410 ; canker in, 376, 396 ; new insect pest of, 234; split by cold, 342 ; cordon, 236 Apples, American Crab, 278; Ash- mead's Kernel. 170 ; in various climates, 371 ; French Paradise, 386 ; good keeping, 378, 508 ; keeping out of doors, 412 ; russet belts on, 210 ; select, 16, 46 ; old Nonpareil, 254 ; red-leaf Russet, 62 ; cider, 410 ; golden, 308 ; useful, 107 Apples, grafting, 273; ornamental, 202 Apple-blossom maggot, 4-16, 458 ; pros- pects in Devon, 416 Approaches, 625 Apricots, 409 ; blooming of, 278 ; branches of, dying off of, 295; seedling,'336, 342 ; summer treatment of, 467 Aquarium, portable, 329 ; at Westmin- ster, 69 Aquatic seeds, vitality of, 104 Arabis blepharophylla superba, 416 Aralia, ja'ponica, hardiness of, 328 ; Guilfoylei, 506 Araucaria, largo, 311 ; at Dropmore, 124 Arboretum, Arnold, 84 Arbor-vitce, Eastern, 25 Arbours, rustic, 222, 502 Arbutus Croomei, 55 Aristolochias, 35 Armeria mauritanica, 421 Arran Isles, flora of, 274 Artichokes and rheumatism, 168 ; Globe, planting of, 354; Jerusalem, 90; spring treatment of, 260 Arum Arisarum, 256 Ash trees, late leafing of, 491 Asparagus beds, treatment of, 246, 270, 281, 398 ; ditto, after cutting, 614 ; cooking, 470 ; cutting, 415 ; in old times, 392 ; oyster bed, 295 ; varieties of, 50 ; decumbens, 60 Asphodel, so called, blue, 504, 521 Asters, open ground, 450 ; culture of, 528 Aston, proposed exhibition at, 26 Athyrium, f . f . apicale, 456 ; f . f . Jack- sonia?, 456 Aubretia Eyerii, 336 ; Hendersoni, 484 ; purpurea, 373 Ancubas, fertilising, 22, 146, 183 ; new hybrid, 266 Auricula, double yellow, 503 Auriculas, 422 ; ' old and new, 480 ; properties of, 289 Avenues, 471, 473 Azaleas, amcena Caldwelli, 148 ; perish- ing of buds of, 364 ; bottom-heat for, 318 ; hardy, 491 ; grafting ditto, 233 ; hybrid, 375; top-dressing, 276, 295, new, 505 B. Bactris Gachipaes, 422 Bagatelle, Bois de Boulogne, 112 Balbisia verticillata, 478 Balcony gardens, Spanish, 149 Balsams, culture of, 522 Bambusa viridi glaucescens, 279 Basket plants, town, 316 Barbe de Capuein, 399 Bean, French, Osborn's Forcing, 245, 338, 392, 416 ; Seville Long-pod, 210, 245, 264; trial at Chiswick, 136; Williams' dwarf French, 102 ; forcing French, 37, 416, 490 ; ditto at Burgh- ley, 436, 438 ; best dwarf French, 335, 392 ; Canadian Wonder, 392 ; New- ington Wonder, 392 ; Sion House, 392 ; sowing, 345; Haricot, 393; Kidney, in small gardens, 416 ; Scarlet Run- ner, 393 ; ditto, sowing, 368 ; select, 367 ; Beck's Green Gem, 633 Bedding plants, best varieties of, 172 ; French, 89 ; propagation of, 71 Beech trees, Ivy on, 370 ; notes on, 226 Bee flowers, 404 Bees and the Wistaria, 452 Beet, culture of, 166; Dell's Crimson, 199 ; protecting ornamental, 173 ; select, 357 Begonia, Ascotiensis, 68 ; Emperor, 618 ; Lapeyrouse, 217 ; hardiness of, 89; hardy hybrid, 279; tuberous- rooted, 463 Belgians, new conservatory to be built by King of, 26 Bell, death of Mr. J., 146 Berberis Darwinii, 406 Bergamotte Arsene Sannier, 385 Bertolonia Houtteana, 270, 376, 416 Bertolonias, new, 478 Beschorneria yuccoides, 519 Betula, various species of, 200 Bindweed, exterminating, 416 Birch, Mountain, 396 Birches, climbers on, 220; list of, 200 Bird-scarers, 334, 342 Bird's nests, artificial, 69, 309 Birds and fruit-buds, 111 ; and seeds, 134 ; destruction of Crocuses by, 296 ; garden song, 3S6 Bladder-nut, 128 Blandfordia princeps, 456 Blood-louse, 234 Blumenbachia Chuquitensis, 26, 173 Bog at Glasnevin, 483 Boilers and furnaces, largo, 58 ; explo- sion of gas under, 292, 336, 356 ; gas, 212 ; incrustation of, 493, 496 ; large, 95; setting, 138, 313, 364; sunken, 125, 167, 18S, 212, 232, 252, 271 ; Wat- son's portable, 17 Boldu, 60 Borage, uses of, 50 Borders, arrangement of in seasons, 136 ; herbaceous, how to plant, 165 Borecole, dwarf-curled, 268 Botanical annual, new German, 26 Botanical nomenclature, 501 Botanic Gardens, Regent's Park, 61 Bo tree, ancient, 614 Botryanthus, 194 Bougaiavillea glabra, 35 Bouquets, button-hole, 193, 277 ; flowers for, 90, 139, 251, 329 ; Hepaticas in, 149 Bouvardias, culture of, 253 Box as a scraper, 195 Boxwood, statistics respecting, 234 Brake, common, under trees, 498 Brazil Nuts, 247 Bridges and embankments, 204 Broccoli, preservation of, in winter, 268 ; Northampton Hero, 450 ; planting, 484; select, 231, 357; successional, 396 ; white, 376, 415 ; various kinds of ditto, 393 Brodiffia californica, 396, 416 Brugmansia lutea, 336 Brussels Sprouts, dwarf, 245 ; planting, 467 Buckley, Mr., death of, 82 ; fund for, 102 Buddleia globosa, 498, 499 Bug, American chinch, 624 Bulbs, drying off, 190; spring flower- ing, 124 ; spring planted, 395 Butter cup, fasciatcd, 396 Button-hole flowers, 193, 277, 336 c. Cabbages, sprouting of Early St. John's, 393 ; select, 357 ; best early, 436 ; cure for root grub in, 400 ; grafting, 190, 393 Cacti, edible, 466 Cactus, winter-flowering," 44 Cajophora, 173 Caladium tubers, wintering, 364 Caladiums, culture of, 140 Calceolarias, culture and disease of, 199 ; bedding, 388 Calcutta cyclone, effects of, 192 Calochortus, ccerulea, 396 ; venustns, 620 Caltha leptosepala, 378 Calypso borealis, 378 Camellia, Archduc Etienne, 340; Bianca Geraldine, 340 ; General Cialdini, 217 ; Jardin d'hiver, 217, 238 ; Matteo Mal- fino, 217; reticulata, 364; Valtevareda, 198 ; varieties of ditto, 217 Camellias, bottom-heat for, 318 ; dis- rooting, 232, 238, 264, 272 ; notes On, 318; planting out, 151,168,198,217; pruning, 314 ; shaking dead flowers off, 336 ; top-dressing, 276, 295 ; training, 336 ; white, out of doors, 370, 395 Campanula gargonica, 498 ; tridentata var. Saxifraga, 279 ; Banelieri, 90 Campanulas, alpine, 273 Camphor as a fertiliser, 436 ; spirits of, an insecticide, 456 Canada, climate of , 39 1 Cannabis sativus, 215 Cannas on lawns, 436 Cantharikopho, 40 Capsicum, sweet, 232, 245 Carica cundinamarcensis, 500 Carnations, blooms of, in January, 414 ; culture of, 215, 419 ; tree, 79 ; culture of ditto, 141 Carpet beds, plants for, 371 Carriage drives, 525 Carrot, Altringham, 360 ; Belgian Whits Horn, 361 ; cooking, 339 ; early French forcing, 359 ; green-topped long-red, 361 ; green-topped white Belgian, 362 ; intermediate Luc, 3ti0 ; intermediate Nantes scarlet, 360 ; in- termediate scarlet, 359 ; intermediate scarlet stump-rooted, 359; James's intermediate, 360 ; long lemon, 360 ; long pied, 360 ; long Surrey, 361 ; purple, 361 ; red pale Flanders, Sol ; scarlet horn, 359 ; short lemon, 360 ; wild, 358 ; wild improved, 362 ; white Orlhe, 362; white transparent, 361; white Vosges, 361 Carrots, cultivation of, 362 ; early forcing of, 111, 362 ; insects affecting, 363 ; preparation of ground for, 231 ; seed of, 362 ; storing of, 363 ; various kinds of, 358 Carya olivasformis, 274 Cassia corymbosa, 35 ; genus, 274 Castanea visca, 265 Catalpa bignonioides, 115 Cattleya tricolor, 456 ; Bogotensis, ' 4 Cauliflowers, select, 357 ; "planting out, 167 ; spring treatment of, 260 Ceanothus integerrimus, 396 Cercis canadensis, 144; siliquastrum, Cedrcla, Chinese, 514 478 Cedar, red, in Bavaria, 234 Cedum spurium splendens, 236 Celastrus scandens, 141 Celery, best kinds of, 50 ; culture of, 155 ; early, 289 ; Major Clarke's, 190 ; planting, 453 ; preparation of ground for, 368 ; select, 357 ; sowing, 211 ; Sulham Prize, 146, 155, 314; under glass, 135 Cement for iron, 182; waterproof, 212 Centaurea americana Halli, 81 Centradenia rosea, 190 ; ditto when cut, 272 Chamrepeuce diacantha, 52, 245 ; from seed, 373 Chamairops Fortunei, 600 ; fruiting of, at Boston, 372 ; ditto at Heckfield, 372 Charcoal kilns, 78 Chartometer, a good, 145 Cherries, 409; black-fly on, 466, 467; shedding fruit of, 108 ; early French, 438 ; on walls, 84 ; ornamental, 202 ; select, 16 Chestnuts, notfs on, 266 ; the great Tortwoith, 228 ; starch from, 92 Chicory, blanched, 268, 391 ; treatment of, 333 Chinch bug, 510 Cbionanthus, vitality of a bud of, 192 ; virginica, 145 Chiswick Garden trials, 458 Chloragulum pomeridianum, 81, 103 Clivia miniata, 194 Chrysanthemums, culture of, 484 Church decoration in New York, 365 Cibotium glaucum, 456 Cinchona bark, value of, 234 Cinchona or Chinchona, 282 Cineraria maritima compneta, 256 Cineraria seed, saving, 418 Cinerarias, culture of, 256 ; double, 314, 355, 376 ; Hayes, 413 ; dwarf, 600 Cinnamon, 56, 69 Cissus Davidiana, 199 ; discolor, to pro= pagate, 198 Cistus laurifolius, 499 VI THE GARDEN INDEX. Citrus japonica, 192 Cladrastis tinctoria, 144 Claytonia virginica, 522 Clematis, alma magna, 456 • Blue Perfec- tion, 476 ; double white, 405 ; Duke of Edinburgh, 476 ; Jackmani, 73 ; J. P. Gassiott, 456; indivisa, 31; Lady Alice Nevill, 475 ; Lord Nevill, 475 ; Maid of Kent, 476; Mrs. Hope, 456 ; ovata, 482 ; Grand Duchess, 518 Clemati3es, culture of, 395 Clerodendron Balfourii, 33 ; splendens, 35 Clianthus magnifieus, 35 Climate, Canadian, 391; Scotch, change of, 432 Climbers, indoor, 33 Cloches for salad growing, 154 Cloves, 57 Clubbing in Cabbages, 400 Cochliostema odoratissima, 175 Cocoa-nut fibre, uses of, 100 Cocoa-nut goblets, 26 Ccelogyne cristata, 59 Coffee, chicory in, 416 Colax jugosus, 276 Colchicum luteum, 192 Coleus Chameleon. 344 ; Hero, 396 Coleworts, sowing, 523 Colletia horrida, 406 Colorado Potato Beetle, 101, 128, 272, 296 Combretum purpureum, 35 Commons, acreage of, 296 Conifers, and their synonyms, 286 ; at Bromesberrow, 434; at Dropmore, 124; atKeir, 252; for a damp situa- tion, 42, 82, 132; new, 233; on chalk land, 56 ; synonyms of, 228 ; sowing seeds of, 515; hardiness of Hemlock Spruce, 526 Conservatory Climbers, 34 Conservatory, open air, 373 Conservatories, house-top, 283 Convolvulus, water, 226 Cookery in various countries, 83 Co-operation in farming, 47 Copings, glass, 242 Coprosma Baueriana variegata, 232, 364 Cork a covering for tubs, 175 Cork tree, Algerian, 274 Corn, Cobbett's, 36 ; new sweet, Triumph, 393 ; mummy, 511 Cornish Moneywort, variegated, 70 Cornus, a new, 352 ; florida, 145 CoronUla glauca in winter, 190 Cotoneaster at Kilruddery, 124 Cottage Garden, 369 Covent Garden Market, improvements in, 69, 192 Cowslips, American, 219 ; ditto in North of England, 373 Cranberry jam, 148 Cranberry, varieties of, 312 ; American, 232, 295 ; culture of ditto, 252 Crassula lactea, 171 Crataegus, lobata serotina, 321 ; pyra- cantha crenata, 499, 500 Cratosguses, various, 41 Cricket grounds, draining, 42 Crickets, mole, destruction of, 521 Crinum brachynema, 314, 376 Crocus Byzantinus, 26, Crewei, 478; Imperati, 62, 242, 256 ; minimus, 214 Crocuses, varieties of, 136, 194, 290; early, 124; destruction of by birds, 296 Crops, rotation of, 90 Croton appendiculatuin, 376 ; Disraeli, 314,376, tortile, 376 Crotons, new, 475 Crystal Palace Show, 474 Cucumber and Melon culture, 49 ; and winter plant house, 275 ; Rollisson's Telegaph, 292, 335, 356 ; monstrosity, 215 Cucumbers, bitterness in, 268, 292 ; early, 32 ; select, 476 Cullum, Lady, death of, 168 Cuprcssus Lawsoniana, 183 ; Lceana, 262; macrocarpa, 4'.tl Currant bushes, aphides on, 490 Currant Cherry, 433 Currant, proline, of Palluan, 433 Currants, budding, 87 ; cuttings of, 177 Cutler testimonial, the, 26 Cutting-pot maggots, 143 Cuttings, making, 60; new mode of striking, 257 ; without joints, 276 Cyathea insignis, lo-l Cycad, Lamii Roezlii, 396 * 'yclamen AtkinBii, hardiness of, 26 Cyclamens, at Hcathcrbank, 136 ; cross- ing, 276 ; for table decoration, 272 ; large Persian, 168 ; new mode of growing, 98 Cycas revoluta indoors, 379 Cypella gracilis, 41 ( jypreBS, ancient, 514 Cypripedium japonicnm, 70, 398; selli- gerum, 456; spectabilo, 62') Cytisus Ardunii, 3!J« Dacrydium Franklinii, 137; fine speci- men of in Wiltshire, 183 Daddy-long-legs, injury done by, 470 Daffodils (poetry), 341 Daffodils, all the, 3, 51. 280; double, 313 ; in Kensington Gardens, 338 ; Peruvian, 416 Dahlias, and slugs, 464 ; German, 398 ; summer treatment of, 515 Daisy-destroying grubs, 314 Daisy (Quilled), white Globe, 356 Dalmatian and other insect powders, 25 Damping fruit houses, 340 Damsons, varieties of, 416 Daphne, Cneorum, 461; Gwenka, 352; indica planted out, 41 Darlingtonia californica, 124, 376 Darwin a horticulturist., 170 Dasylirion longifolium glaucum, 456 Deer, Yew not poisonous to, 370 Delphiniums, annual, 459 Dendrobium densiflorum, 385 ; fimbria- tum, 336 ; heterocarpum, 233 ; Wardi- anum var., 456 Dendrobiums, Indian, 520 Deodar Avenue, 471 Deodars at Dropmore, 124 Deutzia crenata flore pleno, 314 Deutzias from seed, 228 Dew, formation of, 243 Dianthus Highclere, 482 Dictyogramma japonica variegata, 456, 479 Digging, drain tools for, 177 Digitalis, 483 Dinner-table decoration, 225 Dioncea muscipula, 26, 507 Dioscorea retusa, 456 Dipladenias, 35 ; culture of, 521 Dirca palustris, 370 Dodecatheons, 219, 273 Dolivot's system of fruit training, 451 Dracasna Candida, 314, 376; elegantis- sima, 376; hybrida, 356, 376; indi- visa, hardiness of, 102 ; ditto in Corn- wall, 621; insignis, 314, 376; Smithii, 478 ; in Devonshire, 292 Dracaenas, 174 ; for table decoration, 277 Drain gratings, 155, 181, 220 Draining gravel walks, 146 Drains, root-choked, 2, 466; tools for digging, 177 Drosera not carnivorous, 192 ; spathu- lata, 314 Earth heat under turf, 313 Easter Duddingston, rock-gardenat, 457 Echeveria f ulgens, 153 ; metallica, propagating, 220 ; Peacockii, 458 ; secunda glauca, wintering, 102 Echinocactus Simpsoni, 378 Edelweiss, the, near London, 464 Edging plants, 373 ; Primula cortu* soides as, 256; Selaginella as, 336 Edgings, garden, 69 ; kitchen garden, 102 Elasagnus japonica variegata, 272 Ellwanger & Barry's nursery, 233 Elms, burrs on, 491 Elysc-e, garden of the, 486 Embankments and bridges, 204 Embothrium coccineum at Belgrave, 338 Emigrants, Nebraska, 63 Enclosure Commission report, 272 Endive, culture of, 155 ; in London market gardens, 101 ; select, 357 ; running to seed, 533 Engine-room, greenhouse, 501 Epiphyllum truncatum, 41 Epping Forest enclosure, 282 Eriogonum, cornposiUim, 81 ; race* mosum, 81 ErythrEra Muhlenbergii, 280 Erythronium, americanum, 356, 357 ; dens canis, 191, 319, 356, 357; Nuttal- ianum, 357; giganteum, 357, 376; grandiflorum, 367 Eucalypti, from seed, 434; heights of, 81; in Algeria, 81, 458; large, 183; various, 247 ; cornutum, 26 ; globulus in California, 352 ; in the Riviera, 202 ; not hardy, 336 ; hardiest, 471 Eucharises, 191 Eucomis punctata, 256 Euonymuses, various, 119 Euphorbia, amygdaloidcs, 493 ; Jacqui- niaiflora, 35 Eupatorium ageratoides, 272 Eurya japonica variegata, 115 Euryangiuin .lumbul, 2 Evergreens, Ivy on, 322 ; moving, 322, 326, 478; for small gardeuB, 24; pruning, 326 Ewing's composition for mildew, 220, 247 Farming, co-operative, 47 Fences, 474 ; rat-proof wire, 22 Fernery at Langside, 151 Ferns, Maiden-hair, in Isle of Man, 464 ; Royal, in Hyde Park, 433; Common Brake, 498 ; exotic, for house decora- tion, 265 ; from spores, 382 ; germina- tion of, 60 ; hardy, 324 ; manure for, 498; Mr. Heath's'new book on, 2, 430; North American, 203; of Brisbane, 123 ; synopsis of, 511 Fertilisation, 197 Ficus Parcellii, 503 Figs, multiplying, 225 ; a place of, 446 Filberts, culture of, 150 Fir, a large Scotch, 168, 190 ; Douglas, at Dropmore, 124 ; sowing seeds of ditto, 212; Golden Spruce, 311 Firs, double, 436 Fittonia argyroneura for edgings of shelves, 22 Flamingo plant, curious sport of, 396 Flax, New Zealand, 320 ; in Ireland, 205 Floral wreath for the hair, 275 Flora of Eastbourne, 378 Floriculture, rotation in, 404 Flower-beds, moveable, 237 ; mulching, 462 Flower fertilisation, 197 Flower gardens, planting, 403 ; Princess Teck's, 238 Flowering, precocious, 435 Flower-mission depots, 274 Flower packing, 484 Flower shows, 496; at Aston, 26; old, 369 Flower-walk at Kensington, 433 Flowers, bouquet, 90 ; Californian, 396 ; cut, in floating cork, 336 ; economising cut, 124 ; electro-plated, 267 ; forcing, 97 ; for the sick, 366, 454 ; fragrance of, 421 ; on railway embankments, 463; Queen Anne's, 181; small vases for, 365 ; spring, 102, 279, 298 ; sweet- scented, 72; vase, 96; wild, trans- planting, 396; cut, preservation of, 499 Food of various countries, 83 ; Prof. Newman on fruit and vegetables, 181 Forcing flowers, 97 Forest, Rome's, garland, 183 Fowls, and insects, 275; damage done by, 529 Foxgloves, 483 ; in Kensington Gardens, 520 Frame, improved, 532 Francisceas, the best, 174 Freesia Leichtliniana, 316, 376 French Beans (see Beans) Fritillaria uniflora, 373 Fritillarias, 191 Frost at York, 2 ; transplantation a remedy against, 215 Frosty roads, effect of salt on, 17 Fruit and vegetables in Covent Garden, 69 Fruit blossoms, retarding, 294 Fruit-buds and birds, 111 Fruit culture, national, 211 Fruit drying, Jones' method of, 212 Fruits, select, 45 ; for table decoration, 262 ; Queensland, 342 ; gathering, 411; Nova Scotian, 478; plea for increased use of, 83 ; preserved, 213 ; Prof. Newman on, 184; changed by foreign pollen, 24 ; packing, 412; storing, 241, 411 ; thinning, 324 ; tropical, 342; variation in, 240; and vegetables, Algerian, 274 ; prospects respecting, 192, 295, 324, 356; new way of testing, 242; thinning, 390, 481; drying Australian, 500 Fruit houses, damping, 340 Fruit rooms in February, 1G3 Fruit trees, culture of, 409, 411; pro- tection of, 177, 213,217,231); training, 293 ; French mode of ditto, 451 ; cottagerB, 329; cure for Moss and Lichen on, 100; for a south-west wall, 42, 74; guano for, 411; lime- washed, v. birds, 312; pruning and training, 111 ; pruning standard, 196 ; transplanting old, 23 ; upon south- west walls, 45 ; close pruning wall, 458 Fuchsias, procumbens, 173 ; Riccartoni, origin of, 150, 173 ; Rose of Castile, 175; serratifolia, 361; standard, 422 ; culture of, 339 ; select, 339 Fulham Palace, old trees at, 92 Fungi, lecture on, 104; Phillips, fas- ciculi of, 26 ; show of at Aberdeen, 375 Funkias, treatment of, 213 G. (iaillanlia amlilyodon, 152 Galactitis tomentosa, 81 GalanthusElwesii, 878 Game cover. Redwood as, 370 Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Institu- tion, 62 Gardeners, United Order of, 453 Gardeners' wages in 1372, 195 Gardenias, a grove of, 216 Gardening, effective spring, 462 ; ditto at Belvoir, 450 ; two sides of, 433 Garden labels, 376, 397 ; zinc, 391 Garden songsters, 366 Garden, the lover's, 452 Garden tubs, cork covered, 175 Gardens, farm, value of, 491 ; house- top, 282 ; irrigation of, 439 ; market, digging in, 50; market, Parisian, 54, 80 ; ornamental, maintenance of, 437 ; Regent's Park Botanic, 51 ; Spanish balcony, 149; use of tan in, 391; window, 41 Garrya elliptica, 322; propagation of, 406 Gentians, 378 ; culture of, 460 Geological aspects of rock-work, 125 Geonoma gracilis, 314, 456 Geranium echinatum a bouquet plant, 226 Geranium, Willsii roseum for vases, 395 ; sanguineum, 500 Geraniums, bedding, to pot, 276; ditto, wintering, 238 ; for forcing, 252 ; for winter decoration, 102 ; new way of treating, 200 ; raising seedlings, 82 ; scented-leaved, 163 Geum, double scarlet, 450, 498 Gherkins in market gardens, 135 Gibson, death of Mr., 60 Ginger, 58 Gladiolus Colvillii, 173 ; precox, 90 Gladiolus, culture of, 27 Glass, toughened, 316, 332, 497 ; tile- shaped, 507 Glass screens, frosted, 136 Glazing, tile, 607 Gleichenias, treatment of, 198 Gloneria jasminoides, 376 Gloriosa superba hardy, 498 ; treatment of, 36 Gloxinia Ami Thibaut, 452 Gnaphalium leontopodium, 461 Goldfussia isophylla, 60 Goodyera pnbescens, 375 Gooseberry caterpillar, 323; remedy for, 453 Gooseberry grub and toads, 445 ; and chaffinches, 508 Gooseberry, twin-bearing, 55 Gooseberries, budding, 87 ; culture of, 322 ; cuttings of, 177 ; varieties of, 323 Gordonia lasianthus, 144 Gourds, grafted, 26, 85 ; ornamental, 75 Grafting orchards, 29; Apples and Pears, 273; Cabbages, 190; double, 398 ; effects of on variegation, 258 ; Gourds, 26, 85; to test new varieties, 87 ; Vines, 433 Grapes, Black Alicante, 278 ; catalogue of, 398; Duke of Buccleuch, 412; Gros Colman, 196 ; culture of, in the open air, 169, 221 ; dew on leaves of, 433 ; Madresfield Court, 458 ; remarks on, 86 ; Waltham Cross, 196 ; forcing early, 515 ; hybridisation of the Monukka and Black Hamburgh, 19 ; in bottles of water, 295, 398; in un- heated structures, 240, 340 ; outdoor, in Scotland, 212 ; rust on, 150, 170, 196; shanking of, 106, 150; scorch- ing, 130 ; wine without, -100 ; without packing, 22, 30, 74 ; ripe and unripe, on same Vine, 508 Grass margins, unmown, 403 Grasses, ornamental, for pots, 252 Greenfly, remedy for, 312, 369 Greenhouse lamp-stove, 289 Greenhouse, engine-room, 501 Greya Sutherlandi, 378, 478 Grounds, ornamental, maintenance of, 437 Grubs, Pear, destruction of, 526 Guano for fruit trees, 444 Gum copal, 202 Gum, Kauri, 254 Gum trees from seed, 431 Oustaviagracillima, 192 H. Ilabrothamnus elegans, 35 Hair, sprays for the, 275 Halo's ** Eden," 416 Halesia totraptera, 145 Hamamelis virginica, 115 Hammocks, garden, 525 Hampton Court Gardens, 418 Hanbury, Mr. D., death of, 292 Hairbells, mountain, 273 Haricot Chocolat, 478 ihiis, Panama, 465 Hay, loose, as a protector, 292, 295 Hawthorns, 41 ; double, scentless, 614 THE GARDEN INDEX. Til Head-dresses, foliage for, 129 Heating, appliances for, 58 ; boilers for, 95 ; gas for, 112 ; incrustation of boilers for, 493, 496 ; lamp store for, 289 ; limekiln, 21 Heat of earth under turf, 313 Heckfield, 416 Hedges, plant, White Pine as, 202 Hedges, clipping, 46 Hedychiuin Gardnerianum, ornamental fruit of, 234 " Heliotrope " (poetry), 498 Heliotropes, winter, 190 Hellebores, new hybrid, 463 Hemlock Spruce, hardiness of, 623 Hemp, 215 Hepatica angulosa, large flowered, 102 ; Barlowii, 136 ; single white, 195 ; from seed, 385; in bouquets, 149; under glass, 82 Herbaceous border, arrangement of, 93, 165 Herb beds, 156 Herb garden, a small, 83 Herbs, sowing and planting, 345, 354 Hertfordshire, flora of, 234 Hibiscus, 26 ; moacheutos, 127 Hind, Mr. Henry, death of, 252 Hoes, Dutch, moveable blades for, 416 Hollies, transplanting, 1 ; when to prune, 183 Hollyhocks, sowing, 256; the best, 62 ; staking, 515 Honeysuckle, Japanese, on Birches, 220 Horse Chestnut, 266 Horseradish, culture of, 46 ; poisonous to cattle, 478 Horticultural Society, Royal, 2, 102, 314, 339,355, 415; future of the, 211,231, 251, 438 ; history of, 214; anniversary of, 145 Hortus Europajus, 393 Hotbed, a small portable, 314; im- proved, 102 Hothouses, ventilation of, 88; for forcing, 506 House-top gardening, 282 Hoya Paxtoni, fruiting of, 340 Humea elegans as a fine foliaged plant, 320 ; purple variety of, 482 Huts, rustic, 222 Hyacinth beds, 373 Hyacinths, 194; Etna, 314; Grape, 333, 416 ; tying spikes of, 237 ; twining, 396 ; new, 234 ; various degrees of fragrance in, 268 ; wild, 450 Hybridisation of Grapes, 19 Hydrangea, hardy twining, 352 Hypha3ne, Thebaica, 452 Kitchen gardens, formation of, 469 Kleinia repens, 372 Kniphofia Macowani, 478 Kumquat, the, 170, 192 l°e as a fruit preserver, 204 ; on the Clyde, thickness of, 59 ■*desia polycarpa, 498 Imantophyllum miniatum, 276 India-rubber plants, 128 Ink for zinc labels, 327 Insecticide, spirits of camphor as an, 456 Insect metamorphosis, 30 Insect powders, Dalmatian, 25 Insects, and flower fertilisation, Sir Jno. Lubbock on, 26 ; in frosty weather, destroying, 32 ; Poplar, 288 ; spotted trumpet-leaf, 117 ; depredations of, in America, 510,521 Ipomea Horsfallia?, 35 Iris longifolia, 170; reticulata, 214, 434 ; indoors, 168 ; Keempferi, 504 Irises, 194 ; early, 69 Iron, cement for, 182 Irrigation, garden, 439 Islands, ornamental, 178 Ismene amancaies, 376, 416 ; calathina, 194 Ivy a carpeting plant, 345 ; on trees, 262, 311, 322, 370 ; treatment of, 312 ; various kinds of, 350; variegated, for rootwork, 200 Ixora Fraseri, 383 Ixora-root insects, 336 J. Jamesia americana, 26, 514 Japonaria ca;spitosa, 235 Jasminum, Duohesso d'Orleans, 35 ; grandiflorum, 228; nudiflorum on Birches, 220 Junipers, 25 K. Kales, dwarf curled, 268 ; hardy, 393, 415; select, 357; variegated, 314 Kalnnas, 491 ; Alpine, 378 Kew, assistant director for, 458 ■ plant nomenclature at, 486; under Sir Joseph Banks, 208, 232 Labelling trees at Southampton, 316 Label trial, a, 435 Labels, good and bad, 253 ; in the parks, 396 ; garden, 292, 397, 478 ; stamped, lead or zinc, 315 ; zinc, 168, 376, 391 Lactarius deliciosus, 19 ) Laaken, conservatory at, 26 ' Lffilia anceps Dawsonii, 2 : majalis, 436 Lakes and ponds, forming, 178 ; effects of frost upon, 206 Land in Ireland, value of, 197 Lapageria alba, 34; rosea, 34, 236; layering, 385 ; from seed, 68, 258 Larches, British and American, 227 Larkspurs, annual, 459 ; perennial, 503 Lathyrus grandiftorus, 624 Laurel, variegated, 311, 336, 346 ■ various, hardiness of, 272 Laurus latifolia, 252 Laurustinus, forcing, 216 Laverna vinolentella, 416 Lawns, Cannas on, 436 ; draining, 42 • spring treatment of, 310 Layering, 327 Leaves, absorption of water by, 26 • electro-plated, 267 ; in Paris, sale of fallen, 59 Leeks, select, 357 Lemon-tree diseases, 296 Leonce de Vaubernier, 386 Lettuce, Alexandra White Cos, 190 • All the Year Round, 102 Lettuces, blanching, 211 ; culture of, 164; early, 311 ; select, 357; sowing 467 ; winter, without glass, 232 Leucojum vernum, 195 LUac grafted on Privet, 437 Lilies, all the, 296, 297; American, 420; Elwes's monograph on, 59 ; in peat borders, 218 ; king of the, 52 ; newly- imported, naming, 416; index to names of, 522 Lilium, auratum, c ulture of, 237 ; late- flowering, 198 ; Krameri, 422 • gi<»an- teum, 173, 191, 292. 478; ambnc Rhododendrons, 218 ; well-grown specimen of, 256; Hansoni, 475; rubro-vittatum, 62 ; Thunburgianum Wilsoni, 121 ; Washingtonianum, 343, 421,436; varieties of, 373, 377 ; Hum- boldtii, 500 Lily forcing in America, 506 Lily in winter, a (poem), 48 Lime-burning in heaps, 269 Limekiln heating, 21 Lime-leaf gall, 512 Lime trees, remarkable, 310 Linaria alpina, 320 Lindera Benzoin, 370 Linum tigrinum, 364 Lippia Eegyptica, 632 Liriodendrontulipferum, 141 Lithospermum, frutieosum, standards of, 376 ; Gastoni, 436 Lobelia subnuda, 81 Locust ravages, limits of, 510 Lomatia propinqua, leaves of, as head- dresses, 129 London squares and parks, 417 Lonicera semperflorens, 491 Lover's garden, 452 Luculia gratissima, 35, 44 Lucombe Nurseries, Exeter, 63 Lupines, tree, as sea-side plants, 220 Masdevallia, attenuata, 82; chinaera. 192 ; estrada, 478 ; Lindeni, 314; macu- lata, 452 ; culture of, 381 Mats, Russian, 118 Maxillaria Turneri, 340 Mazeberry, the, 170 Mazes, 513 Mealy Bug, 471 Measuring Instrument, Morris', 456 Meconopsis Wallichii, 498,601, 521 Melons, African, 105 ; and Cucumbers, 49 ; culture of, 105 ; damping, 311 ; select, 476 ; small houses best for, 130 ■ Paris Market, 600 Mentzelia, multiflora, 81 ; nuda, 81 ; oruata, 81 Menziesias, 377 Mesembryauthemum cordifolium varic- gatum, 414 Mexico, plant riches of, 26 Mice and Peas, 416; and Christmas Roses, 270 ; destruction of, 132 Micropus leucopteris, 521 Mignonette, Parson's White, 373 ; when to sow, 217 Mildew, cure for, 220, 217 ; on Vines, 129 Miltonea cuneata, 192 Mimuluses, Clapham's, 403, 404 ; in the open ground, 450 ; seedling, 436 ; double crops of, 504 Miselto on Miselto, 124; propagating, 146 ; spring-sown best, 416 Moles, catching, 272; not vegetarians, 60; Belgian trap for, 42; and their worm stores, 262 ; food of, 438 Monk's-hood and Horse-radish roots, 171 ; poisoning by, 211 Moricandia arvensis, 405 Mortar-making, 347 Moss on lawns, remedy for, 310 Moth, Elephant Hawk, 123 Mulberry, a very dwarf, 102 Mulching, tan lor, 40 ; value of, 4 j2 Muscats, hardiness of, 278 Mushroom culture, 75 Mustard and Cress, culture of, 155 Myosotis dissititlora, seedling plants of, 320 Ormes Head, embellishment of, 60 Orobanche on Primula, 82 Osmunda obtusiloba, 456 Otiorhynchus sulcatns, 168, 189 Owen's, Prof., Garden, 132 Oxalis Ortgiesii, 236 Oxford College Gardens, 526 Pachyphytum bracteosa, 372 Packing flowers, 481 ; Grapes, 22, 30, 74; Japanese mode of, 504 Palms, culture of, 67 ; Date, at Baghdad, 137 ; hardy, 500 ; fruiting of ditto, 377 Palms and Passion-flowers, 137 Talm seed, a useful, 193 Pancratium speciosum, 195 Pansies, bedding, 482, 534 ; certificated, 518; for spring beds, 320; propaga- tion of, 534 Pansy Modesty, 62 Paper protectors, 225 Parasites, greenhouse, 171 Parchment, vegetable, 46 Paris flower show, 498 Paris green, use of, 350 Park at Brussels, 431 ; Cannon Hill, 14S. 390 N. Narcissi, all the, 3, 51 ; double, 313 ; early, 118 ; in Cornwall, 101, 170 ; Burbidge on, 371 ; Grand Monarque, 438 ; juncifolius, 62 ; minor, 272 ; pachybulbos, 168; monophyllus, 192 Nasturtium, Flame, culture of, 395 Nectarines, under glass, 444 ; east wall, 365 ; enemies of, 278 ; pruning, 242 ; ripening wood of, 29; the best, 82; well baked, 26 Nepenthes alba marginata, 436 ; at Drumlanrig, 146, 258, 295 ; large pitchers of, 233 ; new hybrid, 62 Nephrodium truncatum, 456 "New Quarterly," botanical article in, 126 Niptus hololeucus, 399 Nurseries, acreage under, 122 Nurses, 474 Nutmeg, 57 Nuts, Guayaquil, 356 o. Parks and squares, London, 417 ; ex- penditure on, 435 Parsley, and Onions intermixed, 217 - Fern-leaved, 470, 498 ; culture of, 50 ; late sown, 533 ; sowing, 528 ; Sutton's matchless, 533 Parterre, old French, 403 Passiflora Decaisneana, 35 ; quadraugu- laris, 35 PasBifloras, 351 Peaches, American, 438 ; Condor, 458 ; early Louise, 212; enemies of, 278; orchard, 45 ; under glass, 411 ; Texan, 530 ' M. Macadamia ternifolia, 311, 356 Macrozamia plumosa, 480 Madder plants, 438 Maggots in cutting pots, 143 Magnolias, acuminata, 144 ; Fraseri 144; glauca, 144; grandiflora, 141 J macrophylla, 144; new, 352; select, 91; umbrella, 141; barren, 614 Mammillaria senilis, 452 Mammoth tree, the, 183 ; new groves Manchester exhibition, 435 Mandevilla suaveolens, 34 Mangosteen, the, 170, 413 Manley Hall, sale of, 296 Manure, distribution of liquid 442 • Jeannel's, 496 ; Standen's, 276, 416 ■ asa top-dressing, 203 ; uses of liquid, 388 ■ Amies' chemical, 212 Maples, new variegated, 352 ; Japanese 352 Maranta tubispatha, 336 Market gardens, at Paris, 207 ; acreage under, 122 Martinezia erosa, 314 Oak, Eas.wood, 406 Oak Phylloxera, 165 Oak galls, classification of, 322 Observatory, Meteorological, at He- gent's Park, 438 Ochras, dried, 274 Odontoglossum madrense, 378 ; maxil- lare, 26 ; Roezlii, 376 ; vexillarium album, 456 ; Warsewiczii, 148 (Enotheras in Utah, 200 Olives, 42. 321 ; culture of, 93 ; in Por- tugal, 352; out of doors, 52 Oncidiura, crispum, 452 ; curtum, 475; platyodon, 192 ; Weltonii, 232, 252 Onion seed for an acre, 22 Onions, select, 357 ; and Parsley inter- mixed, 217 ; sowing, 177 ; thinning, 453 Opuntias, edible, 465 Orange gardening, 225 Orange within an Orange, 60 Oranges, Texan, 108 ; various kinds of, 308 Orchards, acreage under, 122 ; Ameri- can, acreage of, 192 ; grafted, 29 ; irrigation of, 443 Orchid baskets, 143 Orchids, culture of, past and present, 141 ; at Gunnersbury, 385 ; at Kew, 481 ; at Stevens's, 335 ; cool, 276 ; fragrant, 340; new, 274; terrestrial, 192 ; winter flowering, 22 ; without Orchid-houses, 68, 124 ; cool, winter treatment of, 507 ; Mr. Bockett's, 520 • Mr. Day's, 520 Orchis foliosa, 520 520 Peach Palm, 422 ; setting, 196, 272 • shoots killed by oil, 396 Peach trees, bloom shedding in, 321; Chinese, 490 ; east wall, 365 ; outdoor, 170 ; pruning, 242; ripening wood of, 29; root pruning, 18; yellow barked, 30 ; select, 53, -432 ; summer treatment of, 467 Pear, Abbott,489 ; Adams, 489 ; Andrews, 489 ; Antoina Delfosse, 242 ; Beurre d'Esperen the best late, 242 ; Beurre de Jonghe, 148 ; Beurre Gambier, 242 ; Bloodgood, 488 ; Boston, 488 ; Clapp's Favourite,48S; Columbia, 490; Dana's Hovey, 490; Excelsior, 489; Fulton, 439 ; Hanners, 489 ; Howell, 242, 489 ; Hull, 489 ; Josephine de Malines, 124; Kingsessing, 489 ; Knight's Monarch, 170; Lawrence, 489; Lucy Grieve, 274 ; Manning's Elizabeth, 438 ; Merriam, 489 ; Moore s, 4S9 ; Moya- mensing, 488 ; Passe Crassane, 385 • Pratt, 489 ; Seckel, 439; Sheldon, 489 ; Souvenir du Congres, 128, 508 ; Ster- ling, 489 ; Swan's Orange, 489 ; syno- nyms, 73 ; the Trout, 60 ; Vicar of Winkfield, 87 ; Washington, 439 Pears, American, 483 ; best kinds of, 107 ; cooking, 240, 400 ; cordon, 236 ; double grafting, 398 ; of foreign and English growth, 1U6; good late, 278; graftiag, 273 ; in succession, 225 ; in various climates, 371; judging, 107; new, 385; Perry, 410; select, 16, 45; successional, 312 ; various, on one tree, 241 Pear tree, the, 409 Pear trees, distances apart, 131; fur- nishing walls with, 19 ; re-grafting old, 225 ; destruction of grubs on, 526 Pea, edible-rooted, 416 ; sugar, 415 ; Sweet, 254 Peas, American, 296 ; best late varieties of, 392 ; Culverwell's Marrow, 82 ; in pots, 498 ; early, 633 ; forcing ditto, 470; everlasting, 524; keeping mice off, 416, 456; mulching, 498 ; remedy against mildew in, 498; select, 357, 476 ; sowing, 157 ; ditto, late, 428 ; treatment of early, 260 ; trench culture of, 289; William the First, 456 Peccan nuts, 274 Pelargonium Beauty of Oxton, 456 ; Constance, 128; Countess of Dudley. 456, Eclipse, 456; Edith, 456; Flirt, 456; Miss Porter, 456; new type of, 22; Prince of Wales, 475; Queen Victoria, 466 ; Revenge, 456 ; Sappho, 456 ; trial of, at Chiswick, 296 Pelargoniums, inarching, 416 ; culture and propagation of, 479; culture of specimens of, 412; zonal, for winter- flowering, 485 Pentstemon antirrhinoides, 274 ; cya- nanthus Brandegei, 81 ; Palmeri, 81 Peonies, list of, 110 ; tree, 418 Persimmon, Japanese, 222 Vlll THE GARDEN INDEX. Petraea volubilis, 378 Petunia intermedia, 452 Phajus gTandifolius a cool conservatory plant, 318 Phalamopsis intermedia, 192: Veitchii, Phegopteris Diana;, 456 Philadelphia exhibition, 386, 478 Phlox verna, 416 rhormium tenax in Ireland,205 ; various kinds of, 320 Phyllocactus hiformis, £74 Phylloxera, history of the, 157 ; remedy for, 128, 234, 412, 498 Picea, amabilis, 287; grandis, 286 ; magnifica, 287 ; Parsoniana, 287 Pine-apples, culture of, 337; Queen, 105; shading, 324. 356, 333, 432; St. Michael, 30 ; West Indian, 316 ; potting, 86 Pine insects. 327 Pines, dwarf, 25; large Scotch, 119; red-rot in, 322 rinetum, Gordon's. 233 Pineuicula grandiflora, 393, 415, 483; Vallisnerijefolia, 436 Pink, Catchfly, Bolander's, 396 ; forcing, Derby-day, 456 Pipes, hot-water, 22 Pitcher plants at Drumlanrig, 233, 258, 295 Pittospomm crass if olium, 452 P^nus Mugho. 25 ; Pinea, 350 Plane, new variegated, 228 Plant-growth, silica not essential to, 96 riant house, Cucumbers in a, 275 Planting, in groups, 472 ; out u. pot culture, 519 Plant perfumes, effect of, on health, 398 Plant protectors, construction of, 108 Plant, Soap, 102 Plant stand, 379 Plant sticks, 478 Plants, absorption of water by leaves of, 26; Alpine, at Easter Dudding- ston, 457 ; ditto, localities for, 236 ; April- flowering, 419; arrangement of border, 136, 165 ; bedding, best varieties of, 172: ditto in Pare Mon- ceau, 89; carnivorous, 117,390; cer- tificated, 40; changing natural forms of, 150 ; comparison of flowering seasons of. 296 ; Darwin's insecti- vorous and climbing, 62; dates of flowerine of, 296, 346 ; dinner-table, 225; early treatment of, 401 ; early- blooming, 104, 296, 462; ditto herb- aceous, 376 ; effects of the winter on, 443; for carpet-beds, 374; for edging, 69; for town baskets, 316; for trellises, 290 ; for vases, 461 ; hard - wooded, top-dressing, 257; hardy autumn flowering, 190; ditto, blue flowered, 233; ditto, climbing, 236 ; ditto in Gloucestershire, 395 ; ditto, under glass, 315, 176. 198; sow- ing seeds of herbaceous, 222; indoor climbing, 33 ; in Evelyn's time, 397 ; in flower at York, 437 ; in schools, 228 ; Japanese mode of packing, 504 ; new Japanese, 352 ; May-blooming, 502 ; movement of sap in, 31; new, 475; ditto, Austra- lasian, 600 ; not carnivorous. 192 ; ornamental, 205; propagation of bedding, 71 ; rock-garden. 377, 477 ; ditto, white-flowered, 220; room, diseases in, 21 ; ditto, insects injurious to, 261; sea-side, tree Lupines as, 220 ; npring moving, 389; sub-tropical, indoors, 149; ditto, in winter, 116 ■ hwcct-Bcented, 72; variegated, 373; watering, with hot water, 607 ; wax- yielding, 96 ; woodland, in Vermont, 72 riatycerium, alcicorno, 456: Wallichii, 458 ' Pleasure grounds, maintenance of, 437 Plumbago capensis, 34 ; rosea in winter. 163 Phim, Chickasaw, 520; Jamaica, 170 • Wild Goose, 486 Plum Tree, the, 410 Plums, ornamental, 202 ; select, 16 Poinscttia pnlcherima, 43 ; in New York, 465 Poisoning, Yew, 259, 311 Poison, mineral, use of, 350 Pollen ? Is fruit changed by fnrei^n "4 Polyanthuses, gold-laced, 317; oriKin of, 481 ' b Polystichum lepidocaulon, 475 I'^'Mf-riii,:!!/-:.; v, it hent ]■>!],:-■, ,'iH(l Pomcllocs in Covent Garden, 148 Popocatapctl, 26 Poplars, various, 288 Poppies, giant scarlet, 48-1 Ponies for the poor, 580 Potato beetle, Colorado, 101, 470 Potato boiling, Bnckmaster on, 211 Potato, Brownell's Beauty, 391 ; Eureka 391 ; Carpenter's Seedling, 391 J Carter's American Bread Fruit, 396 ; Compton's Surprise, 190, 391 ; Early Rose in France, 211 ; Excelsior, 391 ; Extra Early Vermont, 391 ; Ice Cream, 391 ; Red-skinned Flour-ball, 102 ; Snowflake, 39,470; the Sextus, 291 ; American, 391, 491, 507 ; Early forcing of, 111; ditto, how to obtain, 188; ditto raising of Lancashire, 108 ; from cuttings, 244; new at Christmas, 338; new race of, 243 ; picking blossoms off, 567 ; Seedling, how to raise, 245 ; superphosphate for, 122 ; two crops a year of, 244 ; select, 357 ; storing, 245 ; Potato beetle, Colorado, 520 Potato crop at Newark, 268 Potato culture, 14; at Killerton, 507; for exhibition, 37, 60, 146 Potato disease, new, 37, 500, 532 j remedy for, 470 Potato planter , 245; Whitford's ditto, 53 Potato Planting, best time for, 217, 333, 376 ; in autumn, 207 Potato sets, 134; economical mode of cutting, 241 Potato show. International, 356 Potato trials, at Chiswick, 76; at Reading, 210 Potatoes. Channel Island, 533 Pot trellises, 143 Pots, clean v. dirty, 413 ; glazed, the best, 480 ; and worms, 198 ; planting out better than culture in, 519 Preserved fruits and vegetables, 213 Primroses, Chinese, 152, 216, 217; early pink, 336 ; Scotch Bird's-eye, 396 ; sowing, 124, 364, 414; variegated, 319, 345; double, propagating, 198; double yellow from seed, 200 ; for table decoration, 277 ; for the greenhouse, 272 ; mountain, 337; on railway em- bankments, 450 Primula, altaica, 90, 111; cortusoides anicena, varieties of, 3S3 ; cortusoides as an edging plant, 256; farinosa, 483 ; japonica, hardiness of, 373, 464 ; in North Wales, 484; pulcherrima, 503; scotica, 395 ; sinensis Stewartii, 198 ; various, 345, 377, 378 Prince's Feather, 504 Privet, Lilac grafted on. 437 Protections, fruit tree, 213, 217, 230, 294, 295 ; how to make screens for, 108; glass, 38 ; hay as, 292 ; straw mats for, 242, 490 ; various materials as, 246 Pruning, close, exhausting effects of, 267 Prunus americana, 144 ; caroliana, 144 ; cerasus,144; maritima, 144; serotina, 144 Psidium, 168; Cattleyanum, 252 Puschkinia scillioides, 195 Pyracanthacrenata, 489; japonica, 500 Pyrethrum, Golden-feathered, winter- ing, 320 Pyrus americana, 145; coronaria, 145, 278 ; (malus) floribuncla, 406 ; pruni- flora, 274 Q. Queensland, botanical productions of, 234 Quercus glabra, fruiting of, 292, 314 R. Babbits and tree-barking, 195 Radiation, terrestrial, 181 Radish, new Japanese, 436 Badishes, culture of, 155 ; early, 134 Railway embankments, flowers for, 463 ; Strawberries on, 4-16 Rainfall and sunspots, 60 Ranunculus, culture, 166 ; montanus,37S Raspberry beds, 134 Bats and cantharikopho, 40 Bavine vegetation, 324 Bed spider, 471 ; cure for, 327; on Vines, 130 Redwood, as a game covert, 370; increas- ing, 370; pruning, 23; supply of, 352 Retinospora, new weeping,352; plumosa indoors, 336 Rctinosporas, 25 Beutlingen school of gardening, 269 Rheum nobile. 81, 236 ;*( palmatum tanguticum, 236 Bhodanthe, double, 406 Hbndodcndron, argentcum,62 ; Countess of Haddington, 356; Falconeri, 318, 352; bimalayana. 27<> Bhododcndrons. 491 ; at Kccle Hall, 398 ; cutting back, 437 ; lime poison to, 262 ; grafting, 626 Rfitil nrb, cooking, 146; culture of , G9 • forced, 232, 2G8; grown in the dark, 245 ; in London market gardens, 101 ; medicinal, 148, 236; ditto, English- grown, 182 Bhus cotinus, 272 Bbynchosperma robutta, 376 Rice in India, modes of cooking, 393 Ricinus Gibsonii, 226 Rivina humilis, 364 Robins, History of the, 47 Roads, carriage, 525 Rock-garden at Easter Duddingston, 457; Messrs. Backhouse's, 477 ; plants for, 377, 397 Rock plants, 119 Rock-work, geological aspects of, 125 Rodriguizia crispa, 60 Roffea grass for tying, 67 Rollisson, Mr., death of, 534 Rondeletias, second blooming of, 383 Room plants, diseases in, 21 Root grub, 469 Root pruning in fruit trees superseded, 433; Peach trees, 18 Roots in drains, 2, 466 Root-work, variegated wires for, 200 Rose, Auguste Hit* and Coupe d'Hebe\ 319, 354; beds, top dressing, 292; Captain Christy, 356; caterpillar, cure for, 454 ; Cathrine Mermet, 274; culture in the U.S.A., 395 ; Gloire de Dijon, 378; Hippolyte Jamin, 234 ; insects, destruction of, 416, 428, 485 ; Isabella Sprunt, 236 ; Madame Falcot, 256 ; Madame Trifle, 274; Star of Waltham, 416; St. George, 25 ; vigorous Marshal Niel, 464 ; rugosa, 520 Roses, Banksiau, 482; best positions for, 138 ; budding of, in May, 417 ; climbing, 484, 515; ever-blooming, 175 ; forcing, 104, 207 ; fragrant, 462 ; good wall, 42 ; Mr. Ladds's, 214 ; new, 292, 417 ; new Tea, 405 ; pot, 402, 474 ; propagating, 146; pruning, 188, 229, 235 ; and Rose lovers, 626 ; treatment of, after flowering, 524 ; in pots, 529 ; show of, at Alexandra Park, 634 Roses pruning and training, 270 Roses, pruning, Baltet on, 372 Roses, thinning, 504 Rotation in floriculture, 404 Royal Botanic Society, 455 Royal Botanic Society's shows, 291, 517 Royal Horticultural Society, 2, 102, 314, 339, 355, 415; future of, 211, 231, 251, 438; history of, 214; anni- versary of, 145 Royal Horticultural Society's shows, 475, 518 Ruscus androgynus, 521 Rust on Grapes, 170 S. Sadleria cyathoides, 456 Salad growing under cloches, 154 Salisburia adiantifolia, 436 Salix rosmarinifolia, 4U6 Salt and snow, 39 Salt as manure, 32 Salting walks, 75 Salvia gesneraflora, 340; splendens, 340 Sap, in trees, flow of, 22 ; movement of, 31 Sapucaya nuts, 247 Saracenia, hardiness of, 124; insects, 117 Savoy, King Coffee, 20 Savoys, select, 357 Sawdust the best plunging material, 242 Saxifraga Burseriana, 148, 316; longi- folia, 173; oppositifolia pallida, 316; peltata, 438; pyramidalis, 458; pyre- naica rubra, 148; virginiensis, 316 Saxifrages under glass, 198, 220 Scale insects, 261, 471 ; cure for, 327 ; on Ash trees, 311 School of Gardening, Reutlingen, 259 Scillabifolia, 232 Scillas, late -flowering, | 418 ; seedling, 195, 280, 356 Scion, influence of stock on the, 268 Scraper, improved, 336 Seakale, culture of, 251, 528; forcing, 134; two crops for forced, 211 ; wild on the Hampshire coast, 316,334; season, lateness of, 292 Sedum amplexicaule, 280, 320; suitable for bedding, 314 Seed apparently without flowers, 604 Seedlings, per-ccntage of good, 482 Seeds and birds, 134; and Beed crops, 61; aquatic, vitality of, 104; sowing small, 61, 68 Selaginella denticulata, 236; variegata, 336" Senecio macroglossus, 44, 104 Sericographis Gbiesbreightii, 363 Sewage, uses of, 530 Shrubs and trees at Killruddery, 124 Shrubs, early flowering, 200 ; flowering, 250; ornamental leaved, 250; wall, spring-flowering, 320 Sibthorpia curoprea albo-marginata, 70 Silcne alpestris, 504; Bolanderi, 396; pendula, double, 482 Silica not essential to plant growth, 96 Skimmia fragrans, 183 ; japonica, 183 Slugs, destroying, 232, 281 ; protection against, 453 ; v. Dahlias, 464 Snowberries, 31 Snowdrop, new, 378 Snowflake, 195 ; flowering time of, 190 Snowflakes, the, 156 Soap, carbolic, Brooks's liquid, 522 Soap plant, 102 Soho square, 378 Soil boiling, a cure of worms, 238 Solanum, conical-berried, 153, 190 Soldanella montana, 316 Sonchus elegantissimus, 376 Sonerila Henderson!, 456 Sopota Achras, 170 Spanish Chestnut, fruiting of, in Scot- land, 292 Spaiaxis pulcherrima, hai'diness of, 345 Sparmannia africana, 237 Spices, 66 Spiders, 202 Spinach, beet, 311; cooking, 470; how to grow, 292 Spindle trees, 119 SpiraBa Aruncus for forcing, 254 ; new, 352 ; palmata, 254, 274, 522 Sports, plant, 530 Spring flowers, dividing, 468 Spring, gradual approach of, 48 ; wait- ing for, 36 Spruce, Menzies*. 56 Spruces, dwarf, 25 Squills, various, 195 Stands for flowers, 32 Staphylea escallonioidcs, 128 Stephanotis floribuncla, 35 Stock, influence of, on scion, 258, 514 Stock, Mauve Beauty, 483; night- scented, 366 Stocks, Brompton, 482 Stockwell Green, 22 Stokesia cyanea, 230 Stone, cement for, 182 Stone Pine of Italy, 350 Stove climbers, 35 Strawberry, Dumbarton Castle, 241 ; forcing, use of saucers in, 365 ; Keen's Seedling, 490 ; President, 490 ; Prin- cess Alice Maud, 490; Viscomtesse Hericart de Thury, 490; Waltham Seedling, 241 ; runners, 528 Strawberries, at Christmas, 412, 436 ; improvement of flavour in, 324 ; London market, 107 ; Mulching for, 281 ; on railway embankments, 446 ; second crop of, 353 ; sods and saucers for, 458 ; watering, 412. Straw-mats the best protectors, 242 Strelitzia ovata, 41 Streptocarpus, varieties of, 152 Stuartia Pentagynia, 370; virginica, 144 Succulents in bloom, 466 Sugar-beet fields, California, 26 Sugar-cane gardening, 225 Sumbul plant, the, 2 Summer-houses, 602 Sunflowers and fever, 237 Surface-stirring, uses of, 371 Sweet Teas, hardiness of, 292 Table decoration, 416; Cyclamens for, 272 j fruit for, 277; Primroses for, 277 Table ornaments, floral, 176 Table plants, 475 Tacsonia sanguinea, 54, 60 ; Van Volx- emii, 34 ; ditto, culture of, 153 Tanks, water, 439 Tan for mulching, 40 ; Mushroom-cul- ture in, 110. spent, uses of, 464; use of, in gardens, 394 Tapioca, 146 Taxodium sempervirens, 23 Taxus canadensis, 25 Tea, beetles in, 399 ; culture in Italy, 367; in Sicily, 336; Tea-tree, white, 396 Tecoma capensis, 34 Texas, gardening in, 192 Thames Embankment, opening of, 398 Thermometer, hydro-registering, 252 Thermopsis montana, 524 Thcropogon pallidus, 192 Thistle, the Herring-bone, 52 Thorns, leafless, 478 ; budding, 532 Thrinax nobilis, 376 Thorn, Glastonbury, 370 Thrips, 471; cure for, 327; on Vines, 130 Thuja occidentalis, 25 Thujopsis dolabrata in Devonshire, 350 Thynes', Messrs., winter garden, 378 Tillandsia Lindcni, 214; musaica, 97, 376 Timber, new, country for, 223; cutting during a shooting lease, 335 ; growing. measurement of, 266 Toads t'. Gooseberry grub, 445 THE GARDEN INDEX. IX Tobacco, home-grown, 60, 96, 163, 189 ; Latakia, 366; meal, 520 Tomato, Conqueror, 392 ; Golden Trophy, 335 ; Hathaway's Excel- sior, 416 ; fields of, near London, 500 Tomatoes, canned, 148 ; early, 453 ; raising, 260 ; select, 357 ; treatment of, 453 ; under glass, 232, 467 ; varie- ties of, 212 Top dressings, 233 j hard-wooded plants, 257 Torreya myristica, 227 Tradescants, tomb of, 511 Training, fan, 293 ; horizontal, 293 Transplantation a remedy against frost, 215; of evergreen trees, 314, 322, 326, 478 ; of Hollies, 1 ; of old fruit trees, 23 ; of wild flowers, 404 Tree, dwarfing Chinese, 316; nurseries of the world, 202 ; seeds, lowing, 327 ; wounds, protection for, 133 Trees, and shrubs, 65 ; at Killruddery, 124; anti-rabbit composition for, 195 ; Ash, scale on, 311 ; deciduous, in winter, 147 ; destroyed at Paris, 438 ; dimensions of, 406 ; early flowering, 200 ; evergreen, Ivy on, 311 ; ever- green, moving, 314; flow of sap in, 22 ; for churchyards, 60 ; for small Gardens, evergreen, 24; fruit for a south-west wall, 74; fruit, pruning and training, 111 ; in winter, aspect of, 191; Ivy-clad, 322; labelling at Southampton, 316 ; large Australian, 183; law respecting lopping, 26; Lime, remarkable, 310 ; marks on, 55; New Zealand, 406; at North- umberland House, 500 ; old, at Fnl- ham Palace, 92 ; Olive, 60 ; orna- mental, 434; spring flowering in town, 398; street, 514; wall, close pruning, 458 ; waterside, 131 Trellises, pot, 143 Trichomanes radicans, 124 Trillium atro-purpureum, 416 Triteleia laxa, 396 ; Murrayana, 314 ; uniflora and its varieties, 255 ; uni- flora for early decoration, 406 Tropa?olum, Minnie Warren, 111 ; seed- lings of, 438 ; polyphyllum, 500 ; speciosum, 436, 464 ; culture of, 395 ; supports for, 436 ; tricolorum, treat- ment of, 414 Truffaut's propagating house, 257 Tuberoses in New York, 464 Tubs, cork covered, 175 Tulipa Gregi, 234 Tulip judging, 438 ; Celestial Star, 396 Tulips, various, 195 Turf plant for hot countries, 532 Turnips, select, 357 ; summer culture of, 514 ; early, 533 Turnip, White Swede, 416 Typhonium Brownii, 376 u. Utricularia montana, 458 "Vanda, the blue, 43; culture of ditto, 82 ; Parishii, 456 Van Hnutte's " Flore des Serres," 452 Veltbeimia viridiflora, 195 Variegation, curious freaks of, 258 Varieties, wearing-out of , 103, 129, 173 Varnish for white wood, 124 Vases, garden, 96, 460; plants for, 461 ; small flower, 365 Vegetable, mould, a, 326; parchment, 46 ; seeds, select, 77 Vegetables, American, 296 ; best kinds of, 357; earthing up, utility of, 311 ; effect of winter on, 314; frozen, treat- of, 32 ; how to produce early, 38; list of useful, -16 ; plea for increased use of, 83 ; preserved, 213 ; Prof, Newman on, 184; the best, 20 Vegetarianism, Newman on. 184 Vegetation, aspects of, 131 ; in May", 501 ; lake, 181 ; open air, at Edin- burgh, 346 ; ravine, 324; richness of Mexican, 26 Ventilation of hot-houses, 88 ; Tobin's system of, 348 Venus's fly-trap, 26 Verandah, plants for a, 236 Viburnum Keteleeri, 2*7 ; macrocopha- lum. 314; Sand an kw a, 478 Vine bleeding, effects of, 312 ; cure for, 131 Vine border, soil for, 87, 139 ; top-dress- ing for, 278 Vine cropping, hints on, 45 Vine culture in New South Wales, 378 ; in the open air, 169 Vine destroyer, a, 189 Vine eyes in turf, 108, 131, 196 Vine insects, 241, 278,327 Vineland, settlement of, 285 Vine leaves, dew-drops on, 416; warts on, 130 Vine pest, history of the, 157 Vine, pruning and training of the, 44 Vine-rod excrescences, 620 Vineries, early treatment of, 315 ; plants for back of,' 508 ; airing, 17 Vines, air-roots of, 520 ; at Drumlanrig, 73 ; bought v. home-grown, 45, 106, 131; damping, 18, 340; diseases of, 129; early treatment of, 369; for early forcing, 86; for small -houses, 402; from eyes, 80; grafting, 433, 458; inarching, 454 ; ditto and budding, 86 ; irrigating, 74 ; killed by oil, 416 ; mildew^on, 87, 129 ; Muscat, hardiness of, 278; open air, 221; planting, growing, 252 ; pot, bought v. home- grown, 74; pruning old, 458; rais- ing eyes of, in turf, 85 ; red spider and thrips on, 130; second years' treatment. 28; shanking of, 130 ; stocks for, 129 ; sulphuring, 196 ; supernumerary. IS ; temperature of border for, 17; thinning, 29; training, 18 ; treatment after planting, 17 ; twisting, 102; watering, 13 Vineyard, large Californian, 296 Viola cucullata, 219 ; pedata, 450, 4S4 Violets, Dog's Tooth, 194. 319, 357; Lady Humo Campbell, 292 ; Neapoli- tan, 197 ; Parma, 373 ; Victoria Regina, 336; American, 4S2 ; ditto forcing of, 516 ; in Paris. 277 ; Nea- politan, treatment of, 498; various kinds of, 353 Virginian Creepers, off walls, 124 Vox naturae (poetry), 269 W. Wahlenbergia tuberosa, 192 Walks, draining gravel, 91, 116 ; grat- ings to drain \ of, 155, 181; salting, 75 ; weedy, 111 Walls, flowers for, 4S1 ; furnishing with Pear trees, 19 : south-west, furnishing with fruit, 45 Wall shrubs, spring-flowering, 320 Walnut burrs, 202 Walnuts, grafting, 168 Wardie Lodge, notes on, 52 Wasp catching, rewards for, 331 Water barrelB, useful, 292 Water Convolvulus, 236 Water-cresses, culture of, 380 ; uses of, 381 ; without water, 232, 252 Water lifters, 439 Water plants, a list of, 616 Water, composition of, 492 ; hard, 492 ; household, 493 ; impurities in, 491 ; purification of, 495 ; scarcity of, 350, 368, 516 : soft, 492 Watson's portable boilers, 17 Wax-yielding plants, 95 Wearing out theory, the, 103 Weather in May, 1875, 501 ; lato severe. 32 Weeds, keeping down on lawns, 376, 529 Weigelas, descriptive list of , 511 Wcllingtonia from home-saved seed, 60 ; at Bitton, 526 Wild flowers, transplanting, 404 Windflowers, all the, 423 ; at Kew, 481 Window gardens, 41 ; Eucomius punc- tata for, 258 ; plants for, 507 Wine without Grapes, 400 Winter, effects of the late, 413; in south Ireland, mildness of, 1 10 Wistarias, Alphonse Karr's, 435 Wistaria and bees, 452 ; frutescens, 111 Witloof, the, 268, 390 Woodland, the, 402 Wood-lice, 262 Wolverhampton public park, 231 Wood, preservation of, 92 Woods, acreage under, 122 Worms, 202 Xeronhyllnm asphodeloides, 127 Xiphon Histrio, 59 Yew poisoning, 259, 292, 311, 322, 370, 377 Yorkshire flower gala, 533 Yuccas, filamentosa variegata, 52 ; longi- folia, 405 ; raising seed, 82 ; triculeana, 27 Zinc labels, 168 ; ink for, 297 Vlll THE GARDEN INDEX. Petra?a volubilis, 378 Petunia intermedia, 452 Phajus grandifolius a cool conservatory plant, 318 Phalamopsis intermedia, 192: Veitchii, 234 Phegopteris Diana;, 456 Philadelphia exhibition, 386, 47S Phlox verna, 416 Phormiumtenaxinlreland,205 j various kinds of, 320 Phyllocactus biformis, 274 Fhylloxera, history of the, 157 ; remedy for, 128, 234, 412, 498 Picea, amabUis, 287; grandis, 286; magnifica, 287 ; Parsoniana, 287 Pine-apples, culture of, 337; Queen, 105; shading, 324. 356, 383, 432; St. Michael, 30 ; West Indian, 316 ; potting, 86 Pine insects, 327 Pines, dwarf, 25 ; large Scotch, 119 ; red-rot in, 322 Pinetum, Gordon's, 233 Pincnicula grandiflora, 398, 415, 483 ; "Vail isneriae folia, 436 Pink, Catchfly, Bolander's, 396 ; forcing, Derby-day, 456 Pipes, hot-water, 22 Pitcher plants at Drumlanrig, 233, 258, 295 Pittosporum crassifolium, 452 P:nus Mugho, 25 ; Pinea, 350 Plane, new variegated, 228 Plant-growth, silica not essential to, 96 Plant house, Cucumbers in a, 275 Planting, in groups, 472 ; out v. pot culture, 519 Plant perfumes, effect of, on health, 393 Plant protectors, construction of, 108 Plant, Soap, 102 Plant sland, 379 Plant sticks, 478 Plants, absorption of water by leaves of, 26; Alpine, at Easter Dudding- ston, 457 ; ditto, localities for, 236 ; April - flowering, 419 ; arrangement of border, 136, 165 ; bedding, best varieties of, 172: ditto in Pare Mon- ceau, 89 ; carnivorous, 117, 390; cer- tificated, 40 ; changing natural forms of, 150 ; comparison of flowering seasons of, 296 ; Darwin's insecti- vorous and climbing, 62 ■ dates of flowering of, 296, 346 ; dinner-table, 225; early treatment of, 401 ; early- blooming, 104, 296, 462 ; ditto herb- aceous, 376; effects of the winter on, 443; for carpet-beds, 374; for edging, 69; for town baskets, 316; for trellises, 290 ; for vases, 461 ; hard - wooded, top-dressing, 257; hardy autumn flowering, 190; ditto, blue flowered, 238 ; ditto, climbing, 236 ; ditto in Gloucestershire, 395 ; ditto, under glass, 115, 175. 198; sow- ing seeds of herbaceous, 222 ; indoor climbing, 33 ; in Evelyn's time, 397; in flower at York, 437; in schools, 228 ; Japanese mode of packing, 604 ; new Japanese, 352 ; May-blooming, 502 ; movement of sap in, 31 ; new, 475 ; ditto, Austra- lasian, 600 ; not carnivorous. 192 ; ornamental, 205; propagation of bedding, 71 ; rock-garden. 377, 477 ; ditto, white-flowered, 220; room, diseases in, 21 ; ditto, insects injurious to, 261; sea-side, tree Lupines as, 220 ; spring moving, 389 ; sub-tropical, indoors, 149; ditto, in winter, 116; sweet-scented, 72; variegated, 373; watering, with hot water, 607 ; wax- yicldiDg, 95 ; woodland, in "Vermont, 72 Platyccrium, alcicorne, 456; Wallichii. 456 Pleasure grounds, maintenance of, 437 Plumbago capensis, 34 ; rosea in winter. 153 rium, Chickasaw, 520; Jamaica, 170- Wild Goose, 486 Plum Tree, the, 410 Plums, ornamental, 202 ; select, 18 I'oinscttia pulcherima. 43 ; in New York, 465 Poisoning, Yew, 269, 311 Poison, mineral, use of , 350 Pollen ? In fruit changed by foreign, 24 Polyanthuses, gold-laccd, 317; origin Polystichum lcpidocaulon, 475 Pomegranates without pips, 396 Pomelloes in Covent Garden, 148 Popocatapctl, 26 Poplars, various, 288 Poppies, giant scarlet, 48-1 Posies for the poor, 630 Potato beetle, Colorado, 101, 470 Potato boiling, Buckmaster on, 211 Potato, Bro-wnell's Beauty, 391 ; Eureka, 391 ; Carpenter's Seedling, 391 ; Carter's American Bread Fruit, 396 ; Compton's Surprise, 190, 391 ; Early Rose in France, 211 ; Excelsior, 391 ; Extra Early Vermont, 391 ; Ice Cream, 391; Red-skinned Flour-ball, 102; Snowflake, 39, 470 ; the Sextus, 291 ; American, 391, 491, 507 ; Early forcing of, 111; ditto, how to obtain, 188; ditto raising of Lancashire, 108 ; from cuttings, 244 ; new at Christmas, 338 ; new race of, 243 ; picking blossoms off, 567; Seedling, bow to raise, 245; superphosphate for, 122 ; two crops a year of, 244 ; select, 357 ; storing, 215 ; Potato beetle, Colorado, 520 Potato crop at Newark, 268 Potato culture, 14; at Killerton, 507; for exhibition, 37, 50, 146 Potato disease, new, 37, 500, 532 ; remedy for, 470 Potato planter, 245 ; Whitford's ditto, 58 Potato Planting, best time for, 217, 333, 376 ; in autumn, 207 Potato sets, 134; economical mode of cutting, 241 Potato show. International, 356 Potato trials, at Chiswick, 76 ; at Reading, 210 Potatoes, Channel Island, 533 Pot trellises, 143 Pots, clean v. dirty, 413 ; glazed, the best, 480 ; and worms, 198 ; planting out better than culture in, 519 Preserved fruits and vegetables, 213 Primroses, Chinese, 152, 216, 217; early pink, 336 ; Scotch Bird's-eyo, 396 ; sowing, 124,364, 414; variegated, 319, 345 ; double, propagating, 198 ; double yellow from seed, 200 ; for table decoration, 277 ; for the greenhouse, 272 ; mountain, 337; on railway eni- baikments, 450 Primula, altaica, 90, 111 ; cortusoides amcena, varieties of, 383 ; cortusoides as an edging plant, 256 ;■ farinosa, 483 ; japonica, hardiness of, 373, 464; in North Wales, 484; pulcherrima, 503; scotica, 395; sinensis Stewartii, 198 ; various, 345, 377, 378 Prince's Feather, 504 Privet, Lilac grafted on, 437 Protections, fruit tree, 213, 217, 230, 294, 295 ; how to make screens for, 108 ; glass, 38 ; hay as, 292 ; straw mats for, 242, 490 ; various materials as, 246 Pruning, close, exhausting effects of, 267 Prunus americana, 144 ; caroliana, 144 ; cerasus, 144; marithna, 144; serotina, 144 Psidium,168 ; Cattleyanura, 252 Puschkinia scillioides, 195 Pyracanthacrenata, 499; japonica, 500 Pyrethrum, Golden-feathered, winter- ing, 320 Pyrus americana, 145 ; coronaria, 145, 278 ; (malus) floribunda, 406 : pruni- flora, 274 Q. Queensland, botanical productions of, 234 Quercus glabra, fruiting of, 202, 314 R. Babbits and tree-barking, 195 Radiation, terrestrial, 181 Radish, new Japanese, 436 Radishes, culture of, 155 ; early, 134 Railway embankments, flowers for, 463 ; Strawberries on, 4i6 Rainfall and sunspots, 60 Ranunculus, culture, 166 ; montanus,378 Raspberry beds, 134 Rats and cantharikopho, 40 Ravine vegetation, 324 Red spider, 471 ; cure for, 327 ; on Vines, 130 Redwood.as a game covert, 370; increas- ing, 370; pruning, 23; supply of, 352 Retinospora, new wecping)352; plumosa indoors, 33(1 Rctinosporas, 25 Reutlingcn school of gardening, 269 Rheum nobile, 81, 236 ;;| palmatum tnnguticum, 236 Rbodantbe, double, 406 Rhododendron, argenteum,62 ; CounteFS of Haddington, 366; Falconcri, 318, 362 ; himalayana, 27(1 Rhododendrons, 491 ; at Kccle Hall, 39R ; cutting back, 137 ; lime poison to, 262 ; grafting, 626 Rhubarb, cooking, 146; culture of , Cfi ; forced, 232, 268; grown in the dark, 245 ; in London market gardens, 101 ; medicinal, 148, 236; ditto, English- grown, 182 Rhus cotinus, 272 Rbynchosperma robufcla, 376 Rice in India, modes of cooking, 393 Ricinus Gibsonii, 226 Rivina humilis, 364 Robins, History of the, 47 Roads, carriage, 525 Rock-garden at Easter Duddingston, 457 ; Messrs. Backhouse's, 477; plants for, 377, 397 Rock plants, 419 Rock-work, geological aspects of, 125 Rodriguizia crispa, 60 Roff ea grass for tying, 67 Rollisson, Mr., death of, 534 Rondeletias, second blooming of, 383 Room plants, diseases in, 21 Root grub, 469 Root pruning in fruit trees superseded, 433 ; Peach trees, 18 Roots in drains, 2, 468 Root-work, variegated wire3 for, 200 Rose, Auguste Mie* and Coupe d'Hebe-, 319, 354; beds, top dressing, 292; Captain Christy, 356 ; caterpillar, cure for, 454 ; Cathrine Mermet, 274; culture in th9 U.S.A., 395; Gloire de Dijon, 378 ; Hippolyte Jamin, 234 ; insects, destruction of, 416, 428, 485 ; Isabella Sprunt, 236 ; Madame Falcot, 256 ; Madame Trifle, 274; Star of Waltham, 416 ; St. George, 25 ; vigorous Mardcbal Niel, 464 ; rugosa, 520 Roses, Banksian, 482; best positions for, 138 ; budding of, in May, 417 ; climbing, 484, 515 ; ever-blooming, 175 ; forcing, 104, 207 ; fragrant, 462 ; good wall, 42 ; Mr. Ladds's, 214 ; new, 292, 417 ; new Tea, 405 ; pot, 402, 474 ; propagating, 146; pruning, 188,229, 235 ; and Rose lovers, 626 ; treatment of, after flowering, 524 ; in pots, 529; show of, at Alexandra Park, 534 Roses pruning and training, 270 Roses, pruning, Baltet on, 372 Roses, thinning, 504 Rotation in floriculture, -104 Royal Botanic Society, 455 Royal Botanic Society's shows, 291, 617 Royal Horticultural Society, 2, 102, 314, 339, 355, 415; future of, 211, 231, 251, 438; history of, 214; anni- versary of, 145 Royal Horticultural Society's shows, 475, 518 Ruscus androgynus, 521 Rust on Grapes, 170 Sadleria cyathoides, 456 Salad growing under cloches, 154 Sabsburia adiantifolia, 436 Salix rosmarinifolia, 4U6 Salt and snow, 39 Salt as manure, 32 Salting walks, 75 Salvia gesneraflora, 340; splendens, 340 Sap, in trees, flow of, 22 ; movement of, 31 Sapucaya nuts, 247 Saracenia, hardiness of, 124 ; insects, 117 Savoy, King Coffee, 20 Savoys, select, 357 Sawdust the best plunging material, 242 Saxifraga Burseriana, 148, 316; longi- folia, 173; oppositifolia pallida, 316; peltata, 438 ; pyramidabs, 458 ; pyre- naica rubra, 148; virginiensis, 316 Saxifrages under glass, 198, 220 Scale insects, 261,471 ; euro for, 327; on Ash trees, 311 School of Gardening, Reutlingen, 259 Scilla bifolia, 232 Scillas, late -flowering, | 418 ; seedling, 195, 280, 356 Scion, influence of stock on the, 268 Scraper, improved, 336 Seakale, culture of, 251, 628; forcing, 134; two crops for forced, 211 ; wild on the Hampshire coast, 316, 334; season, lateness of, 292 Sedum amplexicaule, 280, 320; suitable for bedding, 314 Seed apparently without flowers, 504 Seedlings, per-ccntage of good, 482 Seeds and birds, 134; and seed crops, 61; aquatic, vitality of, 104; sowing small, 61, 68 Selaginella denticulata, 236; variegata, 336 Scnecio macroglossus, 44, 104 Sericographis Gbicsbrcightii, 363 Sewage, uses of, 530 Shrubs and trees at Killruddery, 124 Shrubs, early floworing, 200 ; flowering, 250; ornamental leaved, 250; wall, spring-flowering, 320 Sibthorpia europam albo-margiuata, 70 Silene alpestria, 604; Bolanderi, 396; pendula, double, 482 Silica not essential to plant growth, 96 Skimmia fragrans, 183; japonica, 183 Slugs, destroying, 232, 281 ; protection against, 453 ; v. Dahlias, 464 Snowberries, 31 Snowdrop, new, 378 Snowflake, 195 ; flowering time of, 190 Snowflakes, the, 156 Soap, carbolic, Brooks's Hquid, 522 Soap plant, 102 Soho square, 378 Soil boiling, a cure of worms, 238 Solanum, conical-berried, 153, 190 Soldanella montana, 316 Sonchus elegantissimus, 376 Sonerila Hendersoni, 456 Sopota Achras, 170 Spanish Chestnut, fruiting of, in Scot- land, 292 Sparaxis pulcherrima, hardiness of, 345 Sparmannia africana, 237 Spices, 66 Spiders, 202 Spinach, beet, 311; cooking, 470; how to grow, 292 Spindle trees, 119 Spiraea Aruncus for forcing, 254 ; new, 352 ; palmata, 254, 274, 522 Sports, plant, 530 Spring flowers, dividing, 468 Spring, gradual approach of, 48 ; wait- ing for, 36 Spruce, Menzies', 56 Spruces, dwarf, 25 Squills, various, 195 Stands for flowers, 32 Staphylea escallonioidcs, 128 Stephanotis floribunda, 35 Stock, influence of, on scion, 258, 514 Stock, Mauve Beauty, 433; night- scented, 366 Stocks, Brompton, 482 Stockwell Green, 22 Stokesia cyanea, 230 Stone, cement for, 182 Stone Pine of Italy, 350 Stove climbers, 35 Strawberry, Dumbarton Castle, 241 ; forcing, use of saucers in, 365 ; Keen's Seedling, 490 ; President, 490 ; Prin- cess Alice Maud, 490; Viscomtesse Hericart de Thury, 490; Waltham Seedling, 241 ; runners, 523 Strawberries, at Christmas, 412, 436 ; improvement of flavour in, 324 ; London market, 107 ; Mulching for, 281 ; on railway embankments, 446 ; second crop of, 353 ; sods and saucers for, 458 ; watering, 412. Straw- mats the best protectors, 242 Strelitzia ovata, 44 Streptocarpus, varieties of, 152 StuartiaPentagynia, 370; virgiuica, 144 Succulents in bloom, 465 Sugar-beet fields, California, 26 Sugar-cane gardening, 225 Sumbul plant, the, 2 Summer-houses, 502 Sunflowers and fever, 237 Surface-stirring, uses of, 371 Sweet Teas, hardiness of, 292 Table decoration, 416; Cyclamens for, 272 > fruit for, 277; Primroses for, 277 Tablo ornaments, floral, 176 Table plants, 476 Tacsonia sanguinea, 64, 60 ; Van Volx- emii, 34 ; ditto, culturo of, 153 Tanks, water, 439 Tan for mulching, 40 ; Mushroom-cul- ture in, 110. spent, uses of, 464; use of, in gardens, 394 Tapioca, 146 Taxodium sempervirens, 23 Taxus canadensis, 25 Tea, beetles in, 399 ; culture in Italy, 367; in Sicily, 336; Tea-tree, white, 396 Tecoma capensis, 34 Texas, gardening in, 192 Thames Embankment, opening of, 398 Thermometer, hydro-registering, 252 Thermopsis montana, 524 Theropogon pallidus, 192 Thistle, the Herring-bone, 62 Thorns, leafless, 478 ; budding, 532 Tbrinax nobilis, 376 Thorn, Glastonbury, 370 Thrips, 471; cure for, 327; on Vines, 130 Thuja occidentalis, 25 Thujopsis dolabrata in Devonshire, 366 Thynes', Messrs., winter garden, 378 Tillandsia Lindeui, 214; musaica, 97, 376 Timber, new, country for, 22S; cutting during a shooting lease, 335 ; growing. measurement of, 266 Toads v. Gooseberry grub, 415 THE GARDEN INDEX. IX Tobacco, home-grown, 60, 96, 168, 189 ; Latakia, 366 ; meal, 620 Tomato, Conqueror, 392 ; Golden Trophy, 335 ; Hathaway's Excel- sior, 416 ; fields of, near London, 500 Tomatoes, canned, 148 ; early, 458 ; raising, 260 ; select, 357 ; treatment of, 453 ; under glass, 232, 467 ; varie- ties of, 212 Top dressings, 233; hard-wooded plants, 257 Torreya myristica, 227 Tradescants, tomb of, 611 Training, fan, 293 ; horizontal, 293 Transplantation a remedy against frost, 215 ; of evergreen trees, 314, 322, 326, 478 ; of Hollies, 1 ; of old fruit trees, 23 j of wild flowers, 404 Tree, dwarfing Chinese, 316 ; nurseries of the world, 202 ; seeds, lowing, 327 ; wounds, protection for, 138 Trees, and shrubs, 55 ; at Killruddery, 124; anti-rabbit composition for, 195 ; Ash, scale on, 311 ; deciduous, in winter, 147 ; destroyed at Paris, 438 ; dimensions of, 406 ; early flowering, 200 ; evergreen, Ivy on, 311 ; ever- green, moving, 314; flow of sap in, 22 ; for churchyards, 60 ; for small gardens, evergreen, 21; fruit for a south-west wall, 74 ; fruit, pruning and training, 111 ; in winter, aspect of, 191 ; Ivy-clad, 322 ; labelling at Southampton, 316 ; large Australian, 183 ; law respecting lopping, 26 ; Lime, remarkable, 310 ; marks on, 65; Now Zealand, 406; at North- umberland House, 500 ; old, at Ful- ham Palace, 92 ; Olive, 60 ; orna- mental, 434; spring flowering in town, 396; street, 514; wall, close pruning, 458 ; waterside, 181 Trellises, pot, 143 Trichomanes radicans, 124 Trillium atro-purpureum, 416 Triteleia laxa, 396 ; Murrayana, 314 ; uniflora and its varieties. 255 ; uni- flora for early decoration, 405 Tropseolum, Minnie Warren, 111 ; seed- lings of, 438; polyphyllum, 500; speciosum, 436, 464 ; culture of, 395 ; supports for, 436 ; tricolorum, treat- ment of, 414 Truffaut's propagating house, 257 Tuberoses in New York, 461 Tubs, cork covered, 175 Tulipa Gregi, 23 J Tulip judging, 438 ; Celestial Star, 396 Tulips, various, 195 Turf plant for hot countries, 532 Turnips, select, 357 ; summer culture of, 614 ; early, 533 Turnip, White Swede, 416 Typhonium Brownii, 376 TJtricularia montana, 458 V. Vanda, the blue, 43 ; culture of ditto, 82 ; Parishii, 456 Van Houtte's " Flore des Serres," 452 Veltheimia viridiflora, 195 Variegation, curious freaks of, 258 Varieties, wearing-out of, 103, 129, 173 Varnish for white wood, 124 Vases, garden, 96, 460; plants for, 461 ; small flower, 365 Vegetable, mould, a, 326; parchment, 46 ; seeds, select, 77 Vegetables, American, 296 ; best kinds of, 357; earthing up, utility of, 311 ; effect of winter on, 314 ; frozen, treat- of, 32 ; how to produce early, 38 ; list of useful, 46 ; plea for increased use of, 83 ; preserved, 213 ; Prof. Newman on, 181; the best, 20 Vegetarianism, Newman on, 184 Vegetation, aspects of, 131 ; in May", 601 ; lake, 181 ; open air, at Edin- burgh, 346; ravine, 321; richness of Mexican, 26 Ventilation of hot-houses, 88 ; Tobin's system of, 3-48 Venus's fly-trap, 26 Verandah, plants for a, 236 Viburnum Keteleeri, 287 ; macrocepha- lum, 314; Sandankwa, 478 Vine bleeding, effects of, 342 ; cure for, 131 Vine border, soil for, 87, 139 ; top-dress- ing for, 278 Vine cropping, hints on, 45 Vine culture in New South Wales, 378 ; in the open air, 169 Vine destroyer, a, 189 Vine eyes in turf, 108, 131, 196 Vine insects, 211, 278, 327 Vineland, settlement of, 285 Vine leaves, dew-drops on, 416 ; warts on, 130 Vine pest, history of the. 157 Vine, pruning and training of the, 41 Vine-rod excrescences, 620 Vineries, early treatment of, 315 ; plants for back of,' 508 ; airing, 1 7 Vines, air-roots of, 520 ; at Drumlanrig, 73 ; bought v. home-grown, 45, 106, 131 ; damping, 18, 340 ; diseases of, 129; early treatment of, 369; for early forcing, 86 ; for small 'houses, 402 ; from eyes, 80; grafting, 433, 458; inarching, 454; ditto and budding, 86; irrigating, 74; killed by oil, 416 ; mildew"on, 87, 129 ; Muscat, hardiness of, 278 ; open air, 221 ; planting, growing, 252 ; pot, bought v. home- grown, 74; pruning old, 458; rais- ing eyes of, in turf, 85 ; red spider and thrips on, 130; second years' treatment. 28; shanking of, 130; stocks for, 129 ; sulphuring, 196; supernumerary, 18 ; temperature of border for, 17; thinning, 29 ; training, 18; treatment after planting, 17; twisting, 102; watering, 18 Vineyard, large Californian, 296 Viola cucullata, 219 ; pedata, 450, 181 Violets, Dog's Tooth, 191. 319, 357; Lady Hume Camplioll, 292 ; Neapoli- tan, 197; Parma, 373; Victoria Regina, 336 ; American, 4S2 ; ditto forcing of, 516 ; in Paris. 277 ; Nea- politan, treatment of , 498 ; various kinds of, 353 Virginian Creepers, off walls, 121 Vox natural (poetry), 269 w. Wahlenbergia tuberosa. 192 Walks, draining gravel, 91, 116 ; grat- ings to drain i of, 155, 181 • salting, 75 ; weedy, 111 Walls, flowers for, 481 ; furnishing with Pear trees, 19 ; south-west, furnishing with fruit, 45 Wall shrubs, spring-flowering, 320 Walnut burrs, 202 Walnuts, grafting, 163 Wardie Lodge, notes on, 62 Wasp catching, rewards for, 331 Water barrels, useful, 292 Water Convolvulus, 236 Water-cresses, culture of, 380 ; uses of, 381 : without water, 232, 252 Water lifters, 439 Water plants, a list of, 516 Water, composition of, 492 ; hard, 492 ; household, 493 ; impurities in, 491; purification of, 495 ; scarcity of, 350, 368, 516 ; soft, 492 Watson's portable boilers, 17 Wax-yielding plants, 95 Wearing out theory, the, 103 Weather in May, 1875,601; late severe. 32 Weeds, keeping down on lawns, 376, 529 Weigelas, descriptive list of, 511 Wellingtonia from home-saved seed, 60 ; at Bitton, 626 Wild flowers, transplanting, 404 Windflowers, all the, 423 ; at Kew, 431 Window gardens, 41 ; Eucomius punc- tata for, 258 ; plants for, 507 Wine without Grapes, 490 Winter, effects of the late, 413; in south Ireland, mildness of, 140 Wistarias, Alphonse Karr's, 435 Wistaria and bees, 453 ; frutescens. Ml Witloof, the, 263, 390 Woodland, the, 402 Wood-lice, 262 Wolverhampton public park, 231 Wood, preservation of, 92 Woods, acreage under, 122 Worms, 202 X. Xoronhyllnm asphodeloides, 127 XiphonHistrio, 59 Yew poisoning, 259, 292, 311, 322, 370, 377 Yorkshire flower gala, 533 Yuccas, filamentosa variegata, 52 ; longi- folia, 405 ; raising seed, 82 ; triculeana, 27 2. Zinc labels, 163 ; ink for, 297 THE GARDEN INDEX. ILLUSTRATIONS. Acalypha marginata ... Adiantum gracillimum Alcinnii*, garden of Anthurium Scherzcrianum, spathed Anthuriura, two-spaLhed Apples, malformed .., Aquarium, a portable... Aralia Guilfnylei Armcria mauritanica ... Azalea, Ghent Auricula, double-yellow Tag ... 621 ... 339 ... 407 large- ... 317 ... 4S1 ... 2U ... 329 ... 6^5 . 419, 421 ... 491 ... 603 Bagatelle, Bois dc Boulogno ... 113 Balcony, Spanish 149 Bambusa viridi glauccscens ... 279 Barbo do Capucin 399 Begonia Rex 89 Birch, the 201 Birds'-nests, artificial (three en- gravings) 309 Birds, song 367 Blumenbachia Chuquitensis ... 173 Boiler, Watson's 17 Botanic Garden, Regent's Park, view in the 51 Bouquet, button-holo 193 Brussels Park 431 Caladium Bolleymei 141 Calepteryx Virgo 31 Carrots (eighteen engravings) ... 358 Charcoal kilns 78 Chartomoter 145 Cineraria, large-bloomed 413 Cissus Davidiana 199 Cloche 164 Cochliostema odoratissima 175 Cocos, a well-grown 67 Conifer, Ivy-clad 263 Conservatory, roof 233 Crata>gns lohata serotina 321 Cucumber, malformed 215 Cacnmis metalliferus 75 Daffodil, true double 343 Dolphininms, annual ... 459, 460, 563 Dictygrnmma japonica variegata ... 479 Dracamas, o« table decorations ... 279 Drain gratings 181, 220 Engine-room greenhoiiKO Krythrcca Muhlenbergii Kucalyptus globulus ... Fernery, Langside Floral wreath for the hair .. Flower beds, moveable Frame, improved garden 632 garden, Princess Tcck's ... 239 Frascr's Ixora 383 Fruit tree training 461 Fulham Palaco ... 03 Garden irrigation, diagrams illus- Tage Pago .. 601 Lomatia propinqua ... 129 .. 2S0 . 217 Macrozamia plumosa ... 483 Maze ... 613 .. 151 Mealy bug ... 471 . 275 Melon, African, Sir S. Baker's ... 115 . 237 Monkshood root ... 171 trativo of Garden of Alcinoiis ... ,, of theElyscc... ,, Bongsters Gooseberry, twin-bearing Gourd, ornamental ... Gourds, grafting Hammock, garden Ilcckfield, view in gardens at Hemp plants Horseradish root Horticultural building in tho Phila- delphia Exhibition of 1875 ... 387 439 ... 407 ... 487 307, 369 ... 65 ... 76 ... 86 ... 625 ... 117 ... 215 ... 171 indoor climbing plants 33 Insects, trumpet leaf 117 Irrigation, diagrams illustrative of 439 Ivy at Montpellier 267 Ivy-clad trees 263 Ixora Frasorii 383 Jonquil (three illustrations) 9 Label stamping machine 315 Labels, good and bad 263 Lamp-stove, small 289 Lapagoria In tho Lucombo Nursery 63 Larkspurs, annual ... 459, 400, A68 Lilies (forty-four illustrations) ... 297 Lilium giganteum 191 ,, Washingtoniannm 343 Lime-burning in heaps 269 Narcissi (twenty-four illustrations) 6 Narcissus calathinus 371 New Zealand Flax 206 Oak Phylloxera (twoongravings)... 165 Olive trees on tho shores of tho Mediterranean Orchard irrigation, plan of . Orchid basket Owen's (Prof.) garden Oxford College Garden, an 132 13 413 143 133 627 Parasites, greonhouso 471 Park at Brussels 431 Palm, a well-grown dwarf 66 Palms and Passion-flowers 137 Parterre at St. Gormain-en-Laye ... 463 ,, in tho time of Henry IV. 405 Phylloxera (sixteen engravings) 168 to 165 Pinus Pinea in the Villa Borghcse... 361 Plant stand Pollen grains entering pistils Totato-planter, Whitford's Potato sots, economical method of cutting Primrose, variegated Propagating houso, TrufTaut's Protectors, screen Ravino near Borronto 825 Rod spider 471 Bcutlingen school of gardening ... 259 RobinB (two illustrations) 47 Saccolabium ampullacoum 366 Saponaria cfespitosa 236 Sarraccnia insects H Scale 4" Page Scraper, an improved 336 Sffrccn protectors 108 Sibthorpia europroa albo-marginata 70 Skimmia fragrans 188 ,, japonica 183 Snowflakes, spring and summer ... 166 Solanum, conical-borried 153 Tanks for irrigation purposes ... 439 Thrips 471 Tilhi.ndHia musaica 97 Torrcya myristica --7 Training fruit trocs 461 Trees at Fulham 88 Triteleia uniflora 266 Truffaut's propagating-houso ... 257 Vanda, a well-grown bluo 13 Viburnum Ketoleeri 2-<7 Vino pest (sixteen engravings) 168 to 165 Vino, spur-trained I"' Vine-training, outdoor 221 Viola cucullata 219 Water-liftors and tanks 139 Wator, ornamental 179 Windllowers (twenty-eight cngrav- . 423 to'427 ... 41 ... 391 ... 223 ... 30 ings) Window-box, improvod Witloof, tho Woodman's hut Woodpecker, tho Yucca Trcculcana 27 COLOURED ILLUSTRATIONS. Amaryllis, Ilondorson's wintor floworing Crocus, Neapolitan Lawson Ciypross in (lower, tho Loucojum vornum Polargonium, CJuoon Victoria Sibthorpia ouropaia variogata 346 212 508 166 468 70 THE GARDEN. xi MR. NINIAN NIVEN. As tho last volumo of The Garden was profacod by tho portrait of the most: distinguished landscape gardener in England, ho tho prosont in accompanied by that of Mb. Niven, who has long boon known as the loading practitioner in tho samo art in Ireland. Mis. Niven was born in tho year 1799. Ho was tho son of a gardener who, in his generation, was well known by those bolonging to tho old school of Scotch horticulturists, of whom, though many camo south of tho Twoed in keeping with a weakness inherent in Scotchmen — somo still remained behind, and not a few of tho present race of gardeners will, as they look back through tho vista of years, still rotain ploasing recollections of their early days spent under Mb. Niven, at Keir House. His birth place was Kelvin Grove, in tho neighbourhood of Glasgow ; or, to bo moro particular, at what now forms the noble West Park of Glasgow : thoro ho spent his early years, and there he received his education. At tho ago of fourteen ho appears to have developed a taste for tho profession of his ancestors, and felt it incumbent upon him to follow in their footstops. At tho gardens of Bothwoll Castle, then, amongst the best in tho West of Scotland, and famous for an unusually valuable collection of plants — a fame, by the way, that, after a lapse of sixty years, yet attaches to the place — Mu. Nivkn was bound apprentice, at tho ago of fourteen, under Mu. THOMAS BCTLBB, the then gardener, and predecessor of tho present Mu. Turnhull, whoso naiuo will always be remembered as the greatest Heath grower of tho day. Hero no opportunity was lost in studying tho numerous botanical rarities with which ho was daily brought in contact ; here was laid tho foundation of his botanical knowledge ; and, possibly, hero his young mind became imbued with that lovo of the picturcsquo and beautiful in Nature for which ho has becomo so distinguished, and which few places wcro moro likoly to give riso to than I lie romantic banks of tho Clyde, from Uothwoll Castle to its furthest source. Having completed his apprentice- ship, ho returned to Glasgow, in order to study drawing and painting, in both of which arts he had made considerable self-taught progress, utilising in this manner his long winter evenings of Scotch bothie life. Further, his knowledge of plants and his lovo for tho scionco of botany, gained for him tho friendship of tho lato Mr. Stewart Murray, of tho Glasgow Botanic Garden, aud also of tho lato Sir W. Hooker, and, under tho able tuition of both of these gentlemen, ho made rapid progress, A recall to Uothwell Castle, to lake cliargo of tho flower garden, interfered with tho courso thon selected, and for which his studies were preparatory, namely, a botanical collector's life. Doubtless, with tho sad fate of his old friend and associate, poor Douglas, in his mind, ho has long sinco reconciled himself to Hie change that Mien took place in his destinies. In tho yoar 1822 ho went as gardoner to Belladrum House, in Inverness-shire, where lie had, as a neighbour, the lato Mr. Donald Beaton, who, in a rominisconco of his early Scottish life, published years ago in tho " Cottage Gardener," boro ample testimony to tho energy and ability displayed by (he young Glasgow gardoner who had como to the far north. Those woro days when a journey to tho North of Scotland was almost as protracted as a journey at the present liino is to America. Ho had scarcely been two years in his first situation aH gardener before he was requested, by Hie thon Karl of Glenelo — who, if wo mistake not, was then Chief Secretary for Ireland — to take charge of (he gardens at his ollicial residence in the Phceni.x Park, Dublin. These, with ample scope and means, ho remodelled. Introducing a new and methodic xii THE GARDEN. system in all departments, lie soon made them worthy of the brief but expressive criticism of the late Me. Loudon, when making a professional tour in Ireland, as recorded in his " Gardening Encyclopedia," that " it was the best managed garden in Ireland." Mk. Niven's residence here extends over some nine or ten years, during which period he carried off a vast number of prizes at the horticultural shows. About this time the Curatorship of the Royal Dublin Society's Gardens became vacant, and he was then asked to compete for this, the premier post of his profession in Ireland, and was successful in the competition. For five years he discharged the duties that here devolved upon him so entirely to the satisfaction of the Council, that when, in 1839, he resigned his post, he received, at the hands of the Royal Dublin Society, a very handsome presentation. During the above period the grounds had been thoroughly remodelled, and great and important improvements made — improvements which have been since further modernised, and, which under the skilful management of his successor, the present Dr. Moore, render the Glasnevin Gardens a credit alike to the profession and to the country. During the latter part of Mk. Niven's curatorship his time was occupied to a considerable extent in carrying on professional work, and, after resigning his post, he devoted his energies entirely to the career of a landscape gardener, and has since been employed in that capacity in all parts of the country ; and it would be easy to point out numerous instances where his art has assisted Nature in a manner only possible to one who was a born landscape gardener. During the thirty-four years of his life devoted to this delightful employment, he has further organised horticultural and experimental nursery grounds at the Garden Farm, Drumcondra, not far from Dublin, where, besides an admirably managed nursery, containing the finest collec- tion of fruit treeB in Ireland, are to be found a choice assortment of botanical specimens, and alpine and herbaceous borders containing mementos of the olden time, when the countless scarlet and zonal Geraniums, the Verbenas, Lobelias, and other florid elements of the modern system of flower gardening, had not as yet seen the light. Amid the many claims on his time in connection with his professional career, as well as the entire management of his home nurseries and experimental garden, he was a not unfrequent contributor, on botanical subjects, to the periodical literature of the day, more especially in early life, and we find his name constantly occurring in " Loudon's Magazine." A valuable essay on the cultivation of the Potato, written many years ago, carried off the gold medal offered by the Royal Dublin Society ; this was succeeded by a second pamphlet on the Potato disease, and, just before the close of Me. Niven's residence at Glasnevim, he published a popular guide to those gardens, the first, we believe, that had been attempted of any botanical garden. With the " Guide " proper was incorporated a text-book on practical botany, the object being to popularise a science that, at the period we speak of, had but few votaries among the general public. To these may be added one of the best practical treatises on the cultivation of Asparagus, the value of which is fully appreciated even at the present clay. Those who have had, as we have, the pleasure of a long acquaintance with Mb. Niven, will bear witness to his professional and intellectual attainments, and to the courtesy with which he invariably met all who paid him a visit at his Garden Farm at Drumcondra. At the present time, at the age of seventy- five, his faculties retain their youthful vigour not only unimpaired, but matured by the experience of a professional career far longer than that allowed to most men. We trust that this experience may extend over a still longer period, and that he may continue to enjoy for some years yet the position to which his energy and ability have raised him ; a wish in which we are sure his numerous friends, both in and out of his profession, will heartily unite. Jak. 2, 1S75.] 5§ THE <3 -A. I?/ 3D E IsT . VOL. VII. TRANSPLANTING HOLLIES. By JAMES M'NAB, Royal Botanic Gardens, Edinburgh. As I have often been consulted in regard to planting and transplanting Holly hedges, I will give the result of rny experience on these subjects as briefly as possible. There is, perhaps, no species of hardy evergreen now in cultivation better adapted for forming hedges than the common green Holly. It is beautiful at all seasons, bears cutting-in without injury, and makes a most impenetrable and a very orna- namental fence. A feeling, however, prevails against its general use in consequence of its having the reputation of being a plant of comparatively slow growth. If properly attended to, however, after planting, it will soon make a good and serviceable hedge. Some Holly hedges arc now known to bo in good condition, although planted upwards of a century ago ; and, notwithstanding that the points of the shoots are regularly clipped off, they manage to cover in time a large space of ground. This cannot be avoided, as the lateral branches continue annually to elongate, unless temporarily dis- figured by close cutting-in, say once every twenty or twenty-five years. Holly and Yew make the best evergreen fences which we have in this country ; and, like the Holly, the Yew bears cutting-in well; it is, however, more subject to blemishes from various causes than the Holly, and it is less easily put right when injured. "When a young Holly hedge is to be formed the plants iised for it should not be less than from 18 inches to 2 feet in height. It is necessary, too, that they should have been frequently transplanted previously to being used, and that, during such removals, the roots should have been occasionally cut-in, so as to induce the formation of fibres from the cut surfaces. If the ground selected for planting the hedge should be near the nursery in which the plants grew, or at such a distance from it that the young plants can be taken in a cart with as much soil as possible attached to their roots, all will go well ; but, if they have to be trans- ferred to a distance, it is absolutely necessary to have them on the property for a year or so before being used. When received direct from a nursery establishment they are apt to be more bared of soil at their roots for the purpose of close packing than is desirable for immediate hedge-making pur- poses ; and, therefore, the importance of having them in nursery rows in the ground for some time before being made into a hedge, and when wanted for that purpose they can be lifted with sufficient adherent balls of earth for permanent planting. By this mode of treatment it will be found that fewer plants will answer the purpose, and that the future sup- cess of the hedge will be more complete than it otherwise would be. After the ground for the reception of the young hedge has been properly trenched and prepared for the purpose, plants should be put in with well manured soil, and afterwards watered freely with diluted liquid manure, and this should be repeated several times throughout the season. This liquid manure will be found an excellent stimulant for all young Hollies, whether planted singly or in hedge lines. After being one year planted the hedge should be slightly clipped in on each side, and this practice should be continued annually for many years afterwards, so as to induce an upward growth, which it will rapidly take if the ground is in good condition. This side clipping should be accomplished during the month of September, or as soon as the young shoots are found to be properly ripened. "When the hedge attains the height of 5 or 6 feet it should be regularly topped, leaving, however, one strong plant at, say every 20 feet, to form a leader, and these must be reduced to 40 feet apart.asthe hedge gains strength and vigour. These leaders should be knife-pruned till they become 3 or 4 feet in height. "When they are strong and somewhat aged, it will be found that they will fruit abundantly, which the hedge never can be expected to do so long as clipping is resorted to. As to transplanting large Holly hedges, say from eighteen to twenty years old, such hedges may be removed with perfect safety, provided the ground is opened up on each side a full year previous to removal, and all the large roots which come in the way are cut and smoothed over, particularly at the edges, with a sharp knife, instead of being hacked off with a spade, as too frequently happens, when few or no rootlets will be formed from their rugged extremities,whcreas the smooth knife-cut roots will be found to put forth numerous films. The trench may afterwards be filled in with leaf mould and sand, mixed with the ordinary soil thrown out, applying a good dose of water after it has been filled in, and then allowing it to stand for a year. Autumn will be found to be the best time for root-pruning, and the hedge may be removed to the place selected for it during the following autumn or the spring twelvemonth. "When removal takes place, the hedge should THE GAEDEN. [Jan. 2, 1875. be lifted in flakes, large or small, according to the distance to which it is to be conveyed and the appliances at command. If the distance is short, it can be laid over in pieces 3 or 4 feet long on a large board or four-handed barrow, and carried to the new trench, into which they can be slid in an upright position. After planting, fill in with good soil, and water freely, cutting off any protruding pieces that cannot be easily worked into the neighbouring flakes. If a dry summer should follow the transplanting, an occasional syringing will be desirable. With older hedges, say from thirty to forty years' standing, it is necessary to cut in the branches on each side to within 8 or 9 inches of the main stem, and to head down to within 5 feet of the ground, smoothing and darkening all the incisions. A trench should then be made on each side; all large roots should be cut off and prepared, as recommended for hedges of smaller size, and afterwards the trench should be filled in with good soil. After standing for a year or so, the hedge may be removed with impunity, either in single pieces or short flakes, shortening in the intertwining branches during the operation of lifting. With good feeding and watering, such a hedge will soon break out all over, and will again make a beautiful green fence. It will be necessary, however, to have a number of young plants at hand, in order to fill up any wide gaps that may be occasioned whilst trans- planting it to its new situation. It often happens that portions of very old hedges get out of shape from various causes, and are often seen covering a large space of ground. In such cases I would recommend that all the stems should be shortened to the height wanted, say 6, 7, or 8 feet, and that all the branches should be well cut in on both sides. After this, lay a good coating of old manure and soil over the surface of the ground. Trench about 2\ feet deep along each side, and about two feet from the old" stems, forking the material well in among the roots on each side while filling in, as well as over the surface of the ground left close to the stem, and afterwards covering the ground with good soil, so as to keep the finished surface on each side about 4 or 5 inches above the ordinary ground level. By this treatment, fresh vigour will be infused into the old cut stems, much ground will be reclaimed, and the hedge will soon be made to assume its proper shape again. In the case of very old hedges.jhis operation had better be done late in autumn, and the stems will be found to break out freely during the following spring. The Holly, although undoubtedly a hardy plant, has occa- sionally been injured by frost, as happened in many places during the winter of 1860-61. At that time a hedge under my care had to be cut down to the level of the snow, which then varied from 18 inches to 2 feet in depth. As the low side branches were unkilled (being then under snow), they were all cut close in on both sides with a hedge-bill, and good soil was afterwards trenched in on each side to within 10 inches of the root portion of the stem. This hedge is now 6 feet in height, and has been so for a long time, and is as neat in appearance as it was before the injury took place. Another hedge of the same ago, and injured at the same time, had only the dead tops removed ; afterwards it received no attention, owing to ist being in an unprotected situation, and now it is in a very dilapidated condition. Although the autumn months are generally considered to be the most favourable for transplant- ing_ Holly hedges, that operation may also be carried on in spring with perfect safety. If the summer, indeed, should be at all moist, little difficulty will be found in transplanting a Holly hedge during any month in the year, provided it has been previously prepared, and the newly-made shoots in stout short lengths. If the weather should prove dry after planting, coating of new-mown Grass, placed on the surface, of the ground on each side, will greatly benefit it, by keeping the surface moist; and, besides this, an occasional syringing night and morning may also lie given with advantage. Although Holly hedges are often seen in gardens and pleasure-grounds all over the country, they are but rarely seen as a fence for agricultural purposes. If thus employed, in many places they would succeed admirably, and prove both efficient and durable, besides being pleasing to the eye. For railway fences, Holly hedges would have a good effect ; and, if they received the same amount of attention, they would prove quite as orna- mental and useful as the Thorn for such purposes. NOTES OF THE WEEK. The exhaustive article on Daffodils, by Mr. Niven, which we publish this week, we have preferred inserting, though lengthy, in one number, notwithstanding that we are, in consequence, prevented from publishing our usual variety of matter. The importance of the beautiful Daffodil family in the embellishment of gardens of all kinds makes us feel, however, that a complete and illustrated history of the family will be appreciated by all lovers of hardy flowers. The article will be found useful for reference for many years to come. With the exception of three of the cuts purchased from Messrs. Yilmorin, of Paris, all the illustrations have been drawn by Mr. Burbidge and engraved by Mr. Hyde. Mr. Wm. Paul's exhibition of Roses in pots, pictorial trees, Geraniums, and other plants, furnished from his nurseries at Waltham Cross, will this year be held at the Royal Botanic Society's Gardens, Regent's Park, from the 3rd to the 10th of May inclusive. The Alexandra Palace Company announce that the new palace and park will be opened on the 1st of May next. The Barnes Fund, we learn, must soon be closed. The sum collected is still under £200, and, as it is desirable that that amount should be obtained, we trust that such as have not yet subscribed will lose no time in giving their support to so good a cause. Messrs. Backhouse write to us from York to say that Fahrenheit's thermometer registered 31° of frost there on the morning of the 30th ult., in low open ground, being 1° only above zero. They state that they also hear of a similar reading on the other side of that city. A new book on Ferns, called " The Fern Paradise," by Mr. Francis George Heath, is to be published by Hodder and Stoughtou. It purports to be a plea for the culture of Ferns, and will include descriptions of ferny rambles through the green lanes, the woods, and the glens of Devonshire. The council of the Royal Horticultural Society have under- taken to hold five evening meetings in 1875, at which papers will be read and discussion invited on details of the science and practice of horticulture. These meetings are fixed for the following Wednesdays, at eight o'clock, p.m., viz., January 13th and 27th, February 3rd and 21th, and March 10th. At a recent meeting of the Edinburgh Botanical Society, Mr. Potts of Fettesmount, exhibited a mass of roots of the common Poplar, taken from a drain pipe, which they had completely choked up for a space of 40 feet, a growth of less than five years. Mr. Greig of Glencase, instanced a case of roots of a Willow choking up a 4-inch water pipe for a considerable distance within four years after the pipe had been laid. Tiiere is at present in bloom in Mr. Bockett's fine collection of Orchids (recently moved to Stamford Hill), a splendid plant of the beautiful and very rare Ltelia anceps Dawsonii . It has on it three spikes, bearing seven lovely and delicate blossoms. It is in fine health, and is one of the most charming of all late-flowering Orchids. There is also in the same collection a wonderf ally fine form of the Laslia albida, much superior, both in size and marking, to the ordinary kind. It is a very large specimen (on a block), some 2 feet by 1\ feet, in vigorous health, and is bearing thirty-five flowers. Mr. Worst, of the Moscow Botanic Garden, has this year succeeded for the first time in raising the Sumbul plant (Euryangium Sumbul) from seed. He sowed the seeds in the autumn of 1873 in a dung bed, and covered them up later with snow and lights ; they germinated freely in the spring. Ono notable characteristic is the manner of the development of the first leaves, which appear below the Cotyledons, a .peculiarity not unfrequent in Anagallis arvensis, several species of Euphorbia, Antirrhinum, &c, and previously observed in some species of Umbelliferoa. Mr. Wobst has found that the Sumbul invariably dies after once flowering; of all the plants that have flowered with him not one has thrown up a second flower. Two varieties of Sumbul root appear to be imported into this country for use in medicine, one known as Russian, and the other as Indian Sumbul. The former occurs in circular pieces ranging from 2i to 5 inches in diameter, and from i to li inches thick; they are simply sections of the root cut across and dried, and have a dirty-brown appearauco, and a roughish dark brown- bark often covered with short bristly fibres. The substance of the root is coarsely fibrous and spongy, and it has a very powerful odour of musk, and a bitterish acrid taste. That known as Indian Sumbul is said to be imported from Bombay, and sometimes round by China, whence it has been called China Sumbul. It is somewhat closer, firmer, and of a more reddish tint than the Russian, and the odour is scarcely so powerful. It is used as a stimulant and anti-spasmodic in nervous affections, typhoid fevers, Ac, and is usually given m the form of a tincture, but also as a powder. Jan. 2, 1875.] THE GARDEN. THE GARDEN FLORA. ALL THE DAFFODILS. By J. C. NIVBN, Botanic Gardens, Hull. Historical Remarks. If there be one genus of plants that belongs to the region of poets and poetry more than another, it is the Narcissus. Theocritus, Ovid, and Virgil have sung in classic strains the poetic circumstances of its birth — how the enamotired youth, ■whose patronymic the genus perpetuates, sacrificed his mortal existence (if, by the way, mortal he may be called) on the altar of his own vanity, and attained a full meed of immortality as representative of the whole family of our charm- ing Daffodils. The old Sicilian botanist, Dioscorides, before the Christian era had dawned, mentions several distinct forms, and records certain medicinal virtues which they possessed, some of which were doubtless due to a lively imagination. Our old herbalists, such as Parkinson, Dodonseus, and others, give rough, but very expressive, figures of the various species then known, which, associated with their quaint descriptions, are exceedingly interesting, and some- times highly amusing. Linnaeus describes nearly a dozen species, most of which still retain the names under which they were described by him — one of the many silent testimonies that our modern botanists bear to the clear discernment and sound judgment of that master-mind in our special field of science. Some fifty years ago, or less, there appears, however, to have been a sort of Nareissal cyclone in the floral world within our island, and, suddenly, we find the species increased by scores ; for as many as 150 were enumerated and described by Haworth,in his " Monograph," published in 1831. In fact, so overwhelmed was he by the magnitude that the old genus had attained under his indefatigable — though not always judicially discriminating — observation, that, in the same " Monograph," he immolates Narcissus once more, and raises from the ashes some sixteen genera, for several of which such as Diomedes, Gairymedes, Ajax, and Hermione, he harks back to the mythological regions, by way, I presume, of poetic compensation. To anyone familiar with the genus, it will be evident that Haworth considered the slightest variation in size, shape, or colour of any of the parts, sufficient to form the basis of a new species. No doubt there was much of uncertainty in his time as to what constituted a species ; nor, indeed, has the lapse of half a century, with all its scientific progress, tended much to remove that doubt, and the question as to what a species is still remains unanswered, whether it be put with reference to this or any other genus. Dean Herbert, who devoted a long career to the study of the natural family to which the Narcissi belong, and who, from being an indefatigable hybridiser, ought to have been fully impressed with the inconstancy of characters thus acquired as available for descriptive botany, and the extreme danger of attempting to give them a specific value, modified Haworth's enumera- tion, in so far that he reduced the genera to six, and relegated many of the species to varieties ; he might have gone further and called them very doubtful variations. Some allowance must be made in both the foregoing cases. Each cultivator was an enthusiast — each had accumulated a large collection of Daffodils — each, doubtless, was the pos- sessor of one of those old-fashioned gardens where Nature reigned supreme, and where Art was banished to the outer world. In both, the fertilising pollen of the Daffodil was borne from blossom to blossom by insects, and thus crosses and inter- crosses formed that, in course of time, led to many variations — some merely temporary, some permanent — but all were elevated to a position far above their rank or station. Then, again, when the mind of an enthusiast is bent on discovering a distinction, how prone it is to magnify differences that the eye of one less sanguine would detect as a mere variation, arising from such causes, as soil, situation, or season. Possibly the enthusiast may retaliate, by saying the eye of the outsider is uneducated, and consequently unable to appreciate such fine distinctions. Knowing how futile it is to attempt to define the word, a species ought to have at least sufficiently constant and distinctive characteristics as may be embodied in an intelligible description ; and, moreover, all species ought to emanate from some locality where they are indigenous, and not from the precincts of a garden whereiu the original types have been accumulated, and, in the course of years, have become involved in an almost inextricable confusion of inter-breeding. Our Continental brethren appear to have been perfectly satis- fied with the labours of Haworth and Herbert, which they deemed as exhaustive, and hence we find Kunth, in his valu- able work on Monocotyledons, embodies their ideas almost in their entirety. The next phase that presents itself in the history of the genus is the culminating one. In the_ spring of 1869, a prize for a certain number of species of Narcissi was offered by the Koyal Horticultural Society, evidently betoken- ing that, after a loug period of neglect, they were again becoming claimants for popular favour. But here arose a difficulty, and a very serious one, as the prize was offered for a number of species— what would be considered by the judges a species, and what a variety ? From my foregoing remarks, it will be evident that the judges would be placed on the horns of a dilemma. Fortunately, Mr. Baker, of the Kew Herbarium, than whom no one could be better fitted to solve the difficulty, volunteered his services, and prepared a most elaborate analysis of all the known species, which was duly published that year, and in which the whole category of genera, in spite of their immortal names and mythological associations, were swept away, and Narcissus himself re-estab- lished, as of old, on his ancient throne. Out of 150 so-called species, only twenty-one were found to bear the stamp and impress of true specific character, those others that possessed permanent distinctions being placed as varieties under the head of their specific types. With this wholesale but judicious reduction I entirely agree— so entirely that I intend availing myself of Mr. Baker's excellent analysis as the basis of the following series of short paragraphs by which I purpose describing the accompanying admirable illustrations, and which I hope will complete an historical, descriptive, and cultural monograph, such as, I trust, may prove of value ahke to the amateur and the general cultivator. Before closing these remarks, I ought to say that as some forty years had elapsed between the Golden Age of Haworth and the Iron Age of Baker, nearly all the old collections had died out ; hence this vigorous onslaught cannot have been so keenly felt as otherwise would have been the case. Some twenty-eight years ago I found at Kew a collection of about 110 named species, the greater part having originated from Haworth's stock. These I gradually reduced during the five years they were under my charge to fifty-two in number, and many of these I find, on looking over one of my old note-books, are referred to as only varieties. From this it will be readily seen that I was quite prepared to endorse even Mr. Baker's sweeping reduction. Natural Affinities, Geographical Distribution, &c. The genus Narcissus constitutes the type under which a group of six natural orders, with a tolerably close affinity to one another, are arranged by Lindley in his "Vegetable Kingdom," under the title of the Narcissal Alliance.^ Ihey are botanically characterised by having the ovary inferior, the flowers symmetrical, and the seeds albuminous. The largest of these Orders, and that to which our plant belongs, is Amaryllidaceas, the Amaryllis family, an Order consistmg for the greater part of plants with extremely showy flowers. This will be at once admitted when I say that, besides our Narcissi, we find in its ranks such plants as the Galanthus or Snowdrop ; the Amaryllis, in all its lovely and brilliant shades of colour ; the Vallota, or Scarborough Lily ; the Nerme, or Guernsey Lily; the rarer Griffinia, with its charming blue flowers ; the Pancratium, with its delicate purity and delicious fragrance; and the Crinum, a very giant among bulbous plants. These and many others that constitute the first two sub-divisions of the Order have all bulbous underground stems. In the third tribe we have the Alstroemeria and the Bomarea, alike lovely and remarkable for their great variety of colour, producing in place of bulbs fleshy underground tubers ; and in the fourth tribe we have the giant Agaves— erroneously called American Aloes— in which the bulbous character dis- appears, and is replaced by thick, fleshy, spinous leaves, fleshy roots, and a perfectly arborescent development of flower stem. To the superficial observer the connection of this tribe with THE GARDEN. [Jan. 2. 1875. our humble growing Narcissi will be somewhat puzzling ; but in floral structure there is a sufficiently close analogy to warrant the relationship. The special peculiarity of the Narcissus tribe consists in the presence of a distinct cup-like appendage between the petals and the stamens, called by old authors the " nectary," but now more generally known as the " corona," or crown. It is analogous to the ring of filamentous appendages that we are familiar with in the Passion Flower. The origin of this coronal growth is by botanists attributed to a disposition on the part of these plants to develop an increased number of stamens. In the Pancratium, an allied genus, the filaments of the stamens are confluent with this appendage, and in some species between each stamen arises a small bilobed process that has evidently a close relationship to a modified anther. Be the origin, however, what it may, we find that this peculiar growth gives us a character of sufficient constancy as to be available for the grouping of the species into three distinct divisions. The geographical distribution of any genus is, to my mind, always a subject of especial interest — how cosmopolitan some plants are found to be ; how local others ; nor are we always able to assign reasons for these differences. Our Narcissi are — so far at least as our present knowledge goes — almost wholly confined to Southern Europe; three or four species extend southward to the Mediterranean shores of Northern Africa; one at least is indigenous to Britain, and found as far north as Sweden, and one appears to extend east- ward— through Syria and North India — to China and even Japan. On the other hand, we have not a single species indigenous to either North or South America. True, in the " Flora Peruviana " we have one species described under the generic title of Narcissus, but it evidently belongs to a distinct genus, Ismene, and must be looked upon not as an immediate member of the family, but as a distant relation in a distant land. I admit that I have had bulbs of Narcissi sent home from Lima — genuine Narcissi — but these have, no doubt, been taken there originally by the Spanish monks ; and to a similar source, I am disposed to believe, do two of the three species, which are said by some authors to be natives of Britain, owe their introduction. If the sites of some of the old massive monastic buildings themselves have disappeared, it will surely be a matter of surprise to none that the limits of their old gardens have vanished, and still less that, in the course of centuries, the plants thus introduced will have escaped far beyond those limits, and established themselves in adjacent districts. We have many other instances in which our Flora has been originally indebted to this source for some of its so-called endemic plants. Australia has no representative of tkg genus —nor, so far as my knowledge goes, does it favour ^is with its analogue. The same remark applies to the Cape of Good Hope. We may, therefore, conclude that the home of our Daffodils is Southern Europe, from which they have digressed northward through Britain to Sweden, and eastward, by a very delicate streak through India, as far as Japan. ^Respecting the medicinal properties of the Narcissi, I have already stated that our old herbalists have recorded in then- favour, besides many " virtues," as they were wont to term them, not a few vices ; and the generally accepted idea is, that the bulbs are somewhat poisonous and emetic. This is confirmed by Lindley and other modern writers; and, further, that the flowers, especially those of the large Daffodil of our woods and gardens, are also poisonous, and, when eaten, as they have been by children, have been attended by serious results. Explanatory Remarks upon Technical Terms. However popular the writer's aim may be in giving a botanical description of a plant, it is utterly impossible to avoid using technical terms to some extent. Admitting this, it will therefore be advisable that I set myself at one with the reader by offering some remarks explanatory of those terms, and also of the structural points, which are of the greatest value in descriptive botany as applied to any special group of plants. Amongst Endogens, to which large primary division the natural order Amaryllidacea) belongs, there is a much greater difficulty in securing well-defined specific descriptive characters than amongst the larger class of Exogens; and peculiarly is this remark applicable to the genus Narcissus. It arises from the fact that all the leaves arc more or less narrow, smooth in their margins, and springing from that form of underground stem known as a bulb ; in whose formation there is little room for variation, except it be in a matter of size, the slight value of which distinctiou will be familiar to all botanists. Now, in Exogens, we have frequently good, tangible, specific distinctions, derivable from these two sources, with the double recommendation that they readily admit of technical description, and, further, that the distinctive character conveyed in such language is both easily understood and readily applied by the student in the process of investiga- tion. The mere measurement of the several parts must be looked upon as a very doubtful assistance in descriptive botany. Those measurements, which would be applicable to a species growing under one set of cultural conditions, would be totally inapplicable to the same species under another set of conditions ; nay, further, such measurements as would faithfully represent the plant development one year, might be perfectly inapplicable to the same plant the next season ; the reason of this anyone who knows the extreme variability of our climate (and who does not), and also how much plant growth is affected, beneficially or otherwise, by these climatic variations, will at once comprehend. All the species form shortened stems underneath the surface of the soil, which are known by the title of bulbs ; the structure of these may be more readily understood if I define them as buds in which, besides the growiug point, there are layers of thick fleshy scales, which act in the two-fold capacity of protective appendages and magazines of nutritious matter, the stem proper of the bulb being merely a flattened axis to which the scales are attached. From the centre of this bulb the leaves arise, they and the flower constituting the fully developed condition of the growing point. The leaves vary somewhat in width, and as they are sharp or blunt at the point, are termed acute or obtuse; some- times they are round in the section like a rush, at other times flattened, with a slightly projecting keel corresponding with the mid-rib at the back ; in colour they vary between dark green, generally the predominant characteristic of the rush- like or cylindrical type, or suffused with a greyish tint to which the term glaucous is applied, as in nearly all the broad- leaved sorts. The term applied to the flower-stalk is the scape ; it is either cylindrical or somewhat flattened with a slight wing-like process arising from the sides ; in the former case it is termed terete, in the latter ancipitous. The scape is terminated by a spatho or sheath, nearly always of a thin membraneous character, and enclosing one or more flowers as the case may be. The peduncle is that portion of the stem extending from within the scape to the base of the flower. Important characters, not unfrequently hinge on the relative length of the spathe as compared with the peduncle ; this appears, though constant in similar species, to have a good deal of variability in different species. The flower consists of a combination of calyx and corolla, which in Endogens, where they possess great similarity, are collectively termed the perianth. A portion of the perianth is tubular ; a further portion is expanded in the form of six lobes or divisions, whose relative length with respect to the tube it is im- portant to notice, as also whether they are separate or developed so closely and in such a manner as to overlap one another at their margins, when they are termed imbricated. Another important character hinges on the angle made by these divisional lobes with the tube; sometimes they are bent back or reflexed ; more ordinarily they expand at right angles, or, as in one exceptional instance, they form an acute angle, and thus give the appearance as though the flowers were only half expanded. The corona or crown, whose origin I have already alluded to, possesses some very valuable distinctive characters. Variations occur in respect to its length ; on the one hand, it may be but a mere marginal rim, and, on the other, a cylindrical process of much greater length and magnitude than the perianth itself; its upper margin may be smooth and undivided, in which case it is termed entire, or it may have notches, which, when deep, are termed lobes ; or it may be frilled, as it were, or have a jagged margin ; in the former case it would be termed crispate, in the latter scariose. It will thus, at once, be evident that this sort of fortuitous growth forms an important element in specific descriptions; and, as I said before,according to its greater or less Jan. 2, 1875.] THE GARDEN. development; the whole of the species are divided into three groups. The stamens are six in number, the anthers being supported on stalks called filaments that appear to vary in length according to the size of the corona ; where the latter is short the filaments are scarcely developed at all, and usually three only of the anthers are visible in the neck of the tubular part of the perianth, the remaining three being developed at a lower level ; where the corona is long and expanded the fila- ments are well developed, and in that case appear to bend slightly downwards and then curve upwards, to which the term declinate is given. The pistil, whose ovary occurs in the form of a small egg-shaped or lobed green process at the base of the tube of the flower, possesses a style of sufficient length to elevate the stigma to about the level of the three uppermost stamens ; sometimes it protrudes beyond, in which case it is terme exserted. This, however, is of rare occurrence. Grouping of Species. Though some authors have grouped their species according to the shape of the leaves, I prefer adopting the development of the corona as a more constant character, and, in so doing, follow in Mr. Baker's footsteps, than whom, I believe, no better leader could be selected. To our first group, therefore, the title " large-crowned " fully expresses the fact that it contains all those species in which the corona equals or exceeds in length the divisions of the perianth. The second group — medium- crowned — will include all those in which the crown is about half the length of the perianth ; or, in some cases, slightly in excess of that proportion. The third — small or short-crowned — includes all those species iu which the length of the crown is less than one-half the length of the perianth ; and, in some cases, so much less that it becomes little more than a marginal line. Group I.— Large-Crowned. Under this title we have, according to Mr. Baker, but three distinct species, viz. : — I. Narcissus Bulbocodium of Linnteus. — The typical plant upon which Haworth based his genus, Corbularia, possesses the Hoop-petticoat Narcissus. Wavy-leaved Narcissus. following distinctive characters :— The bulbs are ovoid, small, coated with dark-brown membraneous scales ; the leaves are two or three in number, almost cybndrical and rnsh-like, of a dark.green colour, rather longer than the flower-stalk ; the scape slender and terete, carrying a single partially-erect flower; the pedicels being short and surrounded by the membraneous spathe ; the perianth gradually widening from the ovary — the divisions linear lanceolate, narrowing into an acute point about the same length as the crown ; the crown wide, expanded, or funnel-shaped, the margin circular, almost entire ; stamens, six in a double rank; filaments, sufficiently long to bring the anthers to a level with the mouth of the corona, slightly declinate ; the pistil exserted. The flowers are a brilliant yellow, little variation occurring between the corona and the perianth. They are produced about the middle of May. This species is known as " the Hoop- petticoat Narcissus," a name arising from the similarity of the corona to the fully-distended petticoat of the last century. It ia a native of the coast of France, from Bordeaux southward to Spain and Portugal, and occurs also in the north of Africa. Culturally speaking, this is a somewhat delicate species, growing freely in light Boil, and espe- cially loving a mixture of peat, loam, and sand on a dry sub-soil. In damp low-lying ground the bulbs are liable to rot off in the winter Common Daffodil. time. Amongst the whole of the Narcissi we have no more showy plant than the Hoop-petticoat Narcissus. It is adapted both for outdoor culture — when the soil and sub-soil suits — and for indoor culture, where the intense brilliant yellow of its blossoms, contrasted with its dark-green leaves, recommend it for spring decoration in tho conservatory. It is not, however, amenable to very early forcing as its blooms are liable to go blind. Amongst the varieties of "this species which possess tolerably constant characters, and are in prettv general cultivation, we have four varieties : — Var. 1. B. conspicuum, the Corbularia conspicua of Herbert. It is in all respects a major form, with the margin of the corona slightly wavy, and is synonymous with Haworth's Corbularia gigas and aurea. Var. 2. B. tenuifoliwm.—ln which the plant is altogether smaller and the leaves more slender and twisted. Var. 3. B. serotinum differs from the typical species, in having a much more widely expanded corona, and broader divisions of the perianth, and in its flowers standing well above the peculiarly twisted foliage. Var. 4. B. monophyllum, synonymous with N. Clusii of Dunal —I have my doubts whether this should not be retained as a distinct species. It differs from all the others in its flowers being almost white, in its producing one leaf only, or in rare instances two, and in its' exceedingly dwarf growth. In respect to its cultural peculiarities it stands alone ; once only have I flowered it, from bulbs sent me from the Jardin des Plantes, Paris. The past summer is the second during which the same bulbs have laid dormant ; not a vestige of growth have they made, and yet they are perfectly fresh. The same remark applies to several bulbs I had from the authorities at Kew three years ago. It is a native of Barbary and the north coast of Africa, where, I am told, it grows and flowers freely enough. Why, then, should it be so stubborn in cultivation with us ? Clearly, some of the special conditions which will warrant success are wantino- to us. Perhaps some of your correspondents who have been more successful, or who have seen it growing wild, will kindly favour us with a detailed account of the conditions under which it flourishes in its native habitat. II. N. Pseudo-Narcissus of Linnaeus is the true Daffodil, with which we are all familiar from our earliest childhood. It is the typical plant upon which Haworth constituted his genus Ajax. Tho bulbs of this species are egg-shaped, and fully twice the size of the previous one ; the leaves are produced in fives or sixes, broad erect flat on the upper side, and slightly keeled below, of a greyish-green (glaucous), somewhat shorter than the scape at the time of blooming, but increasing in length afterwards ; the scape is about 12 inches high, flattened, and presenting two prominent edges; the flowers solitary, the short pedicel completely included in the sheath ; the tube of the perianth about half an inch long, ob. conical the divisions slightly spreading, each alternate one rather blunter ; the crown, equal in length to the divisions, somewhat plicate at the mouth, and irregularly notched at the margin, the stamens rising in one series from the base of the tube; the colour is yellow, the crown being of a deeper tinge than the perianth ; one of the earliest blooming of the Narcissi, coming into flower about the middle of March. It is a native of Britain, but rare in Scotland ; it is found also as far north as Sweden, and is pretty generally distributed through Spain, Portugal, and Transylvania. Under this species we have five or six very distinct varieties. 1. Pseudo Narcissus plenus and plenissimus. — The former is the ordinary double variety ; the latter, as the name indicates, is a much more extreme form of reduplication ; it is much more dwarf in habit and is a variety rarely met with. 2. Pseiido Narcissus, major.— Synonymous with Haworth's N. maximus and Salisbury's grandiflorus. This is, in every respect, a plant of largergrowth, besides which the petals are more expanded, and the crown wider at the mouth and more crispate than in our typical species; the leaves, also, are twisted. It has been thought by some that the above variety, plenissimns, is the double forinof this, which I should be disposed to admit, were it not for its markedly diminished stature. N. Pseudo Narcissus, var. 3 licolor.— The old N. bicolorof Linrajus. —A very handsome variety, differing chiefly in the fact that the THE GARDEN. [Jan. 2, 1875. perianth is of a pale lemon.yellow, whilst the crown is a deep golden colour ; it flowers nearly a month later than its type, and is by no means so frequently met with in cultivation. N. Pseudo Narcissus, var. 4. moschains. — Synonymous with N. cer- nuus, of Haworth, and very pro. bably with N. Sabini, figured in the Botanical Register, possibly the latter may be a garden hybrid. This variety has a similar de- velopment to the type, and differs chiefly in the fact, that the flower, in all its parts, is coloured alike of a pale sulphur-yellow, almost approaching to white. Why this name was especially given, I am at a loss to discover, as I have never been able to detect any musky character in its fragrance. In this variety the corona gene- rally exceeds in length the diver- gent petals, which are more or less twisted. Musk-scented Narcissus. N. Pseudo Narcissus, var. 5 minor. — This most interesting and earliest blooming of all the Daffodils will be familiar to many under some of the following synonyms : N. nanus, pygmaaus, pumilus, and exiguus. Its stature does not exceed 5 or 6 inches, and in all its parts it presents the appearance of a diminutive form of the type; how this character has become so confirmed it would be difficult to say; but we find it has altered nothing during three centuries of garden culture, and the figure given by Dodonceus is nnmistakeably the identical plaut of the present day. It is not often one sees a variation so constant. It is a native of Spain. Its neat compact habit, and its early blooming, are characteristics which must com- mend it for general culture. I am quite disposed to believe that there are two very distinct forms of this minor variety readily appreciable by those who are familiar with them in a living state ; but these distinctive characteristics appear, like the acrid poisonous matter of many plants, to evaporate in the process of drying. III. N. Calathinus of Linnaeus (N. reflexus of Brotero) is quite distinct from that figured in the Botanical Magazine under that name. The general appearance of the plant, both as to floral struc- ture and growth, is admirably given in the accompanying figure. The bulbs are not half the size of the preceding species ; the leaves are gene- rally in threes, very slender, and of tolerably bright green, and concave on the face. The scape is also slender and rounded, rising to a height of 8 to 12 inches ; flowers, one or two on a stem, supported on long pedicels that raise them clear of the spathe, and give them a drooping character. The tube of the flower is very narrow, and, in this respect, quite distinct from the preced- ing species. The divisions of the perianth are almost oval, tapering off at either end, and com- pletely reflexed. The crown is about the same length as the divisions, tending in shape more to the globose than the cylindrical; the margin is merely indented into six smooth lobes ; the stamens are arranged in a doublo series, but do not protrude into the corona ; the colour of all parts of the flower is a pale yellow, and thero is Bomo record of a pure white form. It blooms in tho latter part of April. This is both a handsome and a rare species, not only rare in cultiva- tion, but also rare so far as its ascertained localities are concerned. Mr. Baker records two habitats, one on the island of Drenec, one of the Glenans, on the coast of Brittany ; the other in Portugal, on the authority of Baron Paiva. I once had the true species in cultivation, and flowered it, but it died the following season ; nor, indeed, does Mons. Thnret appear to have had much better success at Aiitibes. A tolerably clear reason for our want of success is to be fonnd in tho conditions under which it grows in its wild state. It appears that the short Grass amongst which it is found abundant enjoys the influence of an extremely mild and moist climate, and is also continuously and copiously watered by tho salt spray from tho sea. It is presumed by some that this island is tho only known locality for this interesting species of Narcissus. Reflexed Narcissus. Cyclamen-flowered Narcissus. Group II.— Medium-Crowned. The crown is about one-half the length of the divisions of the perianth. In this group Mr. Baker enumerates but seven species, five of which only are known as really wild plants, and specimens of which occur in the herbaria from their respective habitats. IV. N. triandrus of Linnaeus (the Ganymedes triandrus of Haworth) , is one of those few specific names in which Linnseus may be caught tripping. The inference one would naturally draw from the name is that the flower possesses but three stamens, and although only that number present themselves at the mouth of the tube, there is a second series, unobservable, a little lower down, which the mechanical opening of the tube at once displays. It would appear that Haworth was as equally at fault as his great predecessor, and adopted the trian- drus specific character. Possibly the three lower stamens may be some- times abortive ; but in the plants I have grown the six perfectly, developed stamens were evident enough. The bulb is very small, not more than half an inch in diameter, somewhat elongated. Tho leaves, usually in threes, exceedingly slender and semi. cylindrical, 6 to 8 inches long, of an olive-green ; scape, two-flowered, about 8 to 12 inches high, slender ; the pedicels of the uppermost flower long, and clearing the spathe ; that of the lower one scarcely pro- truding from it ; the tube of the flower slender and cylindrical ; the divisions of the perianth lanceolate and reflexed ; the crown obconical, with an almost entire margin ; stamens in two distinct series, the upper in. serted near the mouth of the tube, the lower at a point con. siderably below ; the flowers, both as regards tubes, petals, and corona, are pure white and pendulous. It is a native of Spain, being tolerably abundant in the Pyrenees, where it blooms in the month of April, but in cultivation in this country its blooming season is nearer the middle of May. The figure in the Botanical Magazine differs from the above description as regards colour, as it is there represented of a pale yellow tint. This is, no doubt, the true form of the var. cernuus. The exceeding slenderness which characterises all the parts of this plant gives it a grace and elegance which few of the Narcissi possess ; consequently it ought to be more generally cultivated. It is perfectly hardy, but does not increase so rapidly as other species, and, where planted out, it ought to have a little carefully-prepared light compost for itself. There are several varieties worthy of record. Var. 1, pulcliellus, in which, while the corona is white, the divi- sions of the perianth are yellow. It is identioal with the variety lnteus, as figured in the Botanical Magazine. Var. 2, cernuus, the flowers pale yellow, conical, and rather more vigorous in general habit of the plant than in the type. This is no doubt the plant figured as triandrus in the Botanical Magazine. Var. 3, nutans, is a much stronger-growing plant, in which the margin of the crown is crenulated, not smooth and entire. As figured in the Botanical Magazine, it has very much the appearance of a hybrid, between the Jonquil and our present species. V. N. montanus of Lindley is a name under which this species is more generally known than that of Salisbury, adopted by Mr. Baker — viz., poculiformis. It is also the N. galanthifolius of Haworth. The bulb is of moderate size; the leaves are broad and flat, four to five in number, and shorter than the scape, which is about a foot high ; flowers, usually produced in pairs, drooping, the upper one on a lengthened pedicel ; the tube, short and cylin. drical ; the divisions of the perianth, oblong, lanceolate, often twisted; the crown, slightly expanded at the mouth, moderately plicate and crenn. late ; stamens, almost sessile, in two series ; the anthers, exserted from the mouth of the tube; the flowers are white, and possess a delicate perfume. Lindley supposes this plant to have been introduced from the East, possibly from Smyrna; but Bakor distinctly says that it is only known in gardens, and White Mountain Narcissus Jan. 2, 1875.] THE GARDEN. Macleay's Narcissus. supposes it to be a hybrid production. Be this as it may, it is a very distinct form, and a free grower, though rarely met with in cultivation. Its fragrance is not the least desirable of its attributes. VI. N. Macleaii of Lindley, figured in the Bot. Register, has bulbs about 1 inch in diameter ; leaves five to six, somewhat shorter than scape, broad, blunt, pointed, and bright green, concave on the face; scape about 1 foot high, bearing one or two partially erect flowers ; the tube cylindrical, white, tinged with green towards the base ; the divisions of a milky-white colour, spreading at right angles to the base of the corona, broad, rather blunt-pointed, and overlapping one another; the crown of a bright yellow, slightly plicate and lobed at the margin ; stamens rising from the middle of the tube, nearly in a single row. Like the last species, this very distinct form is only known in cultivation, there being no record of it as a wild plant. It appears to have some resemblance to the bicolor form of Pseudo Narcissus, but this arises more from a similarity in colour than from its structure, which is quite distinct. It blooms in the early part of April. VII. N. incomparabilis of Curtis, in the Bot. Magazine, is the type of Haworth's genus Queltia, and with it is incorporated his Queltia concolor, Q. ampla of Salisbury, and Q. f cetida of Herbert. Bulb , smaller in size than that of the Daffodil ; leaves, broad, three to four, distinctly keeled below, and glaucous ; scape, compressed, and two. edged, about 15 to 18 inches long, supporting one solitary partially erect flower; pedicel, short, almost included in the large spathe ; ex- panded flower, 2 to 3 inches in diameter ; tube, short in proportion, and cylindrical ; the divisions of the perianth spreading, slightly imbri- cated ; crown, broadly campanulate and undulating, crispate at the mar- gins ; stamens, arranged in one series ; style, exserted beyond the Btamens. Next to the Pseudo Nar- cissus, this — which is well named the Peerless Daffodil — is one of the commonest in cultivation. Its flowers are yellow, with a deeper tint in the crown. It is in stature one of the tallest of our Narcissi, its handsome flowers waving above the leaves, which they exceed in height by 5 or 6 inches. Though recorded by Parkinson, it appears to have been overlooked altogether by Linnaeus. It is an early bloomer, sometimes rivalling in this respect the common Daffodil, and is a native of Spain and France, extending as far even as the Tyrol. Var. 1, incomparabilis plenus, the double form with which the juvenile mind has not unhappily associated the idea of " butter and eggs," to which, indeed, the mixture of the two colours within the corona bears no inapt resemblance. Met with in cultivation almost as frequently as the single. Var. 2, incomparabilis aurantius. — This, though long considered a species, must be looked upon as nothing more than a larger form of the type, with lemon-coloured divisions and crown of a deeper orange. There is a double form of this also, which is known in gardens as the Nonpareil. 3. incomparabilis va/i. albus, still retaining the orange crown, but with milk-white divisions of the perianth. This is a very distinct variety, and much rarer in cultivation than either of the former ; the double form of this is distinguished by the popular garden name of the Orange Phoenix. Whence its origin I am unable to say. VIII. N. odorus of Linnasus. — This is the plant figured in the Botanical Magazine as N. Calathinus, and is also the type on which Haworth founded his genns Phylogyne ; of these he described half- a-dozen species, but they are scarcely even entitled to be called variations, at least as I have grown them. Bulb, egg-shaped ; leaves, three or four, about 12 inches long, and half the width of those of the preceding species, quite concave on the face, and convex at the back, of a bright green colour ; the scape, 12 to 15 inches long, nearly cylindrical, with the slightest angularity at the opposite sides ; flowers in pairs, or sometimes in threes ; the pedicel of the upper Peerless Narcissus. sufficiently long to clear the spathe, that of the lower one short and included ; the tube of the perianth much more slender than that of the previous species ; the divisions ovate lanceolate, slightly overlapping one another at the lower part, and spreading at right angles with the tube ; the crown neither so expanded as that of incomparabilis at the mouth, nor so crispate at the margin, but generally notched into six lobes, sometimes deeply so, at other times very slightly. On this character, which, to say the least of it, is a most inconstant one, varying considerably even in flowers on the same plant, Haworth based the several distinct species before alluded to. The stamens protrude somewhat beyond the tube of the perianth, and the style is exserted. The colour of the flowers is a fine clear yellow, slightly increased in depth in the crown. It produces its sweet-scented blossoms about the middle or end of April. Native specimens give Spain, the South of France, and Dalmatia as recorded habitats of this species. I have, however, always had a strong notion that in it we have a plant so distinctly intermediate between incomparabilis and the sweet-scented Jonquil as almost to point out its origin from this double parentage. It is popularly known as the great Sweet-scented Jonquil, and as such is recorded by Parkinson, and Sweet-scented Narcissus. was cultivated by Miller as the larger Jonquil ; be this as it may, it appears to retain its characters very constantly in cultivation, as our present plant is identical with the somewhat rude figures of the early herbalist. 1. N. odorus var. Icetus, more familiar in cultivation under Haworth's name of Phylogyne Curtisii, is a sort of minor form, or one, indeed, that approaches more nearly, in every respect, even to the shorter-crown, to the Jonquil than the typical species. IX. N. juncifolius, of Reqnien, is synonymous with N. Requienii, of Roemer, also Queltia pusilla, of Herbert. — The name adopted is decidedly the most characteristic. The bulb in this species is exceedingly small, scarcely J inch in diameter ; the leaves are quite cylindrical and tapering, of a bright shining green, closely resembling those of a rush, 5 or 6 inches long, and occurring in threes and fours ; scape, about the same height as the leaves, quite round and very slender ; the flowers are generally two in number, sometimes reduced to one, or more rarely extended to three ; the pedicels very short, so that the flowers appear to spring from the spathe; tube of perianth, cylindrical, very narrow, the divisions freely expanded, broadly obovate, each one terminated by a little project, ing cuspis or point, imbricated; crown, broadly campanulate at the mouth, slightly notched and considerably broader than deep ; stamens, in two series the upper just protrud- ing beyond the mouth of the tube, the lower series some distance down in it, the style included. This species pos- sesses thoroughly well-marked distinguishingcharacters, being one of the smallest and most slender growers of all the Narcissi, its flowers are of a bright yellow throughout, and are produced, according to Baker, about the middle of April, but with us they rarely expand before the first or second week in May, and to my mind its diminished stature gives it a special beauty of its own, enhanced perhaps by the fact that it is an unmistakeable [species. It is a native of Spain and the sonth of France, and, like nearly all the slender growers, appears to Rush-leaved Narcissus. THE GARDEN. [Jan. 2, 1875. require a mixture of peat in the soil as well as an abundance of sand, a good supply of moisture when in growth, and perfect dryness when at rest ; for this purpose a sunny, sheltered corner in the select rockery should be devoted to its culture. N. juncifolius var. gaditanus, I have never seen in cultivation — in it the limb of the perianth is exceedingly short, scarcely as long as the crown ; it is, if I remember rightly, figured by Boissier in his Spanish plants, as a distinct species, under the name of N. gaditanus but is so closely related to our present species that no doubt Mr. Baker is quite justified in inakiEg it a variety. X. N. dubius of Gouan ; synonyms, N. pallidus, Poir and Hermione dubia, Haworth. The bulbs are nearly twice the size of the preceding species ; the leaves are from four to six in number, rather broader, channelled on the inner face, and slightly recurved at the margins, as shown in the small portion of the full-sized leaf in the figure, they are also somewhat glaucous, and 5 to 6 inches long ; the scape rather exceeds the leaves — it is slender, com. pressed, and has two marginal lines well defined ; the flowers are two to six in number, the upper ones elevated on long pedicels, considerably exceed- ing the spathe in length ; the tube, cylindrical, narrow ; the divisions of the perianth broadly ovate, spreading, or slightly reflexed, blunt-pointed, imbricated ; crown, rather con- tracted at the mouth than ex- panded, slightly crenulated along the margin ; stamens almost sessile, and, with the style, just protrude into the base of the corona. I have White-flowered Narcissus, never seen this species in cultivation, being only familiar with it from Moggeridge's excellent figure. The flowers are pure white ; and, were it not for its broader leaves and compressed scape, it might, from its small stature and other general characters, be taken for a variety of juncifolius. Now that good distinct forms of the Narcissi are in such request, and seeing that it grows in the neigh, bonrhood of Nice, no doubt we shall soon have the pleasure of making its personal acquaintance. It is mentioned as growing wild at Nice, as well as at Toulon, Marseilles, and Avignon. Judging from its appearance, I should take it to have a much more vigorous con- stitution than the preceding, and likely to become a more popular plant. Group III.— Small-Crowned. Crown, less than half as long as the divisions of the perianth. This, the third group, comprises eleven species, with many of which we are quite familiar in cultivation. If in the preceding sections, it was found necessary to absorb a host of so-called species, in this, the last section, will be found a still greater array to be dealt with, and a still greater reduction to be made. XI. N. Tazetta of Linnaius, and its varieties, stand as representatives for upwards of forty-six of Haworth's so-called species. Amongst the whole number the difficulty is to say which is the original Tazetta of Linnaeus. The description in his Species Plantarum is both short and indefinite; and, although sufficiently definite to enable us to distinguish one of this exceed, ingly variable section from the other species described by him, still leaves it a matter of great doubt as to which ■was the exact form he had in view. In this Btate of uncertainty it is doubtful whether it would not have been better to have made the expres- sively descriptive name Polyanthus the ropresentativo one ; the more so, as in popular parlance, all theso are known as Polyanthus Narcissi, and as such imported from the Continent in UtHe-mpped Narc.ssus. largo quantities for forcing purposes, for which their freo growth, bright and variable colours, and delicious perfume, render them exceedingly well adapted. The plant, figured under the name Tazetta in tho Hotanieal Magazine, is, I see, referred by Baker to the variety aureus, on account of the bright yellow colour of its flowers, which, as well as one or two other characters, appear to idontify it ^P*Sf ■*m?*£ as the N. aureus of Loiseleur. The bulb of our typical plant is large, 2 inches or more in diameter, covered with chocolate. brown mem- braneous scales ; the leaves four to six in number, broad, flat, bluntly keeled at the back, of a lightish glaucous green ; scape, 12 to 15 inches ; compressed and furnished with two projecting lines; number of flowers variable from four to eight, all sup- ported on pedicels of sufficient length to raise them clear of the large membraneous spathe ; the tube and limb of the perianth are both white, nearly of equal length, the latter divided into broad imbricated lobes, blunt at the point and extended into a short cuspidate process, more or less clearly defined. The divisions some- times slightly reflexed ; the crown forms a shallow cup-like process of bright golden colour, almost entire or very slightly lobed at the margin; tho anthers sessile in a double series, the upper ones just projecting beyond the mouth of the tube. Its habitat extends east- ward through Syria into Cashmere, and even into China and Japan — hence the origin of one of its synonyms, N. orientalis, which is a most appropriate name. The varieties, eight or nine in number, which appear to be sufficiently distinct and constant to require chronicling at our hands, naturally group themselves into three divisions according to colour. The first includes those in which the perianth is white and the corona yellow. The second those in which both perianth and corona are pure white, and the third those in which the flowers are entirely yellow. First Division. N. Tazetta, var. mediterranea, has narrower divisions of the perianth, scarcely at all imbricated, and decidedly more reflexed; the bulb also is smaller than in the typical plant. Var. polyantha, as the name implies, produces a great number of flowers in each scape, varying from eight to twenty; the bulb is nearly 3 inches in diameter ; it is one of the most vigorous growers in the whole group, and we may take that variety, so popular in our Continental importations, known by the title of Grand Monarque, as illustrative of this form. Var. ochroleuca differs from the foregoing in the darker green of its leaves, which are more convex at the back, and not so distinctly keeled. The citron. coloured corona is larger and more entire in its margin, and the colour, as a white, somewhat less pure, henoe the name ochroleuca. Second Division. Var. papyraceas (the Paper- white Narcissus), has broad glaucous leaves, a distinctly ancipitous stem ; tube of the flower, slightly tinged with green ; perianth and corona, a per. fectly pure white, the latter distinctly crenulate and sear, iose at the margin. Var. Panizziana, along . with all the purity of colour possessed by the former, is smaller in all its parts, the divisions of the perianth being separate, and not over, lapping oDe another. This variety I only know from Moggeridge's figure. Pre. suming that the characters are constant, it is a very dis- The Intermediate Narcissus. tinct form. Third Division. Var. italica.— This is the N. italicus of the Botanical Magazine, a plant of slender growth, producing numerous flowers on a scape ; tho divisions of the perianth scarcely imbricated, of a pale yellow, tho colour of the corona being a similar yellow, a little more intensified ; the corona is distinctly six.lobcd. Var. chrysantha, a variety with small yellow flowors, not more than 1 inch in diameter ; the divisions of the perianth imbricated ; the crown a rich golden. yellow, almost entire at tho margin. Var. aureus, has flowers as large as italica, the petals broad and densely imbricated, of a brillant yellow ; the corona almost entire, blight orange-yellow. XII. N. interrnedius of Loiseleur. — Bulbs about an inch in diameter; leaves, three to four, almost cylindrical; of a dark shining green, about the same length as the seapo, which is from 12 to 15 inches long. Tho flowers aro from two to five, on pedicels sullieienty long to protrudo beyond tho spathe. The tube is long and narrow in proportion to tho sizo of the flower ; tho divisions of tho perianth are broadly ovate, narrowing to tho point, and imbri- cated at the base ; of a pale lemon colour ; the crown of a deeper yellow, plaited, and slightly cronnlated ; anthers, almost sesBile. This Jan. 2, 1875.] THE GAKDEN. Tho Slender Narcissus. is frequently cultivated as N. bifrona and N. bicrenata. It is a native of the south of France, Spain, and the Balearic Islands. It gets its title from its apparent close relationship on the one hand to the Tazetta, and on the other to the Jonquil, and combines many of the leading characteristics of both species. If, however, it be a hybrid — aa I strongly suspect — it ia one of Nature's aportB, and enjoys a fairly wide distribution with little or no variation. Mr. Baker records one variety only under the title of N. intermedins radiatus, in which the divisions of the perianth are narrower, and, consequently, less imbricated, and the crown also diatinctly six-lobed. Synonymoua with the Hermione compressa of Haworth. This form I have not myself seen in cultivation. XIII. N. gracilis of Sabine, in the Botanical Register, is no doubt the same plant as that figured in Curtis's Botanical Magazine under the name " tenuior," both of which are very possibly modern names for Wildenow's " angustifolius." His description is, how- ever, so indefinitely brief, that it would be rash to conclude what plant he really did mean. Our plant has exceedingly slender bright green leaves, four to six in number, semi. cylin- drical, with a deep semi-circular channel on the inner aide ; the scape rises above the leaves, is slightly compressed, and ia usually one or two-flowered ; the tube of the perianth is very narrow, the limb dividing into broadly obovate segments, each terminated by a sort of cuspi- date point, the whole over, lapping one another in a marked degree, and of a very full sulphur-yellow ; the crown is cup-shaped, with an expanded margin, slightly plicate and crenulated, of a bright golden colour ; the anthers are almost sessile, arranged in two series. This species, though long in cultivation, and having originated, in the first instance, from Holland — a somewhat suspicions source, by the way — has never yet been found growing wild ; hence, its claims to apecific origin are doubtful. It is more probably a hybrid, with a little of the Jonquil and Poet's Narcissus combined in the leaves, and a similar mixture of these two, with the addition of a little Tazetta blood in the flowers. Be this as it may, it has, through a long series of years, retained a very distinct appearance, and to that fact it is indebted for its specific honours. XIV. N. pachybolbos of Dnrieu, aa the name implies, has a large bulb of from 2 to 3 inches in diameter, covered with brown rough corrugated scales, differing in this respect from all other species ; tho leaves are four in number, glaucescent, flat, about a quarter of an inch wide, slightly keeled at the back ; scape, about a foot high, compressed, and anci- pitous ; tube, pure white, half an inch long above the ovary, expanded portion of the peri- anth little more than half an inch across, the divisions blunt- pointed or nearly rounded, much imbricated, and slightly cuspidate, alao pure white j crown, saucer - ahaped, very shallow, almost entire, and, like all the rest of the flower, per. fectly white ; stamens, in a double series, almost sessile. This ia a modern Algerian species, somewhat closely related to Tazetta, from which it differa chiefly in the exceeding smallness of its flowers, and the rough corrugated character of the outer scales of its bulbs. I am not aware that it is at present in cultivation in this country ; but find a memorandum recording it in a list of Algerian plants sent to the garden at Montpellier some years ago, from which I was in hopes to have obtained it. XV. N. Jonquilla of Linnnoua, is the well-known favourite old Jonquil of our gardens, whose cultivation extend8, in this country, over a period of nearly three centuries. The original name given to it by the Spaniards was Jonquillias, hence the specific title adopted by Linnaeus. Though often confounded in books, especially in old works, with N. juncifolius (already described), it is perfectly diatinct, poa- seasing, as it does, the exceedingly small crown characteristic of this section, along with a more erect growth of foliage and larger development altogether. Those authors who group the species Great-bulbed Narcissus. Common Jonquil. according to the leaves would, of course, be justified in placing these two species in juxtaposition. It may appear almost unnecessary to give a description of a plant so well known as the Jonquil ; but as it is worthy of a figure, which, by tho way, gives a capital idea of the general con- tour of the plant, it must also be considered worthy of a descrip- tion. The bulbs are small, scarcely an inch in diameter, more globose than the generality of the Narcissi heretofore passed in review, and surrounded with a thin dark brown outer scale ; the leaves are usually in pairs, of a deep glossy green, nearly cylindrical with a groove or channel down the face ; scape, rather shorter than the leaves, slender and terete, supporting from two to six blossoms ; the tube is nearly an inch long, the divisions of the perianth are broadly lanceolate and slightly cuspidate, scarcely at all imbricated ; the crown is saucer-shaped, very shallow and slightly crimped at the edge; anthers almost sessile, in two series, the upper just protruding beyond the mouth of the tube. In colour, the flower is throughout all its parts a clear golden-yellow, and possesses a delicate and delicious perfume. It blooma abont the end of April or beginning of May. It is a native of Spain, Prance, Italy, and Dalmatia. In cultivation, it is by no means so vigorous a grower as many of the other Narcissi, and, if left undisturbed for a series of years, is rather apt to dwindle away, the flowers becoming solitary at first, and then - The Greater Jonquil. The Double Jonquil. disappearing altogether. There are three fairly distinct varieties, viz. : — N. Jonquilla plena, the double form which is pretty common in cultivation ; but, under unfavourable conditions of culture, is rather liable to lose its duplex character. N. Jonquilla major. — Here, as the name indicates, all the parts are larger, and the constitution of the plant appears to be altogether more vigorous— a character which it retains with considerable con. stancy. N. Jonquilla minor. — A lesser form than our typical plant, dwarfer in growth — both of foliage and flower-stalks ; the diviaional tubea of the perianth narrower, somewhat reflexed, and slightly twisted. These latter peculiarities appear to me to indicate that it ia something more than a mere weakly form induced by bad culture, to which it has been referred by some authors. XVI. N. biflorus, figured and described by Curtis in one of the early volumes of the Botanical Magazine, ia known as the " Twin- flowered Daffodil," a peculiarity which its expressive specific title at once conveys. I am bound, however, to admit that I have seen it occasionally only one- flowered, and more rarely producing three flowers from a scape. The bulba are of medium size, rather above an inch in diameter ; leaves, about four in number, broad, flat, slightly glaucous, bluntly keeled at the back. The scape is compressed and ancipitous, bearing gene- Twin-flowered Narcissus. 10 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 2, 1875. rally two flowers ; the spathe is long and erect, standing well above the pendent blossoms ; the tube as well as the divisions of the perianth are of a milky-white colour: the latter expanded, flat, ■with their margins slightly undulate ; individually they are broadly obovate, blunt-pointed, and imbricated ; the crown is cup. shaped, deeper than either the preceding or succeeding species, and has a spreading scariosely crispate margin, of a light lemon colour ; stamens, sessile, arranged in one series, and included in the tube of the perianth. Whether this plant is or is not a real original native of Britain, it is scarcely necessary here to discuss ; suffice it to say that Gerard and others of our old writers allude to it as in their time growing abundantly in many of the western counties of England ; so, if it be an introduction, it must be considered as fairly naturalised in its new home. It flowers about the end of April, and is very sweet-scented. On the Continent it is abundantly distributed through France, Switzerland, Italy, and the Tyrol. It is of a strong vigorous constitution, and appears to enjoy a long-continued undis- turbed possession of a locality, being always happiest when growing near the margin of a wood. XVII. N. Poeticus, of Linnaeus.— The Poet's Daffodil, or more readily recognised by its popular appellation, the " Pheasant's- eye Narcissus," a name derived from the beautiful margin of crimson colour that surrounds the corona, is another of the thoroughly naturalised Narcissi of Britain, and certainly the most classical and lovely of the three, that we lay claim to as indigenous plants. I believe there is some doubt whether this is the original poetic " Narcissus," or the N. poetarum of Haworth (literally the Nar- cissus of the poets), but in order to disperse the doubt, if any there be, we roll them both into one, so far as any specific Poet's or Pkeasant's-cye Narcissus. Double Poet's Narcissus. value is concerned, merely recognising that of Haworth as a variation ; nor do our absorptive propensities cease there, as we reduce several others to a similar state of subjection. I hope our friend Mr. Leeds, of Manchester, will look upon our wholesale specific slaughter as endorsed by something more than a mere poetic license — but to our description. The bulbs are about an inch in diameter, the leaves, usually produced in fours, flat and glaucesent, with a blunt keel at the back, possessing less substance than those of the last. The scape is about a foot high, or more when growing in a shady locality; flowers solitary, or very rarely produced in pairs; the pedicel short, so that the flower expands just clear of the spathe ; the tube of the perianth rather better than an inch long ; the divisions are obovate, blunt, and slightly cuspidate, moderately imbricated, of a pure papery.white colour; the crown is saucer.shaped, very shallow, yellowish at the base, much crisped along the edge, the irregular line thus formed being margined with a well-marked line of crimson or scarlet ; tho authers are sessile, arrayed in one series, three of them projecting slightly into the base of the crown. Tho Pheasant's-eyo Narcissus is deservedly a popular plant. The pore white contrasts with the tiny crimson margin so perfectly as to make it almost, amongst flowers, the very type of simple modest beauty, such as, no doubt, Narcissus himself was, ere the sight of his own reflection roused his dormant vanity. Those of my readers who have seen a good bunch of the flowers of this Narcissus (say 100 blooms), all grouped together, intermingled with a few of their own leaves, will, I am sure, agree with me when I say that they possess a charm which only those who have seen can possibly appreciate, and a fragrance, though perhaps too powerful en masse under tho conditions I allude to, yet individually the flowers yield a delicious perfume. Our plant blooms about tho end of April or tho beginning of May, depending, no doubt, a good deal on the character of the season. Besides being naturalised in Britain, it grows abun. dantly through tho south of Europe, from France as far as Greece, The Green-flowered Narcissus. where it is generally found affecting somewhat moistuplaud meadows. As a number of species are included under N. poeticus, so we are obliged to recognise several distinct varieties, and, I am bound to say, very constant varieties too. Var. 1, M. poeticus plenus, the double.flowered form, pretty frequently met with in old-fashioned country gardens, and a great favourite in the old country nosegay. It blooms nearly a fortnight later than the single ; and, for any additional beauty it may acquire in the multiplication of the petals — pure as they may be and are — it loses quite as much in the absence of the crimsoti. margined cup, whose broken fragments may be discovered on a minute investi. gation ; in fact, I take it that, whereas the single represents Narcissus in his simple unconscious beauty, the double form is typical of the ruffled feathers of his conscious vanity, the charm of simplicity having been sacrificed in substituting the questionable one of duplicity. Var. 2, radiifloms. — This is admitted as a distinct species by both Koch and Reichenbach, and is identical with the N. angusti- folius of the Botanical Maga- zine. Its leaves are scarcely more than half the width of the typical plant, and besides being more slender are twisted ; the divisions of the perianth are obovate, that is, wider towards the apex than the base, hence there is, in place of an over- lapping a distinct radiation of the various divisions, whence the name. This plant grows abundantly in the Alps of Central Europe, and possesses a specific claim that we are almost loath to ignore. Var. 3, recurvus. — This is a late-flowering slender form, in which the divisions of the perianth are reflexed and wavy along the mar- gins. It appears to retain its character very constantly under cultivation. Var. 4, Poetarum, the N. Poetarum of Haworth and the poeticus var. grandiflorus of Herbert. This is a much larger form than onr original type, the flower is nearly 3 inches in diameter, and the divisions overlay one another to a very great extent, and are not at all reflexed. This, I believe, is the plant figured in the " English Botany " as our native type of N. poeticus. XVIII. N. viridiflorus of Schousboc, aud the three following species, are all peculiar, in the fact that they are autumnal bloomers. Our present species is figured in the Botanical Magazine, and will always have a much higher claim to botanical than to popular interest. Its bulbs are small, almost round, and furnished with a brown membraneous covering, each producing one or two terete fistulose leaves, tapering to the point ; the scape, slender, terete, one to four-flowered, the spathe rather exceeding the pedicels in length the tube of perianth gradually narrowing from the top of the ovary to the throat, the divisions narrow, reflexed somewhat as to the margins, and slightly incurved at the points; crown, little more than a projecting line, slightly divided into lobes ; anthers, sessile, arrayed in a double series ; the flowers are in all parts of a greenish-yellow colour, and pos- sess the delicate perfume of the Jonquil. Though little known at the present day, this is no modern species, having been cultivated upwards of two centuries ago by Parkinson. It is a native of Morocco, the coast of Barbary, and also of the salt marshy flats between Gibraltar and San Roque on the northern coast. This plant is no doubt synonymous with the Chloraster fissus of Herbert, and C. intiger of Haworth, aud is a distinct aud well-marked species of Narcissus. XIX. N. elegans of Spach is synonymous with Link's autumnalis and Boissier's oxypetalus. The bulb is roundish, about an inch in dia- meter ; the leaves generally solitary, sometimes in pairs, developed, contomporaneonswith the flowers, flattish and channelled above ; scape, very slender, terete, about tho same length as the leaves, carrying Tho Elegant-flowered Narcissus. Jan. 2, 1875.] THE GARDEN. 11 The Late-flowered Narcissus. two to five flowers ; spathe, long, and wide-expanded ; the tube of the perianth slender, of a greenish-white colour ; the divisions pure white, almost linear.lanceolate, expanded horizontally; the crown, small, of a yellowish tint, almost entire as to the margin ; anthers, nearly sessile, arranged in a double series. This species blooms in the month of September and October, and is a native of Italy, Sicily, and Algiers. It is not by any means a common plant in cultivation. I have only bloomed it once, and, were it not for its meagre foliage, it would be very effective, and fully realise the literal meaning of its specific title. It appears, like Calathinus, to have a con. siderable share of individuality as to the circumstances and conditions under which it will grow, and I have a strong suspicion that our climate is not at all adapted to those species of Narcissus that are found on the north African coast, nor is this to be wondered at when we consider how distinct are the climatic conditions of the two localities. XX. N. serotinus of Linnaeus is synonymous with N. deficiens of Herbert. This must not be confounded with the variety of Bulbocodium, to which the name serotinum was given, as our present plant is no only a distinct species, but asingularly anomalous one from the fac ithat its blooms are produced before the appear- ance of the leaves ; hence the specific name deficiens of Herbert was by no means an inappropriate one. The bulbs are small, little more than _ inch in diameter, narrowing upward for a considerable length. The leaves are either solitary or in pairs, very narrow, and tapering to tho point, convex below, and very slightly concave above, fistu. lose as to the lower portion, produced after the scape has died down. The scape is very slender, 9 to 12 inches high, terete, terminated by a large erect spathe, from which one or, more rarely, two flowers are produced. The tube of the perianth is Blender, the divisions are obovately lanceolate, and distinctly acuminate. The corona small, cup-shaped, with an almost entire margin ; the stamens arranged in a double series near the mouth of the tube. The flowers, as in the last species, are white in all their parts. This plant is rarely seen in cultivation, although it appears to have a tolerably wide geographical range, as specimens occur in the herbaria from Spain, Greece, the Barbary States, and Palestine. It flowers late in the autumn, and the fact that the flowers are developed without any foliage must seriously detract from its beauty, although it adds unquestionably to its botanical interest. XXI. N. Brousonetti of Lagasca. — So distinct is this plant from all other Narcissi, that in Gay's Herbarium it is recorded under the new generic title of Aurelia Brousonetti. Roemer, in his Amaryllidaca?, referred it to Chloraster, under the specific title obliteratus, evidently expressive of the total absence of the crown. This is a character of so much real structural importance, that I am almost disposed to recog- nise its claims to a special generic title — the more so, as a glance at the accompanying figure shows that it bears, in the general campanulate character of the entire flower, a very close resemblance to the Amaryllis. Mr. Baker, how- ever, retains it under the old genus ; and I avail myself of his description, as given in his excellent "Monograph." He says: — "The bulb is ovoid, about the size of a hen's egg ; leaves, about four to a scape, 4 to 6 lines broad, about as long at the scape ; scape, about a foot high, four to eight-flowered ; pedicels, 6 to 8 lines long, shorter than the spathe ; tube, 3 to 9 lines long, exclusive of the ovary, under a line thick, greenish at the base, white upwards; divisions oi the limb, sub-campanulated, erect, patent, pure white, obAongly lanceolate, about half an nch long by a quarter of an inch broad, narrowed sud. Brousonett's Narcissus. denly to a bluntish point ; crown, almost entirely confluent with the apex of the tube ; stamens, biseriate, the lower filaments 1J to 2 inches long, their anthers just reaching the top of the tube, the upper filaments, 2£ to 3 inches long, reaching half-way up the divisions." I may observe that, in the above description, as com- pared with the figure, a slight discrepancy occurs in the length of the tube, that of the figure considerably exceeding Mr. Baker's description ; and, further, that no mention is made of a very distinct character which markedly presents itself in the figure, in the gradual widening out of the tube upwards to the base of the divisions of the perianth. Mr. Baker states that the specimen in Gay's Herbarium, at Kew, is the only one they possess, and that it is noted as gathered also at Mogador by Broussonet, a fact which is recorded in its specific title. Let us hope that some of our enthusiastic Narcissi collectors of the present day — such as our friend Mr. Barr — will succeed in introducing this extremely interesting species into general cultivation. XXII. N. eanariensis (The Canary Islands Narcissus). — This is, perhaps, the smallest-flowered and most slender species known, the name resting on a solitary specimen in the Kew Her- barium, collected in the Canary Islands. It is about 2 feet in height, the slender scape bearing from five to eight, or more, flowers. The latter are barely half an inch across, often only one-third of an inch, and of a pure white colour, except the anthers, which are deep orange-yellow ; the perianth segments are ovate-acute, scarcely a third of an inch long, by 1£ to 2 lines broad ; the corona is very small, little more than a raised rim, the margins being nearly entire. This portion of the flower closely resembles the same part in N. elegans or N. serotinus. It is, undoubtedly, a small-flowered form of the Little-cupped Narcissus (N. Tazetta), and must be referred to the white-flowered or N. papyraceus group. Although far from being a showy plant, it is well worth culture, on account of its singularly graceful habit. It has never, so far as I am aware, been introduced to our gardens. General Cultural Remarks. In the preceding descriptions of the several species of Narcissi I have had occasion to allude, in exceptional instances, to certain cultural peculiarities, which have suggested themselves from the conditions under which such species grow in their native habitats. Iu addition to these, I conceive that a few remarks on their general culture will not be out of place. With such I purpose concluding my somewhat lengthy article. Let us, then, by way of preliminary, enquire under what conditions do we generally find them iu Nature. I have already stated that many of the species frequently affect the margin of woods ; others, again, those upland meadows in semi. alpine districts, that during the spring are saturated with moisture from the dissolving snow of a still higher altitude ; and some are at _,, „ ........ home in the salt sandy districts that The Canary Islands Narcissus. , . ., ■ , * ,, _ __.ii. border on the shores north and south of the Mediterranean Sea; more especially do many of the most distinct species affect the north coast of Africa. Though at first sight these several conditions may appear very dissimilar, yet they possess in common one of the most important elements of successful culture. What, then, is this element P It consists of a maximum supply of moisture when the annual growth of foliage and flowers takes place, and a minimum supply at the time when the bulbs are ripened off, by which means a period of perfect rest is secured. These are the all-important points upon which the successful culture of Narcissi, and, indeed, all bulbous plants depend. Let us analyse the three conditions before named, and see in how far each one of these conditions — although originating from different circumstances — compass the cultural axiom I have stated, and which is, my readers will admit, so far established as to come under that definite title. Those Narcissi that grow in woods enjoy during the winter season — when their giant neighbours, the trees, are leafless — a full and abundant supply of moisture ; they are, indeed, then perfect masters of the situation, although pigmies when compared with their summer companions.' On the other hand, often after they have completed their growth the active condition of the early-developed leaves of the trees is continually removing the moisture from the ground, and thus providing the elements of rest — namely, a complete dryness of the soil. This beneficial action of the trees is further supplemented by the continuous accumulation of humus or vegetable soil 12 THE GAEDBN. [Jan. 2, 1875. arising from the annual fall of the leaves, so that they may be said to be not only the protectors but also the nourishers of their vernal companions. If we study for a moment the conditions of those I have described as at home in the sub.alpine meadows, raising their golden or pure white heads, as the case may be, above the green sward, we find more similarity than might at first have been supposed. Here, in spring, the melting snow from the upland regions percolates through the soil, and supplies abundant moisture for the active growth of these, and the whole family of charming spring flowers, with which they are, under such conditions, associated. As summer advances, and the direct rays of an _ uninterrupted sunshine impinges on the mountain sides, the moisture gradually evaporates, leaving scarcely sufficient to support life in the surrounding herbage, which is always greedy to devour such as may fall to its lot from the passing shower, leaving the bulbs of the Narcissi in a state of rest, ready to be again roused into activity when the autumn rains, coupled with the failing energies of general plant life, allow the ground once more to become fairly moistened. Again, as to those which affect the sandy shores or coast- line of Northern Africa, does not Nature, in her alternate rainy and dry season, prepare, after a more direct fashion, all the elements required ? Here, doubtless, the hot arid winds that blow from the Lybian desert rapidly dry up every particle of moisture from the ground ; and, under these conditions, the state of rest may be said to culminate. On this fact, coupled with the presence of certain saline matters which these sands doubtless contain, in all probability hinges the difficulty we experience in the culture of the group of highly interesting species that are met with in Northern Africa ; added to which, the diminished temperature of our northern latitude renders it necessary that they shall be grown in pots, so as to protect them during the winter's frosts. And anyone who has attempted to grow even our own native Narcissi in pots through a series of years will soon find that, after the first year or two, they lose their vigour ; and practice says it is only to be restored by consigning them again to Nature's bosom, under whose fostering care their failing strength will soon become re-established. We must, therefore, admit that our non-suecess is in all probability attributable rather to our non- appreciation of the conditions to which Nature has adapted them rather than to any inherent constitutional weakness that they possess. Having thus pointed out the analogy that exists between these circumstances, however diverse they may appear at first sight. Let me ask, do we take Nature for our guide in our ordinary garden culture ? I fear the reply must be in the negative— at least more generally is this the case than otherwise. We will take the ordinary conditions under which collections of these plants are found, and the first thing we will probably find is, that they are grouped together in a bed or border by themselves. Now this, I admit, is highly desirable, as enabling a ready comparison of the several species or varieties one with another; but, in addition to this grouping, that law and order which is, I also admit, an essential in tidy gardening, demands that no weeds bo permitted to invade their sacred allotment, and, consequently, the hoe and rake are in con- tinuous requisition. Now, for a moment, compare this with Nature's treatment ; Bhe supplies them with abundant associates in the shape of the greensward or other forms of vegetation— that, full of active life during summer, take up the superabundant moisture ; we care- fully remove the same, and thus deprive our Narcissus bed of those elements essential to perfect and sustained rest; the result is that in this, as well, indeed, as in the infringement of any of Nature's laws, we gradually lower the constitutional vigour of the plants. Let, therefore, where they are thus isolated, a substitute be found for the weeds in the shape of Mignonette, associated with a few of our gaily-coloured annuals, and, further, let these be cleared off not later than the middlo of September, a nico dressing of well-rotted leaf soil being applied and forked in, thus giving the soil time to absorb a fair sharo of heat from the autumn sun, and to bo sweetonod by the atmospheric influence. Whero they are grown in a mixed border, usually speaking, they will find them. selves in close proximity to some vigorous rooting plant, which will answer all the purposes required. The question may hero bo askod, why not lift the bulbs in early summer and replant in the antumn ? Such is the practice with some growers, but I am loath to recom. mend it for two reasons : the first is, that such a process iB foreign to the Book of Nature ; the second is, that there is always a liability of lifting some too soon, and of neglecting to plant others until too late, as well as the difficulty of choosing tho happy medium between dryness and dampness in the arrangements mado for storing the bulbs away. All these things considered, I prefer leaving them to Nature — merely lifting and replanting them about every fourth or fifth year — and be sure that in doing so you anticipate tho very earliest stage of root formation, as, if left, as it too frequently is, to November or Decembor, you are sure to affect the bloom for the next season. I ought to Btate that when thi3 lifting process takes place, before replanting, the whole of the bed should be well-dressed with old manure, and thoroughly dug or trenched ; if the latter, let the ground be moderately well trodden over to firm it, as the roots of all plants — and more especially of our Daffodils — like to fight their way against a pretty solid lesistance ; and, remember, that the popular notion of lightness in the texture of the soil being beneficial to root development does not always prove true. Amongst this class of Endogenous plants rarely do we find the roots inclined to branch ; nay, I might go so far as to say they are devoid of the power of branching, and, as a result, when even the growing point becomes injured, the root not only ceases to elongate, but really ceases to be of any value towards the sustentation of the plant, as decay sets in and the entire root soon disappears. When, therefore, in removal, more than one-half of these delicate feeding processes are virtually destroyed — which is sure to be the case if they are developed even to the length of half an inch — it will not be at all surprising that the plants receive such a severe shock as to cause blind and imper. feet flowers. Speaking of the flowers coming blind reminds me that this may originate from another source as well. The beautiful old. fashioned double Pheasant's-eye Narcissus, a favourite with every one, alike for its purity and its perfume, is one especially liable to this when it has been grown for many years in the same locality. This arises from sheer exhaustion of the soil, and may easily be guarded against by a winter's dressing of nice short rich manure, or by a few copious waterings with diluted liquid manure during the spring growth. The former I prefer, as it answers in the double capacity of protector and stimulant. The roots of all these plants are in a vigorously active state during the entire winter. Hence, it is advisable that they should have their stimulating dose early, and that it should be gentle and constant, not spas- modic. If the roots find not the nourishment in the ground, they will draw on the magazine stored in the bulb for the support of the leaves and bloom. And even after this appropriation the roots are unable, through very feebleness, to make good the loss when they are called upon to fulfil the more severe task. Admitting that, under special circumstances, this grouping arrangement must be carried out, I am far from considering it the one I would recommend for general adoption. There is no place where the Daffodil does better or looks more lovely than when springing from the Grass, there, if he nods his head beneath the weight of the accumulated moisture of a succession of spring showers, no taint of Mother Earth tarnishes his purity, nay, rather, he rises again with returning sunshine fresher and brighter for his bath. On our trim-kept lawns, where the very first growth of the green sward calls into existence the noisy rattle of the mowing-machine, groups of Narcissi are not, by any means, happy ; but let us ramble beyond the precincts of culture and cast a glance at a group in the open field, or adjacent to some shrubbery where the scythe but once a year steps in to Nature's assistance, and what do we find ? Why, what else but congruity and harmony ? The leaves rise, green to the tip, from a mass of mingled Moss and Grass, interspersed with the bright brown foliage of tho Beech or the paler Oak, whose various tints lend a contrast to the fresh glaucous hue of the Daffodils ; but, besides adding to the beauty and harmony of the jiicture, these adjuncts, combined, havo fulfilled the purpose of admirably protecting tho buds in their early growth, and now combine to support the Blender leaves against the mutilating influence of the wind, and, further, in the decay of the withered Grass and leaves below, are assisting to restore the elements of fertilisation to the soil. Ear be it from me, however, to say that I would wish to banish so loveable a flower as the Narcissus from the precincts of the trim-kept garden. Rather let me show where the most fitting locations may be found for it. The margins of shrubberies are amongst these; .there are always little indentations — natural irregularities arising from the difference in growth of adjacent shrubs — whero the mowing-machine does not come ; corners, wa may say, still sacred to tho scythe. In those, with admirable offect, may our groups of Narcissi bo placed, whero respect can be paid to thoir leafage, so that it be not cut over before it naturally fades away. Do not obtrudo them on the lawn in scattered patches, where they but marr the quiet repose of the green sward. In the wild garden, whether it be a dell formed by Nature or by the hand of man, whether it be a rootery or a rockery, or a combination of all together our Narcissi will be found at home. There will be presented all the elomonts of successful culture, and there they will find happy associates in the wood Forget-me-nots, the variegated Dead Nettle, the Wall Crosses, the Aubrietias, and a host of similar plants, not to mention the bright moss-covered nooks and crannies rich in the verdant colour of their delicate tracery ; here then may a collection of Narcissi be maintained in a natural condition, each sort grouped by itself, with an unobtrusive number, by which, on reference to your note book, the name and history of each variety may be obtained. Jan. 2, 1875.] THE GAEDBN. 13 ASPECTS OF VEGETATION. OLIVE TEEES NEAR THE MEDITERRANEAN. All who visit Nice, Mentone, and the Genoese Riviera, for the first time, are struck with the luxuriant aspect of the Olive groves in these districts compared with those in the more exposed parts of Italy, Spain, and the south of France. With the small proprietors of Olive groves situated along the sheltered shores of the Mediterranean, the Olive harvest is perhaps the busiest period of the year, not even excepting the time when the Orange and Lemon orchards are stripped of their golden fruit. Our illustration represents some of those old patriarchal Olive trees that may here and there be met with on the rocky outskirts of the more densely planted groves near the shore. In the south of France (says Dr. Bennett) the Olive tree, however fertile, is a miserable object. It is gene- rally treated as a pollard, is small and dwarfish, and looks much like a mutilated dust-covered Willow. As soon, how- longevity of the Olive tree, in a congenial climate like that of Mentions, may indeed be said to be indefinite. There are Olive trees still alive at Monaco, at the Cap Martin, and elsewhere, which are supposed to be coeval with the Roman Empire. It is a slow-growing tree, and forms cartloads of hard roots, which fill and cover the ground where it stands. When, after several hundred years, the trunk decays, the bark remains alive. As the decay progresses the tree splits, as it were, into two, three, or more sections. The bark twists and curls round each of these decayed sections, and unites on the other side. Then, instead of the old tree, we have, in its place, two, three, or more apparently separate, although, in reality, all growing from the same root. When these in turn die, new shoots spring up from the old roots, and thus the life of the tree is indefinitely prolonged. The old Olive groves are, from this cause, indescribably singular and interesting, presenting, on every side, evidences of hoary old age. All the stages of growth above described may be witnessed Olive trees on the shores of the Mediterranean. ever, as the Esterel Mountains are passed and Cannes is reached, we enter on a different climate, more protected in winter, and more suited to its growth. It is allowed to grow as a forest tree, and at once assumes a dignity and grandeur which quite surprises those who have only seen the stunted specimens of Provence. The Olive tree is only destroyed by a frost of 15° or 16° Fahr., so that it is not injured or killed on the Riviera by exceptional winters, as are the delicate Lemon trees. But the young shoots and the fruit are frozen and irremediably injured when the thermometer falls 6° or 7° below the freezing point. No frost, however, to which this region is exposed, even once in a century, cau injure the tree, so that it goes on growing indefinitely, and attains its natural period of longevity, as do with us the trees that are natives of our country — the Birch, the Beech, the Scotch Fir, and the Oak. Like them, it resists the terrible cold of exceptional years, such as the years 1860-61, and re-appears in spring hale and vigorous, when whole armies of apparently naturalised foreigners have succumbed. The within the space of a few yards ; and the partially decayed, partially split, gnarled, twisted, curved trunks are picturesque in the extreme. The healthy full-grown Olive tree is really very beautiful. It is often as large as a fine old Oak, but with fewer limbs and a more sparse foliage. In the variety of the Olive tree generally cultivated on the Riviera, the terminal extremity of the branches hangs down, so as to give it the characteristic appearance of a Weeping Ash or Willow. The predominance of Olive groves gives a peculiar character to the Mentonian amphitheatre and to the Riviera in general. The Olive tree, which is a native of Asia Minor or of Palestine, is the tree of the Holy Land, and is constantly mentioned in Scripture. Thus its presence, as the principal feature of the surrounding vegetation, imparts an Eastern charm to the place. The branches of the Olive tree are not numerous ; they spring from the trunk near the ground, or rather the trunk generally divides into two or three branches. The Olive berry ripens in the autumn, becomes black, and begins to fall off the tree in December and January, 14 THE GAEDBN. [Jan. 2, 1875. THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. By THOMAS BAINES. The Potato. — Since 1845, when the disease first broke out, the Potato has been the subject of more discussion than probably any other vegetable in cultivation, yet the practical results gained by such discussions have been infinitesimally small. There are, how. ever, one or two cultural matters, which, if they do not directly prevent disease, at least tend to avert its worst effects. Foremost among these is a selection of such kinds as, from their early maturity, are ready to take up before the disease usually sets in ; and nest, and scarcely less important, is the preparation of the tubers for planting. Instead of allowing seed Potatoes to remain in clamps, or to lay thickly in heaps in a dark place until the time has arrived for putting them in the ground, soon after the commence, ment of the year, the earliest sorts should be placed in a single layer in shallow boxes in a place where they will receive sufficient light to cause the sprouts, which are then beginning to form, to grow stout and strong, and of such a nature as will, to great extent, reduce their liability to break off at planting time. This treatment prevents the weakening effects of the tubers forming long weak sprouts, that are certain to be destroyed in placing them in the ground, and it effects the all-important object of giving them at least three weeks' start in advance of such as are planted without any previous preparation. The best varieties for general cultivation are of Kidneys — Myatt's Ashleaf, Veitch's Improved Ashleaf, and Lee's Hammersmith Kidney. The last is early, a heavy cropper, and not surpassed in quality by any early Potato in existence. Of Round kinds — I would recommend Early Oxford, York Regent, and, for the latest, Paterson's Victoria. Any of the first-named Kidneys, and the above three Round varieties, are enough for all practical purposes, while in quality they are immeasurably before the soapy high-priced American sorts. The boxes used for placing the tubers in should not be above 6 inches deep, and enough dry straw should be at hand for protection in case of severe frost. The driest part of the vegetable-ground should be selected for Potatoes, and if the soil be light and poor, some manure should be wheeled on to it when the ground is frozen. This may consist of old hot-bed manure, in which a considerable amount of leaves has been used, or decayed vegetable matter from the refuse heap, which should have a place in or near every amateur's garden, and to which all vegetable tops, leaves, and Grass mowings should be conveyed, as also summer weeds that have not been allowed to grow until seed has been produced by them. In a well-managed garden they ought never to be allowed to stand until they have reached that condition, but, if such a stage has been reached, these, and weeds of a perennial character, prnnings and hedge clippings, should all bo charred (not burned), and the charcoal added to the refuse heap, which, if well and tidily managed, instead of being offensive to the eye, will become a valu- able adjunct to the garden ; the cultivator should, as far as possible, return to the soil all that it has produced, so as not to impair its fertility. If in a neighbourhood where lime can be had at moderate cost, a liberal addition of it to the refuse heap will greatly improve its quality, as well as destroy slugs and their eggs. Peas. — When the ground is not frozen, and a dry moderately sheltered piece exists, a fovv early Peas, consisting of Sangster's No. 1 or William the 1st, should be sown. The latter is a very free cropper, and both are good for early work. They should be sown in rows 3 feet apart, in moderately rich soil. If at all poor, dig in some manure. The ground for the rows should be opened about 2 inches deep, but the Beed should bo covered with 4 inches of soil, conse- quently a slight ridge will be the result, which will assist in throwing off rain. If tho ground is at all wet or retentive, Peas will be much benefited by the covering being composed of old potting soil or similar dry material. Scatter over the surface of tho rows a sprinkling of fine coal-ashes, which will prevent slugs from infesting the soil, in which they frequently do early Peas serious mischief. Theso early crops should bo sown consideraly thicker than further on in the season, so as to make up for loss by birds and other enemies. The seed of theso early sorts is much smaller than that of the late varieties ; consequently it goes further in sowing — a quart will sow a row of about 10 yards. Where danger is apprehended from mice, an excellent plan is to get some Gorse, clip it with the garden shears to about an inch in length, and scattor it an inch thick over the seed in the rows before tho soil is put over them; this also mitigates the effects of severe frost should such occur so as to penetrate tho ground deeply before the seed has vegetated, and by which sometimes it is injured. Seakale and Rhubarb. — If not already done, Seakalo and Rhubarb roots should be put in for forcing. It is much moro economical to take theso roots up for forcing than to force them where they grow. Seakale will do well on a slight hot.bed mado of leaves, which are not liable to get too hot. On such a bed placo a small frame, and put into it 6 or 8 inches of ordinary garden soil then put in the roots a couple of inches apart. Instead of the glazed light on the top of the frame, use a wooden shutter, over which place enough old mats or litter to completely exclude light. Rhubarb may be forced in the same way, but it will require a deeper box to allow its growing higher than the Seakale. Rhubarb and Seakale so forced will be found much better flavoured than such as is grown in a Mushroom.house, where a quantity of stable manure is fermenting, aDd which frequently imparts such a rank taste as to make it unfit to eat. Glass Structures. — Indoors continual watchfulness will be required, as a few hours negligence may easily destroy the work of a season. When there is any appearance of frost it is safe practice to put on a little fire sufficiently early in the evening to get some heat into the pipes in good time. This, amongst ordinary green-house plants, will be rather beneficial than otherwise, provided the tem- perature does not rise above 45°, which should be about the heat maintained in such a structure through the night ; to be thus pre- pared is much better and more economical in the way of fuel than hurrying on fire late in the night, when extremes of insufficient or overheating are too often the result. Should frost continue, be careful that the plants are not placed too near the pipes, or they will get their roots dried by the heat ; this is a matter of frequent occurrence where open trellis-work shelves exist over the pipes, even if at considerable distance from them, the heat in its upright course rushing right to the plants, unduly exciting growth, and having a most unnatural influence upon the roots. Cinerarias and Calceolarias, more than most things, cannot bear being placed in such a situation ; a low pit, if such exist, is the best for these plants, where they can stand on a bed of coal ashes, with a hot- water pipe round it to exclude frost ; if a place of this description is at hand, they will make satisfactory progress, and maintain their large bottom leaves in a healthy state. Cinerarias are most useful winter- flowering subjects, but do not well bear heat to bring them on, nor is it necessary ; for, if the seeds were sown in proper time, so as to get the plants sufficiently forward, they will come in without using a higher temperature than indicated for the general stock. The deliciously-scented Daphne indica should find a place in every amateur's collection, keeping it during the winter at the warmest end of the house, but now, as always, being careful not to over- water it on account of the aversion this plant has to being too wet at the roots. If a few plants of the useful, hardy, white-flowering shrub, Deutzia gracilis, are placed at the warmest end of the house they will come on gradually into flower, and be very useful either as decorative subjects or for cut flowers. A few pot Roses may also be similarly treated, but, before they are brought in, see that they are quite free from insects. The continuous flowering Cyclamens are indispensable for winter-blooming ; they should be well supplied with water, if they are allowed to suffer for want of it they will not succeed ; keep them near the glass, if on a shelf not far from the roof all the better. If, in the amateur's garden, there is a house devoted to Vine culture, and the crop is all cleared, the sooner the Vines are pruned the better, as nothing is gained by deferring the operation ; close pruning to a single eye makes the neatest work, but in the amateur's Vinery it will be safer to leave a couple of eyes to each spur ; after they are pruned they should at once be painted over with the usual dressing, composed of clay, with a little sulphur, soot, and soft-Boap or Gishurst compound, mixed with water, so as to form a thick paint, with which they should be coated all over — previous to which the loose outside bark should be stripped off, but only such as is loose, not scraping them to the extent some- times practised, and which does serious injury (no doubt with the intention of removing the eggs of red spider or thrips), and is as un- natural as anything that could be imagined. After they are finished they may be tied across the front of the house, especially if young Vines that have not fully occupied the space they are intended to fill, in which case they will require their points keeping tied low down to induce them to break back ; if old Vines they may bo tied up in their places. GARDENING FOR THE WEEK. Trees and Shrubs. TnE present wintry weather will have put a stop to all planting ; but advantage should be taken of it to prepare stakes for steadying and supporting any plants that have beon recently transplanted, or may require such assistance. Such a lull in active operations will afford time for maturing plans, preparing lists of plants wanted, and for getting ready suitable labels, &c, bo that planting may bo pushed on the moment a favourable change in the weather takes place. The labour set free from planting may now be profitably employed in trenching and preparing large holes, if the ground has not become Jan. 2, 1875.] THE GAEDBN. 1 K too frost-bound. The snow will, in a great measure, have prevented this ; but care should be taken to clear this off the surface before opening the trench, for, if buried in the soil, it is a long time thawing, and considerably reduces its temperature. In severe weather, in the absence of snow as a protector, a load or two of straw-rubbish should be kept at hand to throw over the surface of the ground to be trenched, as it will prevent frost penetrating, and the work of trenching can then be carried on without interruption. In trenching, great care should be taken not to allow any vegetable matter that is not decomposed to become mixed up with the soil, as it is sure to generate Fungus. If it be intended to break up and reform old plantations, all the debris should be carefully raked from the surface before disturbing the soil, for, if buried, it is sure to injure the health of the plant. Leaves and dead sticks are generally harmless so long as they lie on the surface, as they absorb and retain too much moisture in this position for Fungus to generate ; it is only when buried and moderately dry that the conditions are favourable for its formation. On the surface of the soil the fallen leaves of most plants are a positive benefit, as they gradually decompose, and convey to the soil fresh material for the roots to feed on. Besides the manurial matter they carry back, they are invaluable as conservators of moisture, as they form an excellent mulching, and effectually prevent the escape of moisture. It must be a dry time indeed, if moisture cannot be found under even a slight layer of leaves. Nature does not al low even a fallen leaf or a blade of dead Grass to be lost. Each has its new productive functions to perform ; and, finally, in their decay, form food for the nourishment of fresh organisms. At this late season it is better to defer planting all kinds of evergreens till April, unless the plants to be removed are of small size, and are to be transferred to very sheltered situations. The last few mild winters have induced many to continue planting evergreens much too late, and if this has been the case this season, the chances are that many will be killed, for there is every prospect now of a severe season, and the turn of the year will most likely usher in even colder weather. All recently trans- planted stuff should, therefore, receive a heavy mulching, so as to prevent the ground about the roots from becoming frozen. In planting very large deciduous trees, the stems and main branches should be bound up, either with bands of hay or Moss, but the latter is preferable, as it is neater and more retentive of moisture. If the trees are to be planted in exposed situations, this protection will be found of the greatest assistance in keeping the bark plump till root action takes place. Many large trees are lost after removal through neglect of this, as the bark becomes dry and contracted, thus closing the channels that should be kept open for the free circulation of sap. If this contraction of bark is allowed to take place, it is one of tho greatest checks a tree can receive, and the growth is never so free or satisfactory as would have been the ease if the bark had been kept fresh and plump. The necessity for this extra labour will depend much on the size of the tree to be operated on, and the character of the situation it is intended it should occupy, but if large, or at all valuable, it is better to give a little time and atten- tion to this than to run any risk of failure. Plants of questionable hardiness should at once receive protection by shaking a quantity of dry leaves round their base. These should be afterwards covered with Laurel branches or Brakes, to prevent them being blown away. Numbers of shrubs and plants, that would otherwise be killed or greatly injured, will stand severe winters if protected in this way. Take advantage of the first favourable change in the weather to push on the planting of all kinds of deciduous trees and shrubs, for if frost again sets in, it may throw this work too far into the new year. If any trees are received from the nurseries during frosty weather, they should be placed in a close damp shed till a thaw takes place, a measure that will be found much better than exposing them by attempting to plant, or lay in. For ornamental planting, few deciduous trees excel the Taxodium distichum, as it is always beautiful, from the first opening of the bud to the fall of the leaf. Its light, elegant, pale green foliage equals in beauty many of the Fern fronds, and might be used to great advantage in lieu of them for dressing cut flowers. In the autumn nothing can surpass the warmth of colour the foliage of this tree assumes, and even at this late season the trees are not yet bare. For rich autumnal leaf colouring, the Liquidamber is one of the most striking, and should have a place in every shrubbery, where, associated with variegated Hollies, &c, it will show off its lovely hues of rich colouring most effectually. The different varieties of Rhus are invaluable for the foreground, especially the lovely R. Cotinus, with its richly-coloured silky plumes, and laciniata, which makes an effective plant for the sub-tropical garden. Ampelopsis japonica is another desirable plant on account of its richly coloured leaves, and A. Veitchii is valuable for covering walls. If planted alternately with white variegated Ivy, the effect is most pleasing, as the Ivy forms a very pretty setting for the red leaves of the Ampelopsis.— J. Sheppakd, Wolver. stone Park. The Flower Garden and Pleasure Grounds. While the ground remains covered with snow, or in a frost-bound condition, little can, of course, be done in these departments, unless it be the pushing forward, as much as possible, such operations as involve the removal of soil or the wheeling of gravel, compost, and manure; and this can generally be performed more expeditiously during hard frost than when the surface of the soil is soft. Where it is intended to^ remove overgrown or superfluous trees from the lawDS or elsewhere, this may be done during such weather as we are experiencing at the present time. Shrubberies may also bo thinned out by the removal of unnecessary plants, but the pruning of the remaining specimens, particularly that of evergreens, should be deferred until March. And when the weather is such as to stop the progress of all operations in the open air, attend to the prepara- tion of stakes, labels, and Birch besoms, Ac, all of which will bo found useful as the season advances. Many bulbs and hardy herbaceous plants cultivated in the open border disappear altogether during winter, and their crowns are not infrequently injured by being trampled upon, unless they are all distinctly labelled ; but where this is not considered necessary, a stout oak peg should be fixed in the centre of each group or patch of bulbs or herbaceous plants of any kind which disappears, and this peg should stand some 4 or 5 inches above the surface of the soil, and will serve to indicate the whereabouts of the plants, and prevent them being injured when the borders are dug or pointed over early in spring. Hardy annuals in pots intended to be planted out early, with the view of producing an early display, should have, for the present, the protection of a pit or frame, and are not unlikely to be injured by slugs or snails, to prevent which they should be frequently examined and occasionally dusted with quick-lime, if found to bo necessary. Protect also such winter-flowering plants as the Chi- monanthus fragrans, Jasminum nudiflorum, and the Christmas Rose, which will now be in full bloom if protected by a frame or a hand- glass. Continue carefully to protect bedding plants of all sorts from frost, and, whenever the state of the weather will permit, give abundance of air to dry up damp, &c. ; but, at the same time, avoid placing the plants in a cold draught, and do not give water until they are really dry, when enough should be given to thoroughly moisten the soil.— P. Gkieve, CuJford, Bimj St. Edmunds. Orchids. Keep the temperature of the Orchid-house as equable as possible. Angracnms, Dendrobium moniliforme, and the different varieties of Calanthe, more especially the latter, will now be in fine bloom, and the flowers must be carefully treated, so as not to allow them to get wet, or they spot. This is one of the most valuable plants for pro- viding autumn flowers, and possesses tho advantage of associating well with any others, and lasting well when cut, if attended to in the matter of water. Do not allow the plants to shrivel too much for want of water, more especially Vandas of the suavis and tricolor sections, or they will lose their under leaves, which, in addition to injuring the plants, destroys their appearance. Keep Coelogyne cris- tata at the end of the house, whero there is most moisture in the atmo- sphere, and supply it sufficiently with water at the roots. Do not, however, allow any to fall on the advancing flower-spikes, as they are impatient of stagnant moisture. A temperature of from 50° to 55° at night will be enough for Mexican plants. Of these place such as are coming into flower at the warmest end of the house. They will include Cypripedium insigne and vennstum and the varieties of barbatum, Laslia anceps and autumnalis, Zygopetalums, and Borne Oncidiums. These will be found invaluable for cutting at a season when flowers are most acceptable. In fact many of these old- fashioned winter-flowering Orchids do not receive the attention they deserve, but have been thrust aside for novelties possessing much less merit. Sponge over all the plants, so as to keep tho foliage clean, and remove scale and other insects, which can only be kept under by continuous attention. — B. Indoor Fruit Department. In starting Vines, the chief point to be kept in view is a moderately strong bottom-heat to stimulate the roots into action. To ensure this, therefore, form new beds of fermenting material both inside and out on the top of the roots of Vines newly started ; make these beds of sufficient thickness to raise and retain a heat of 90°. The inside bed will greatly assist in keeping np the temperature to 55°, which is quite high enough for the first week or two. When a portion of the fermenting material is turned over daily, it gives off a nice soft moisture, which is very beneficial to the Vines during hard firing. Cover the outsido bed with glass sashes or boards, to keep out wet and wind, thus economising the heat. A.dd fresh linings to 16 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 2, 18?5. outside beds made up a month or two ago, should they need such attention. The root temperature must, on no account, be allowed to decrease at this stage of growth, or a severe check will be the result. The fermenting material may now be removed from the inside of houses which were started in October or on the 1st of November. Tie in the young shoots as they require support ; any which have grown in an upright manner should only be brought at first half way into their proper positions, but at the second tying with strong matting, bring them into their right places. Those who propagate Vines in pots put in the eyes about this time. Select the eyes from the best ripened prunings preserved for that purpose, cut the wood straight through directly above the eye, leaving about li- inch of it underneath the eye, cat off slantingly, and make an incision opposite the eye, and the operation is complete. Three-inch pots should now be prepared for their reception ; these should be dry and quite clean. A few small crocks should be put in for drainage, and the rest of the space should be filled up with good loam. A hole should then be made in the centre of the soil, and filled with silver sand, and the eye should be firmly pressed into position with the hand until the notch made opposite the eye is covered. This will leave the eye only above the soil into which roots will be pushed from the notch. The whole should be gently watered, and then set in some cool spot, from which frost is excluded, for a month before being placed in heat. Pines. — Another batch of Queen Pines should now be replunged and given increased heat. It will be some time before the bottom, heat gets fully up after plunging them, so that although the Pines first plunged are in a bottom-heat of 90°, those plunged now will be some- what inured to the increased warmth before the heat has risen to that height about them. The plunging material should be made sufficiently firm to stand up to the rims of the pots until the fruit is ripe. If not previously done, every plant should be thoroughly watered with manure-water immediately the fruit is visible. Smooth Cayenne, Black Jamaica, and Charlotte Rothschild, are the best winter kinds ; and, where winter fruit is desired, these kinds should be grown in quantities. Where too many are ripe at once, if the fruits are cut and laid in an air-tight box, they will keep perfectly well for six weeks. Boxes, lined with zinc, are made for this purpose, and should be about every place, as they are useful for preserving other kinds of fruit. When Pines are cut, the old stumps, to which suckers are attached, should be allowed, if possible, to remain where they are for a couple of months, as the present is a very unfavourable time for the propagation of such stock. — J. Mum. Hardy Fruit. This is the very best season for the planting of all kinds of hardy fruit, and, if weather permits, the sooner it is done the better, but on no account attempt to plant when the ground is in a sodden condi- tion. Do not plant too deeply — if a young fruit tree does not thrive, I always trace the cause to deep planting ; as a rule, they should never be planted deeper than they originally were in the nursery. After planting, mulch with either rotten dung or litter. This mulching is of the greatest importance, for, in the first place, it protects the roots from drying winds and frost; and, secondly, it manures the ground. The pruning of Apples, Pears, Plums, and Cherries should be done as opportunity offers ; and, in the case of strong growers, it may bo necessary to root-prune to get them into a fruitful condition, which operation is best performed by entirely lifting and replanting trees of a manageable size, and in the case of larger ones, digging out a trench a reasonable distance from their stems, and gradually working round them, taking care to cut the tap roots especially. For the benefit of those readers who may be intending to plant fruit trees, I give a list of the best half-dozen kinds of Apples : — Blenheim Orange, Wellington, Alfriston, Ribston Pippin, Cox's Orange Pippin, and Cellini ; of Pears, Mario Louise, Duchess d'Angouleme, Josephine do Malines, Winter Nelis, Gansel's Bergamot, and Glou Morceau ; of Plums, Jefferson, Green Gage, Golicn Drop, Orleans, Belgian Purple, and Victoria; of Cherries, May Duke, Late Duko, Bigarcau Napoleon, Governor Wood, Black Heart, and Morello. I recommend delay in pruning Gooseberries and Currants, as, frequently, the birds make such havoc of them when tho buds first begin to swell and immediately after severe weather, that it is better to wait till food is more plontiful for the birds than lose tho entire crop by early pruning. Strawberry beds that were trimmed and dug in the autumn ought now, if not previously done, to be well manured, leaving tho dung on tho surface of the ground as a protection to the plants. Draining, levelling, soil carting, and otherwise preparing ground intended for fruit trees, may bo done when the ground is not in a fit Btate for planting, and advantage should thus be taken to forward all operations of this nature in anticipation of the busy time approaching. — W. Wildsmito, Heckfield, Hants. Kitchen Garden. The seedsmen's catalogues, now coming in, remind one that the Booner all seed-orders are made out and sent in the better • and upon thiB subject I should like to say a few words. In the first place, it does not pay to buy cheap seeds. Inferior seeds have more to do with the production of inferior crops than is generally supposed. The seeds from one grower may be equal in germinating power to those of another, and yet, from the absence of care in selection, they will produce an inferior crop. Breed always tells in seeds, in fact, in anything, and it is impossible for a seed-grower who takes pains in selecting his stock to sell as cheaply as the one who does not trouble himself about the matter, and whose only criterion of quality is their germinating power. In ordering the seeds for the coming year, as a rule, reliance should principally be placed upon old well-tried varieties ; at the same time, in order to keep pace with the times, a few of the novelties annually introduced, may be tried. I do not attach very much importance to high-sounding testimonials ; and one thing is certain, a good many of the new Or so-called improved kinds of vegetables are not heard of after the first year or two, which would not be the case if they were endowed with all the good qualities vouched for by their sponsors. It may be said that _ gardeners, in their selection of the occupants of the kitchen garden are very conservative, and I admit there may be some truth in the statement. Fashion has not yet laid her encroaching hand upon the vegetable department, except it may be to line the central walk with flowers ; but I never yet knew a gardener, however old-fashioned in his ideas, who would not gladly avail himself of any really improved variety of vegetable ; but when a man has been deceived a few times he becomes suspicious, and waits for a new introduction to be thoroughly tested by others before he commits himself. The wealthy amateur is the seedman's best customer for novelties, and fortunately that numerous and enthusiastic class is being constantly reinforced. Take advantage of the present wintry weather to finish wheeling the manure to uncropped land ; place it in large heaps in the centre of the plots, to avoid lo3S from the drying influence of the atmosphere, and do not level it down till j ust before the land is in a fit condition for digging. Prepare fresh stable manure and leaves for making hot-beds by thoroughly shaking and mixing the material together. Where leaves cannot be readily obtained, it will be a very great advantage in making hot-beds if cow or pig. manure can be bad to mix with the stable-manure. Horse-manure is hot and fiery, and the addition to it of about one-third, or even a fourth, of its bulk from the cow-shed or pig-stye — which is of a cooler nature — will cause the heat to be more steady and permanent. Where hot-beda are depended on for the first early Cucumbers, a bed large enough for a one-light frame should be put up now for raising the young plants, should no other means exist for bringing them forward. In cold situations, where it was not thought desirable to sow Peas in autumn in the open air, preparations should shortly be made for fetching up lost time, by sowing some under glass for planting out when the weather becomes more favourable. They may either be sown in 48-sized pots or in troughs, which any unskilled workman, who has a few rough boards, can put together, or they may be sown in fibry squares of turf, hollowed out in the centre. It is not advisable to start them in too high a temperature, as there is plenty of time without undue forcing. A frame placed on a bed of leaves, where they can be near the glass, will do well, or, if more convenient, they may be placed in any house where forcing has just commenced. Early Long-pod or Dwarf Cluster Beans may be sown rather thickly in boxes, and brought on gently and strongly under glass, to bo planted out singly on a warm border when the weather is suitable. Early Potatoes for hot-bed planting may now be started in boxes or pots, according to the demand and conveniences for growing them. — E. Hobday. Cottagers' Gardens. Kitchen garden operations must now be regulated by the state of the weather, as the cultivation of land, especially when of a heavy character, or in a saturated or frozen condition, would be posi- tively injurious, advantage should be taken of hard frosts for wheeling manure, soils, &c, to wherever they may be required. Pre- pare Pea sticks, stakes, labels, &c, during rough weather, in order that no delay may occur when the season for cropping haB arrived. Fruit trees or bushes, infested with insects, should now be divested of Lichen and loose bark, and painted with Gishurst com- pound or other insect-destroying mixture. Mulch the roots of freshly-plauted trees with rough litter. As regards flowers, Primulas and Cyclamens should now form conspicuous objects in windows, and a few of the earliest bulbs should be gradually brought forward to succeed them. Christmas Roses, now coming into bloom, will be benefited by receiving some slight protection from unfavourable weather, as their pure white blossoms are easily injured. — J. G. Jan. 2, 1875.] THE GAEDEN. 17 "WATSON'S PORTABLE BOILERS. TnESE are extremely useful contrivances, either for heating halla, libraries, small conservatories, or greenhouses. One of the greatest drawbacks to heating by means of stoves is the dryness which their use occasions ; but in the stove of which the accompanying is an illustration especial provision is made to avoid this evil, the action of the fire being more than counterbalanced by the moisture given off by an evaporating pan placed above the water Jacket boiler. The hot water from the boiler escapes by a small flow-pipe, about an inch in diameter, into the pan above, and, as it cools, it descends again by a return pipe into the boiler, an arrangement by means of which a constant circulation is kept up. Thus all the advantages of hot. water heating are obtained on a small scale and at a minimum oost, both as regards the apparatus and the fuel consumed. There are two or three outlets and hot-water pipes can be attached if desirable, so as to distribute the heat more regularly in plant-houses ; or these can be plugged, and the boiler then answers every purpose of an evaporating stove. The portability of the apparatus, the short time in which it can be fixed ready for work, and its moderate price recommend it to all who desire a heating apparatus of this kind. It would be useful in any establishment in case of accidents with the Watson's Portable Boiler. ordinary boilers and pipes, and as these generally occur when the greatest pressure is upon them, that is during sharp weather, serious damage is often done before they can be repaired. Salt for Roads and Drives in Frosty Weather.— It is the practice on the North Metropolitan Tramway, and I have myself tried it on other roads with great success, to sprinkle rough salt upon the surface of the roads and in the grooves of the tramway whenever, through snow or frost, the roads became dangerous or difficult. The effect is that within twenty minutes of the applica- tion the snow or frost thaws, and horses travel over the roads without roughing and without difficulty. The cost of this process, compared with the loss usually sustained by accident, delay, and the cost of roughing horses, is not worth consideration. One ton of salt costs from 22s. to 29s.; it will, if judiciously applied, thaw about 2 miles of road, and will serve from two to three days of moderate frost. I am aware it is alleged that the salt destroys the adhesiveness of the road surface when a natural thaw comes, but I am also informed by practical men that the same effect upon the roads always follows from the break-up of frost ; but, admitting that some slight damage is done, surely the immense advantage gained from the roads being kept open is more than an equivalent for any expense that such damage would entail.— A. G. Church, Secretary, London General Omnibus Company, in Times. THE FRUIT GARDEN. GRAPE VINE TREATMENT AFTER PLANTING. Leaving- the subject of temperature to be fully discussed when we come to describe the second year's treatment, which will embrace a complete season's growth, I may only remark here, that in the daily temperature, the maximum should be reckoned at noon and the minimum at sunrise, and go on to speak of newly planted Vines from eyes, which, in my last chapter, we left enjoying a night temperature of 65°, and 80° by day. These figures are only given as averages, however. Supposing the temperature of the Vinery to stand at 85° at mid-day ,] my practice would be to reduce air gradually and shut the house up to its maximum temperature about two o'clock p.m., sustaining it by fire heat if needful, and allowing it to subside gradually to 75° at dusk, to 65° about ten o'clock', and to 60° in the morning, or even to 55° in cold weather, rather than resort to hard firing. This practice is not trouble- some ; a little experience soon enables one to judge how much fire-heat is necessary to counterbalance the out-door tempera- ture under all circumstances. As the Vines progress, and the days lengthen, the night and day temperatures should be raised by degrees until about June or July, when the minimum night temperature should not fall much below 70°, and the day temperature should be run up to 80° in dull weather, and to 85° or 90° with sun-heat ; shutting up the house on such occasions 5° above these figures, but making some abatement for the night temperature at the same time if the nights are cold. For such varieties as the Muscat of Alexandria and Barbarossa a temperature 5° higher all over will be required. These temperatures should be maintained until the canes get brown and hard to their extremities, which will be towards August or September, according to circumstances. After this the temperature should decline at the ascending ratio, till fire-heat is discontinued and the house thrown open altogether. Temperature of the Border. If the border is heated by any of the means before described under the head of " Bottom-heat," the temperature should be maintained during the growing season at about the mean tem- perature of the Vinery at all stages ; thus, supposing the minimum night temperature of the Vinery at starting time to be 40°, and the maximum day 75°, the mean would be 57°, omitting fractions. The mean, however, should not be' exceeded ; it is better to be under than above it. Where hot- water pipes are employed they should be used with the greatest caution, and air drains should be opened only during the warmest part of the day, and when the temperature is con- siderably above the temperature of the border. Borders under fermenting materials should always be tested by thermometer 18 inches below the surface of the soil, or where the roots are known to be, and, when the heat is too violent, treading the litter well with the feet will always lessen the fermentation quickly, while turning and mixing the materials, and, when necessary, adding to them, will increase the heat. Airing. Closely connected with temperature is the question of airinc. Air, less or more, should be admitted to the Vinery at all times, except when the weather is so cold as to necessitate closed ventilators in order to maintain the required tempera- ture. "When hot air ventilators are employed, it will be easy to admit fresh air in the coldest weather, but these will not be sufficient on sunny days, and the ordinary back and front shutters will have to be worked. Beginning in the morninf with the rising thermometer, all good practitioners make it a rule to admit air little by little, at both back and front, until the maximum amount is reached with the noonday tempera- ture; after which the air is reduced by degrees, until the house will bear shutting up at or above the maximum tem- perature as before directed, but the ventilators should never be closed altogether ; about a ± inch of air should be left on along the top and bottom. To make sure of this, when the Vineries are in charge of different individuals, I have a piece of thin lath tacked on temporarily uuder each shutter to pre- vent it closing entirely. Of course, the scale cannot be adjusted so nicely as is here supposed, but the principle indi- 18 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 2, 1875. cated should be held in view. Quick rises and falls of the temperature, or sudden gusts of air rushing in against the foliage, are evils that will surely tell upon the Vines in the long run. In warm weather, such as we sometimes experience in June and July, it is advisable to leave the ventilators wide open day and night. Shutting up should only be resorted to to economise sun-heat, but when the temperature can be kept up without such aid it is in every way better. Damping. This is a term generally used to denote a practice necessi- tated by the use of artificial heat ; though at one time damping and steaming was carried to such an extreme in the culture of the Grape, that one might suppose it was absolutely essential, and that the Vine delighted in an atmosphere in a continual state of saturation ; whereas, exactly the opposite is the case — a balmy, dry atmosphere, with abundance of moisture at the root, is probably the most favourable condition that could be conceived for the Vine ; but under glass, and the influence of fire heat, an artificial state of aridity is produced, especially in sunny weather, which is very trying to the tender foliage of the Vine, and the only preventative is damping, in a discretionary way. For instance, most gardeners know how difficult it is to steer clear of danger on those occasions, when the pipes have been made hot in the prospect of a dull day, and the sun suddenly and unexpectedly shines out in a forenoon, accompanied, perhaps, with a cold, dry, shrivelling wind, which makes it dangerous to open the ventilators more than a few inches ; while, on the other hand, danger is equally imminent from a too high temperature, unless air be given. In such a dilemma damping is the safeguard, for a liberal sprinkling of the inside borders and paths with water, which, quickly evaporates and loads the atmosphere with . moisture, reduces the temperature and lessens the necessity of giving more air. For similar reasons, damping is also necessary when a Vinery is shut up at a high temperature in the after- noon. A moist atmosphere arrests the excessive perspiration from the foliage, which would otherwise take place in a high and dry temperature, resulting in what is usually called burning, or scorching, of the leaves. Damping, in fact, should always be resorted to in droughty weather, especially if the leaves of the Vines are observed to be flagging under a bright sun, or to sustain the necessary degree of moisture in the air when hard firing is required. The evaporating troughs on the pipes may always be kept full, as they will only give off moisture according to the heat of the pipes, and consequently supplying the greatest quantity of moisture when it is most needed. Syringing the Vines should never be practised with a free circulation of air, but only when the house is closed, otherwise the effects will be destructive. As far as possible, soft water should be used for syringing. If the rain water from the Vineries is collected into tanks inside the Vinery, it will afford a supply for this purpose ; and the slightly sooty character which water so collected always has will be no disadvantage to the Vines if the water is allowed to settle before using it ; soot is disagreeable to the insects which infest the Vine. In dull weather, when little ventilation can be afforded, damping in any form should be avoided, as it only induces a watery growth and tender foliage, which flags before the first bright sunshine. "Watering. Inside borders want a good deal of attention in watering when the Vines are growing, and it is chiefly a question of judgment. With young Vines, whose roots have not extended far into the border, each plant must be watered separately at first, and the whole border should be kept in a sweet and moist condition. The roots rapidly extend themselves, how- ever, when the Vines have fairly started into growth ; it is then better to deluge the border thoroughly with water at the temperature of the Vinery, whenever watering is supposed to be at all needful ; it is hardly possible to overdo it in this respect when the border is well drained. Training of the Permanent Vines. Formerly it was the custom to stop young Vines after they had grown about half-way up the rafter, and to restrict their growth generally, from this period until the end of tho season, in the belief that a stronger cane was thereby secured ; but more recent experience has shown conclusively that the con- trary is the case — that the greater the amount of wood and foliage the Vines are allowed to carry, the greater their vigour will be — i.e., a Vine which is allowed to make a cane 20 feet long the first year, will be twice as strong as one that is allowed to make only 10 feet of growth. Consequently, it has become the practice with many noted Grape growers, to permit young Vines from eyes to develop both leaders and laterals to their fullest extent ; and with one-year-old Vines to let nearly every bud which breaks grow to the top of the house — in fact, to ramble as much as they please ; and at the end of the season, to cut the leading canes down to the bottom wire, and the others close back to the stem. The second year, the accumulated energy thus secured is directed into one or two rods only, and canes of great vigour are the result, and these are again cut down to within 2 or 3 feet of the previous year's cut, and so on, till the Vines have covered the roof. There can be no question whatever of the results of this system ; but the advantages are more apparent than real, if early return is an object, and not merely sensational bunches at the end of four or five years. The explanation is simple. When this extreme extension system is followed no super- numeraries can be grown, for the permanent Vines occupy the whole of the space. For instance, I have seen a Vinery nearly 100 feet long and 20 feet wide, in which the Vines were trained in this way, and the whole roof, a perfect thicket of wood and foliage, affording a remarkable example of the growth and vigour which can be got up in a few months ; but it was the fourth or fifth year before even a partial crop of fruit was secured, whereas such a house should have accommodated at least forty supernumeraries, not includ- ing the back wall, without interfering with a moderate but sufficient development of the permanent Vines ; and, at the most moderate estimate, at least 400 lb. weight of Grapes should have been gathered the year after planting from the supernumeraries. For these reasons I practise and advocate a medium system of extension with young Vines. I train only one rod from each Vine, which is allowed to grow to the top of the house, when it is stopped, and the side laterals also are stopped at every joint. This single rod permits of sufficient development of wood and foliage to ensure as vigorous a cane as anyone can desire, without encroaching on the supernume- raries, whose welfare are just as important while they are wanted as the others. At the end of the season the canes are cut back to within 2 feet of the bottom wire if they are vigorous (weak growths should be cut down to the bottom again). This ends the treatment of the permanent Vines the first year. Supernumerary Vines. As these are only intended to remain till the permanent Vines come fairly into a bearing state, they must be treated with an eye to fruiting the year after planting, and for a few years following. The front row of plants which, it will be recollected, were planted between the permanent Vines, should be allowed to grow about 7 or 8 feet up the wires, and then stopped ; the laterals also must be pinched regularly at every joint ; the middle row will catch the wires at this point, and they must also be stopped when they have got nearly to the top of the rafters, and otherwise treated in the same manner. The little winter pruning required by these consists Jn simply cutting the laterals close back to the permanent buds — which should, at the end of the season, be hard and plump — and in shortening back each cane to within 6 feet or so of the point where they first catch the wires. J. S. (To be continued.) ROOT-PRUNING PEACH TREES. Tiiere often seems to be considerable difference of opinion as to the practice of root-pruning Peach trees, some assorting that there is no necessity to have recourse to tho practice, provided young trees are properly plantod in a border adapted to the requirements of the Peach, and every attention of course paid to the regulation of growth, the balance of sap in the tree, and all the necessary pinch- ing and tying, as woll aa to the cropping of trees in time to prevent a too luxuriant growth. No doubt there are conditions of Peach Jan. 2, 1875.] THE GARDEN. 19 culture under which there is little necessity for root-pruning. But, unfortunately, it does not always happen that young trees have their wants supplied, as in the case here referred to. I have before my eyes a number of young trees which have been planted for some years, and yet have never borne anything beyond a chance sample of fruit now and then. The aspect — an east one — is not the best; the border was made of materials calculated to produce an immense quantity of roots, which, in their turn, sent forth vigorous spongy-green wood, to ramble at its pleasure all the summer, and to be cut out the following winter — and so on year after year. The material in which those trees were planted consisted of peaty soil, leaf mould, and rotten manure, the very thing to save one the trouble of gathering much fruit. In the month of June last, when those trees came under our charge, we commenced pruning, which was done at three different times. All strong fruitless wood was cnt out, and only that which was likely to be of use encouraged. So diligent were we in the matter of regulating and pinching, that we shall never need to apply the knife in a single instance this winter. It was six weeks before we managed to get the border thoroughly drenched. The neglect, on this score, would account for the long pointed puny buds, which the trees made in previous years. Borders, composed of such light materials as I have named, require any amount of water, more especially in a case like ours, where the tree roots are all inside, and the house a lean-to with a sharp pitch. During the end of the summer the numbers of suckers which pushed up indicated something wrong below, and it was, therefore, decided to mend the old border or make a new one altogether, to root- prune and re-plant. The trees realised every expectation when we got to the bottom, and found the long knotty roots which no soil but leaf mould will produce ; and, strange to say, the only two trees in the houpe which had any fruit whatever on them, were nearly overrun with Fungus. In fact, the whole border, when opened, smelt like a Mushroom-bed. In lifting the trees, care was taken to have a close house, and to dew the roots and tops with a fine syringe. I fancy when these roots get hold of a pure loam instead of leaf- mould, they will, if we may judge from appearances, repay us for our labour by a moderate crop next year. I wish, by these remarks, to convey to the minds of those who hesitate to try root-pruning, that, in my belief, it is the only effectual remedy in cases such as I have mentioned. Peach trees, that are twenty years old, will bear lifting if the operation be carefully carried out, and they are not subjected to very early forcing the following year. I had two large trees of Royal George lifted in the early Peach-house at Eoby Hall, which were started to have ripe fruit by the 20th of May ; the conse. quence was, that I gathered dozens of unusually large fruit, for that variety, from trees which, for three consecutive years, had not borne half-a-dozen Peaches each. The practice was also adopted in a late house with the same beneficial results, and so pleased is my successor, Mr. Lindsay, with the change for the better in the trees, that he has given them all a thorough overhaul, and now very wisely intends giving them a comparative rest, which will have the effect of invigorating the trees, and must eventually prove of much benefit. W. Hinds. Otterspool Gardens, Liverpool. HYBRIDISATION OF THE MONUKKA AND BLACK HAMBURGH GRAPES.* The Black Monukka is a Grape believed to be of Indian origin, which was received from the late Mr. Johnson, gardener at Hampton Court, and distributed by the Royal Horticultural Society. It is a Grape of great peculiarity and of great excellence. It is of exceedingly robust growth, and a somewhat shy bearer. The bunches produced are, however, very large— from 12 to 20 inches or more in length, and of a regular tapering form. The berries are small, long-ovate, inclining to be conical like an Acorn, measuring J inch in length and f inch in diameter. In colour it approaches black when well ripened, but is more frequently of a dull reddish-brown; it has a thin coatin" of bloom. The skin is thin, adhering to the pulp, which is firm fleshy, and not melting, yet very tender and full of juice. It contains no perfect seeds, only one — or at most two — half-formed, and these being soft like the pulp are eaten with it, as well as the skins. The flavour is rich and sweet, of the most agreeable character, not in any way peculiar, yet refreshing and pleasant to the palate. The Black Monukka is termed a seedless Grape. It is so, however, only so far as the seeds remain immature. The seeds are formed, yet from some cause they are not perfected. This failing may perhaps in some measure account for the smallness of the berry. The peculiarity may possibly be due to defective setting. Were the seeds perfected * By A. F Barron, in The Journal of the Royal Horticultural Society, and fully.grown, as in other Grapes, the berries would perhaps be larger. Whether this is so or not, however, to alter its peculiar character in this respect would certainly not improve it. There is something very novel and quite pleasing in eating Grapes without being troubled with either skins or seeds. With the view of being able to introduce some of the desirable qualities of the Black Monukka into our most approved sorts, or of raising a good large-berried Grape of a seedless character, such as a seedless Black Hamburgh, it was proposed to try the effect of hybridisation. The necessary and proper precautions being taken to ensure success, a few flowers each of the Black Hamburgh, Muscat of Alexandria, and Royal Muscadine were fertilised successfully with pollen from the Black Monukka. Unfortunately, in thinning the Grapes the few fertilised berries of the two latter were cut off and so lost. But from the Black Hamburgh some twenty-five seeds were secured. The reverse of all these crosses was tried also, viz., using the Black Monukka as the female, but without success. Several half-formed seeds were secured from the Black Monukka, more fnlly-developed than in their usual normal condition, but they refused to vegetate. From the twenty-five seeds of the cross between the Black Monukka as the male and the Black Hamburgh as the female, twenty -two plants have been raised, fifteen of which have fruited. The first noticeable fact is the foliage. The leaves and shoots of the whole set more closely resemble that of the male parent than the female. The leaves are all deeply lobed and sharply serrated, like the Black Monukka, the leaf-stalks red and hairy, as well as the young shoots. The plants bear no resemblance whatever to the Black Hamburgh ; by the foliage they would be grouped as four distinct varieties. In the fruit they are widely different of the fifteen which have fruited ; eight of them have the berries white, and five have the berries black ; six have long or ovate berries, and seven have the berries round, part of each being black and part white. Three are very early, and two are very late, and, with one exception, they are all small. Two of them have small berries, resembling the Black Hamburgh (female parent), with the leaves of the Black Monukka ; one resembles the Black Monnkka in the shape and appearance of tho berries, but it is a coarse late Grape. Two of them have proved seedless, like the Black Monukka ; but the berries are round, and the one white the other black. In no case is there an exact reproduction of either the male or the female parent, the majority of the results being decidedly inferior to either. A few have peculiarities which entitle them to further trial, but the greater part are quite useless. Best way of Furnishing Walls with Pear Trees. — " Enquirer " would probably find Pear trees trained cordon fashion, either vertical or oblique, produce fruit sooner than any others that he could fasten to his wall. It would, I think, be a bad use to make of a south wall to plant pyramids in front of it. I have not tried cordons, but I have obtained a speedy and abundant return from trees on the Quince stock, trained to a west wall, in the form of a five-tined fork without its handle, and set upright with the [joints upwards. Such trees can be had from most nurserymen who are fruit-tree growers. The sorts that have done best with me, so trained, are Louise Bonne, Beurre d'Aremberg, Passe Colmar, Beurre Diel, Beurre d'Amanlis, Soldat d'Esperin, and Doyenne Boussoch. These, when I got them, were maidens on the Quince stock, some from the Chilwell nurseries near Nottingham, and some from Saw- bridgeworth. A Glou Morceau on Quince roots, planted at the same time and trained in the same way, took a longer time than the others to arrive at a bearing state ; and although the tree looked healthy, and now produces an average crop, the first Pears that appeared were neither large nor good. A standard Glou Morceau on the Pear stock, planted here about five and twenty years ago, attained a large size before it yielded fruit. It has lately produced heavy crops. If I had a south wall, and wished to cover it with Pear trees, I should plant at the required distances trees trained in the form of "Verrier's Palmetto, with flat standards or riders between each, to give fruit for a few years, to be reduced gradually, and finally to be removed when the Palmettes had completed their growth. — B. S. [Mr. Tillery advises our correspondent to add to his list of Pear trees Josephine de Malines. At Welbeck this variety is unequalled as regards its rich aromatic flavour, and it generally keeps well from February to May. Planting Pyramid Pear trees in the way mentioned on purpose to get a crop the second year would, he has no doubt, be successful, but the trees would lookout of place so close to the wall. It would be better to plant the wall with diagonally. trained Cordon Pear trees on the Quince stock, which, by summer pinching, would yield a good crop the second or third year. They might be planted as close together as 16 or 18 inches, and would produce larger and finer fruit, and a better crop than could be obtained by any other system of training.] 20 THE GAKDEN. [Jan. 2, 1875. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. BROAD BEANS. The following is Mr. Barron's report on Broad Beans grown at Chis. wick in 1874, as given in the " Journal of the Royal Horticultural Society:" — The collection, composed of about fifty packets (a great portion being duplicates), was sown on March 6, in very deeply-trenched fresh soil, in lines 3 feet apart. Notwithstanding the dry season, the Beans continued to grow well, and kept free from blights. The trial was in all respects a satisfactory one. The committee awarded two first-class certificates, and reduced the number of varieties to twenty. A further trial is necessary to test their hardiness during winter. For this purpose the seed should be sown in the month of November. The following is a list of the donors : — Messrs. James Carter & Co., Holborn ; Mr. J. Douglas, Loxford Hall ; Messrs. J. Hardy, Bures, Essex ; Minier, Nash, & Nash j Nutting & Sons, Veitch & Sons ; MM. Vilmorin, Paris; Messrs. Waite, Burnell, & Co. 1. Long-pod, Early Long-pod.— Plant of a very free habit of growth ; branching at the ground, with from three to five stems, about 2 feet G inches high. Pods, 7 inches long, with three to five medium-sized Beans. Ripe seed, dull fawn colour. Prolific. A general good cropper, and of good quality. Early. 2. Hang-down Long-pod, Matchless Long-pod, Monarch Long-pod, Feve de Marais grosse Ordinaire. — A somewhat larger and more prolific variety of the Long-pod, having the full- grown pods much inclined downwards. Ripe seed, dull fawn. 3. Carter's Mammoth Long-pod. — A very superior variety of the Long.pod, with very large long pods. First-class certificate. 4. Green Long-pod. — Differing from the ordinary Long-pod by the colour of the Beans, which are, when fit for use, bright green. Pods, from 4 to 5 inches long, mostly erect, cotaining from three to four Beans. Ripe Seed, dull green. 5. Feve Julienne. — Plant, robust, 2 feet 6 inches high. Pods, about 4 inches long, narrow, containing about three small Beans. Ripe seed, small, dull grey. Worthless. 6. Feve Julienne Verte. — A green-seeded variety of the pre- ceding. Comes into use two days later than Long.pod. 7. Mazagan, Early Mazagan, Hative de Mazagan. — Plant, vigorous, with three to five stems, 3 feet 9 inches high. Pods, produced abundantly, erect or upright, 4 inches loug, with three to four Bmall Beans. Comes into use five days later than Long-pod, and is the latest of all. 8. Hardy's Pedigree 'Windsor. — Plant of robust growth, 2 feet G inches high. Pods, produced abundantly, generally curved downwards like the Long-pods, from 5 to 6 inches long, with three large broad Beans. This seems to be an intermediate variety between the Long-pods and Broad Windsor Beans, and will probably be found to be the Old Toker Bean. An excellent sort. 9. "Windsor, Broad "Windsor, Improved Broad "Windsor, Westbury Prize, Taylor's Windsor.— Plant, of full and robust growth, branched. Pods, produced abundantly, much curved down- wards, 4 to 6 inches long, about li inch broad at the lower end, with two to three very large broad Beans. Ripe seed, large, dull fawn colour. This is a much-esteemed sort, and of most excellent quality. 10. Thick "Windsor. — This is distinct from the preceding, in having thicker seed in a ripe state. 11. Harlington Windsor, Loxford "Windsor, Broad Windsor (Veitch). — This is a well.selected and somewhat improved form of the Broad Windsor, producing rather larger pods. 12. Green "Windsor. — This is distinguished from the Broad Windsor by having the seeds green. It is, on this account, greatly preferred by some. Ripe seed, large, dull green. 13. Seville Long-pod, Feve de Seville (Vilmorin). — Plant, moderately robust, 2 feet high ; does not branch so much as other sorts. Pods, very long, 7 to 8 inches, rather sparingly produced, with about six Beans of about the same size as the Long.pods ; they hang down so much as almost to rest on the ground. Ripe seed, large, dull fawn colour. This is the earliest and longest-podded of all the Broad Beans. Is fit to gather three days before the Long-pods, and eight days before the Mazagan. It is of good quulity. First- class certificate. 14. Feve Violette grosse.— Plant of robust growth. Pods 6 inches long, with three to four fair-sized Beans. It is fit for uso three days later than the Long-pod, tho young Beans being of a pale red colour. Excellent quality. Ripe seed rather long, of a dull violet colour. 15. White Blossom.— Plant robust, 2 feet 9 inches high. Blossom white. Pods 4 inches long, with threo fair-sized Beans. Ripe seed small black. This is five days later than tho Long-pod. A moderate bearer. 16. Red Blossom. — Plant robust, with three to five stems, 2 feet 6 inches high. Blossom deep dark red, with black lip ; extremely ornamental. Pods 4 inches long, with three fair-sized Beans. Ripe seed is spotted dingy brown. Fit to gather same time as Long.pod. It is much subject to sport, the colour of the flowers varying from deep red to pale dingy brown and nearly black. A moderate bearer. 17. Feve tres naine Rouge.— Plant robust, branching much, about 12 inches high. Blossom of the ordinary character. Pods 4 inches long with three small Beans. When fit for use tinged red. Comes into use the same time as the Long-pod. The ripe seed small, dingy red. An inferior sort. Moderate cropper. 18. White Fan, Royal Dwarf Fan.— Plant robust, much branched, 18 inches high. A most profuse bearer. Pods produced in erect clusters from the surface of the ground, from 3 to 4 inches long, with about four fair-sized Beans. Ripe seed small, dingy fawn colour. Fit for use two days after Long-pod. A very excellent variety and good quality. 19. Beck's Dwarf Green Gem.— Plant robust, but particu. larly neat and compact ; much branched, 1 foot high. Pods small, produced in erect cluster, abundant, about 3 inches long, with three small Beans of a fine green colour. Ripe seed small, green. Fit for use one day after Long-pod. A most desirable variety to cultivate, the crop secured from these dwarf Beans being quite equal to that from the tall forms. 20. Naine Hative. — A very inferior form of the preceding. LIST OP THE BEST VEGETABLES. Brussels Sprouts. — Scrymger's Giant and Roseherry. Beet. — Henderson's Pine-apnie, Dell's Crimson, and Waterloo. Beans. — Dwarf Cluster, Early Longpod, Green Windsor, and Taylor's Broad Windsor. — French : Osborn's Forcing, Newington Wonder, Canadian Wonder, and Negro Long-pod. — Scarlet Runners and Eclipse. Kale. — Cottager's and Green Curled or Scotch. Broccoli.— Snow's Winter, Cooling's Matchless, Miller's Dwarf, Knight's Protecting, Chappel's Cream, and Cattel's Eclipse. Cauliflowers. — Early London, Veitch's Autumn Giant, and Walcheren. Celery. — Ivery's Pink, Sandringham White, Williams's Matchless Red, and Incomparable White. Cabbage. — Enfield Market, Cocoa Nut, Atkins's Matchless, and Red Dutch. Savoy. — Dwarf Green and Early Ulm. Carrots. — French Horn, James's Intermediate, and Altrincham. Cucumbers. — Telegraph and Wood's Improved Ridge. Endive. — Green Curled and Batavian. Cos Lettuce. — Dummick's White Victoria, Bath (black-seeded), London White, and Incomparable. Cabbage Lettuce.— Tom Thumb, All the Year Round, Neapolitan, and Hammersmith. Leeks. — Musselburgh and Ajton Castle Giant. Melons. — Gilbert's Victory of Bath and Shah of Persia. The latter is a scarlet-fleshed variety, raised by Mr. Gilbert, and sent out last season. It is of medium size ; and, as regards flavour, first-rate. Onions. — White Spanish, Brown Globe, James' Keeping ; and for autumn sowing, White Lisbon, White Tripoli, and Giant Rocco. Peas. — Ringleader or First-crop, William the First, Dickson's First and Best ; Huntingdonian, an improved Champion of England, sent out some years ago ; McLean's Best of All, G. F. Wilson, Ne Plu Ultra, and British Queen. Radish. — French Breakfast, an Olive-shaped variety, good for all seasons ; Wood's Early Frame ; Black Spanish, for autumn sowing ; White and Red Turnip. Parsnips. — Hollow-crowned and Student. Tomato. — Trophy and Earley's Defiance. Spinach. — Round for summer, and Prickly for winter. Turnip. — Strap-leaved Stone, very early ; Red American Stone ; Orange Jelly and Chirk Castle Black Stone, for standing the winter. Vegetable Marrow. — Moore's Vegetable Cream, and Long White. Capsicums. — Long Red, Long Yellow, and Red Chili. Cress. — Plain and Curled. Mustard.— White. Garnishing Plants.— Parsley : Myatt's Curled ; Variegated Kale, and Curled-leaved Mallow. Herbs and Sundries. — Chervil, Basil, Savory, Marjoram, Thyme, Cardoon, Rampion, Salsafy, Scorzonera, Seakale, Asparagus, and Chicory. Of course, many other excellent varieties might be added to the above list, but those I have enumerated are all good, and may bo obtained anywhere at reasonable prices. E. Hobday. King Koffee Savoy.— Like Mr. Gilbert, I had a packet of this new dwarf Savoy wont mo by Mr. Harrison, of Leicester, to prove for him. X had a quantity of it planted in a plot by the side of Tom Thumb Savoy, and found that it was nearly as dwarf as that variety, and that it had larger heads. Since tho frost has set in I have had some of it boiled, and find it to be excellent in flavour, the taBte being something like that of Brussels Sprouts. Owing to its growing so near the ground and taking up so little room in the rows, it is a variety that I can highly recommend both for hardiness and general excellence. —William Tilleey, WeUtecl; Jan. 1875.] THE GAKDBN. 21 THE GARDEN IN THE HOUSE. DISEASES IN EOOM PLANTS. The normal deep green colour of the leaves in plants is a sign of good health, but a yellowish or whitish tinge, instead of the usual shade, is a sure sign of disease. Unsuitable soil, stag- nant moisture, insufficient nutriment, and too much or too little light, all induce this change of colour. In its early stages this disease can be easily cured by the removal of the causes which produce it. When the first signs of discolora- tion are observed (and they appear first on the leaves of the youngest shoots), the plant should be taken out of the pot in order to examine the condition of the roots. If these are all healthy and fill the balls well, then the cause must be looked for in an insufficient supply of food, or it may be that the plant receives too much or too little light. Want of food may be remedied by shifting the plant into a larger pot, by growing it in richer soil, or by watering with liquid manure. Plants accustomed to grow under the influence of full sunshine produce leaves of the deepest green ; while the same plants, if grown in a shady position, generally have leaves of a lighter colour, becoming almost whitish in comparative darkness. On the other hand, plants which naturally grow in shady places, such as Ferns and Selaginellas, if removed into bright sun- shine, will have the lively green of their leaves changed into a yellowish hue. Even underwood shrubs often lose their lively green in full sunshine, and plants grown in pots are more liable to suffer in this respect than strong specimens grown in the open air, which are better able to withstand the full force of the sun. Whether too much or too little light be the cause of discoloration in foliage, it can be easily remedied by shift- ing the position of the plant. If, when a plant is taken out of the pot, the ball is not well filbd with roots, and if the young roots have not a fresh healthy appearance, then the discoloration will have been produced by unsuitable soil, or by an excess of moisture. In this case, the first thing to be observed, when the ball is not well filled with roots, is to water cautiously, and to see that the drainage outlet is not choked up, and, if no new roots have pushed into the soil around the ball, the soil must be changed at once. When the soil is suitable and free, and the drainage good, pot-plants do not so easily suffer from excessive watering, but when this is not the case, even in a slight degree, discoloration is almost sure to ensue. Therefore, when the leaves begin to turn yellow in plants which have made but few new roots in the ball, the drainage must be looked after, and the saucer, if any, under the pot removed, or the water, at least, poured out of it after each watering. The plants should, also, not be watered before it is ascertained that the ball is perfectly dry. There are many plants which thrive in almost any soil, and others which, when placed in unsuitable soils, never send out a single young root beyond the old ball. Of the latter kind are Camellias, Rhododendrons, and Epacris. Transplanting into proper soil is, in this case, the only means of restoring the leaves to their natural green colour. If, in the cases in which unsuitable soil, bad drainage, or excessive watering is the source of discoloration, the cause be not removed in time, then follows the second stage of the disease, in which the soil becomes sour, the young roots rot, and the leaves of the young shoots turn yellow. The remedy then is to cut away all the decayed parts of the roots, to transplant into freer and richer soil, to have perfect drainage, to water cautiously, and to give the plants a good position, favourable to their growth, or, if the disease has not very much advanced, it will some- times suffice to provide good drainage, and to water sparingly with tepid water. By the discoloration of the leaves, the functions of receiving and assimilating nutriment are dis- turbed; therefore a minimum supply of food should be given until fresh roots have been formed, and the leaves have re- covered their normal colour. Watering with warm water, after the drainage has been looked to, tends to remove from the soil the hurtful sourness which has been pro- duced through the stoppage of the drainage outlet, and, in cases where the disease has not made much progress, will be of service, by restoring the soil to a proper con- dition of sweetness. But, when the disease has already made great progress, the plant must be taken up, and all affected roots cut back to the sound wood. In still worse cases, the soil of the ball must be shaken out entirely, the roots cut back, and the plant re-planted with some powdered charcoal or sand round the roots, and, outside of this, some loose soil. Rich soil should not be given until the plant has recovered. Discolora- tion is sometimes also the result of low temperature. The leaves of Orange trees, for instance, often turn yellow in summer, when continuous wet weather or cold winds prevail. It is chiefly, however, plants from warm latitudes, which suffer from this cause, and the remedy consists in removing them to a warmer and more favourable position. Decay of the roots may, likewise, sometimes occur in consequence of too great dry- ness. Plants, which are kept too dry during their season of growth, soon lose both leaves and young shoots. The loss of the former re-acts on the young roots, and they also perish. Disease may also often be produced by injudicious watering, such as at one time giving so little that the lower part of the ball is not moistened, and at others giving so much that the ball gets saturated. The general falling-off of the leaves, which precedes the season of rest in deciduous plants is a well- known and natural phenomenon, and, after it occurs, the plants require a lower temperature and less water for some months than they have hitherto had. Many evergreen plants grown in rooms, however, often shed their leaves in quantities. This is usually the consequence of the plants being placed in a posi- tion at a distance from light, or it may follow from the effects of a dry atmosphere acting upon plants just brought in from a warm moist plant-stove. A well-lighted position, careful watering, and, later on, cutting back the plants to the last year's wood, are the means to be used in order to effect a cure. Plants sometimes die off suddenly in consequence of the partial decay of the stem immediately above the roots, while the roots themselves, shoots, and leaves, remain quite fresh- looking and healthy. This is produced by watering plants which stand in the full sunshine and which have both pot and ball then very much heated. The sudden lowering of the temperature and the absorption of a considerable quantity of water by the plant produce a stagnation of sap where the roots join the stem. The upper part of the plant is thus starved. Tender evergreen plants, especially Heaths, are liable to this disease, which should be guarded against by ceasing to water when the pots are heated by the sun. The pots, however, should be screened from bright sunshine. Rotting of the crown also follows when plants, which have become dry when sent from great distances in summer, are placed with their balls in water, or are watered too copiously, and suddenly brought from a condition of extreme dryness into one of extreme humidity. The proper treatment of such plants should be to place them in the shade, and to water them sparingly at first, gradually increasing the supply of water as they recover from their dried-up condition. Mildew is a disease which is apt to appear on Roses when forced. It spreads iu the form of a number of minute white threads over the leaves and buds of the young shoots, spoiling the appearance of the plants, and producing a partial or total loss of the leaves. The white thread-like mycelium always appears at first in the shape of globules, which afterwards spread. In many cases they continue in what is termed the oidium state without developing into the second form of fungus. This is almost always so in the case of the Rose-fungus, which should not be allowed to spread, but shonld be extirpated on its first appear- ance. When the first traces of it are seen on a plant, they should be carefully washed off and the whole plant should be sprinkled with warm water in which some flowers of sulphur have been stirred up, or the leaves should be well dusted with the sulphur when wet, and after it has been on them for a day or two it should be washed off. M. Limekiln Heating. — Mr. John Cowan is not quite correct in stating that the system of limekiln heating used by him has nothing in common with that originally invented by me ; for his, like mine, consists of a boiler heated by a limekiln. They certainly differ strikingly in detail ; but Mr. Cowan errs with regard to the chimney. I never stated anywhere that I did not use one, and, in point of fact, I had one attached to my first kiln years "before his invention was patented. — Alex. Colles, Mill Mount, Kilkenny. 22 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 2, 1875. Should Hot- water Pipes be Full or Three-parts Full? ■ — In heating conservatories and chnrches by means of hot water, should the pipes be fall or only three-parts full, in order to allow the water to swell ? My particular case is that of a church, which I wish to warm effectually. We have one of Sugden's independent conical boilers, 4 feet high, 15 inches in diameter, with one cross tube, and about 260 feet of 4-inch piping. The boiler is placed about 3 feet below the floor, and at the two highest points we have small taps to let off the air. The supply-cistern is about 16 feet above the pipes ; but the chimney has no draught. Will the pipes work best full or three-parts full ? — Peter Settle, Whitehaven. [The pipes should be kept quite full, otherwise the water will not circulate properly. You can easily ascertain if your pipes are full ; for, in that case, the water will overflow at your air-taps. The supply-cistex-n should be kept about half. full, as about half the depth of an 18-inch cistern will be ample space to allow for the swelling of the water in your apparatus. Of course, the water should not be allowed to boil, but only kept hot. If your pipes dip under any doorways or passages, and rise up again on the other side, that will tend to impede the circulation of the water. The want of draught in the chimney may possibly be caused by its being choked with soot, especially if there are any bends in it. As it is impossible to say exactly what is wrong in such a case as yours without inspection, we would advise you to have the apparatus examined by a competent hot-water engineer. The boiler you mention ought to heat the amount of piping named ; but we cannot say whether the piping is sufficient to heat the church or not without being made acquainted with its size.] Periodical Flow of Sap in Trees. — Baranetzky, of the Observatory at Kieff , has investigated the periodicity of the bleeding of certain plants and its cause. Hofmeister was the first who recognised that this phenomena was one very widely observed among forest trees, and the daily and annual periods of this flow of sap have been examined into by several persons. Among the newer results ai'rived at by Baranetzky, it may be mentioned that he has been able to show that the daily variations of temperature had but little to do with the flow of sap, the latter being as decided in trees protected from temperature variations, by being inclosed in the hot- houses of the botanical gardens, as in the trees of the open air. The variations aro perfectly regular, attaining their maxima and minima on the same day and at the same hours, and seem to him to indicate that the influence of temperature on the periodicity of the bleeding is, at least by certain plants, not direct and immediate, but of such a nature that it at first becomes manifest some time after the action of that which causes it. By introducing an artificial temperature variation, this idea was brought to a severe test, and it was shown that the temperature had really but little to do with the flow of sap, although it would bo hasty to conclude that it had no influence whatever. It is only in the case of great temperature variations (for instance, a change of 20° Fahr.), that the normal rate of flow of sap is sensibly disturbed. Fertilising Aucubas. — In your number for the 5th of December you have remarks (p. 525) on this subject. They seem to apply, however, to small or pot plants. Having more than a dozen large female plants about my grounds, I procured three years ago a male plant with plain green leaves. This I planted near a large spotted female, and when both were in flower, though the male was going off, I struck the male flowers against the females, and succeeded in getting a fair quantity of fruit, not only on the one plant, but on several others similarly treated. Next year I followed the same plan — the male having grown and produced moro blossom — with the same success ; but I had tho pleasure of seeing many branches out of my reach bearing fruit, and of course naturally fertilised. Last spring I left tho female plant first mentioned quite alone, and tho consequence is a splendid crop of fruit in bunches from a dozen downwards : but, besides this, two other largo plants in a line with it, probably 30 and 60 feet from the male plant on tho sido next to it, have fruit set in the same way. The inference is that leaving Nature to herself is the best plan, and that the pollen will do its duty at a considerable distance. When using tho male flower artificially I throw the flowers I have been using into tho middle of tho plant, and I have put fresh flowers into a bottle and suspended them in the tree. Of courso I have raised young plants, but am saved that trouble by Belf-sown ones, of which I have one or two, and expect to see an abundance next year. I do not consider the flowers insignificant, but very pretty. — G. B., hath. Rat-proof Wire Fences. — In tho description given of these fences, at p. 506, the upright bars are reported to be an inch apart ; permit us to stato that they should not bo moro than half an inch apart, the former mesh being sufficiently large to let a good-sized rat through. We have made largo quantities of fencing of tho closer mesh, which fully bear out all that is stated as to their being perfectly rat-proof. — J. J. TnoMAS & Co., 362, Edgware Road. NOTES AND QUESTIONS. [The following notes and questions came to hand, or were answered, too late for insertion in their several departments.] Onion Seed for an Acre.— Can anyone tell me how much seed is required to sow an acre of Onions for pickling ? What would be the average produce ? What soil is best? And what would be the cost? — Sireathah. New Type of Pelargonium- — In the remarks on this subject, translated from the Revue Worticole and published in our columns last week (see p. 681), . for Mr. Charles Haller, of Nice, read Mr. Charles Huber, a correction for which we are indebted to Mr. Jean Sisley, of Lyons, the writer of the article in question. Schizostylis coccinea. — I can endorse all your correspondent has said (see p. 539) in favour of this plant ; here it was in bloom till the 7th of last month, when the rain and frost spoiled the remainder of the blossoms. Not only is it useful for outdoor display, but, when grown in pots, it is of great service in the embelbshment of the conservatory. I ought also to add that, as a cut flower, it will keep perfectly in water for some days. — J. C, Tyenkam. Wintering Alocasias. — What do you consider the best way of treating Alocasias in winter? Are they to be dried off like Caladiums, or kept moderately moist ? I should like to know particularly about Lowii, metallica, zebrina, and macrorhiza. — An Ama.teue. [Winter your Alocasias in a warm plant-stove, keeping them rather drier at the root than when growing. The kinds you name are evergreen, and must not be dried off like A. Marshallii, A. Jenningsii, and other deciduous species J Fittonia argyroneura an Edging for Shelves.— For concealing the bare edges of stone shelves this plant is extremely useful. I have seen it grown in many places, but I never saw it cultivated in such perfection as it is in the plant stoves at Drumlanrig. There it is grown in nothing but half an inch of gravel, which is placed upon the shelves to set the pots on, and so luxuriant is its development that it hangs down 2 feet below the top of the shelves, and forms a rich and beautiful screen of silver-veined foliage. — J. Muib. Aueuba japouica dioecia. — In Mr. Maurice Young's catalogue, under the head of " New Aucubas," I see announced a variety, " Dicecia, having male and female on the same plant." I know not whether this is merely a' grafted form or whether it is a true variety, but it is undoubtedly incorrectly named. The common Aueuba is dioecious, that is, has the two sexes on distinct individuals ; plants with the male and female on one plant, but in separate blossoms, are termed monoscious, and moncccia would, no doubt, be a suitable name for Mr. Young's variety. — G. S. Bqulgek. Grapes Travelling without Packing Material.— In reference to this subject, allow me to say that, last autumn, I sent several hampers of Grape3 packed as is described in your last number, from Jersey to Scotland. The sorts sent were Black Hamburgh, Lady Downe's Seedling, and Golden Champion ; this last, I was afraid, would not travel safely, as both tho bunches and berries were large— in fact, they looked as if the less they were moved the better; but they arrived at their destination in good condition. The entire quantity sent, I was informed, had travelled better than any hitherto sent carefully packed in tissue paper, which was wrapped round each bunch, the interstices being filled in between with cotton wadding. — R. P. B. Winter-flowering Orchids.— The following Orchids are now in bloom in the Victoria Nursery, Holloway, viz.: — Lycaste Skinneri andlanipes; Mas- devallia ignea and Veitchii ; Maxillaria venusta, nigrescens, andpicta ; Odon- toglossum Andersonianum, Bluntii, cordatum, grande and rubescens ; On- cidium cucullatum and tigrinum ; Phalamopsis amabilis, grandiflora and rosea; Aneectochilus ordianus ; a new Burlingtonia ; Cymbidium Mastersii; Cattleya superba splendens ; Calanthe Turnerii, Yeitchii, vestita lutea-ocu- lata and V. rubra-oculata ; Cypripedium insigne, javanicum and Koezlii ; Dendrobium McCarthice ; Epidendrum prismatocarpum, vitellinum, and dichro- mum ; Lcelia autuninalis and anceps superba ; Saccolabium giganteum ; Stanhopca tigrina; Vanda tricolor Dodgsonii, flava, and insignis; and Zygo- petalum Mackaii. The Stoekwell Green Building Agitation.— Within the past ten days or so the question with respect to building upon Stock- well Green has assumed an entirely now phase ; it now appears that the demand made for the land, by the alleged freeholder — originally £4,000, next £8,000, and now finally said to be £12,000— hast led to Chancery proceedings, which may ultimately result in establishing the fact that Mr. Abbott, who sold the ground to Mr. Honey for building purposes, had, after all, no legal right to do so, and, if so, that Mr. Honey's title is consequently bad. Should this eventually turn out to be the true stato of affairs, the despoiling of the Green, which has been in progress during the last few weeks, may prove a serious matter for those responsible for it. It appears that the work of dismantling going forward at tho early part of last week caused such an amount of irrita- tion amongst tho inhabitants as to have almost led to a breach of the peace. This was during the cutting down and removal of two of the finest trees on tho Green, and the clearing away of a considerable portion of the turf. Tho other day the case came before the Master of the Rolls, on an application for an injunction in the suit of " Hammerton v. Honey," when the Master of the Rolls, upon an e,e pevrte statement, granted an interim injunction restraining the defendant, the lord of the manor, from buildiog upon or enclosing the Green. The eifect of this judicial ordor is, that the Green must not further bo disturbed until the case is legally argued on both sides, which will not take place before the middlo of this month. OBITUARY. We have to record, with much regret, the death of Mr. Charles Norval Thompson, son of the late Mr. Robert Thompson, for many years super- intendent of tho Royal Horticultural Society's Gardens, at Chiswick, at the early age of forty. For fourteen years he was sub-editor of one of our oldest horticultural journals ; his genial disposition and unobtrusive manners, whUe in that capacity, gained for him many friends, and few enemies. He leaves a widow and four children indifferently provided for. THE GAKDEN. No. 164.] SATURDAY, JAN. 0. 1875. [Vol. VII. " This is an art Which does mend nature : change it rather : but The Art itself is Nature." — Shakespeare. TRANSPLANTING OLD FRUIT TREES. Having seen many remarks lately on the transplanting of trees, and the effects of mulching and other treatment in pro- moting success, and in improving the health of the subjects operated upon, the following account of an experiment, on a somewhat extensive scale, which I made a few years ago with aged fruit trees will, perhaps, be interesting, as showing what may be accomplished in this direction with good prospects of success. It is often desirable to remove old fruit trees on an estate, but the fear of failure as frequently prevents the opera- tion being carried out — more especially if the trees in question are favourites or are in a fruitful condition. Old orchard trees will bear root-pruning of a severe kind when they happen to be growing in a strong deep soil, and are making more wood than is desirable, as they sometimes do in late districts, but, when they are removed altogether, the check they receive is very great, particularly if the trees have never been trans- planted before ; hence they require special treatment. In the winter of 1867, I had to re-arrange a large number of fruit trees. About forty of these were above thirty years of age, and had not been disturbed at the root during that period. They were in a rampant and unfruitful condition; the sub-soil under them was deep and moist, and into this the roots had penetrated. I began transferring the trees to their new quarters in November, without much hope of success, as I found it would be impossible to get any feeding roots away with them. They had penetrated far into the stiff loam, and within a radius of 5 feet from the stem scarcely a fibre was found — nothing but long bare roots that had to be chopped off at the above length, as following them to their extremities was simply out of the question. I, however, " lipped " the roots every 9 inches or so to induce fresh rootlets, and transplanted them with as much care as possible, though none could be moved with a ball of soil, as the roots had no holding power. By January they were all transplanted and mulched thickly as a protection against winter frost or summer drought, and but for this precaution I believe not one of the trees would have been alive at the present time. The year 1868 was excessively hot and dry, as most of us will remember. It was particularly so in this district, and aggravated in our particu- lar case by an empty reservoir ; the trees, therefore, received little or no watering, but depended on the mulching alone, which just enabled them to retain their vitality, and nothing more. With the exception of some half-dozen or so of the number, not a tree moved a bud perceptibly, and they remained leafless and bare from November, 1867, till the spring of 1869, thus actually losing a year of their existence. Their forlorn appearance attracted much attention, and many predicted the demise of the whole; still, though the bark on the branches shrank visibly, sections of the buds showed that vitality was still present, and we did not despair. The few trees that pushed out leaves, which they did feebly about June, all perished; the little foliage they made evidently exhausting the last remnant of vitality. The following year, however, all the trees were clothed luxuriantly with foliage, and for some years after many of them bore better crops than they had ever done before. Numbers of the same trees have since been again moved to an orchard, and are now growing vigorously. It is not often, I believe, that deciduous trees remain dormant a whole summer after moving, and eventually survive ; but that they will do so is a fact beyond doubt, and that, as I have shown, under very adverse circumstances. Possibly few evergreens would survive under similar circumstances ; but I can state that the Holly will. Some years ago I had to lift some large trees in June. Owing to the stony nature of the soil, only poor balls could be got with the roots ; and, though they were well watered during the season, no leaves were put forth, nor did the buds appear to move. The second year after planting they made but the scantiest foliage, though they flowered freely along the leafless twigs, but bore no fruit. These trees are now in excellent health. The importance of mulching thickly all newly-transplanted trees cannot be over-estimated. Stirring the soil during the summer has been recom- mended as being quite as beneficial as mulching ; but this I cannot admit. Let anyone try the experiment of mulching a row of Raspberries, and stirring the soil only about another row, and note the result. They will assuredly find out that in one instance they have given their labour for nothing. We all know that to keep the ground well stirred among growing crops is a good practice in droughty seasons, but where a mulching of short Grass can be applied, it is infinitely better, as plenty of gardeners know who have to contend with dry soils. Stirring the soil merely lessens evaporation from the surface of the ground, but mulching prevents it almost entirely. Under the thinnest layer of short litter or Grass, the surface of the soil will always be found sweet and moist. One marked effect of mulching is, that it coaxes the roots of both trees and vege- tables to the surface, where they evidently derive considerable nourishment from the dressing, but this is never the case where stirring the soil is alone resorted to. For this reason, mulching is injurious to Potatoes, for it causes them to push their roots up to the surface, and to form their tubers there, where, as the mulching decays, they get greened, and are, of course, useless. It is well known, also, how a thick mulching encourages Vine roots to the surface of the border. Indeed, no amount of top-dressing and stirring will ever accomplish the same result so quickly and so successfully. In some places, where excessive neatness is required, mulching is objected to, and the hoe used instead, and with what result ? I have seen such borders so cracked and rent during summer that you might have inserted a walking stick into the fissures in many places. This cracking is more apt to occur in fruit- tree borders than anywhere else, for, as a rule, they are not dug frequently like the vegetable quarters, and being hard and firm, get rent in all directions, like baked clay. These fissures present an increased surface to the action of the air, and evaporation goes on, both above and below ground, so to speak, and the result is red spider, and other evils, in an aggravated form. J. S. W. ON PRUNING THE REDWOOD. (taxodium sempervirens.) The Taxodium or Sequoia sempervirens, as it is frequently called, was first discovered on the north-west coast of America by Mr. Menzies, in the year 1796, but was not introduced into cultivation in Great Britain till about the year 1843. Not- withstanding the length of time it has been in this country, it does not seem to have attained that place in public estimation which it justly deserves, probably owing to most of the young plants sent out from nursery establishments being cutting- made, and, therefore, not possessing at first that upright habit and general symmetrical appearance which ought to be peculiar to seedling plants. The Taxodium is perfectly hardy, and cutting-made plants, if properly attended to with regard to early and, for a time, an occasional pruning, will ultimately make excellent and well-formed trees. Care, however, must be taken of them till such time as they begin to assume a true upright habit. Many cutting-made plants often take on double heads ; the weaker one must always be removed, and this can be done with safety at any time of its growth. This tree appears to stand any amount of cutting with impunity, and at all ages ; indeed, the more pruning they receive the better for giving them a pyramidal shape. It is most essential for the after-growth of the leader that all the top side-shoots should be pointed ; if not, they spread out rapidly, and are apt to disfigure a tree, particularly after the lower ones have been operated on. I have pruned them of all sizes, from 1 to 20 feet, and I never knew a specimen in the least degree injured by it. In many places the unpruned branches are often seen dead at the points during the spring months. It is a very beautiful evergreen tree, and well suited for lawn or avenue culture. After pruning it will be found that the twigs pro- duced are very numerous, and usually assume a pendent and graceful appearance. Any amount of cuttings may be annually taken from one tree without disfiguring it; yet, notwithstanding 24 THE GAEDEN. [Jan. 9, 1875. its free-growing propensity, it is but rarely seen in collections, and, when observed, appears a wide-spreading bush, and is any- thing but pleasing to look at. Comparatively few seeds, in a state fit for germination, seem to have come to this country, as I never had the good fortune to raise more than three or four, all other specimens under my care being cutting-made plants. In some establishments seedlings have been raised, but are often outgrown by plants struck from cuttings. The Taxodium succeeds well, both in high and low situations, and in all soils where free pruning has been tried ; it also thrives in woods, where it is generally allowed to ramble about, and is often uncared for. A few plants were much injured here during the ever memorable winter of 1860-61 ; this, I consider, was owing to the weight of snow at that time bending down their unpruned branches, and exposing the ruptured vessels to the severe frost which at the time prevailed, the mercury falling to 5° below zero. The same kind of injury happened to many of the unpruned Deodars that winter, most of the branches being spreading, and the plants chiefly in a shrub-growing condition. I feel satisfied that many of the larger unpruned specimens, if well cut in during the months of September and October, and even later, will, on account of the pyramidal shape thus given them, be able to resist snow with more success than can possibly be expected of unpruned specimens. I have also pruned them during the spring months, and never expe- rienced any bad results. The Taxodium is more frequently to be met with in England than in Scotland, and some now seen in sheltered situations have attained a considerable size ; the generality of them, however, would be the better for a judicious pruning. It is a noble tree in its own country, and its timber, which is called Eed Wood, is highly recommended for many purposes. The bark of the Taxodium is very like that _ of the Wellingtonia gigantea; it is of a thick brown cushion-looking substance. This peculiar bark is chiefly con- fined to the stem, as I have not observed it on the branches of any of the plants. Large seedling plants of Taxodium, although possessing rather short leading shoots, have, very generally, wide-spreading branches, giving the trees a some- what hemispherical appearance. Some known to me, although of the same age as many cutting-made plants, which hare been regularly branch-pointed from their infancy, are now scarcely two-thirds of their height; whereas some of the original seedlings, which have been regularly branch-pruned and pointed, have a totally different appearance, being tall and shapely ; the sap, as may be expected, all going to support the stem and the new-made points of the pruned branches, instead of being wasted in forming the numerous free-growing side-shoots, which, by rights, ought to have been removed by early pruning, but are often neglected till they become wide- spreading. If cutting has to be resorted to they lose a good deal of the feeding properties which for years would have gone to make up the stem and pendent branches. The same remarks apply to several other Coniferous trees known to me. For my own part, I do not see any harm in the early working of a tree to make it useful for ornament, as well as for timber- making purposes. James McNab. Royal Botanic Garden, Edinburgh. IS THE FKTJIT CHANGED BY FOREIGN POLLEN ? Prof. Asa Gray has an important article on this subject in that excellent monthly, the American Agriculturist. At this season, when Apples of a different variety from that of the tree that bore them, or combining two sorts in the same Apple, are brought in, it is natural that the discussion of the cause and origin of such freaks should revive, and run the customary round of the papers. You ask whether thero is any new evidence that pollen may act immedi- ately on tho fruit of the fertilised flower so as to impart to it, as well as to the resulting embryo, its own specific character. In reply, I would say that the only recent contribution I know of, that really throws any more light upon this curious object, is an experiment by Maximowicz, a Russian botanist. He crossed two Lilies, which differ moro in the form of their pods than iu anything else (the common bulbiferous Lily and Lilium davuricum), and the wavy pod of tho one developed directly into a pod of the shape of the other. This change of shape, so caused, seems to mo oven moro extraordinary than the change of quality or texture, such as takes place in Squashes and Melons. I should think that the fact of such action of pollen, wholly improbable, as it seemed to be, particularly to scientific men, is now pretty well established ; and I find, on looking up the subject, that all this had been made out very long ago. This ought not to excite surprise, for our ancestors were quite as sharp-sighted as we are, and if this occurs now-a-days it must have occurred in former days as well. It is said that Theophrastus and Pliny allude to it, but I cannot look up that matter now. In the case of Apples, good old Peter Collinson, the correspondent of Franklin and John Bartram and Linn:eus, brought some to the notice of the Royal Society in 1745, and there is a communication in the Philosophical Transactions of that year " concerning the effect which the farina of the blossoms of the different sorts of Apple trees had on the fruit of a neighbouring tree." Mr. Cook, the author of the communication, Bent to Mr. Peter Collinson some Russetings, changed by the farina of a next neighbour, whose name he wanted still to know, but conld only say that the Russeting had acquired his face and complexion. Mr. Collinson then produced several samples of the Apples, an untainted Russeting, a Russeting changed in com- plexion which grew among a great cluster of unaltered brethren, and some Apples of the other tree which had caused the change iu the Russetings, and whose fruit had in return receivod a rough coat from the Russetings. It is curious to notice that, when this subject came up in England fifty years ago, illustrated by new cases, both in fruits and the coats of seeds (such as Pears), Mr. Knight, the prince of vegetable physiologists of his day, declared against the idea that the pollen had anything to do with it. As the upshot of his own observations in making "some thousand" experiments with pollen, in which he found no such changes, he remarked that he con- ceived himself qualified to decide that in the deviations of the fruits mentioned from their ordinary character, the operation of the pollen of another variety was not the disturbing cause. Soon after he took the same ground in respect to the coat of seeds. Nevertheless sufficient positive testimony has in both cases overborne the negative, but there is no indication that Knight was ever convinced by it. At the start he was prepossessed by another theory. He had already published an account of a branch of a yellow Magnum Bonum Plum that bore red fruit ; but, though it did this only for a single season, bearing yellow Plums the next year, Knight still clung to the view he was committed to, i.e., that it was a case of " bud variation." There is something curious in the case of these Apples of two sorts. In a strongly marked case which I examined, a Spitzenberg Apple was russet on one side. The flower, of course, had five stigmas. If two or three of these were acted upon by foreign pollen, and the others by their own pollen, tho strongly-marked difference of colouration should have divided the Apple unequally, one would think. But exactly one half was red and unchanged Spitzenberg, and the other russet. I believe this is often the case. It has lately been attempted to explain such Apples on the principle of reversion. This has been suggested as a more probable cause than the action of pollen. But that assumes that the Russet has Spitzenberg blood in it, or vice versa, which is gratuitous and most unlikely. The other explanation assumes nothing except what is known to take place in strictly parallel cases. MINIATURE EVERGREEN TREES FOR SMALL GARDENS. Tee word " Evergreenery " may be hardly correct ; but I can find no other which suits my purpose so well or will better convey au idea of what I here propose to describe. Arboretum is a higher sounding word, but not applicable, inasmuch as it means a collection of both deciduous as well as evergreen trees. Thero are many persons residing in the suburbs of our large cities and towns who own but a small plot of land, consequently, they seldom attempt much more in the way of ornamental gardening than setting out a few cheap bedding plants, or sow seeds of common annuals, on account, as they suppose, of lack of room to do anything better. It is to this class in particular that I recommend the miniature evergreens ; while others, who have plenty of land and means, can use the larger kinds in addition. There wa3 a time, not long ago, that to talk of a variety of evergreen trees and shrubs suggested extensive grounds; but, happily for those with limited means and gardens, those days are past. During the last decade or two our horticulturists have been picking up here and thero in various parts of the world many rare species and varieties of dwarf evergreen trees and shrubs, until the most enterprising among them have extensive collections of this kind, with which a most elegant display of rich and varied foliage may bo made even in a very small garden. The value of these miniature evergreens for small gardens can scaroly be over-estimated — not only on account of their permanent beauty, but their appropriateness for just such places seems to harmonise with the modern ideas of high art in gardening. The Jan. 9 1875.] THE GARDEN. 25 fitness of things in general is not Btudied or thought of by many when trying to arrange the little garden-plot in front or elsewhere about their dwellings. Hence, the frequent planting of giant Pines and Spruces, by the dozen, within limits which would not suffice for one full-grown tree. Arbor- vitse. — Of the American Arbor, vitse (Thuja occidentalis), there are several beautiful dwarf varieties, well suited to cultivation in small gardens. Booth's dwarf is a very neat compact bush, and of a lively, cheerful shade of green. Globosa is, as its name indicates, globular in form, and the foliage of a deep rich green colour. Plants in my ground, fifteen years old, are 3 feet in diameter, and about the same in height, and a3 perfect as though turned in a lathe. Ericoides is a very pretty variety, with very fine soft leaves, like a Heath ; hence its name. Tom Thumb is one of the most curious as well as beautiful varieties ever raised from this species. It assumes a somewhat conical form and its leaves are soft and fine. It browns in winter unless shaded. The American Golden, is a new dwarf variety, with the ends of the branches of a clear bright golden colour. It is very hardy, and the rich golden colour of its leaves gives a pleasing con- trast with the dark -green of other kinds when planted in groups. Argentea or Silver-tipped Arbor-vitae. — This is a very pretty variety, with the branches tipped with white. Eastern Arbor- vitse (Biota orientalis). — Of these there are also many beautiful varieties, and some of them are worthy of a place in the choicest collections. The Chinese Golden Arbor-vitso is a very pretty variety, with fine foliage of a light yellowish-green. Another variety, known as the Elegant (B. elegantissima) , has the branchlets tipped with golden-yellow. Melden's Arbor-vitaa (B. Meldensis) has very fine soft leaves, similar to tho Tom Thumb, but not quite as rich in colour. In winter, unless protected from the sun, the leaves change to a brown or reddish colour. Junipers. — This genus furnishes ns some very desirable dwarf species and varieties. The common Savin (Jnnipcrus sabina), and the variegated-leaved variety, are two of the best for small gardens, as they are low, compact growing shrubs, with fine handsome foliage. The Trailing or Creeping Juniper (J. squamata), and Tamarisk, leaved (J. sabinoidos) should always be planted at the extreme outer edge of a group, as they creep over the ground or form a very dense, low bush. They are very hardy, handsome, and desirable. Taxus, or Yews. — Pew plants have been more.praisedinprose and poetry than tho Yew, and it deserves all that it has received. I will not try to discriminate between the dozen species and varieties cultivated by our nurserymen, because one can scarcely go amiss in selecting one or more, as all are suitable for small gardens, none growing very large during a lifetime ; and should a specimen pass beyond prescribed limits, the pruning knife or shears may be freely used in bringing it back. There- are golden and variegated-leaved varieties, in strong contrast with the dark green foliage of the i parent species. The American Tew (T. canadensis), should never be omitted from the list of dwarf evergreens. Its deep green foliage and bright red berries in autumn are merits which place it high in the estimation of all lovers of beautiful plants. Pines. — There are few of the true Pines which are admis- sible in a small garden, or in a group of evergreens, such as I have proposed. Mugho Pine (Pinus Hugho), from the mountains of Central Europe, may, however, be introduced as a dwarf, although an occasional specimen will assume the tree form, instead of remaining a dwarf shrub. A handsome specimen in my garden, fifteen years old, is only about 2 feet high and 4 in diameter. If a plant inclines to grow too tall, it may be kept down by cutting off tho leading shoots. Another variety, called the Knee Pine, never grows on its native mountains (the Alps) more than 3 feet high. Retinosporas.— We are indebted to Japan for these beautiful little evergreens. One of the most desirable among these is R. aurea- plumosa, the foliage of which is soft, fine, and of a brilliant golden colour, fully sustaining its name of " golden plume." I fear that few persons will be satisfied with a single plant of this in a group, for, when dotted here and there among the dark-coloured foliage of other kinds, they seem to give light and life to to the picture, the strong and striking contrast adding much to the beauty and brilliancy of both. Spruces. — Like the Pines, there are comparatively few Spruces sufficiently dwarf in habit for the city or village garden. But the few that are suitable are gems of their kind, and the most beautiful of all is a native of New York State, having been found npon the banks of the Hudson, a few years ago. It is known as the Weeping Hemlock, and may be considered to be among the ever, greens what the Weeping Willow is among deciduous trees — i.e., the " Queen of Weepers." I regret, however, to add that it is still scarce and not yet in market, but probably will be very soon. There are also several varieties of the Spruce of a very dwarf habit. One known as the Pigmy resembles the Norway Spruce in everything except size — a full-grown specimen scarcely exceeding 3 feet in height. Another variety, called Gregoryana, forms a neat little dense ball of green, 1 to 3 feet in diameter, and about the same in height. There are also many other varieties belonging to the same genera or species as those named above ; but I have named enough to show that there is no lack of materials with which to satisfy those who may desire to make a fine display ? [Thus writes Mr Fuller in tho " Horticulturist " concerning evergreens for small gardens, but a great many more charming varieties and species might be added to the above, all of which are easily obtainable in nurseries.] DALMATIAN AND OTHER INSECT POWDERS. By HERMANN KALBRUNER. Certain species of Pyrethrum have obtained considerable reputation as insecticides; the P. carneum and P. roseum both growing wild, and frequently cultivated in the Caucasus, have both proved to bo excellent in this respect. In 1846, a Tiflis merchant introduced the sale of these flowers into Vienna under the name of " Persian Insect Powder." Notwithstanding that P. carneum and P. roseum are indigenous in the Caucasus and Persia, they have been successfully cultivated in many localities in Europe and North America. The climate of Lower Austria suits them very well ; they are found there as ornamental plants in gardens, and they grow in northerly cool places with especial luxuriance. I have had plants of P. roseum in my garden during several years, and they have supported the cold of winter without shelter. Under the name of Dalmatian Insect Powder, the flowers of Pyrethrum cinerariosfolium, a plant that grows wild in Dalmatia, have been used. Through a friend I have obtained some seeds from Dalmatia, from which I have been successful in raising plants in my garden, where they have lived through the winter in the open air. In order to test the effect of the different insect powders, I sprinkled some flies with the powders, and took the length of the time required to kill the flies as the measure of the value of the powders. When a house fly was placed in a small flask, sprinkled with four gi-ains of insect powder, if the powder was very powerful, there was considerable stupor at the end of one minute, followed by death of the fly after two or three minutes. The commercial insect powders behaved differently in this respect, some of them correspond- ing completely to the above standard, whilst others, although they quickly stupefied flies treated as above, required fifteen to thirty minutes to kill them. The druggists in Vienna purchase the whole flowers, yielded by the uncultivated Dalmatian Pyrethrum cinerarias, folium, and the powder they supply is a very energetic preparation. It is noteworthy that both these entire flowers and the powders prepared from them, after being kept six years, do not suffer any particular loss of activity. I have found the powder of the flowers of P. cinerarijBiolium very active. P. roseum appeared to be slower in its action, which I ascribe to the circumstance that the single flowers are much more powerful than the double flowers, which appear to have little activity. The double flowers occur in P. roseum in much larger proportions than in P. cinerarisefolium ; and to this fact I consider the greater activity of the latter due. The fresh (undried) flowers of both these Pyrethrums will kill flies, but very slowly. The plant itself, powdered, appeared to be quite inactive. In a similar manner I have tested the powdered flowers of several Austrian Composite, and have found the following to be quite inactive in this respect : — Chrysanthemum leucanthemnm, 0. coro- narinm, Anthemis arvensis, A. Cotnla, A. tinctoria, A. nobilis, and Inula pnlicaria. Tho flowers of Tanacetum vulgare and Pyrethrum corymbosnm appeared to have a very slight stupefying effect. Of all the Austrian indigenous Composites tried, only the powdered flowers of Pyrethrum parthenium and P. inodorum exercised a stupe- f ying influence upon flies, and that only after the flies had been dusted from one to two hours; their value, therefore, as insecticides, is very slight. In a scientific aspect, it is, however, interesting to notice that up to the present time the action obnoxious to insects has only been observed in the genns Pyrethrum, whilst from other composites approaching very nearly to that genus the property is absent. Some years since, the Journal de Pharmacie d'Anvers con- tained an article, asserting that the insecticidal action of Persian insect powder was due to powdered flowers of Anthemis Cotuta. I have, however, found the flowers of this species quite inactive, since flies which had been dusted with it were, after four hours, still able to fly away readily. I, therefore, conjecture that a species of Pyrethrum was mistaken for A. Cotula. The cultivation of Pyrethrum roseum and P. carneum has already been attempted in various places in Austria. The author's experiment with P. cinerariaefolium yielded the flowers at a slight profit. But, as very active flowers can be obtained from Eastern Asia and Dalmatia at a moderate price, he does not think that home cultiva- tion would be remunerative. 26 THE GARDEN. [Jam. 9, 1875. NOTES Of THE WEEK. — — We saw the other day some twelve hundred healthy plants of Venus's Fly trap (Dionsea muscipula) in Messrs. Rollisson's nursery, at Tooting. They had recently been imported from the neighbourhood of Wilmington, North Carolina, and are just now making a vigorous start. This Dionasa being one of the reputed insectivorous plants, to which so much attention has lately been directed, possesses an interest apart from its singular structure and fresh green colour. In the New Quarterly there is an article on English flower gardens, -which is interesting in parts ; but, when the writer comes to suggestions for the future, and enumeration of materials, passages like the following do not betray acquaintance with the subject : — " Next comes that fine group of shrubs the Hibiscus, from Syria, from Africa, and from Japan, with the great bright red, purple, and yellow flowers, and leaves so variously and beautifully pinnated, that the Japanese make them a constant ' motive ' of design in their best art work." The index and title page for the volume ending 1874, together with a portrait of Mr. Marnock, will be published with next week's number of The Garden. Mr. Croucher writes to us to say that Aloe fruticosa, and the Abyssinian, and tree Aloes are now finely in flower in Mr. Peacock's collection of Succulents ai Hammersmith. It is reported that the King of the Belgians is about to erect a vast circular conservatory in his park at Laeken, from designs prepared by M. Balat. Cocoanuts were highly esteemed by the Mogul Emperors for goblets, for which purpose they were beautifully polished, fitted with gold rims, and adorned with precious stones. It was supposed that poison would lose its fatal properties when placed in such vessels. The January number of the Florist contains coloured representations of Eose St. George, a fine full deep crimson variety, the smooth incurved petals being shaded behind with soft lilac- purple ; and Welbeck seedling Nectarine, a kind about the size of the Elruge or Balgowan, but of a rich crimson colour, sparingly dotted with yellow. It is said to be of excellent flavour, and appears to be a welcome addition to this class of fruits. Dr. Richardson, of the University of Louisiana, writing to us from New Orleans, speaks of the great riche3 and beauty of the vegetation near the city of Mexico, and sends us an interesting account of the ascent of Popocatepetl, the great mountain, made by a party of which he was one. He doubts if, in any other part of the world there exists so great a variety of plants within so small an area of country as in the vicinity of Cordova and Orizaba. From the alpine to the strictly tropical is not half a day's journey. He adds, that from New Orleans to the city of Mexico is but a few day's journey — by sea to Vera Cruz, thence by rail. Mr. Quilter proposes to hold a series of annual flower shows in the Lower Grounds, at Aston, for the benefit of public institutions in Birmingham. He will take upon himself the cost and risk of such exhibitions, and then share the profits with;the selected institutions, after the expenses are paid. The exhibition of this year will be for the benefit of the Birmingham Institute, that next year for the Sanatarium, that of 1877 for the School of Art— leave being reserved for the Queen's Hospital to take 1878. In return for his offer Mr. Quilter stipulates for the formation of a general committee from the committees of these institutions, with the addition of other gentlemen who may be disposed to assist. The first exhibition will be held on Thursday, July 1st, and on the following Friday, Satur. day, and Monday for the benefit of the Midland Institute Buildinc Fund. The January number of the Botanical Magazine, oontains coloured figures of the following new or rare plants: — The Horned Gum tree (Eucalyptus cornuta) of Australia, which in cultivation at Kew, in the great temperate-house, forms a small tree 9 to 10 feet high, and flowers every year from the old wood. The flowers are borne in globose heads from 4 to G iuohes in diameter, the extinguisher, shaped covering of the yellow anthers being of a vivid scarlet colour.— Crocus byzantinns, a native of Transylvania, and a favourite in many old-fashioned gardens, has been cultivated in this country for the last two or three centurios. Its showy triangular flowers are of a deep purple-lilac colour.— Jamesia amerioana, a very pretty white- flowered plant nearly related to the Hydrangeas and the Saxafrages. Its dull, green, hairy leaves are oblong and serrate, the flowers being borne in terminal panicles.— Blumenbachia chuquitensis, a densely hairy plant nearly related to the pungent Loasas, having laciniato deep.green foliage of eroct growth and brilliant flowers, scarlet without, and goldon.yollow within.— Odontoglossum maxillare, a showy species, from Mexico, said to be nearly related to 0. Cervan. tesii, but it has far more affinity with 0. cordatum and 0. maculatum, from which it is easily distinguishable by its white flowers. The segments are blotohed with purple at the base, the lip blotched with orange-yellow. A new botanical annual, intended chiefly as a record of progress, has been started under the editorship of Dr. L. Just, of Carlsruhe. It is entitled Botanischer Jahresbericht. The presentation of the Cutler testimonial, consisting of a silver tea and coffee service, &c, subscribed for by the members of the Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Institution, will take place on Thursday next, the 14th inst., after the annual general meeting of that charity, which takes place on that day. It has recently been shown by M. Baillon that the leaves of plants are capable of absorbing water. He has been experimenting by sowing Peas in a box of such a construe tion that the plants can be immersed in water without the roots or t he soil in which they are growing becoming damp. He has kept Peas alive for two months without giving the roots any water whatev er, the soil being virtually quite dry. The fields of Sugar-beet near Sacramento, California, are reported to have been saved a short time back from destruction by vast armies of caterpillars through the labours of a flock of 3,000 turkeys. The struggle was evenly balanced for a time, and then success wavered, first one side gained, and then the other ; finally the turkeys triumphed, with the loss of one over-gorged victim, from whose crop alone were taken 1,500 caterpillars. Mr. Atkins, of Painswick, has sent us specimens of Cycla. men Atkinsii, which have withstood 25° of frost in the open air without injury. The thick tufted leathery foliage, prettily marbled with silvery-grey and the short petalled white flowers, blotched at the mouth of the tube with dark purplish-crimson, render this one of the most interesting of Cyclamens, and one which, as a winter- blooming plant for sheltered nooks in the rockery or in the wild garden, has few equals. Sir Thomas D. Acland, Bart., M.P., was summoned before the magistrates at Exeter the other day, for neglecting to have the hedges trimmed and trees lopped in various parts of his estate. In defence the hon. baronet said his father was fond of preserving the picturesque features of the Devonshire lanes, and out of respect to his memory the trees and brushwood had been left in their natural growth. An older was made by the magistrates for the removal of the cause of complaint. Mr. W. Phillips, of Shrewsbury, proposes to publish, under the title of " Elvellacei Britannici," dried specimens of the larger Ascomycetous Fungi. To persons forming collections of our indigenous Fungi, Mr. Phillips's fasciculi will be useful, since similar collections have hitherto principally comprised only the Hymenomycetes. Mr. Phillips will be assisted by various well- known mycologists, and ho proposes to issue a very limited number of copies at 12s. each fasciculus of fifty species. M. Gaillard has lately exhibited, according to the Revue Horticole, some very extraordinary Gourds, of various forms and colours, which, although attached to each other, are of different species. This has been accomplished by grafting the fruit of one kind upon that of another, when it is found that perfect adhesion takes place, and that the growth of each fruit continues unretarded. One example given is that of a green Spanish Gourd, upon the side of which another variety has been grafted. Another is that of a yellow Apple-shaped Gourd, into which was inserted the stalk of a green Pear-shaped one, a largo section of which was out off and replaced by a corresponding slice of a white-fruitcd Gourd ; in all cases a perfect union has been effected. In a lecture delivered a few days ago at the London Institu- tion, Sir John Lubbock said :— " The observations commenced by Sprengel and recommenced by Darwin seemed to have given to flowers an additional interest, and had shown that insects, and especially bees, had an importance previously unsuspected. To them we owed the beauties of our gardens and the sweetness of our fields. To them flowers were indebted for their scent and colour, indeed their very existence in its present form. Not only had the brilliant colours, the sweet smell, and the honey of flowers been gradually developed by the unconscious agency of insects, but the very arrangements of the colours, the circular bands, and the radiating lines, the form, size, and position of the petals, the arrangement of the stamens and pistil — all had reference to the visits of insects, and were disposed in such a manner as to ensure the great object which these visits were destined to effect." Probably few will go so far as this with Sir John — even of those who see how animals and plants may influence each other in the struggle for life. Sir John's illustrated essay on this subject »has been published by Messrs. Macmillau this week. Jan. 9, 1875.] THE GARDEN. 27 THE FLOWER GARDEN. CULTURE OF THE GLADIOLUS. Those who wish to have a fine display of Gladioli next summer must now begin to prepare beds and clumps for their reception. Bulbs intended for planting should be obtained now, when they are well ripened, plump, and sound. The best time for planting is in March, commencing quite early in the month if the weather is at all favour- able. In order to secure an effective display and, at the same time, afford the plants an opportunity of fully developing the beauty of their flowers, they should be planted in beds, formed in rows not less than 18 inches apart, with a clear space of a foot between each bulb in the line. Some cultivators have recommended pitting the bulbs preparatory to planting them out, and growing them on for a time before transplanting them to the open ground ; but experience has proved that no advantage is derived from such a practice. Some have recommended planting as early as January or February, but it is best done in March, for that is early enough in the year to give the plants a beneficial start, while the risks of rotting or being otherwise injured through heavy rains in the earlier months are considerably lessened. If a few late flowers are required, the planting of some of the bulbs may be deferred till the middle of April, in order to ensure a succession of bloom. The preparation of the soil is an important point. A deep loam suits the Gladio. lus best, and the bed in which the roots are to be planted should be previously well trenched to the depth of 18 inches, digging in, at the same time, a good dressing of well-decomposed manure. Thoroughly rotten vegetable refuse and wood ashes, as well as some crushed bones, greatly assist in the develop- ment of the plants. As soon as the growth begins to appear through the soil, a thin dressing of fairly dry rotten manure may be put on the surface of the beds, a dressing from which they will derive great advantage, in- creasing the quantity as the plants mature their growth and the height of summer is reached. The course of treatment during the summer includes the keeping of the beds clear of weeds, and giving occasional stirrings to the surface. When the flower, stems reach a foot in height, each should be carefully tied to a stake to support it, and preserve it from harm from wind, which is very apt, unless the flower- stalks are properly supported, to twist them off close to the bulbs. In dry weather frequent sprinklings overhead and good surface waterings will be necessary, though the dressing of manure will do much to keep the bed moist and cool. In tying out the flower.stems to stakes and supports, be careful not to tie them too tightly ; sufficient space should be allowed to admit of an unfettered upward growth. Continue to tie as they advance in height, or the bed will have an irregular appearance. The taking up and storing of the bulbs is a matter of considerable importance, and the removal of the roots from the beds should not be deferred till the stalks die down completely. It is best to lift them when the leaves turn yellow, and cut away the decaying flower-stems to within 6 inches of the bulbs, and the latter should then be placed in a cool airy place to dry. They should be put in drawers, baskets, or bags when ready, and be laid in a modei'ately cool and dry place, each variety being kept separately and distinct, and correctly named. Frost must be guarded against, for a severe one will cause many of the bulbs to rot. In such a place the roots can remain till planting time comes round again, examining them occasionally to see that no harm results from damp. When the bulbs are lifted it will be found that some of them have formed a few smaller bulb offsets, while others will have produced round the base a larger number of roots of small size, denominated " spawn." In the former case the offsets may be allowed to adhere to the bulbs till thoroughly dry or wanted for planting ; in tho Yucca Treculeana. latter case the spawn should be removed when the bulbs become dry. If it is desired to save the spawn of choice varieties, it should be planted out closely together in a prepared bed in the spring ; and, if some attention be given it during the summer months, such as keeping the plantation free from weeds, watering, &c, a good many of the spawn bulbs will grow sufficiently strong to flower the second year. Most cultivators of the Gladiolus like to try their hands at raising seedlings. It is not a difficult matter, and seed is freely borne and ripened. Seed saved from the best varieties may be sown early in April, either in pans or shallow boxes, or in prepared soil of a fine and rich character in the open ground. When the plants begin to show themselves, they should be encouraged with a little weak manure-water, occasionally administered. When large enough to be transplanted, they should be planted out in beds, about 4 inches apart each way, in some good light soil, and encouraged to make all the growth possiblo during the season. A large number of the seedlings will flower the second or third year from the time of raising. As to kinds, the following are fine in quality and distinct in character — viz., Ada, salmon-red, white throat ; Beauty of England, white, with purple throat; Coronet, bright red, the throat flamed with white ; Distinction, orange-rose, purple throat; Grandeur, blush, flaked with carmine, extra fine ; Julia, pink, suffused towards the edges with carmine, and very purple flakes, very fine ; Lord Derby, crimson, very fine ; Medina, flesh, flaked with violet ; Miss Warren, cerise, with white throat, very beautiful ; Modesta, crimson, shaded with maroon, very fine ; Mr. Greenville, violet-rose, striped with lilac, very fine and striking ; Mrs. Stuckey, clear rose, tinted with violet, and flaked with purple, beautiful ; Pluto, orange-scarlet, yellow throat, very fine ; Opalia, orange-rose, the yellow throat flaked with violet-rose, very fine ; Orphee, rose, flamed with carmine ; Plauda, crim. son, the white throat blotched with violet; Prince Arthur, white, flaked with lilac-purple, very fine ; Remarkable, lilac, flaked and mottled with pur- ple, very distinct ; Robert Fortune, carmine, flamed with crimson in the throat ; Senti- nel, purplish. rose, flaked with lake ; Sybil, canary.orange, throat striped violet ; Titus, lilac, flaked with violet ; Vir- ginalis, pure white, bordered and flamed with rose ; and Volano, dark rose, flaked with a darker hue, pale throat. Messrs. Kelway and Mr. Sampson, in this country, and M. Souchet in France, have made Gladiolus culture a speciality, and many fine kinds have been raised by them. Prominent among French varieties of recent date may be named the following, all of which are distinct and fine, viz. :— Ambrose Verschaffelt, Asmodee, Belladonna, Humboldt, Delicatissima, Eva, Horace Vernet, Jupiter, L'Unique, Madame Desportes, Marechal Vaillant, Margarita, Mary Stuart, Michel Ange, Minerva, Mozart, Octavia, Ondine, Ossiau, Blanche, Rosa Bonheur, Sappho, Semiramis, Sir John Franklin, Sultana, Talisman, Variabilis, Venus, and Zelinda. Quo. YUCCA TRECULEANA. Tnis species, represented in the accompanying illustration, is one of the most remarkable of its kind as regards general appearance and the size to which its leaves attain. The stem, which is about 10 inches in diameter, is furnished all round with leaves about 3 feet 6 inches long, straight, thick, deeply fluted, and tapering off to a sharp point. They are dentated at the edges, which are of a reddish- brown colour. The flower stem, which rises upwards of a yard, consists of a mass of branchlets about 18 inches in length, bearing mul- titudes of cream-coloured flowers, shining as if glazed. This variety of Yucca originally came from Texas, whence it was brought by Mr. Trecul about the year 1850, and it grows so luxuriantly that it is not rare to see specimens of it measuring over G feet in diameter. 28 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 9, 1875. THE FRUIT GARDEN. GEAPE VINES. (second year's treatment.) At this stage it will be necessary to say a few words on the subject of temperature. On this point, a few noteworthy fruit-growers allow considerable latitude, preferring rather to be guided by circumstances and weather conditions, than by hard and fast rules. With the Vine, however, in the earlier stages of forcing, unnaturally, not to say injuriously, high night temperatures have been the rule hitherto, though a certain reaction appears to be setting in in this respect. If we com- pare the night temperatures generally recommended for the Vine, from the starting period till the setting of the fruit, it will be found, that they far exceed the average night tempera- ture during the same period of growth in those countries most favourable to the Vine ; and what makes the matter worse, these excessively high temperatures are given under circumstances which only increase their power of mischief ; as, for instance, when the Vine is forced in a Vinery under our cloudy skies, and during the long dark nights of winter and spring. When the Vine is growing, the night temperature must, of course, bear some proportion to that of the day ; but night is the period of rest to plants, which rest means a suspension of those exciting influences — heat and light — under which, combined, perfect growth can only take place. Physiologists tell us, and experience proves, that though the shoots will lengthen nearly as much by night as by day, under a disproportionately high temperature, no new material is formed. What takes place is, in the words of Dr. Lindley, " simply an extension of the tissue formed during the day," and the consequences are weak wood and foliage, that can ill resist the parching effects of hot-water pipes, a feeble constitution, insect attacks, and other evils, in the way of scorching &c, that the gardener is only too familiar with. Bearing these facts in mind, I have deviated considerably from the beaten tract, and have, when hard firing would have been necessary to sustain the desired temperature, subjected all sorts of Vines, and notably Muscats, at all stages, between the starting of the Vines and the setting of the fruit, to a night temperature, that would at one time have been considered so low as to be fatal to the setting process, and injurious to the Vines generally, but with results so actually favourable to the health of the Vines, and the setting of the berries, that I adhere to the practice in all cases, and have no hesitation in recommending it to others, as being probably most in accordance with Nature, safe, and, without doubt, the most economical as regards fuel. I have repeatedly subjected Muscats to a temperature of from 50° to 55° at night, for a fortnight at a time, according to the weather, from the time the flowers first opened till all the berries were set, damping the house as usual, and occasionally syringing the Vines and bunches in the afternoon, and the berries have invariably set as thick as Hamburghs generally do. I put the success down simply to the sturdy vigour acquired by the shoots and bunches, through the absence of high and stimulating night temperatures, for I depart but very little from the usual day temperature. One fact, which I regard as conclusive evidence that a low, or resting night temperature is favourable to the fertilisation of the berries, is the number of stones or seeds they contain. Under high and dry setting temperatures I have never found the berries of Muscats to contain more than two or three seeds, but since I adopted low temperatures I find the average number is about four, and not unfrequeutly they contain five. In practice, therefore, instead of adopting a night temperature, which, iu the usual acceptation of the term, means reaching the mini- innm about dusk, and sustaining it by fire-heat, if necessary, till the following morning, the rule should be to reckon the maximum at noon, and the minimum at sunrise, as I pointed out in your last issue. Further particulars will be given when we proceed to the details of the second years' treatment, and the directions given under this head will also bo applicable to subsequent years. The beginning of March is soon enough to start the Vines the second year. Before this the Vinery should bo thoroughly washed with soap and water. The Vines also may bo washed, though 1 never found painting and dressing exert the least influence in checking spider and other insects, if the treatment generally was such as to encourage these vermin ; consequently, I never take the trouble of scraping and painting the canes before starting. The Vines may be unslung and laid horizontally along the wires, in order to induce the regular breaking of the buds, but, with well-ripened Vines, started about the natural season, this practice is not absolutely necessary. The inside border should first receive a good soaking with water at a temperature of 75° or 80°, and afterwards be covered with a bed of leaves (if these can be procured), laying them in a ridge along the middle of the border, or between the rows of Vines ; but taking care that they are not packed against the stems of the Vines, as it causes the latter to emit roots at the wrong place. For similar reasons the heaps should be turned at least once a month, as the roots are sure to takejpossession of the leaves if this be not done, and will have to be sacrificed when the leaves are removed in autumn. For the first fortnight no fire-heat will be required at night, unless the weather is severe ; but on cold dull days it will be necessary to apply a little heat in order to raise the temperatui'e to 55° or 60°, and in bright days it may be allowed to go up to 70° or 75°, always observing the directions given under the head of airing and damping, &c. The object should always be to apply heat with light ; if the temperature falls before sunrise to 40°, or even to 35°, no damage whatever need be apprehended. As to temperature generally, it will suffice to state here that a rise of about 2Q per week should be allowed, until the night tempe- rature reaches 70° or 75°, and the day temperature 85° or 90°, according to the varieties grown. This is allowing the maximum to be reached in about three months from the time of starting. I give this scale simply as a general guide, which might be strictly adhered to if the weather out of doors advanced steadily at the same rate ; but this cannot be depended on, and of course a considerable abatement must be made on dull days and cold nights, when very hot pipes would be required to sustain the temperature at the proper figure. On such occasions an abatement of 5°, 7°, or 10° on the above scale will never do harm, but good, especially at nights, always making up for any loss in this way by going about as much above the scale in fine days, by shutting up early, and also by firing, if necessary, with sunshine. It will be found in practice that this compensatory system is the safest, and in every way the best, in this fickle climate of ours, with the Vine when grown under glass. Having given these directions, it will only be necessary for me now to speak of the training of the Vines and thinning of the fruit. As soon as the Vines have fairly burst their buds, they must be moved from their horizontal position, and tied to the wires in their proper places. The treatment of the permanent plants consist in carrying the leading shoots forward to the top of the house and there stopping them, as in the previous year ; the side laterals must also be pinched as before directed, for these will push strongly when the leader is stopped. Those shoots which break from the last year's wood, below the base of the leader, should be stopped at the fourth or fifth joint; any bunches they show must be removed, and when they will bend without breaking, they may be tied to the wires. As to the supernumeraries : when it is seen which buds are the strongest, and which show the most promising bunches, they should be thinned by rubbing off the weakest with the finger and thumb, so as to have the shoots about 9 inches apart on each side, and they should be stopped one or two joints before the bunch, and tied to the wires when they will bear it ; care must be taken that they do not come iu contact with the glass before this can be done. After this period the treatment consists in pinching the laterals regularly at every joint, and thinning out the wood occasionally as it gets crowded, so as to expose every leaf to a good light. The front row of supernumeraries will have no room to extend themselves at the point, but the back row may be allowed to make a few feet of young wood in order to increase the bearing area the following year. When the Vines come into flower, extra care will be required in giving air so as to prevent sudden gusts of cold air, or great fluctuation of temperature during the day; otherwise no different treat- ment as regards temperature, syringing, or damping, is Jan. 9, 1875.] THE GARDEN. 29 required ; the Vinery at this stage, as at other times, should be allowed to get dry during, the greater part of the day, except when the usual sprinkling of the paths and borders, &c, takes place to preveut aridity, as before recommended. As soon as the berries are fairly set the number of bunches should be reduced to from four to six on each Vine, according to the size of the bunches and the vigour of the Vines, but with an ejse to their even distributiou over each plaut. Thinning the Berries. All the bunches will not set simultaneously ; but thinning must commence with the earliest set bunches before the berries are much larger than pin-heads (except in the case of Muscats and shy-setting varieties, which must be left until it is seen which berries are taking the lead), and it will be found by far the least laborious practice to follow it up as fast as the bunches set. It is difficult to give written instructions as to thinning, as much depends upon varieties and the vigour of the Vines, &c. ; but, as a rule, Hamburghs and Muscats, and all the large-berried kinds, will require from three-quarters of an inch to one inch of space, cubic measure, to each berry, and other varieties a little less. Asa rule, the inexperienced operator errs by leaving far too many berries ; a bunch of Black Ham- burghs, for instance, when thinned properly, looks to be simply decimated to the non-professional eye ; but all good Grape growers use the scissors freely, and cut out from one- half to three-fourths of the berries in well-set bunches. The opei'ator should begin with a pair of cleau, sharp, and easy- working scissors, and with a smooth peg or stem of a Vine-leaf in the left hand and the scissors in the right, he should begin at the bottom of the bunch and work up to the top, easing the shoulders with the peg while he works the scissors, and, as far as possible, doing the thinning by cutting out the small berries and leaving the big ones, always remembering that most room is made by cutting out the inner berries. Cutting off the berries at the extremities of the shoulders only reduces the size of the bunch without easing the others to any extent. After thinning, the treatment is only a question of tempera- ture, airing, damping, pinching, &c, as before directed. The temperature should not be lowered till the Grapes are ripe ; but, after that, it may be gradually reduced with increased ventilation and a much drier atmosphere, until fire-heat is entirely discontinued, except when it may be necessary to expel damp for the sake of the fruit. J. S. W." (To be continued.) RIPENING OP THE WOOD IN PEACHES AND NECTARINES. In its natural state the Peach tree grows as a standard, and we can conceive that under the bright sky of Persia — its native country — every twig or leaf must have the full benefit of the light and air, and that the wood and budg must consequently be thoroughly matured. Perfect maturation is all that the most favourable climatic conditions can accomplish, and is in fact the whole secret of success. In this country the ripening of the wood is the chief difficulty we have to contend with ; this important end secured, good crops of fruit annually should be a certainty, were over-cropping avoided, andordinary precau- tions taken against accidents during the flowering season. Half the failures that occur may safely be put down to ill-conditioned imma- ture growth, and all beginners in Peach culture should realise this fact at the outset, and get to understand what maturity means, and what a well-ripened Peach-shoot is like. In our insular climate, the thorough maturation of the wood is not always easily secured, even with the assistance of glass and hot-water pipes. With Peaches that are forced early there should be no difficulty in this respect, oner would think ; but often enough these fail from the same cause, brought about by bad training and mismanagement. A well-drained border, a strong firm soil, enriched as often as needful, heat, light, and air, are the essentials needed to reduce the crude juices of the plant to the hardened tissue and plump buds which alone can produce fruit of good quality. There is a reluctance among many to manure Peach borders ; but manure will do no harm where the roots have to push their way through a hard medium, and where heat and light are brought to bear upon the wood and foliage in propor- tionate intensity. The most remarkable Peaches for size and quality I ever saw were produced by trees that were annually highly manured by mulching or otherwise, and where strong wood) well ripened, with evenly distributed vigour, was aimed at and secured by high temperature and thin training. One of the most prevalent mistakes in Peach culture on walls and trellises is thick training. It is the rule, almost without exception, to lay the wood in so thickly during the growing season that the trellis is completely thatched, and quite impervious to the light. The leaves on the upper side of the branches only get the full benefit of the light, but those on the under side are in the dark, and they are so crowded together between the shoots that they actually become to a certain extent blanched. Now, what result, other than failure, partial or complete, can be expected from such treatment ? Tiees trained to a trellis inside a lean-to structure are already disadvantageously placed as regards exposure to the light and air, and the evil can only be compensated for by careful training and ventilation. Par too much wood is, as a rule, laid on during summer, through nervous anxiety to provide an ample supply of heavy wood for the following season — the operator calculating upon reducing the quantity at the winter pruning, should it be necessary ; and in this way future success is sacrificed for a purely imaginary gain in the meantime. Crowding produces two or three indifferently matured spindly shoots for one that is thoroughly so. The shoots should be wide enough apart, when in full foliage, to permit a free play of light and air among the leaves. Though the shoots may appear to be thinly distributed, the chances of a healthy blossom, a thick-set and a heavy crop of fruit, are increased tenfold. A healthy Peach shoot, when in leaf, measures 1 foot or more across — i. e., the leaves are about 2 inches diameter, 6 or 7 inches long, and are borne about 1 inch apart on the shoots. If growths of such luxuriance are tied into a trellis, which exposes only one side to the light, about 2 inches apart— as is commonly done —is it possible for each leaf, upon the healthy development of which everything depends, to have more than a mere modicum of justice ? I leave Peach-growers to study this question. Here I give each summer shoot 6 inches to itself, though I admit a foot would not be too much. At the same time I untie all the branches, great and small, in winter, lay them out easily on the trellis, in which position the shoots all stand up towards the glass, and are swayed to and fro with each puff of air ; and they are left in this condition till the trees are disbudded the last time and the fruit stoned. They are then tied to the trellis in the usual way ; but I never aim at geometrical precision in training — straight-lacing is always to be condemned. Lay the shoots in easily, never tie them too near the point, and always take care that the growing point is well up and exposed to the light. During the growing season, whenever you think the shoots are getting too crowded, cut them out without fear. Always see that the sun shines through between the branches upon the floor beneath. This is a pretty safe rule. Trees trained in thi3 way 'should require little or no pruning in winter ; that is, presuming the young shoots are left entire, and not tortured at all. Not of less importance to their training, as an aid to maturation, is ventilation. Providing the proper temperature can be maintained, and avoiding cold draughts, the ventilation can never be too abundant. Too much moisture in the air is prej udicial, more particularly with a high night temperature. Plenty of water at the roots is essential ; and when this is secured, damping and syringing is quite unnecessary, unless it be practised with a view to keep down insects, or to counteract the scorching influence of very hot pipes. When hard firing is not neces- sary the air is always moist enough for Peaches. It is a dry sunny atmosphere which produces that dark leathery foliage, and jointed brown. coloured wood with plump buds, which alone indicate perfect ripening. J. S. GRAFTED ORCHARDS. Grafted orchards, apparently, do not pay, if we may judge from the following extracts from fa letter in the Mirror and Farmer : — My orchard is a good one ; the trees are thrifty and bear well. I set them out and grafted them myself nearly twenty years ago, and for eighteen years I have tended, cultivated, and manured them ; but were I going to live my life over again I would never try to raise another large orchard of grafted fruit. Why ? Because it does not pay. My orchard will yield a hundred barrels of Baldwins, which, at 8s. a barrel, will bring in £40, and this, you may imagine, is all profit. But, when you come to look into the matter, you will find that that is not the case. For the expenses of picking, sorting, barrelling, and drawing come to £17 10s., and if you divide the remainder by two — for the trees only bear every other year — you have about £11 5s. as the income of the best field I have, which had to be cultivated ten years, and which now has to be manured to raise a good crop of Grass. But the kind of orcharding that does pay is this : On a hill, not far from my field, is a number of old scraggy Apple trees loaded with Apples about as large as pullets' eggs, not one of which is fit to be eaten raw or cooked ; yet more money is made out of them than out of my Baldwins, which, had I 30 THE GARDEN. [Jan, 9, 1875. my wish, I would change into the old-fashioned trees yielding fruit only fit to be made into cider. Cider is the best paying crop I have. There is no particular secret about making cider, and yet its quality depends very much upon how it is made and what it is made out of. In the first place you cannot make first-rate cider out of windfall grafts. I do not know why, btt so it is. If I were going to make a premium barrel of cider I would take sound fruit and have, if convenient, part of it sweet, then grind it in a mill that crushes instead of cuts the Apples ; let the pomace stand in the trough twenty-four hours, and "cheese " it with clean Rye straw. When it comes to barrelling the main thing is to get a sweet clean barrel, that is, if you want pure cider to drink during the winter or spring ; but if you want a drink for next summer or next year which is as stout as old rum, you can get it by putting in a pound of sugar to every gallon of cider. Grapes Travelling without Packing Material. — Mr. Thomson has sent many tons of Grapes from Clovenfords to London without anv packing between the bunches, and, I have been told in Covent Garden, that such packages arrived in as fine condition as if the fruit had never been packed. The baskets used for this purpose hold about 16 lb. of Grapes. Previous to placing the fruit in them, a thin layer of paper shavings is laid over the bottom and all around the edges of the basket, after which, filling is begun at one end, the bunches being put into position closely, and gently pressed against each other until the basket is full; on the slightest concussion the berries work themselves into the vacant Bpaces, and the whole becomes, as it were, one huge bunch. Besides the safety to the fruit, this system has other advantages — all expensive packing material is saved, and a considerably greater quantity of fruit can be got into a given space than when packing is employed ; something, however, should always be placed between the basket and the fruit. Largo quantities are easier packed thus than small samples ; but both may be sent in this way, at any time, and any kind will withstand such carriage. Cotton, or any other kind of wadding, should never be placed in contact with Grapes, unless they have previously been carefully wrapped up in a clean sheet of tissue paper. — M. St. Michael Pine-apples. — These were but scantily imported when I used to visit Covent Garden ; the principal supplies of this fine fruit then came from the West Indies, and, in my opinion, were greatly inferior to home-grown produce. This fact, I imagine, has led many to suppose that the qualities of the St. Micheal Pines have been overrated ; but owing to the way in which they are culti- vated there, and the careful manner in which they are imported, I can easily believe that they are good in quality. There is one statement made in reference to them, however, which I cannot clearly under- stand, and that is their being great favourites with dealers on account of their being invariably sounder at the core than fruit grown at home. St. Michael Pines are grown quite in a natural way, and these being sound at the core indicates that any decay found in home-grown fruit must be the result of artificial appliances, and what I would like to have fully explained is, how black-hearted, ness occurs. I have previously stated that I am convinced that any discolouration at the heart is the direct result of over-watering and of giving water after the fruit had begun to colour. This opinion was, however, contradicted. British fruit-growers, and young Pine-growers in particular, will, however, now be somewhat galled to know that foreign Pines are sought after in the market on account of their superiority over their own productions. Such being the case, I trust that those who are so ready to confute well-grounded propositions will no longer keep the "true cause" of this black, heartedness a secret, but will publicly explain the whole matter. It is not just to suppose that this rottenness is confined to fruit furnished by market growers only. — J. Muir. NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE FRUIT GARDEN. Raisin de Calabria and other Late Grapes.— Mr. Thomson states, in the Gardener, that ho has at present the Raisin Ue Calabria moro of a golden colour than any Muscat or other Grape he has ever ripened; and, ho adds, that in quality, such sorts as Huekland's Sweetwater and Foster's Seedling, among earlies, are only third-rate in ilavour in comparison with Haisin de Calabria. The very same remarks apply with equal force to Trcbbiano and Syrian, and to that nobleBt-looking of all late black Grapes, Grou 1 man. Wben well ripened, Alieantes and Lady Downes for the months of November, December, and January, are not worth eating as compared with i ' ilman. The New Yellow-barked Peach Tree.— This is emphatically recommended for general culture by M. Oarrlflre, editor of tho Ttrrue Sortieole, It is per- fectly hardy, its constitution is robust, and its fruit largo and of excellent flavour. Tho yellow bark rtndera tho tree an ornamental object in winter. THE LI BR A R Y. THE INSECT* Few scientific writers have the peculiar ability to divest their subject of what the general reader would call hard, dry minutiifi, and clothe it with the charms of poetry that must appeal to all who are lovers of the beautiful. M. Michelet is, however, one of these, and in this, the last of his remarkable works, he has, if possible, excelled himself, and has given the world a book that, for beauty of thought, for elegance of language, and for the pure scientific knowledge that forms the basis of both, must render it a favourite both with the student of pure entomology, and with those who content themselves with a less profound but none the less charming acquaintance with the marvels of insect creation. M. Michelet has, ere this, been accused of errors and inaccuracies that a more practical and less imaginative writer would, it is said, have avoided. The accusation may, in a remote degree, be deserved, but this by no means decreases the general value of the work, for the errors are rather those of exaggeration in description than of any want of knowledge or absolute perversion of fact, and the playful fancy that gives the book so attractive a form will find its reward in the number of those who are likely, after its perusal, to take up the study of a physical science that it has been too much the fashion to decry on account of its alleged uninviting details. M. Michelet shows that a close observation of these details may be carried on side by side with, and, in fact, be the result of the tenderest sympathy with the minute objects of his interest, and that it is quite possible to give the reins to deep, impulsive, poetic feeling, and yet be fairly analytic and philosophical ; this much we may say of the book itself without any wish to give more praise than is justly due. > tea i§ The Woodpecker. With respect to the illustrations, with which the work abso- lutely teems, it wouid be impossible to say too much in their favour. The fact that they are drawn by Giacomelli is a sufficient guarantee that they approach as near as possible to perfection. They must, however, be seen, for no description can convey an idea of their excellence both as regards drawing and engraving. We give two of these woodcuts as examples, with the accompanying letterpress, which will enable the reader to form his own opinion both of the beautiful language of M. Michelet and the artistic skill of M. Giacomelli. Of the Forest of Fontainebleau, M. Michelet writes as follows : Even in the hours of silence, the forest occasionally finds a voice, a sound or a murmur which recalls to yon the remembrances of life. Sometimes the industrious woodpecker, laboriously toiling at its task of excavating the Oak, cheers itself with its singular cry. Frequently the heavy hammer of the quarryman falling and falling on the sandstone, resounds in the distance with a hoarse dull echo ; and, finally, if you listen attentively, you catch a significant hum and see at your feet legions of ants — countless populations, the true inhabitants of the place, speeding over the withered and falling leaves. So many images are these of persistent toil, which blend with the fanciful a serious gravity. Each in his own way digs and digs, and do thou, too, pursue thy work and exhume and stir up thy thought. Writing of the nymph or chrysalis, M. Michelet gives us the following remarks upon that wonder of metamorphoses : In truth it is a thing to confound and almost to terrify the imagination to think that a gnat, at the outset no bigger than a thread, should include in itself all tho elements of its moultings and metamorphoses; should contain its triple and even octuple envelopes ; nay, moro, the Bhcath or case of its nymplia, and its * " The Insoct." By Jules Michelet. With 140 Illustrations by Giacomelli. London : T. Nelson & Sons, Paternoster Row. Jan. 9, 1875.] THE GAKDEfr. si complete butterfly are folded up in another, with an immense apparatus of vessels — respiratory and digestive — of nerves for feeling, and muscles for moving. A prodigious system of anatomy ! first traced out in complete detail in Lyonnet's colossal work on the Willow Gnat. The two-fold monster, endowed with a strong grub, stomach for the destruction of innumerable hard leaves, will possess, ere long, a light and delicate apparatus for extracting the honey of flowers. And yet the clothed creature which contains in its organism a complete silk manufactory, will almost immediately sweep away the complex system. One knows the gentle manoeuvres by which Nature conducts the young of the higher animals from the embryonic existence to the independent life, adapting the old organs to new functions. Here this is not done. It is not a simple change of condition. The destination is not merely different, but contrary, with a violent contrast. Therefore, instruments fitted for an entirely novel existence are required, and the abolition and definitive sacrifice of ^s^_ ~^Z the primitive organism. The revolution which, for all other beings is so well concealed, is here entirely thrown open ; and we are enabled to scrutinise with our eyes this astonishing operation in numerous grubs which undergo the great change in the light of day, suspended to the branch of a tree by a silken cable. The effort is worthy of our admiration and pity. To see yonder nymph, short and feeble, soft and gelatinous, with. out arms or paws, con- triving, by the skill with which it expands and con- tracts its rings, to escape from the heavy and rough machine which it was at first, flinging aside its limbs, setting free its head, and — one hardly dares to record the fact — throwing off its body and rejecting many of its principal in- ternal organs ! This little body, when it has thus escaped from its long heavy mask (living, nevertheless, but a moment since a life full of energy) will dangle and grow dry and skilfully ascend to its silken fasten- ing. There it prepares to fix itself in a new " me " as a nymph, while its former " me " tossed about by the wind, is speedily driven I know not wither. All is, and ought to be, changed. The legs will not again be the legs. It will need lighter organs. What can the child of the air, which can balance on the point of a blade of Grass, do with these coarse short feet armed with hooks, vent holes, and so many heavy implements ? Calepteryx Virgo. The Snowberries. — Botanists and gardeners alike have got things a little confused in regard to these plants. Dr. Asa Gray has recently contributed a paper to the " Linnean Society's Journal," clearing up some matters in relation to the botanical question j and we, Gardeners' Monthly, may as well say a few words as to the other. The common red Snowberry of our garden— the Indian Currant of some localities — is usually referred to in our nursery catalogues as Symphoria glomerata. This is Pursh's name. The generally accepted name is that of Michaux, which is Symphoricarpus vulgaris. It is rather common in shrubberies, but not so much so as it deserves to be. Dr. Gray makes eight species; but this is the only one with red fruit. Dr. Gray, however, describes a new species found in Nevada, with flowers half an inch long, which he names S. longiflorus. Its fruit is probably white. The other species — common in gardens — is the white Snowberry, S. racemosus, of Michaux. These two are the only ones that seem so far to have got into cultivation. There is another species allied to the white Snowberry, which grows west of the Mississippi, and east of the Rocky Mountains, which is a stronger grower than that in our gardens, and is worth introducing. This is S. occidentalis of R. Brown. There is another very pretty little bushy species in Colorado, which most of us who have collected have named in our herbariums S. montanus. This Dr. Gray now refers to one previously named by him in Wight's Plants of Texas, S. rotundi. folius. The true S. montanus is a Mexican species. Three supposed Mexican ones, including S. montanus, are united under the one name S. microphyllus. The other species not yet in cultivation, is S. mollis, of Nuttall, iu California, and S. oreo- ^"~\^ philus, which also has been ^^^ confused with S. rotundi- folius, as S. montanus in Colorado herbariums. In the paper Dr. Gray has some interesting observa- tions on the nature of the fruit, showing that it is not a berry, as some botan. ists believe, but a species of drupe. Movement of the Sap in Plants.— Dr. M'Nab, of Dublin, has been making a further series of experi- ments on the amount of transpiration from the loaves of plants and on the ascent of sap through the stem, with the follow- ing results, the plants ex- perimented on being the Cherry Laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) , Privet, and Elm : — 1. That under favourable circumstances a rate of ascent of 40 inches in the hour can be ob- tained. 2. That, contrary to the generally received opinion, direct experiment has shown that the upward rapid current of sap does not cease in the evening. 3. That checking the tran. spiration for a short time by placing the branch in darkness does not materi- ally retard the rapid cur- rent of water. 4. That the removal of the cortical tissues does not impede the rapid current in tho stem, which moves only through the wood portion of the fibro-vascular bun- dles. 5. That a well- marked rapid flow of fluid will take place in a stem after the removal of the leaves. 6. That fluid will rapidly flow downwards as |well as upwards in the wood portion of the fibro- vascular bundles, as seen in a branch in which lithium citrate was applied at the top. 7. That pressure of mercury does not exert any very marked influence on the rapidity of flow, in the one experiment made with a pressure of 11053 grammes of mercury. Dr. M'Nab points out with great force the disad- vantage under which research in vegetable physiology labours in this country, from the fact that neither at Dublin nor elsewhere is there a physiological laboratory in connection with a botanical garden, a conjunction always necessary for the carrying out of original research. Physiological botany may, indeed, be said to be comparatively at a standstill in this country on this account. Some time ago, the idea was mooted of adding a laboratory to the herbarium at Kew, but, from some inexplicable cause, the project was abandoned. 32 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 9, 1875. THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. By THOMAS BAINES. Destroying Insects in Frosty Weather.— It is generally thought that a severe winter is destructive to insect life, and so it probably is to some extent ; but by far the greater number of our worst garden pests get sufficiently deep down in the earth to be out of the reach of frost. There is, however, a means of effec- tually dealing with such as have taken up their winter quarters in uncropped ground. On a hard frosty day let it be broken up with a pick to the depth to which it is frozen, turning the lumps up as large and rough as possible, so as to be quite open, and thereby expose the under surface still further to the influence of frost. This will not only destroy thousands of slugs, snails, wireworms, and the larvaa of similar pests, but it will, at the same time, aerate and pulverise the ground to a depth that cannot be reached by any other means, thereby improving its condition for cropping. Manuring— Use of Salt.— There is nothing in a garden that partakes more of the penny-wise principle than attempting to grow vegetables on land insufficiently manured. The amount of manure used by market gardeners, who are not likely to make mistakes in this matter, is almost incredible. On well manured ground vegetables grow quicker, and are much more tender and juicy thau when produced on poor land. It therefore becomes a question with the amateur what manures he is to use ; if he is so situated as to have enough horse, cow, or pig manure, without purchasing, these will, in a great measure supply all his wants ; if, on the other hand, he has to purchase, I should advise him to use some proportion of light manures, of which refuse salt is an excel, lent fertiliser, and is especially to be recommended for dry hot soils, C°u-reiCtmg' aS ifc does' to some extent their aridity by the moisture which it retains in the soil. It constitutes a suitable change for land that has received heavy dressings of stable.dnng for a lengthened period. It should be applied during the winter months —the earlier the better, as it thereby gets time to dissolve, and thus becomes dispersed more evenly through the soil, rendering the land in better condition for cropping than it otherwise would be, as, if the salt lies together in any considerable quantities, it would destroy such newly-sprouting seeds as came in contact with it. From half to three.fourths of a pound per square yard is a good dressing, and the latter quantity should not be exceeded. It must not be used within a yard or so of Box edgings, or it will be liable to injure the Box. Improving the Soil of Suburban Gardens.— The innumer- able small and middle-sized gardens in the neighbourhood of ]arge towns are often deficient in two important matters, one of which is an insufficiency of soil, which generally gets buried by cold unfertile clay, taken out of the foundations of buildings, and which, instead of being put under the surface soil, by removing the latter to admit of the work being done properly, is cast on the top or mixed with it ; again, where the land is naturally heavy and retentive, it may be improved by mixing it with road grit or scrapings, or any- thing of a similar character that can be obtained cheap. A mistaken notion prevails, that nothing will improve such soils except good loam, and where that can be had cheaply by all means use it ; but, where it cannot bo got, anything of a character similar to the above will be found of great assistance. The other unfavourable condition to which many small gardens are subject is the presence of stagnant water, owing to an insufficiency of drainage. This is particularly the case in heavy soils, and for a kitchen garden, where the production of early vegetables depends, in a great measure, upon the ground being dry and warm, requires the drains to be much closer than is necessary for some purposes. In a garden the drains should not be farther apart than 15 feet; the depth to drain is another important consideration, varying, as it does, with the character of the soil. Three feet may be taken as a good average depth; a 2-inch pipe will be found largo enough to carry off the water, which it will generally do better than such as are larger. When laid, place on the top of the pipe a foot in depth of any material in the shape of brick rubbish or refuse from the greenhouse fires. Such drains should always, as far as possible, run straight down hill, not, as was once the practice, diago- nally. Amateurs having insufficiently drained gardens, are often deterred from commencing such operations under the impression that they are costly ; such, however, is not the case. Frozen Vegetables.— Cauliflower plants in frames, and under hand-lights, especially tho latter, should be carefully shaded from the sun.or they will be much more likely to bo killed by it than by frost ; old mats that are too far worn to bo of use in other ways will anHwor the purposo for covering the lights, and stablo litter will do for tho hand-lights, around which nothing is so good as Spruce branches stuck in tho ground sufficiently firm not to bo removed by wind. Lettuco should be troated in a similar mannor, both in frames and under walls; in the latter situation, boards laid on their edge slanting over, but not so as to touch the plants, and a good sprinkling of Spruce branches stuck in over all will be found to be useful ; a few of the latter stuck amongst spring Cabbages will also cost little labour, and will frequently prevent the crop from being much injured. Attention to these and similar small matters constitutes the difference in gardening between successful and indifferent results. Should frost again set in, see that Potatoes, Beet, and Carrots, in stores are not frozen ; dry litter or straw is the best material with which to cover them. Now is a good time to procure and prepare Pea sticks, and also those wanted for Runner Beans ; by doing this work thus early, time is saved later on, when it is required more directly in attending to other matters. Early Cucumbers. — Where means exist of growing early Cucumbers, either in a plant stove or heated pit, in which a tempera, ture of 60" can be maintained at night, it is not a bad practice to sow a few seeds three different times during the month, as, if any- thing happens to the earliest sown plants, there are others to fall back upon. They are much the best sown singly in small pots, as by this method there is no mutilation of the roots by dividing the plants when re-potting. Put a small bit of flaky leaf soil or fibrous loam in the bottom of each pot ; this will be drainage enough for the short time during which the plants remain in pots before being removed. Ordinary loam, with one-fourth of sifted leaf mould and a little sand, will be suitable material in which to sow the seed, which should not be covered more than half an inch, or fill the pots more than two-thirds full of soil at the time of sowing ; this will leave room to add more when the plants have attained a few inches in height, and will induce them to throw out roots up the stem, which tend much to strengthen them. For ordinary purposes, few sorts equal the Telegraph, where it can be had true. It is an abundant and continuous bearer, but so free is it that, if the fruits are not well thinned, the plants will soon exhaust themselves with overbearing. The Greenhouse. — -Place in heat Hyacinths, Narcissus, and Crocuses, so as to bring them into flower, but see that they are well supplied with roots before being thus excited, for upon this, in a great measure, depends their ability to flower strongly. Keep them close to the glass, or they will bloom weakly and have a poor appearance. Care, so far as possible, should be taken that the frost does not reach anything that it will injure in either pits or frames, such as bedding plants or general greenhouse stock ; but if it should happen that, through an insufficiency of heating power or an extraordinary severe night, anything should get frozen, the first thing to do should be to get up the heat a few degrees above the freezing point, closely shade the plants, and then syringe them freely overhead with cold water, keeping them as dark as possible for a few days. This mitigates the effects of frost, and, with some things, is effectual if they have not been too much frozen or not in a very luxuriant state of growth, which latter naturally tends to make all plants more susceptible to injury from too low a temperature than when less vigorous. Exhibition Stands for Cut Flowers.— The following is the standard adopted by the Royal Horticultural Society for the stands in which cut flowers are staged at its exhibitions. Such stands should be painted green, or covered with green baize : Length. Breadth. 2 stands . . . 4 ft. 0 in. . . . 1 ft. 6 in. 36 „ . 3 „ 24 . 1 stand 12 • 1 » 24 Gladioli . . 2 stands 12 „ . . 1 stand 21 Asters . • 1 „ Height of stand to bo 6 inches behind and 4 inches in front. Stands for cut Roses and Hollyhocks to be of the same size and height as the foregoing. The Results of the Late Severe Weather.— Now that a change in the weather has taken place, some estimate may be formed of the damage (if any) done by the late severe frost. On the night of the 29th ult. the thermometer here fell to 8°, or 24° of frost, which is the lowest temperature we have experienced since 1870. Fortunately, the covering of snow — assisted in some instances, where necessary, by other materials — has, as far as can be judged at pre- sent, kept things fairly safe. Even Broccoli, that rarely survives when the thermometer falls below 10°, seems to have passed through tho ordeal unscathed. Rain commencod falling in the evening of the 1st inst ; but it froze as fast as it fell, and, on the morning of the 2nd, evory plaoe, walk, road, and stroet, was one complote mass of ice, and locomotion, except on skates, was a work of both danger and difficulty : since then the thaw has been exceedingly rapid, and the snow and ice are fast disappearing. — E. Hobday, Ramsey Abbey. Jan. 9, 1875.] ^s THE GARDEN. M^&i- :.,,_,: :;..-■ 33 :^ occupy the body of a glass structure under ( I -) their shade there must, of necessity, be a \ , '(I compromise as regards general treatment. In times / past, owing to the striking effect which roof- climbers produced, they were often considered to be more important than the general collection of plants grown under them ; from the time when it became a recognised principle in indoor gardening that each plant should receive the treatment requisite to give it an opportunity of, in some measure, exemplifying its natural character, plants for roof embellishment have not been so generally grown as before, and, in many instances have been dispensed with altogether ; but in this, as in mo3t matters of a kindred character, it is in the extremes of indis- criminate use or rejection that the mistake lies. There is no position we can assign to a plant suitable for the purpose, wherein it will be seen to such advantage, or where it adds so much to the appearance of the place it occupies, as trained tastefully on the roof of a plant house, allowing it sufficient freedom to hang in graceful festoons— and in ^such . situations as plants of this description are adapted for, they should fls always be present, it not being possible by any other means to make up for their absence. Before light span-roofed houses were much thought of, or in use, the old lean-to, with its dark heavy roof and high back -wall excluding the light, was a place in which plant life in general had a hard struggle to exist, without the addi- tional light-intercepting influences of roof -climbers, which usually were to be found upon every rafter, each one o? which usually had its separate species of plant, forming a dense mass of growth, meeting its neighbours half-way across the lights, with their small squares and wide dirty laps, the combined influence of which was such as to make the house nothing better than a living sepulchre, in which the other inmates struggled for existence as long as they ~- were able, but ultimately succumbed, and found their way to the rubbish heap, makmg room for others to undergo a similar ordeal, and conclude their existence m a like m|''?1?er- , . such houses as the above roof climbers were out of place ; nothing they could add by then- appearance compensated for the injury they inflicted upon the plants placed underneath them. Great mistakes were, and are now, often made in the selection of particular plants tor this \ J? %■:■ 34 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 9, 1875. roof drapery— large heavy-leaved subjects, such as Passi- flora quadrangularis being employed (in stoves with not much light to begin with)— fine in itself, undoubtedly, but, in addition to its vigorous growth, possessing foliage of such size as to darken everything underneath it. It should always be remembered that the great majority of the different plants we grow in our stoves and temperate plant-houses are indi- genous to countries where they receive much more light than this country affords, without taking into account the light- excluding aud absorbing influences of the best constructed modern plant-houses. Even in the case of such plants as occupy our stoves, which, in their native habitats, are contin- uously under the shade of overhanging evergreen arborescent vegetable life, the light they receive in a state of Nature is quite different from what we can give them in our cloudy atmo- sphere ; a condition further aggravated by the comparatively small amount of fresh air that plants living in a glass erection can receive, especially where an artificial high temperature has to be kept up by the use of fire heat, to the necessary exclusion of air. It then becomes a question where plants should be employed for the purposes of roof drapery and where they should be omitted, as also what plants to select for the pur- pose. In ordinary houses devoted to the growth of green- house subjects, hard or soft-wooded, either as permanently occupying such houses or in preparation for removal to con- servatories, corridors, or similar places, the plants require all the light they can get ; consequently, nothing in the shape of roof climbers should ever be allowed, especially where any attempt is made to grow the plants up to the standard gene- rally required at the present day. If climbers are allowed to grow in such a case as this, they should be used sparingly, and they should be such as will not grow too rampant, be planted at a considerable distance apart, and kept well within bounds. The places where these roof-plants are most appropriate, or rather indispensable, are in houses where a considerable number of the occupants are planted out with a view to produce, as far as possible, natural effects, and in glass-covered corridors. A great number of the plants only remain in such structures as these whilst in flower, and in this state most things do not suffer to any appreciable extent, if not kept too long or too much crowded ; this is consequent upon the comparatively little or no leaf-growth that takes place whilst the plants are flowering ; the different subjects that are usually planted out in the conservatory are generally such as will not receive injury from partial shade, such, for instance, as Camellias, which rather enjoy it in moderation whilst making their growth ; in houses, also, where most of the different subjects grown are planted out with a view to, as far as possible, pro- duce a natural effect; and, to secure such, it is necessary to keep them at a considerable distance apart ; here roof- drapery is indispensable, and can be used to the best advantage. Having considered the situations where these descriptions of plants can be best employed, it will not be out of place to indicate such as are best adapted for the different situations, in largo or small houses, with difference in tem- perature, soil, moisture, &c, required by each. First as to those which require a greenhouse temperature, and are suitable for a cool conservatory or where there is little more heat kept up than will maintain flowering plants through the winter in good condition. Here it may be observed, that many of the best and most suitable are such as do not possess naturally a twining habit, and, consequently, cannot attach themselves to wires or other contrivances for their support. Cool Conservatory Climbers. Taesonia Van Volxemii.— As a plant forroof decoration, which will grow freely, and which can also be kept in moderate bounds with- out using the knife to such an extent as to interfero with its flowering, there are few, if any, plants that surpass this Taesonia; it is a profuse bloomer, its finely -coloured crimson flowers literally hanging in wreaths for months together; the shoots should be allowed to hang down for a yard or two, according to the height at command. Grown in this manner nothing can bo finer ; it requires a fair amount of root-room, in good sandy loam, well drained, with an occasional application of liquid manure, through the growing soason and in the spring the removal of an inch or two of the surface-soii, adding some new, well-enriched with thoroughly rotten manure. After the flower. ing season is over it may be cut in as far as is deemed necessary for the space at command, and the nature of the situation it occupies. T. Sang-uinea is another fine plant much after the general habit of the last. Plumbago capensis. — A plant totally '.different in habit from the foregoing ; a good free grower and bloomer, its flowers, pale blue, are produced in bunches. This forms an excellent contrast to the above ; it is, like them, a comparatively clean plant, not being so subject to insects as some others, but, to grow it well, it must be encouraged by the application of liquid manure, and the yearly addition of fresh surface-soil, otherwise its gets weak, and makes comparatively poor flowers. It is also most suitable for a back wall, or training round a pillar. Lapageria rosea. — This is now well known for the quantities of rosy-crimson bell-shaped flowers it produces when in good con. dition ; it is a plant of moderate growth, that likes a good, rich, sandy loam, well drained, on account of the liberal supply of water it requires when in full growth. It is from the Chilian Andes, found at a considerable elevation, and requires nothing more than protection from frost, but the young shoots are impatient of the direct action of the sun, whilst the leaves are not fully developed, consequently, it should in this stage, have a little shade. The mistake which many at first made in the cultivation of this Lapageria, was in planting it out too soon; a small ordinary trade.sized plant, takes a couple of years to get into a strong state, and, during this time it should be kept in a pot, moving it on into a larger size as the roots require it, and when it gets strong and has plenty of roots to lay hold of the soil in which it is turned out at once, it should be planted out, otherwise, the too great body of earth becomes sour before the roots exist in sufficient quantities to freely extend all through it. Lapageria alba is an exact counterpart of the red variety in every way, except the colour of the flower, which is pure white, and one of the very finest plants ever introduced into the country. Both varieties make fine pillar plants, or to form an arch over a con- servatory path, in which positions their young growth is farther from the roof glass, and not so likely to receive injury from the sun whilst in a tender state. Tecoma capensis is another good climber of moderate growth, but not too rampant. It produces its yellow flowers in bunches, from shoots of moderate strength. It is from the Cape, and succeeds well in sandy loam. It does not require, when once well established, so much assistance at the roots, in the shape of manure-water or rich soil, as some plants ; its shoots being in a pendent form, well answer, ing the purpose of relieving the objectionable appearance of bare rafters. Mandevilla suaveolens. — A free-growing plant from Buenos Ayres, with highly-perfumed, white, trumpet-shaped flowers, pro- duced in bunches from the points of the shoots. It is not so generally known or grown as it ought to bo, requiring a considerable amount of room to fully develop itself ; it needs a moderate amount of root- room, in good turfy sandy loam, assisted through the growing season with liquid manure. The plant is subject to red spider, to keep down which it should be well syringed two or three times a week through the season of growth ; the flowers are fine for cutting. Clematis indivisa. — This is a white-flowered plant, from New Zealand ; it is a very free grower, and a most useful plant for the production of cut flowers, a consideration that should by no means be lost sight of, for if in these roof plants such are grown as will furnish in quantity flowers for cutting, it is an advantage. This is a strong grower, and is suitable for a large house; where it can have space to run, it will grow in any kind of soil, and is not subject to insects. The plant will bear a free use of the knife after flowering. Passifloras are general favourites, and there are several that can be used as cool conservatory roof plants, amongst which may especially be mentioned the free-flowering light-coloured P. onychina, the white P. Hartwegiana, and P. Imperatrice Eugenie, white sepals, and pale pink petals. These are plants of moderate growth, free bloomers, and, from the pendulous habit of the flowering shoots, are well adapted for the purposes under consideration. Acacia pubescens, from New South Wales, and A. lophantha, from New Holland, are fitting subjects for the roof of a conservatory, but are better adapted for a place at the end, especially if such should be a dead wall, as, abutting on a dwelling-house, in such a situation, they produce a fine effect when they reach the roof and are allowed to extend a little. The above Acacias are very distinct in habit ; the latter (A. lophantha) is a fine plant for cutting ; the leaves are almost Fern-like, stand well when cut, and are especially adapted for mixing with cut flowers for the decoration of large vases, for which purpose this plant cannot be surpassed. Hovea Celsi is a native of New Holland, and although seldom used for the purpose, is a beautiful object in flower on a conservatory pillar or a light corner, its deep blue flowers being so distinct ; but Jan. 9, 1875.] THE GAEDBN. 35 where it is the intention to place this Hovea in such a situation, the plant must be first grown to a moderate size before turning out in the open border, so as to have it furnished with a fair amount of roots previously. Cassia corymbosa, from Buenos Ayres, is also a plant very seldom seen planted out in a conservatory, but for covering a wall or pillar it has few equals. Those who have only seen this Cassia grown as a pot specimen cannot form the slightest idea of what it is when allowed sufficient root and head room. So treated, it blooms for six months in the year, its beautiful green healthy foliage setting off the bright yellow flowers to the best advantage. Clianthus magnificus. — This free-flowering form of the Glory Pea makes an excellent pillar.plant ; it is very attractive and distinct, not requiring a great deal of root room, but must, like the other species of this family, be regularly syringed to keep down red spider. The above are a few of the best plants that can possibly be used for furnishing the roof and pillars of a cool conservatory ; many others are often to be met with in such situations. Some very unsuitable, either through their weak habit of growth and insignifi. cant appearance, or the opposite defect of being so rampant as to smother everything under them unless the knife is kept so continu. ously in use as not to allow their ever exhibiting their true character ; it also often happens that plants are recommended as greenhouse climbers that require an intermediate temperature, and do not succeed for want of sufficient heat. A few of the best for an intermediate house I will name and endeavour to describe. Climbers for an Intermediate House. Bougainvillea glabra stands unequalled as a roof-plant, or even if kept within the bounds of a pillar, but the temperature should not in the winter fall below 46° or, if it can be kept to that, 50°. This plant will repay the grower better than any other with which I am acquainted ; it is a vigorous grower, and should have a fair amount of root room ; the points of every shoot it makes will become clothed for a foot or more in length with its lovely mauve, coloured bracts, continuing to open uninterruptedly a succession of flowers for months during the summer and autumn ; it will grow in either peat or loam, but requires liberal feeding with manure-water. Abutilon Due de Malakoff is a strong growing plant, well adapted for a similar temperature, its distinct bell-shaped flowers contrasting well with anything else. The beautiful white variety, Boule de Neige, is also a most desirable plant for a pillar, flowering at almost every leaf it forms, and, if a temperature of 50° is maintained in the night through the winter, it will bloom almost continuously. Habrothamnus elegans is a native of Mexico, and is another useful free-flowering plant, producing its purple flowers in terminal bunches, at the extremity of almost every shoot nearly all the year round, and if kept a little warm through the winter will continue blooming ; it succeeds best in loam. Clerodendron Balfourii is one of the freest growing and equally free flowering plants we possess, little subject to the attacks of insects, bnt will do the best grown in a large pot and kept at the warmest end of the house ; it does not like a lower temperature than 48° or 50°, and in the winter it should have water withheld so as to induce the leaves to ripen and fall off, receiving only a little at long intervals, until it shows signs of the buds swelling in the spring, when the ball should be soaked by steeping it for several hours in a vessel full of tepid water, until it is thoroughly moistened, when it will grow and flower from every joint, after which it may be, as far as desirable, reduced with a knife. Stephanotis floribunda is a universal favourite and will succeed well with similar treatment as far as being grown in a pot goes, but it will not require so much root.room as the Clerodendron ; neither should it have its roots interfered with much, for when it once gets large enough to occupy a pot 15 or 18 inches in diameter, it will not require to be moved for several years, further than seeing that the drainage is right ; give it manure-water once a week during the growing season ; the reason for not turning this plant out into the open border in a situation where the temperature is not kept higher than above indicated during the winter is, that if the roots were placed in a large body of soil there would be a difficulty in keeping it dry enough to preserve them, especially if in soil partially occupied by other plants which would not bear this dry treatment ; this plant, in such a situation, only requires a little water through the winter when the leaves show signs of shrivelling. Jasminum Duchesse d'Orleans — A double white variety, very large and full ; is a plant well worth a place here, but should also be grown in a pot, in saudy loam ; its fragrant flowers are most useful for cutting. Lueulia gratissima from Nepaul — This old but beautiful free- flowering plant is one of the finest to occupy a corner of the inter- mediate house or on a back wall, it well deserves a place, producing, as it does, for a considerable time its large bunches of sweet-scented pink-coloured flowers. Climbers for a Stove. In large stoves, or where a conservatory is kept up to a moderate stove temperature, say not usually lower than 55° in the night during winter, most stove climbers will do even better than where the temperature is correspondingly higher winter and summer, provided the plants are kept tolerably dry at the root when at rest. Many scove-climbers, when grown in a very hot house, especially if planted out, continue growing at such a rate as to appear not to get rest enough to induce a flowering disposition. In a winter temperature, such as above indicated, AUamandas will succeed well in pots, or, if planted out, the space devoted to their roots should be limited, or they are apt to get so strong as to completely smother everything near them. The roots should be for a time during the winter kept quite dry, and the shoots well cut in ; they will bear a free use of the knife. The two varieties most suitable are A. grandiflora and A. Chelsoni, which are the freest flowerers and smallest-leaved sorts ; they suoceed the best in good loam. Hexaeentris mysorensis, from Mysore, is a fine plant for a roof-climber, producing freely its gorgeous raoemes of red and yellow flowers. It is not so strong a grower as the AUamandas, and is much more elegant in habit. Combretum purpureum, from Madagascar, is a moderate- growing plant, producing very remarkable reddish-purple flowers. It does the best in a large pot, or, if planted out in a confined space, where the roots of the more vigorous climbers can be excluded, otherwise they will impoverish the soil of this and similar moderate- growing subjeots, so as to give them little chance. Clerodendron splendens is a moderate-sized red-flowered plant, from Sierra Leone, a good, but not over vigorous grower, requiring similar treatment as to root room to the Combretum, and, like it, is more suitable for clothing a pillar than making much way on tho roof; both plants do well in sandy loam, and need little use of the knife. Stephanotis must also have a place here, and will do well planted out in a moderately confined space, keeping it dry at the roots during the season of rest, and cutting it as far as requisite after flowering. Passifiora quadrangularis.— This magnificent and singular flowered plant is a native of Madagascar, and is most suitable for covering a back wall, or, if allowed a place on the roof, it should not have too much root room, or it becomes almost unmanageable • it may be cut in moderately after flowering ; it does well in loam, which, with most of these climbers, especially such as are vigorous growers, induces a freer flowering disposition than peat. The fine crimson P. kermesina is one of the best for a place here, it will run a considerable distance if allowed space, and should be kept in bounds by a free use of the knife, and not allowed too much root room. P. Decaisneana is also a good variety, and well worth a place, treating it similarly to the last. Ipomcea Horsfalliaa, is a good free-flowering plant, not so strong or rambling a grower as some, and is most suitable for a pot, or confined space if planted out ; producing its rosy-coloured flowers in bunches for a long time in succession. Of Dipladenias, all fine climbers, amabilis, Brearleyana, insignis, and Williamsii, are the best, and all deserve a place in even the most select collection of plants, but if planted out, the space allotted to their roots should not be too large, for if the soil ever gets too wet it will rot them to their certain destruction ; they are the most suitable for pot culture. The three first-named are all different shades of red and crimson, the latter, Williamsii, is a splendid pale blush, with deep rose in the centre ; all are garden hybrids, and require good fibrous peat, with a liberal admixture of sand. If a singular- looking flower is wanted, Aristolochia gigas, or A. ornithoce. phala — the former from Guatemala, the latter from Brazil, may be grown ; both are very strong free-growing plants, and do well in a pot in loamy soil. They produce their large, most singular flowers very freely, from the young shoots during the summer, and bear cutting well back afterwards, but from their free growth they exhaust the soil very soon, consequently they require liberal feeding with liquid manure, and the soil partially removed each season before they commence growth. Bougainvillea glabra, and the still higher coloured, B. spectabilis, should one or both find a place here, drying them oft thoroughly after they have made their season's growth, and cutting in as required before they start in the spring. The last named variety is the most suitable for a very large house on account of the room it occupies. Euphorbia jaequinisefiora, from Mexico, is a most useful and continuous winter flowering plant, and, for a wall in a warm stove, 36 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 9, 1875. there is nothing more appropriate, or has a better appearance ; in such a situation it is most beautiful, planted out in a limited space in good loam ; it must never be over-watered, especially after being cut back after it has bloomed, or its roots will be almost sure to rot, after which it will never recover. The foregoing comprise a selection for the different temperatures indicated, and cannot fail to give satisfaction ; but, in commencing their cultivation, care should be taken that they are free from the worst species of insects, such as mealy bug, white and brown scale, and also that no affected plants are placed so near them as to admit of their getting infested with these pests, or the work entailed will be endless, and, in addition, every plant on which these insects will live that is placed under roof-plants so affected, is certain to catch the insects from them ; this, in par- ticular, applies to the plants recommended for the cool conservatory, if the plants here on the roof get affected with that worst of all insects, white scale, there is no remedy but cutting all the branches away, and repeatedly scrubbing the stems with a strong solution of some insecticide that will destroy the insect, which must be thoroughly exterminated before the headed.down plants break, as the young growth will not stand the mixture Btrong enough to kill the insects. In the planting and after.management of roof-climbers there are two things that should always be observed, never to plant too many subjects to overcrowd the house, or to allow the whole area of the roof to be covered as is sometimes seen ; this not only defeats the object in view, which is to embellish the house, not to make it an interminable thicket of running shoots, which destroy everything under them, and ultimately have to be cut out. The training should be regularly attended to as required, not allowing the plants to become entangled with one another or in themselves, and the thinning out and general use of the knife should also be continuous, so far as possible, without interfering with the flowering of the plants ; by such means the effect produced will be more natural in appearance than it otherwise would be. WAITING FOE SPRING. Thou of the sunny head, With Lilies garlanded, And bosom fairer than the blown sea-foam ; 0 Spring, in what waste desert dost thou stay, Whilst leaves await thy presence to unfold ? The branches of the Lime with frost are gray, And all imprisoned is the Crocus' gold. Come, sweet enchantress, come ! Arise, and bring with thee The rathe bud for the tree, The healing sunshine for the trampled Grass; Loose tendrils for the boughs which bless the eaves, And shield the swallows in the rainy hours, The pendent flames which the Laburnum heaves, And faint scents for the wind-stirred Lilac flowers. Enchantress, breathe and pass ! The larks shall sing again, Between the sun and rain, The brown bee through the flowered pastures roam, There shall be music in the frozen woods A gurgling carol in the rushing brook, An odour in the half-unbosomed buds, And dancing Foxgloves in each forest nook : Then come, enchantress, come ! — Chambers's Journal. How to Treat Imported Bulbs of Gloriosa superba.— Kindly inform me how and when to plant bulbs of Gloriosa superba sent to me from India? —Himalaya. [Imported bulbs or tubers of Gloriosa Buperba should be kept perfectly at rest in pots filled with parched dry soil or sand until March or April ; then plant each tuber in an 8, 10, or 12-inch pot, according to size, in a compost consisting of three parts friable turfy loam and one of turfy peat, to which a little leaf mould and sand have been added. Cover the bulbs from 1 to 2 inches deep, and place them in the warmest part of a stove ; keep them nearly dry until they begin to grow, after which water as required, but at first not oftener than once on alternate days. Increase the root temperature by partially plunging the pots (if practical) in some warm material until vigorous growth has been induced ; then gradually remove them from bottom-heat, and encourage growth by exposure to full light and a moist genial atmosphere ; and this treatment should be continued until they have made their growth and have begun to bloom. When done blooming, they should have a perfectly dry period of warm rest in the pots until they are started again into growth, which should be slowly at first, under a high temperaturo in a moist warm stove ; hut when they have made their growth, they should be bloomed in a drier atmo- sphere. To avoid injury from undue contact with moisture, the tubers should not be broken, cut, or bruised when planted. Being somewhat difficult to re-pot or shift during growth, each tuber should be at once placed in the pot in which it is to be flowered, in the soil named, with proportionate, not excessive drainage.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. COBBETT'S CORN. Mk. William Cobbett, a son of the celebrated William Cobbett, of political fame, when travelling in the "United States, during his father's lifetime, sent home some cobs of the Indian Corn or Maize, so abundant in that country. The elder Cobbett at once concluded that he had here found the antidote for the Potato " fever," and a substitute for that vegetable, to which he had conceived such a violent antipathy. Cobbett's Corn was advertised, proclaimed, and applauded all over the kingdom, and thousands of enthusiasts bought seed of it and grew it, but somehow the crops failed to ripen properly, and much disappointment followed. The taste for the Potato increased, and the demand for the Corn died out. The present Mr. William Cobbett has long since discontinued growing that kind of Corn, which he found ill suited for cultivation in a climate where, as in England, the summers are short and uncertain ; but he still entertains the belief that there is a kind of Indian Corn or Maize that would ripen here under ordinary culture, and that he now possesses the stock of such a variety, I am, from personal observation, assured. During the past summer in an adjoining garden, he has grown a capital crop of this particular kind, the " Improved Cobbett's Corn," and, although not sown earlier than the middle of April, the crop had ripened and was harvested before the end of September — many of the best cobs having been gathered even a few weeks earlier. This was grown in ordinary garden soil, prepared by digging and manuring as for any ordinary garden crop, and with after cultivation of the simplest kind. The best way to grow it appears to be to have the soil thrown up into ridges, of which the width apart depends on the method of after-cultivation to be adopted, whether by hand or by the plough. Mr. Cobbett informs me that in the States it is the practice to cultivate it in hills 4 feet apart each way, thus leaving, whitet the plant is yet young, ample space to work the plough amongst them for earthing up. Mr. Cobbett, although his crop was cultivated by hand labour, grew it in rows 4 feet apart, but I was satisfied that equally as good a crop could have been produced at 30 inches between the rows, as that would give ample space for earth to be drawn to the roots by hand-labour. If the crop be grown largely and the plough be required to cultivate the soil between the rows, not less than 4 feet space should be allowed from row to row, and after the earthing up is performed, a row of Swede or white Turnips might be sown in each intermediate space, and thus the ground would be utilised to the fullest extent. To prepare for the reception of the seed-corn the soil should be thrown into ridges, and then be slightly flattened with a light roller ; the seed is then dibbled into the centre of each ridge in holes about 4 inches apart and 3 inches in depth. It soon germinates, and, as it throws up a shoot that is sweet and tender like that of a Pea, it is eagerly sought for by birds, who will attack it vigorously unless they be kept at a safe distance ; as soon , however, as it is well through the ground it is safe. The course of treatment required during growth is simple enough. If in a small patch, a good flat hoeing, followed, when the plants are 12 inches in height, by a good earthing up, suffices until the Corn is ready for the harvest. If grown largely in the open field, then the liberal use of the horse hoe must be sue- ceeded by the earthing plough, the object of this earthing up being to give the plants the requisite support in case of rough winds and storms prevailing. As we usually get the strongest gales from the south-west, it is well, in sowing, to have the rows running from that point of the compass, as the wind, being at liberty to sweep along between the lines, is productive of much less mischief than if the rows be at right angles to the direction of the storm. Grown in good soil, the new Cobbett's Corn does not exceed 4 feet in height, and it is far from being so coarse-growing a variety as we have hitherto been familiar with. It is one of the peculiar features of the Maize crop that it can be harvested at any time, as, whilst still standing, it suffers neither from frost nor rain. Each cob is furnished by Nature with an external leafy covering that effectually protects the Corn from moisture. The covering is of a stout fibry texture, and, as the weather becomes moist it contracts itself closely around the Corn, and keeps it quite dry ; still, should it get at times a little damp, it soon dries again when fair weather ensues, so that no barm is done. Probably, at no time could Maize be better harvested than in dry frosty weather, but the question of harvesting would be, of necessity, a question of convenience. A stalk will produce from four to six cobs, the finest beiDg at the bottom. A good cob contains about 240 corns, which, when ripe, are of a rich golden-yellow hue. I found, as a rule, that the best cobs grown by Mr. Cobbett had eight rows of Corn, thirty in a row, laid together in the most perfect order, and, although much finer cobs may be grown, certainly none could be more handsome. To preserve them clean and bright for a considerable period, it is Jan. 9, 1875.] THE GAKDEN. 37 desirable to strip off the outer leafage, leaving only the inner one, and, if this be tied round at the top of the cob, it will keep it fresh and clean for a long time. It appears to be the rule to pull the cobs whilst the straw is standing, after which it is cut close to the ground and carted away. The straw is useful as a winter covering, as, owing to its stout fibry texture, it does not decay so speedily as ordinary straw. One characteristic which should not be overlooked is that the plant throws up suckers from its base. These are not fruitful, and should be cut clean away before the final earthing up is given, otherwise the crop will suffer. The uses to which this Corn may be put are many and various, and it is one of the most nutritions of all articles of diet ; it is evident that, if success, fully cultivated in this country, its proving a profitable article of culture must mainly depend upon its mode of manufacture. There are machines for "dis-cobing" the corn, and any mill that would grind Peas or Wheat should also as effectually grind it. The Corn is with us largely used as food for poultry and for horses, both whole and in a crushed state ; it enters largely into the composition of bread, as is evidenced when the bread crumbles instead of being cut clean by the knife. The flour of this Corn forms a delicious diet for infants and for invalids ; it makes puddings and blanc mange, and, in the hauds of a clever housewife, will make us sweet crisp cakes. Whether or not it will prove a paying crop depends mainly on the cost of cultivation. A. D. GROWING POTATOES FOR EXHIBITION. In growing Potatoes for exhibition, one of the first considerations is soil. Some soils will always grow Potatoes well, such, for example, as a deep friable sandy. black loam, that is either naturally or artificially obtained, but then such a soil as this is far from common, and therefore the cultivator has to make the best of that of which his garden consists. If your correspondent who wants information about growing Potatoes for exhibition has a soil that is naturally heavy, he will do well to work into it as speedily as possible a liberal dressing of long fresh stable manure, burying as much of the straw as possible. This should be dug in with a long tined fork, and the soil should be as much broken as possible. After resting a few weeks, let the ground be marked out with a line in lengths of 3 feet in width, and each length should be thrown into a ridge, the centre spit being turned over first, and the two side spits thrown up on to it. In this state it should lay until planting time, just prior to which, however, it will be well to add a dressing a few inches in depth along each trench, of either rotten leaf soil or of vegetable refuse from the rubbish heap. This should be well forked into the trench, in order that there may be good depth of well-worked soil below the seed tubers. Still farther, a good dressing of slaked lime one half, soot one quarter, and guano one quarter, may be sown with advantage along each furrow, and be lightly pushed in when ready for planting. A shallow drill drawn with the hoe will be all the remaining preparation needed. Lime, newly slaked, and soot are important ingredients in the cultivation of show Potatoes, as they keep off wireworms and promote that smoothness and cleanness of skin so essential to a handsome Potatoe. If the soil be light, a good dressing of well-rotted manure should be worked into it in autumn, and in spring, just before planting, a dressing of lime (as just mentioned) should be applied all over the surface, and as planting proceeds this will be forked in, the lines in this case being, as before, not less than 3 feet apart. As to sets, preference should be given to such as weigh about 3 ounces each, and they should be selected early in spring, and be laid out singly either on shelves or in shallow boxes exposed to the light, so that when they break the shoots may be strong and healthy. Shortly before planting, and when the strongest eyes have pushed into growth, the whole of the sets should be gone over, and have all their eyes gouged out with a sharp knife, excepting always the strongest, as that alone is amply sufficient to produce a good crop, and the tubers will be larger than if three or four eyes are allowed to grow. As to planting, the second week in April is early enough. If the ground has been ridged it is simply necessary, as has been stated, to draw a shallow drill, place the sets firmly in it at intervals of about 15 inches, and then lightly and carefully cover them with the finest soil from the sides of the ridges to a depth of about 5 inches. Nothing more need be done until they are well through the ground, when the ridges between the rows should be again forked up, as it is only by constant working that a stiff stubborn soil can be brought into a good free tilth. Planting on the level light soil should be done in rows at the same intervals of 3 feet, using a fork to move the soil to a depth of about 6 inches. Thus a shallow trench is opened across at one end of the piece to be planted about 1} feet from the edge, and a line being strained along it, the seed tubers are placed in it carefully, and the same width apart as before mentioned. The soil is then carefully forked over on to these, and the forking is continued until another width of 3 feet is accomplished, when another line of sets should be planted as before, and so on until all are in the ground. Distinct kinds should be marked with a large label, to prevent any possible mistake. In both cases it is best to stir the soil around the haulm with a fork rather than with a hoe ; the earthing up, which should be done twice (an interval of two weeks being allowed to elapse between each operation), should also be done with the fork. Beyond keeping the ground free from weeds, little else is required, and if the sorts selected are good, and the season favourable, good crops ought to be the result.— A. Dean, Bedfont. FRENCH BEAN FORCING AT BURGHLEY. Some of our great gardeners have remarked that they have French Beans and Grapes all the year round, but is that requisite ? It is well known that, if these things are supplied daily, they become commonplace ; whereas, if we are without them — say in both cases a couple of months — they are then not only something fresh, but are enjoyed far better. When I first began to crock pots for French Beans, we used to put half a dozen Beans in an 8-inch pot only half filled with com- post, which consisted of old Mushroom-dung — and for very early forcing, I know of nothing better. At that time, however, glasshouses were not so plentiful as now ; the Pine-stove and early Vineries were the only places available for such crops. Some short time since, I noticed, in a contemporary, that French Beans were earthed up (just because our grandfathers earthed them up, and for no other reason), as no roots ever pushed from the stem. But I have repeatedly seen them well rooted nearly to their first leaves. We have here a span.roof house, 60 feet long, divided in the middle ; half is used for winter Cucumbers, and the other half for French Beans in winter, and both portions are used in summer for Melons, of which we want a succession all through the summer months. Our first lot of Beans was sown in 3-inch pots on the 11th of October, and the first dish was gathered November 25th and the usual practice is to have three successions ; whenever the first is thrown away, another batch of fifty pots is sown, so that a full succession is always maintained. The general soil for them in winter is light turfy material enriched with rotten leaves. They are shifted from small pots just as the second leaf is showing, an operation in which they receive a slight check, which prevents them making too much growth and too few pods. They are placed at once on the shelves. When growth commences, I take out their points to make them stubby. They should also be surrounded with small spray, and one piece of matting should, be put round each, to keep it in form. No manure-water should be used until the Beans are formed, when they should be well supplied with it. Respecting temperature, I never like to almost freeze my pots at night and parboil them during the day, but give them from 60° to 68° at night, and let the thermometer run up to 75° or 80° by sun-heat ; and on every possible occasion give air, if only for an hour. French Beans are troublesome things to keep clear of red spider; but by syringing overhead daily, and keeping all about them moist, they will not give much trouble'. The great variety of these Beans now in the market somewhat perplexes us ; but of all that have come under my notice, Canadian Wonder is the best, and it is the only sort which I grow. But there is more than one variety sold under that name. By growing this Bean one is rewarded by fine straight pods 6 inches long, as green as Grass, perfectly tender, and of delicious flavour. — R. Gilbert, in the Gardener. New Potato Disease. — A new Potato disease has made its appearance in Algeria within the last two years, and has totally destroyed two-thirds of the crops, and threatens to do even a larger amount of injury. Potatoes attacked by the pest are utterly worth- less for any purpose whatever. No animal will eat them, and, on opening the tubers, it is found that they are honeycombed in the centre and filled with a blackish matter that gives forth a very offensive odour. It is not the Botrytis infestans that is causing the dama" e, but a very minute insect of the Lepidoptera order, of which the history is little known. It is only supposed that the larva? germinate in the roots of various vegetables. The small moth deposits its eggs upon the young shoots of the Potato the moment they appear above the ground. As soon as the eggs are hatched, the small caterpillar, as slender as horse-hair, penetrates into the stem, and works its way down into the tuber, the interior of which it eats away. The <>Tub which works the mischief is unknown in Europe, and the name has been given to it of Bryotropha solanella. The " Journal of the Central Society of Horticulture of France " warns Potato-growers against planting Algerian Potatoes, for fear the disease may be intro- duced into France. 38 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 9, 1875. GARDENING FOR THE WEEK. Kitchen Garden. Eveky garden, where early vegetables are a desideratum, should be provided with a number of those cheap portable frames and lights of which many forms and designs are now met with ; it is hardly neces. sary to particularise any special form, as they are all useful, from the old-fashioned hand-light to the more elaborate designs now frequently advertised ; but, whatever shape they may assume, protection from the cold, and concentration of the sun's warmth, by means of glass, is their chief aim and object. I think, if I am not mistaken, Mr. Rivers was amongst the first to advocate the extended use of such glass frames ; and his ground Vineries were, I believe, the first examples that were offered to the public. I suppose on any estate where a staff of carpenters is kept they could be manufactured without infringing anyone's patent. It does not require a great amount of skill to make a garden frame, and the most useful of them are, after all, only a handy modified form of the old garden frame. There is, I think, no question that the aid of glass in the shape of cheap portable frames, of various widths and lengths, is calculated to do as much for vegetable culture as it has done in another form, and is still doing, for fruit culture. The cultivator, moreover, who has a supply of those handy frames at this season stands in a far better position than the man who has nothing of the kind, and success is often quite as much a question of means and circumstances as of skill. In addition to the mere protection afforded by these frames, which is very considerable, they will be found very useful for forcing many things. Thus, a trench may be opened the width of a frame — and they may be obtained any width, 2 feet of hot dung and leaves placed in, and about 6 inches of light soil placed on the top, and a miniature hot.bed is formed without much expense, either in labour or materials, that is especially adapted to forwardiugsalading of all kinds, including Radishes, Lettuce, Mustard and Cress, &c. With a rather greater depth of soil, Potatoes or Cauliflowers may be suc- cessfully grown much earlier than they can be without having recourse to more elaborate, and consequently expensive, prepara- tions. Excellent Asparagus might be forced, without disturbing the beds, from this time onwards throughout the spring, by placing a ran<*e of these handy light frames on each bed in succession. Some of the earth might be removed from the alleys, and the space filled up with warm dung and leaves, building it up to the top of the frames, matting up the lights, except on sunny days, till the heads were pushing through. In some places it may be advisable to plant two or three beds, especially for this kind of forcing, where the litter would not be objectionable ; and, in such a case, if possible, the beds should run east and west ; then, if lean-to frames were used, the full benefit would be obtained from the sun's warmth. Where there are the means of bringing forward Tomatoes very early under glass, either in pots or planting them out in a warm light house, if cuttings were not secured in the autumn (which is the best way), seeds may be sown and pushed on near the glass in heat ; but, unless for the special object I have named, next month will be quite early enough to sow for general outdoor culture. Wherever there is likely to be a scarcity of either Cauliflower, Cabbage, or Lettuce plants, a small sowing in pans, of each might be made, and the pans placed near the glass, in a temperature of about 50°. So soon as the land is in a workable condition, the warmest border destined for early crops in the open air should be renewed, as much as possible, by adding fresh rich light soil, or thoroughly decayed dung, preparatory to cropping. There is nothing, however, gained by either planting or sowing when the land is not in a fit condition ; therefore, however anxious we may be, to be up and dcing, it will be better to wait a few days. — E. Hobday. The Flower Garden and Pleasure Grounds. While the weather remains in its present condition very little can be done in the open air in these departments, further than to furnish plants, of whoae hardiness there may be any doubt, the necessary pro- tection in the form of a slight covering of some sort, and mulching around the stem, &c, with dry litter. The present winter is proving itself by no means an ordinary one ; on several occasions during the last week of December the temperature fell to within a few degrees of zero, and such depressions are found not unfrequently to prove injurious, and sometimes fatal to species which are generally regarded as quite hardy. Fortunately, however, for bulbs in any degree tender, as well as for Alpine and other herbaceous plants, they have had for some time the advantage of Nature's protection in the form of a few inches of snow, which should not, on any account, be removed. But this protection cannot, of course, extend to trees and evergreen shrubs, whose frozon foliage, &c, is daily, to some extent, thawed by the influence of an hour or two of winter sunshine; and it is to these alternate thawings and freezings that tho injury so frequently inflicted upon evergreens, &c, are to be ascribed. So, if not already done, let all plants occupying prominent positions, or specimens which can ill be spared, of such species as the Arbutus or Strawberry tree, Aucubas of various sorts, and Daphnes, Desfontainea spinosa, Escallonias, the Laurus nobilis or the Sweet Bay, and various kinds of Yuccas, and Asiatic species and varieties of the Rhododendron, new Coniferous trees of moderate dimensions, &c, be surrounded with a few stakes, on which to support a covering of mats or frigi domo ; the latter always proving a very effective pro- tection. While the frost continues so intense as it is at the present time, allow by all means the covering of snow to remain upon the roofs of pits and frames, containing Alpine and other half-hardy plants ; but, as soon as a favourable change takes place in the weather, and the snow begins to melt rapidly, let it then be removed, at once, so as to prevent the drip from the melting snow saturating the soil in which the plants are growing. The time is now nearly at hand when the propagation of bedding plants should be commenced ; but it may, at the same time, be advisable to defer such work for a time, or until a favourable change in the weather takes place. But, in the meantime, the preparation of materials for the formation of hot-beds, &c, should be at once attended to, such as incorporating tree leaves with stable-yard manure by frequently turning the same. — P. Grieve, CuTford, Bury St. Edmunds. Orchids During this month the demand for Orchid flowers, for the decora, tion of vases, ladies' hair, &c, is unusually great, and, therefore, such choice varieties as Odontoglossnm Bluntii, 0. pulohellum, Coelogyne cristata, Loelia albida, L. anceps, Angrascum sesquipedale, Phalsenopsis grandiflora, Schilleriana, and amabilis ; and Cattleya Trianas should be grown in dozens. These are so often imported as to bring them within the reach of almost everybody. Dendrobium heterocarpnm is one that should have a place in every collection, not on account of the beauty of its flowers so much as for its perfume. Cattleya maxima should be more common than it is, and, if grown in the Mexican-house, it is almost certain to do well ; it requires little shade during summer, and will produce blooms late in autumn. Dendrobium chrysanthum should now be put in baskets or top dressed, as the case may require. It should also be supplied once a week with weak mannre-water, and the young growths should be sprinkled on bright days with pure water. This species should be suspended at the warm end of the Cattleya-house until it has completed its growth, when it should be placed in a house to ripen, free from shade. Keep plants of Disa grandiflora well supplied with water after they have begun to grow ; also Odontoglossum Blnntii, O. Pescatori, Oncidium macranthum, and Masdevallia, all of which should be well supplied with water, in order to keep the Sphagnum Moss in a free-growing state. The latter should be encouraged to cover the surface of the pots. Now is a good time to look over plants and to make a list of such as require re-potting. Great care will now be required in order to keep up a regular temperature, which should be allowed to fall a few degrees rather than rise ; less moisture should also be used. — E. Culley. Indoor Fruit Department. Pot Vines. — Young Vines kept in small pots last summer for cutting back and growing into strong fruiting canes this season, should now receive attention. Cut them over at two eyes from the base, and apply some styptic to the wound, which may bleed when growth begins. When cut and dressed, turn them out of their pots aud shake most of the old soil from their roots. Have a corre- sponding number of 6-inch pots cleaned and drained, and into these pot the roots singly, using a free open pure loam, mixed with a little horse droppings. Give sufficient watering to damp the whole of the soil, and plunge the pots to the rim in a hot-bed where a bottom-heat of 85° exists. They may be plunged as closely together as the pots will stand, and, where a suitable place cannot be obtained for their accommodation in a house, a hot.bed, covered with a frame, will form a suitable place in which to keep them during the first stages of their growth. Another equally successful mode is to cut and dress the Vines, and plunge them, without disturbing the roots, in the soil in which they grew last year, retaining them in this way until they have made a young growth of 2i or 3 feet in length, when they may be shifted into larger pots without breaking the ball. In this way they grow more freely when young, but they do not root so readily into fresh soil as those which had their roots dis- entangled. Such Vines are generally grown for starting into growth, with the view of fruiting in October or November, and the earlier they are started the earlier will tho fruit be ripened, and thereby have the advantage of a longer rest before the operation ia again repeated. Where it is desirable to start pot Vines about the time stated, it is impossible to get them of a satisfactory kind, unleBS Jan. 9, 1875.] THE GARDEN. 39 they have been out back. Such Vines start into growth more quickly, grow faster, and ripen their wood sooner than one-year- old canes do. Where, however, it is not necessary to start them into growth before January and afterwards, one-year-old canes are as suitable as such as have been cut back, as it does not take so much trouble to attend to the growth of the former as the latter. If plunged in a dry place, a damping overhead with the syriDge every afternoon softens the buds and assists them in breaking. Do not water abundantly until they are growing freely, and avoid, by all means, letting any cold draught pass into the early Vineries by having the door open for any length of time. During severe weather, access to such structures should be obtained through an inner door, or where such convenience exists, from a corridor behind them. Pines. — See that the bottom-heat applied to the second plunged batch of these does not rise above 90°, any indication above which should be the signal to lightly raise the pots as recommended for the first lot. The roots of many early Queen Pines are often rendered useless through non-attendance to this, and consequently the plants refuse to start into fruit until new roots have been made. Valves for the regulation of the bottom-heat should be connected with every Pine bed, so that the heat could be conveniently raised or lowered at pleasure. The humidity kept up about early Queens should be increased in proportion to their growth. A little guano in the evaporating pans also helps to give the foliage a rich deep green tint, and keeps the atmosphere in a healthy condition. Pines are not generally dressed before they are sent to table ; but they are much improved in appearance when the decayed blooms attached to the pips are neatly clipped off and the fruit brushed over afterwards, before it is set up for dessert. — J. Muir. Indoor Plant Department. Conservatories. — Use just fire-heat enough to expel damp and frost, and ns more ; and, in the case of damp, ventilate the house at the same time. Maintain a temperature of 40° at night, with the usual daily rise. Water all evergreen plants moderately, and keep deoiduous ones nearly dry. Plants in borders require watering very Beldom at this season, there being but little demand upon the roots at this time of year; but pot plants, especially such as are near hot-water pipes, require unremitting attention a3 regards water, for, although apparently moist on the top, the soil at the bottom of the pots may be dry. Such a condition would be extremely detrimental, as the greatest amount of roots is amongst and over the drainage. Rather than keep the conservatory too warm, in order to forward the plants therein, supply any deficiency there may be in the way of flowers by means of Camellias, Azaleas, Jasminums, Weigelas, Kalrnias, Prunuses, Acacias, Dielytras, Lily of the Valley, Dutch and Roman Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissi, Crocuses, and other plants from the forcing pits. Decaying leaves must be regularly removed, and a rather dry and healthy atmosphere is a good remedy for such an evil, and to effect this, supply artificial heat and plenty of air. Keep Heaths, Epacrises, Chorozemas, Boronias, and Tremandras in the coolest and freest ventilated portion ; and forced shrubs and other flowers in the warmest parts. Cut over Chrysanthemums that have done flowering, and keep a pot of each kind in a frame, if sufficient cuttings have not already been obtained. Plant the others in the open border, or, if not wanted out of doors, throw them away. Shift herbaceous Calceolarias and Cinerarias as they require it, and keep them cool and well watered ; never permitting a damped or decayed portion of a leaf to remain. Fumigate to destroy aphis, and keep in mind the old maxim, " prevention is better than cure." Keep Mignonette near the glass, and stake and tie it as may be necessary. Have a good succession of it, as well as of Violets, and other plants, in pits. Regularly train Tropa3olums, and give them a little manure.water when they have fairy started. Con. tinue to pot off singly, good rooted, early autumn -struck cuttings of Azaleas, Camelias, &c, but if neither time nor space can be spared for shifting them at present, leave them for a time in their cutting pots set on a side-Bhelf of a close pit or intermediate house. Any Statices becoming too long-stalked should have an incision made on each branch just at the base of the foliaged crowns, after which some Mobs should be tied round it. The Moss should always be kept damp, and if a little silver sand is mixed with it so much the better, as it helps to encourage root-production. Keep old and young Statices moderately moist and in a minimum temperature of 45°. Pot off cuttings of Libonias and keep them for a short time in a warm pit, and when root action again begins, transfer them to an intermediate house. Divide the rhizomes of the variegated.leaved Acorus javanicus, and keep the divided portions for a time in gentle heat. From male Aucubas in flower gather the pollen and keep it dry between bits of glass for future use. Start into growth, in a warm pit, tropical Crinums. Re-pot and start some Heemanthuses ; they may be placed upon the floor in a warm house or pit, or on a back shelf. Bedding Plants. — Pelargoniums must still be kept rather dry, with the exception of a few plants of them, which should be placed in an intermediate house and moderately watered, in order to induce them to make young wood for propagating purposes. Keep all the finest-leaved kinds, such as tricolors and bicolors, near the glass, in light airy pits or greenhouses, and give them also sufficient water to prevent them from flagging. Verbenas, Ageratums, Salvias, Tropicolums, and similar plants, should be cleared of all decaying leaves, and dry wood-ashes or sand should be scattered over the surface of the soil in the pots or boxes that contain them. If the stock of them is short, introduce a few plants to a warm house, give them a fair quantity of water, and they will soon produce young wood, which may be made into cuttings. Indeed, from this time till the end of April, Verbenas, Ageratums, &c, may be forced and propagated in large quantities, for the cuttings root readily, and soon furnish tops and side-shoots, which may be used for a similar purpose. Sow some Lobelia seeds in heat, and prick off the young seedlings, as soon as they are fit to handle, into pots, pans, or boxes, containing light sandy earth well mixed with sifted leaf soil. By sowing Lobelias, pricking them out in time, and pinching them a little before the period for planting-out has arrived, they will bloom early and long. Cuttings of Lobelias may also be inserted as soon as convenient. Leave Gazanias undisturbed till March, it being then soon enough to propagate them ; for early-struck plants become long and weakly before they are planted out, unless a good deal of room and pains can be devoted to them. Caloeolarias in frames and boxes should be well ventilated in fine weather, and all decaying matter removed from amongst them. Remove the points of any shoots that are growing too rankly, and prepare cold frames for purposes of propagation next month. Caloeolarias strike as well in cold frames if inserted in early February as they do if inserted in October ; but, if the operation bo delayed till March, they require a little heat to induce them to root readily. Any kinds of Dahlias that are scarce may be started in heat at once, and cuttings of them may be taken off and rooted as soon as they can be obtained ; next month, however, or even the 1st of March, is soon enough for starting the general stock. If a good stock of Caladium esculentum be required, start some of the rested plants in a brisk bottom-heat, and, when they have begun to grow, remove the top and insert it as a cutting, still retaining the old root-stocks in the plunging material. Before long the latter will push forth a numerous progeny of young shoots, which may be separated individually after they form a leaf or two, and be used as separate plants. Rub over the incision with powdered charcoal, in order to counteract damp, and return the root to the position which it formerly occupied, keeping it there until it has exhausted every effort to produce another offset. Seeds of sub- tropical plants, such as Solanums, Wigandias, Ferdinandas, UhdeaB, &c, should be sown in heat as soon as possible, in order to have good strong plants before bedding-out time ; and all old plants of these genera wintered in pots should be plunged in bottom. heat, in order to produce young shoots to be used as cuttings. Prune back Hibis. cuses, Cassias, Fuchsias, Abutilons, and similar plants, so that they may begin to grow slowly and hardily. Aoacia lophantha, raised from seeds sown now, makes good plants before May for mixing with other plants in small beds. Keep Centaureas rather dry than otherwise, in open airy houses or pits near the glass, and remove every particle of damped. off leaves that may be hanging about them, sprinkling powdered charcoal or dry wood ashes about their necks and over the soil. Treat Echeverias and other succulents like Centaureas. Salt and Snow. — Mr. Church (see p. 17) and Mr. Mackio advocate the employment of salt whenever, through snow or frost, the roads become dangerous or difficult. The suggestion has evoked considerable opposition in many quarters, and especially from Dr. Alfred Carpenter, of Croydon, who points out that the applica- tion of salt to snow will have the effect of producing a very cold mixture, which is likely to penetrate the boots of pedestrians, and produce serious results. To this objection it may be answered that such would be the effect of the admixture of snow and salt wero they enclosed in a close vessel, such as a refrigerator ; but spread out on the road and pavements the conducting power of the earth will prevent the mixture from falling above one degree lower than that of the surrounding atmosphere. It is a cortain fact that if tho roads be kept moderately salted, which can be easily done by the admixture of rough salt with water in the ordinary watering carts, and its subsequent distribution over the roads, travelling through the slippery streets will be greatly facilitated, and much of the suffering and damage to horses, which has been observable during the last fortnight will be greatly lessened, if not entirely obviated. 40 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 9, 1875. THE BEST OF LAST TEAE'S NEW PLANTS. The following were awarded First-class Certificates by the Floral Committee at the Royal Horticultural Society's Meetings in 1874 : Adiantum gracillimum Williams, May 13. Agave filif era superba Croucher, May 13. Agave micracantha picta Croucher, May 13. Alsophila elegantissima Bull, Feb. 18. Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) Oriflamme . . . Williams, April 1. Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) vittata Harrisoniana (as pieturata) Bull, Feb. 18. Angrsecum citratum Veiteb, Feb. 18. Anthericum Williamsii Williams, Nov. 11. Aquilcgia leptoceras lutea = A. chrysantha . Douglas, May 13. Azalea (mollis) Alphonse Lavalle . , . Lane, May 13. Begonia Model Veitch, Sept. 2. Begonia Royalty Chambers, Oct. 7. Betula alba foliis purpureis .... William Paul, July 15. Boronia megastignia Veitch, April 1. Campanula Smithii W. Smith, July 15. Cattleya fausta Veitch, Oct. 7- Cattleya gigas Veitch, April 15. Cattleya Veitchiana Veitch, March 18, Cerasus Mahaleb pendula Ceterach aureum . . . . * Cheilanthes Bergiana (see Hypolepis) Chrysanthemum (Japanese) Duchess of Edin- burgh Chrysanthemum Gold Thread Chrysanthemum The Cossack Chysis Chelsoni Cineraria, double-flowered Clematis Countess of Lovelace Clematis Lord Gifford Clematis Lucie Lemoine Clematis Marquis of Salisbury Clematis purpurea elegans Clematis Robert Hanbury Coleus Duchess of Edinburgh Cornus alba marginata Cyclamen Rose Queen Cyclamen Royal Purple Cypripedium Argus Cypripedium Boezlii Dahlia Countess of Pembroke Dahlia John McPherson . Dahlia Sarab McMillan Dendrobium Ainsworthii . Dendrobium amoenum Dendrobium erythoxanthum Echeveria Peacockii . Epidendvum catillus=E. Iinperator Ficus Pai'cellii .... Gladiolus Duchess of Edinburgh Gladiolus James Kelway . Gloxinia Queen of England Gymnogramma triangularis Hsemanthus, Cooperii Hippeastrum picturatum (see Amaryllis) Hollyhock Mulberry Gem . Hollyhock Rose Supreme . Hyacinth Anna . Hyacinth Cavaignac . . Hyacinth Mr. Plimsoll Hyacinth Quirine Christine Hyacinth Sir Garnet Wolseley Hypolepis Bergiana Iris KaDinpferi Edward Georgo Henderson Ixora Frasuri ...... Kniphofia McOwanii Lilium speciosum atro-sanguineum rubrum Lilium Washingtonianum purpureum Lobelia (bedding) Duchess of Edinburgh Lobelia (bedding) magnifica . . . Macrozamia tenuifolia ? (as plumosa) . Mammillaria Koezliana longispiua . • Metroxylon (ilare Narcissus (Polyanthus) fl.-pl . . . Nerium Dr. Golfin ( Mm toglossum Alexandra) Rothschildii . Oduntoglossum maxillaro . . . GSceoclades guincensis Paul & Sou, Aug. 19. Williams, April 15. Veitch, Nov. 11. Veitch, Nov. 11. Veitch, Nov. 11. Veitch, March 18. Haage&Schmidt,May27 Jackman, April 15. Noble, April 15. Veitch, March 4. Jackman, April 15. Cripps, June 4. Jackman, May 13. Chitty, June 17. Paul & Son, Aug. 19. Goddard, April 1. Goddard, April 1. Veitch, March 18. Veitch, Jan. 21. Keynes, Sept. 2. Keynes, Sept. 2. Rawlings, Oct. 7. , Mitchell, Feb. 18. . Bull, June 4. , Denning, Aug. 5. . Croucher, July 1. Denning, March 4. . Veitch, April 15. . Kelway, Sept. 2. . Kelway, Sept. 2. . Gee, June 4. , Williams, May 13. , Henderson, May 13. , Chater, Aug. 19. . Chater, Aug. 19. . Veitch, March 18. . Veitch, March 18. . Veitch, March 18. . Cutbush, March 18. . Veitch, March 18. (- Rollisson, May 13. . i Blackwood (as Cheilan- (. thes), Aug. 19. . Henderson, July 1. . Eraser, July 15. . Green, Oct. 7. . Wilson, Aug. 5. . Veitch, June 17. . Lidgard, June 17. ( Pine-apple Nursery Co., "I Julyl. . Bull, June 4. . Croucher, May 13. .- Bull, Aug. 5. . Veitch, March 18. i Henderson, Sept. 2. ■ Richards, May 13 . Shields, Sept. 2 Bull, Sept. 1 Oncidium fuscatum Veitch, April 1 Pelkea mucronata . > . Pleocnemia Leuzeana . Polyanthus (bedding) The Bride Polyanthus (fancy) purpurea . Primrose Splendour . . • Primrose Violacea Primula (sinensis) Prince Arthur Puya chilensis .... Rapatea pandanoides . Rhododendron Duchess of Edinburgh Rhododendron Early Gem Rose (H.P.) Duchess of Edinburgh Rose (H.P.) Madame Lacharme Rose (H.P.) Royal Standard . Rose (H.P.) Sir Garnet Wolseley Rose (Tea) Duchess of Edinburgh Rose (Tea) Madame Francois Janin Sarraceni'a Stevensii . Saxo-Fridericia subcordata (see Rapatea) Selaginella lepidophylla Silene pendula flore-plono . . Solanum quitoense . • Sonerila Hendersoni . Sonerila Hendersoni argentea . Tacsonia insignis . . • Toxicophlaaa spectabilis . . Vanda limbata .... Viola (bedding) White Swan Vitis heterophylla humulifolia . Zygopetalum Sedenii . , Backhouse, June 4. Bull, Feb. 18. Dean, March 18. Dean, April 1. Dean, March 18. Dean, Feb. 18. Perkins, Feb. 18. Smith-Dorrien, May 27. Bull, Feb. 18. Veitch, March 4. Veitch, March 4. Bennett, April 1. Bennett, March 18. Turner, July 15. Cranston, July 1. Veitch, May 13. Bennett, March 18. Veitch, June 4. Henderson, Sept. 2. Dean, July 1. Veitch, Sept. 2. Henderson, July 15. Henderson, July 15. Backhouse, June 4. Veitch, Feb. 18. Williams, June 4. Dean, May 13. Woodbridge, Oct. 7. Veitch, Aug. 5. Certificates Awarded at the Chiswick Trials. Pelargonium Anna Pfitzer . Pelargonium Bonfire . Pelargonium Claude de la Mcurtbo Pelargonium Colonel Holden Pelargonium Ellie Pelargonium Little Trot . Pelargonium Master Christine . Pelargonium Mrs. Halliburton . Pelargonium Mrs. Tate . . Pelargonium Mrs. Turner . ■ Pelargonium Prince Arthur Pelargonium Queen of Beauties Pelargonium Rev. T. F. Fenn . Pelargonium Richard Dean . Pelargonium Sparkler Tropasolum compactum yellow . Viola Blue Bell .... Viola Dicksons' Goldon Gem Viola Dicksons' King Viola Dicksons' Queen Yiola Imperial Blue Perfection Viola Lily White Tom Thumb . Viola Miss Maitland . . . Viola Mulberry . . . i Yiola The Tory .... Viola Tyrian Prince . • • Henderson, Aug. 29. Henderson, Aug. 29. Henderson, Aug. 29. Pearson, Aug. 29. Miles, Aug. 29. Davis, Aug. 29. Veitch, Aug. 29. Kinghorn, Aug. 29. Pearson, Aug. 29. Pearson, Aug. 29. Fraser, Aug. 29. Hodgson, Aug. 29. Pearson, Aug. 29. Henderson, Aug. 29 Henderson, Aug. 29. Dean, Aug. 29. Dean, July 15 Dicksons & Co., July 15. Dicksons & Co., July 15. Dicksons & Co., July 15. Dean, July 15. Dean, July 15. Milligan & Kerr, July 15. Dean, July 15. Dicksons & Co., July 15. Dean, July 15. Pelargonium (double) Emily Laxton Pelargonium (double) Jeanne Alegatiero . Pelargonium (golden tricolor) Dr. Masters Pelargonium (show) Duchess of Edinburgh Pelargonium (zonal) Sir Garnet Wolseley PelUea decomposita ? .... Laxton, June 4 Wm. Paul, July 15 Henderson, July 1 Braid, May 13 George, July 15 'Backhouse, June 4. Bats and Cantharikopho. — I beg to inform Mr. Balderstone that, my cottage having been infested with rats for some time, I was induced to try a box of Cantharikopho, procured direct from Messrs. Rollisson, and, to my satisfaction, I have rot seen a rat or any indication of the presence of one since. With regard to mice, I used it in my potting-shed, which was over-run with them, and also on cockroaches and crickets, and I have found it in all cases effica- cious, except in that of woodlice, which I find will not touch it until it has been exposod to the atmosphere for some ten days, when they will eat it, but of course with impunity, as its destructive properties are then gone. — A. H. Mat, Wimbledon Povrk. — Captain Crawley, writing to Messrs. Rollisson from the Temple Club, Arundel Streot, Strand, says that he has tried the Cantharikopho, and has found it to answer admirably. Kitchens, stables, and cellars have all been cleared of mice, cockroaches, Ac, by it, aud he asserts that it is a most effectual and fatal, though, apparently, an enticing meal. Tan for Mulching. — There is much difference of opinion as to the value of tan as a mulching material. A recent writer in the Revue Horticole cites several instances in which its effects were disastrous upon fruits and vegetables. Several market gardeners near Paris lost all their winter Lettuce by covering the beds with tan. Any ill results must be due to the fact that the bark was not thoroughly exhausted. When the Boluble matter is all extracted from it, the effect of the tan can only be a mechanical one. Where there are such different experiences, it will be safe to expose the tan to the action of rains for some months before using it. Jan. 9, 1875.] THE GAEDBN. 41 ■WINDOW GAEDENS. Many and varied have been the contrivances invented to afford facilities to those dwellers in town who indulge outside of a window in the pursuit of horticulture "under difficulties." As a rule, all thoso inventions, while they may answer the purpose in a horticul. tural point of view, are anything but ornamental in an artistic sense. A correspondent of our excellent contemporary, the Building News, appears to have fallen on a plan to unite use and ornament. The very ingenious mode in which he does so will be best seen and under, stood by giving his letter and reproducing the illustration, for which we are indebted to the same source : — " External window gardens are now so common in England that it is time architects incorporated them in their designs for villas and cottages. At present they disfigure rather than improve the appearance of houses. If we wander through Belgravia or any modern locality, we shall find at least half the dwellings with windows blocked up by rude unsightly temporary boxes, each vying with the other for nnsightliness and for shutting out the daylight. We find that the builder has gone to the expense of glazing the windows with plate glass, about a fourth of which is rendered useless by the tenant's questionable adornments to them. Provision for window gardens is, therefore, a want that should be provided by the builder. The want has been partially met by the balcony or projecting shelf-like sill, but the same rude box is placed upon them to hide the lower part of the glass and obstruct the light. An improved Window-box. There are various ways in which the window garden may be architec- turally treated, but a hint may be gleaned from the accompanying sketch, of which fig. A shows elevation of part of the front wall and window ; fig. B a section of the window and box for earth ; and fig. c a plan of same. It will be seen that the ordinary window sill is entirely abandoned, and a box substituted in its place, running under the woodwork of the window till it meets the internal plastering, or what joiners call the window back. Thereby some of the heat of tho room is imparted to the flowers, and when the fire-place is situated near the window the heat would assist to make a miniature conservatory." HAWTHOBNS. With one or two exceptions, these are deciduous, ranging in height from about 10 to 30 feet. They have a wide geographical distribu- tion over Europe, Asia, and both Continents of America, and are nearly all hardy enough for open-air cultivation in Britain. A large proportion of the species and varieties are valuable for the ornamentation of parks, margins of woods, and shrubberies, where, from their picturesque outlines, elegant foliation, and the profusion of their showy blossoms, followed, in most cases, by brilliant and conspicuous fruit, they have a peculiarly striking effect, and are justly regarded as worthy of a prominent place in the choicest collections of ornamental trees and shrnbs. Many of the sorts, and notably the common Hawthorn with its varieties, are admirably adapted for planting in town gardens and squares, where they grow vigorously, and seldom fail to flower, notwithstanding the dust and smoke, so inj urions to most forms of tree life. All the species are found to succeed best in rich, but light, soil, with tho ground either naturally dry or sufficiently drained to prevent any accumulation of water at the roots. They flower and fruit most freely when planted in open sunny situations. In planting, enough of space should always be allowed for the free spread of their branches without coming in contact with neighbouring trees. In making a small selection from a genus containing some fifty or sixty species and varieties, many that are really desirable must necessarily bo omitted ; the following, however, are among the most popular, and well worth the attention of intending planters, being quite hardy, very distinct, and at the same time highly ornamental. C. Oxyacantha (the common Hawthorn). — This, the type of the genus, is indigenous to most countries in Europe, including our own, where it has been grown as a decorative tree "time out of mind " — the pride of the humble cottage-garden and the village-green, With seats beneath its shade For talking ago, and whispering lovers made ; and not less so in the noble parks and well-kept pleasure-grounds of the rich, rivalling all the other trees in beauty when in blossom, while its ample spreading head and gracefully bending branches render it at all tix.es a pleasing and interesting feature in the landscape. Its importance as a hedge-plant, either by itself, or mixed with Beech or Privet, is well known ; aud it need scarcely be said that, if kept properly trimmed, no plant makes such a close, strong, aud durable fence. The snow-white sweetly-fragrant flowers are produced in great abundance in May or June, according to the season, followed generally by a crop of red fruit, usually ripe in September. The leaves are obovate, wedge-shaped, sometimes nearly entire, but more frequently deeply cut into lobes ; in spring they are Of a light green, changing in summer to a darker tint. There are a great number of fine varieties of this species, more or less distinct aud handsome. The following are among the most useful for decorative planting : — Variegata aurea and v. argentea, with gold and silver variegations, are interesting as varieties, though by no means to be classed among the showiest of variegated trees ; fructo-lutea differs from the parent in having yellow fruit, and is very ornamental in autumn and early winter ; Regina3 pendula is a fine weeping form, quite distinct from the species— the original tree, known as Queen Mary's Thorn, stood in a garden of the Canongate of Edinburgh which belonged to the Regent Murray, but was cut down somo years ago ; spinosissima is remarkable for the great number of stiff sharp spines with which the branches are thickly studded, and which have a curious effect when the leaves are off ; cocciuea is the well-known scarlet Thorn, a universal favourite, which caunot be too extensively planted ; laciniata differs from the parent in its leaves being deeply cut into numerous segments ; prajcox, the Glastonbury Thorn, is interesting from producing its leaves and flowers much earlier in the season than either the species or any of the other varieties. There are also the following double-flowered sorts, which are truly beautiful when in bloom, and cannot be too highly recom- mended for planting in shrubberies among the larger-growing evergreens, or for single specimons either in parks or lawns : — Albo pleno, double white ; rosea plena, double pink ; aud coccinea plena nova, the last known as Paul's Double Scarlet Thorn, a variety of recent introduction to our gardens, but already widely distributed, and undoubtedly one of tho most valuable acquisitions to the list of hardy flowering trees, flowering, like the other double sorts, when only a few feet high, and quite showy enough for the finest flower garden. Forced in a gentle heat, it is a grand plant for the conservatory in early spring. C. Aroma ' (the Aronian Thorn). — This species, indigenous to Greece, as well as several other countries in the south-east of Europe, and introduced in 1S10, is a distinct-looking handsome tree of about 25 feet in height. It has a very densely branched, rather erect habit of growth ; the leaves are wedge-shaped at the base, deeply lobed, and toothed at the edges ; the young shoots and under surface of the leaves are slightly pubescent. The flowers, which generally expand in June, are white, followed by large yellow fruit ripe in Sep- tember, and not only very ornamental, but eatable — making excel- lent tarts either alone or along with Apples. It is an interesting park or avenue tree. C, coccinea (the Scarlet-fruited Thorn), indigenous to North America, from Canada to Carolina, and introduced into Britain in 16S3, is a bushy spreading tree of from 25 to 30 feet in height. The leaves are of an ovate-cordate form, serrated, much larger than those of the common Hawthorn, and of a warm green colour, changing at the fall to a bright yellowish-red. The flowers are large and showy, pure white, and expand in the beginning of Juno. The fruit is of a brilliant scarlet colour, very palatable, and ripe about the end of September. It is a distinct and very ornamental park specimen, tree. C. Crus-galli (the Cockspur Thorn). — Another North American species, with a similar distribution to the preceding. It was first 42 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 9, 1875. introduced about 1791, and in this country grows to heights of from 15 to 20 feet. The specific name was given in allusion to the long bent spines with which the branches are armed, giving the tree a singular appearance in winter. The leaves are of an obovate form, slightly serrated at the edges, of a smooth shiny- green colour, and are remarkable for remaining on the tree longer than those of the other deciduous species. The flowers are white, and usually in perfection in June. The fruit is bright scarlet, and ripe about October. As a park specimen-tree it is very ornamental, aud, though quite hardy, succeeds best in a shel- tered situation. Of several interesting varieties in cultivation the most distinct is salicifolia — a curious, broad, horizontal branched tree, with oblong nearly lanceolate leaves, suggestive of those of some of the Willows : it forms a most effective contrast in mixed collections of decorative trees. C. cordata (the Heart-shaped-leaved Thorn), a native of North America, found over a vast tract of country in Canada and the United States, and growing to heights of from 20 to 30 feet. The leaves are large, cordate-ovate, very abundant, and of [a shiny deep- green colour. The flowers are white, and though individually small, are produced in large terminal corymbs, and have a pretty effect in May or June, when in perfection. The fruit is scarlet, but small and inconspicuous, and ripe about October. When planted in a dry sheltered situation, this forms a neat specimen-tree, with a close bushy habit of growth, well suited for planting in a choice collection. C. macrantha (the Long.spined Thorn), found wild in great abundance in the Northern States of North America, from whence it was first introduced in 1819. It is a broad-spreading tree of about 25 feet in height, and remarkable for its numerous long sharp spines. The leaves are large, ovate-oblong, serrated, and of a bright green colour. The flowers are white, and usually in perfection in June. The fruit is scarlet, very small, but generally produced abundantly ; ripe about September. As a park tree, it is conspicuous and pleasiDg, and ought to be more frequently planted. It thrives best in a mode- rately sheltered situation, and in dry porous soil. C. tanacetifolia (the Tansy -leaved Thorn), indigenous to Greece and adjoining countries, aud introduced in 1789, is an upright- growing tree of about 30 feet in height. The leaves are somewhat larger than those of the common Hawthorn ; deeply divided into irregular segments, and covered with a minute down. The flowers are white, and expanded in May or June. The fruit is round, large, eatable, and of a golden-yellow colour. This species is an old favourite in our parks and pleasure grounds, growing, as it does, almost everywhere, with great vigour, and forming a remarkably attractive specimen, its peculiar grey-coloured foliage contrasting well with the darker shades of most other trees. Of several distinct varieties the most interesting is Leeana, which differs from the parent chiefly in its more robust, closer, more fastigiate habit of growth, and in its larger, less divided leaves ; it is a handsome and most desirable ornamental tree, C. punctata (the Dotted. fruited Thorn), a North American species, found over a large tract of country, particularly in Virginia and Carolina, is a small bushy spreading tree of about 25 feet in height, introduced in 1746. The leaves are obovate, wedge-shaped, acutely serrated, and of a bright shining green colour. The flowers are white, expanding in June ; the fruit is bright scarlet, dotted or speckled. The following varieties are distinct, and worthy of special notice: — rubra, with fruit of a darker red, and a habit of growth more robust than the parent; stricta, differing only in its fastigiate habit ; fructo-aurea, with the upright habit of the preceding, but with golden. yellow fruit. All the sorts are beautiful trees, and well deserving of a place in the park or ornamental plantation. C. orientalis (the Eastern Thorn), found wild in the Crimea and northern borders of the Black Sea, is a small busby tree of about 20 feet in height, introduced in 1810. The leaves are deeply lobed, downy on the under side. The flowers are white, expanding in June. The fruit is very large, eatable, of a deep purplish-red colour, and ripe about September. It is a distinct and neat-growing lawn or shrubbery tree, and ought to be better known. C. Douglasii (Douglas's Thorn), indigenous to North-west America, from whence it was first sent home in 1827, is a strong, growing shrub or small tree of from 10 to 15 feet in height. The leaves arc obovate, sometimes ovate. serrated, dark shining green, changing, as they decay, to a dark red. The flowers are white, and generally expand in Juno. The fruit is small, but produced in great abundance, of a deep red, almost purple colour, and ripo about September. It iB a very distinct and interesting plant for a mixed shrubbery, most effective either when in bloom or when laden with its rich. coloured fruit, which it retains till late in the season. C. Pyracantha (the Pyracantha). — This is an evergreen specios indigenous to the south of Europe, whoro it is found as a spreading bush, with long slender branches, rarely rising higher than about 10 feet ; it has been in cnlivation here Bince 1629. The leaves are entire, crennated, and of an ovate-lanceolate form. The flowers are white, produced in large corymbs, and usually in perfection in May. The fruit, which it rarely fails to produce in great abundance, is brilliant scarlet, ripe about September, and remaining on the plant during the greaterpart of the winter, and even sometimes till the spring. The yellow-fruited variety, fructo-lutea, though not so striking, is, nevertheless, a fine companion plant to the species. Though some- times grown as a shrub in the open border, or grafted as a standard on the common Hawthorn, and as such very ornamental, this species is at once best known and most useful as a wall or trellis plant, for either of which purposes, particularly the former, it has few rivals. Whether we take into account freeness of growth, elegance of foliage, or the striking beauty of either flowers or fruit, it can scarcely be too Btrongly recommended where a thoroughly hardy plant is wanted for the decoration of a villa dwelling, or a flower- garden wall. It delights in a dry but rich soil, and thrives all the better for an occasional supply of well-rotted manure. — The Gardener. PERSONAL. Messrs. Carter's challenge cup will again he offered for competition at the provincial exhibition of the Royal Horticultural Society, should one be held this year, and along with it £10 10s. as first prize; the second, third, and fourth prizes being of the value of £7 7s., £5 5s., and £3 3s. respectively. Other prizes for vegetables, of considerable value, are also offered by this firm. MM. Nardy & Co. have established at Salvadour, near Hyeres, a nursery which, from the reputation of its founder and its climatic advantages, will probably prove of importance in the introduction of new plants. MM. Nardy liberally offer to botanists, directors of botanic gardens, horticultural societies, and the like, the opportunity of using their grounds as trial grounds for testing the hardiness and applica- bility of new plants, and promise to report progress regularly to those interested. The King of Italy has conferred the honour of Commander of the Order of the Crown of Italy on MM. Linden and Ronnberg, and that of Chevalier on MM. Bernard, Dalliere, Kegeljan, and Morren. The immediate occasion of these honours was the International Horticultural Exhibition at Florence. Mr. J. C. Marsh, for some years gardener to J. O. Bacchus, Esq., of Leamington, and well known as a successful exhi- bitor, is said to have perished in the ill-fated ship, Cospatrick. On New Year's Eve Messrs. Cranston and Mayo treated the workpeople employed in their nursery at King's Acre, Hereford, to a supper, concert, and ball. NOTES AND QUESTIONS. [The following notes and questions came to hand, or were answered, too late for insertion in their several departments.] Draining Lawns or Cricket Grounds.— Would any of the readers of Tits Garden favour us with their experience as to the proper depth of drains for lawns or cricket grounds ? The sub-soil in our case is peat. — W. J., Lancashire t The Belgian Mole Trap. — Have any of your readers used this trap, or can they inform me if it is in any way superior to any of the mole traps generally in use in this country. — Enquibeb. Some Good Wall Roses : L. H. Jules Mnrgottin, Celine Forestier, Fellcn- berg, Lamarque, Ophirie, Gloire do Dijon, Climbing Devoniensis, Red Rover, and Climbing Victor Verdier. Hardy Amaryllids: W. T. S. Amaryllis Belladonna is ahardy bulb, which does admir.ibly when planted rather deeply in good soil at the foot of a south wall. 7t" ( ';nnelli:i. hnuso walls. They would bring to them almost tho only gift Nature has withheld from Camellias— fragrance ; while their leaves and flowers would harmonise well with those of tho Camellia. — F. THE FRUIT GARDEN. THE GRAPE VINE. Pruning. Last week I brought the subject down to the close of the second year's treatment, and I think I stated the directions there given were applicable to subsequent years. I will now only refer to the subject of pruning after this period. There are various ways of pruning the Vine ; but the most general and best system is that usually termed the " spur," which is the simplest and most easily understood, and may be practised under all circumstances, whether the " restriction " or " exten- sion " system be adopted. It may be shortly described. Supposing we have a one-year-old cane to deal with, and that it is started the second year, the buds will break along each side; these are stopped at the fifth, sixth, or seventh joint, as the case may be, and as has been described in the last number ; and at the end of the season, when the leaves have fallen and the wood is ripe, each shoot is cut close back to within one or two eyes of the main stem, leaving the cane nearly as bare as a walking-stick. The following year the buds left will break without fail, and sometimes adventitious buds will push also at the base of the shoots ; but all are rubbed off at an early stage, and only one (the strongest) shoot is left at each place. At the end of the season this shoot is, in its turn, again cutback to within one or two buds of the base, leaving the main cane naked as before ; and the operation is repeated year after year in the same way. In the course of time a knurr is formed by this continual cutting back; but it is many years before the spur gets so long as to be unsightly or inconvenient, as is alleged by the opponents of the system ; for the older the Vine gets it manifests a greater disposition to " break back," which enables one to keep the shoot " at home " without inter- fering with the crop. It is a known fact, with regard to spur- pruned Vines, that they always yield the most compact bunches, and the fruit is not so liable to shank. Going back now to our young Vines at the end of the second year, the grower will perceive that his duty — after shortening the leaders of the permanent Vines and of the back row of supernumera- ries to within 2 or 3 feet of last year's cut — is to cut the side- shoots close back to within one or two buds of the main stem, and to repeat this practice annually, until the permanent Vines occupy the space allotted to them, and the supernumeraries are removed when no longer wanted. The third year the perma- nent Vines will each bear a few bunches, and moderate cropping should be the rule. Nothing ruins a Vine so soon as heavy cropping ; and they will assuredly defeat their pur- pose who are greedy in this respect. Rules for cropping can hardly be laid down, so much depends upon the health of the Vines ; but from 24 to 80 lbs. to the 20-foot rafter is not too much to expect regularly under ordinary circumstances. We have seldom taken less than this off our Vines during the last nine years, without any signs of distress being shown. Extension of Vines by the Spur System. It is a wise practice to allow a good area of wood and foliage to each Viue, but it is a mistake, in more ways than one, to devote a house entirely to a single Vine, thereby risking every- thing upon the well-being of one plant. The extension system of training may be carried out sufficiently without going this length, and the spur mode of training affords facilities for doing so in a very simple and methodical manner. Supposing that we had a house occupied by twelve Vines, and that we desired to fill it with three only, and to accomplish this without interfering materially with the cropping of the others while the three were being extended to fill their place, we should select the three plants we wished to retain, and during the growing season lead off one young shoot at each side from the bottom of the stem, about in a line with the bottom wire, and train it up between the parent Vine and the one next to it for 5 or 0' feet, or even to the top of the rafters if this could be done without crowding or injuring the bearing Vines, whose well-being are equally important while they are wanted. At the winter pruning the young canes would be cut back to within 2 or 3 feet of the bottom wire, and this portion would be expected to bear fruit the following season ; and as there Jan. 16, 1875.] THE GARDEN. 45 would not be room for its development between the older Vines, we should shave the spurs clean off the nearest old Vine — which, it is supposed, is one of those to be removed eventually — as far up the stem as the young cane would reach, and tie the latter to it, thus making it do duty for the spurs which we had removed to make room for it. The next year the leading shoot would be again carried forward, as before, to the top of the rafters, and, in addition, another shoot would be led away from the base of the young cane, as the latter had A Spur-trained Vine in Process of Extension. been the previous year from the parent stem, to replace the next Vine again, and so on annually until the three Vines had occupied the house. J. S. (To he continued.) BOUGHT VINES BETTER THAN HOME-GROWN ONES. Such terms as "spindly," "long jointed," "big pithed," "soft wooded," and " tender rooted," aro often applied to young "trade" Vines ; but, of the two sorts, viz., home-grown and market grown, I certainly prefer the latter, both for fruiting in pots and for plauting ont. In fact, for any purpose young Vines can be bought cheaper than they can be raised at home. I have known many skilful Grape growers who have tried to grow good fruiting pot Vines year after year, and who have as often failed. These, too, are by no means exceptional cases ; not one in fifty who require young Vines use those of their own raising. It is a mistake to suppose that all market Vines are forced into fine-looking canes on a strong bottom- heat. I have seen thousands of them grown without bottom. heat or other undue stimulating agency. Indeed, if there be one thing more than another to which extra care and attention are given in nursery establishments it is young Vines. Where pot Vines are fruited annually, as they are in many places, it is certainly to the nursery, man's advantage to supply his customers with good Vines, the demand for which is yearly increasing ; and, where conveniences and facilities exist for raising large quantities of them, as is the case about places in which their cultivation is made a speciality, they can be raised much cheaper than they could be in any private garden. Nevertheless, those who will only give a third-class price for their Vines must be content with a third-class article. The advent of the Phylloxera gave the advocates for home-grown Vines an opportunity of depicting the consequences which might follow the introduc. tion of any Vine which had been raised outside the Vinery in which it was to be grown ; but, though caution is necessary, it need not be carried so far in this ease, as it has been proved that the Phylloxera may be introduced with other plants besides the Vine. I do not, in short, think it will ever become common for cultivators to propagate their own Vines ; but, should I be mistaken, this much I know, that considerable improvement in many ways will have to take place before home-grown Vines will equal those now so readily obtainable at nurseries in which their growth is made a speciality. J. Muir. A few of the best Fruit as Proved by the Great Fruit Show. — Among Apples, Cox's Orange Pippin holds the first rank, and deservedly so ; almost every one wild' grows first-class Apples grows that. It is, perhaps, without a rival, either for dessert or for kitchen use. At last the fact is beginning to dawn on housekeepers and cooks that the best eating Apples very often prove also the best cooking Apples ; over and above that, it is cheaper to have the requisite amount of sugar prepared by natural means for us within the Apple than to purchase it from the grocer. The Rib- ston Pippin is a splendid second, if not, as many would affirm, an equal first. In many localities the tree is much given to canker, but where it does well it is, as every one knows, first-rate. King of the Pippins is also an Apple of first-rate merit, and generally a fine cropper, as is the Cockle Pippin. Notwithstanding all that has been said about the degeneracy of the Golden Pippin — that it is quite worn out — it is still a gem among dessert Apples, and con. tinues to be shown in force. The Scarlet, White, and Braddick's Non. pareil also continue to hold first rank among the most deliriously sweet and crisp dessert Apples. The Cornish Gillyflower, Cornish Aromatic, Golden Reinette, Red Colville, and other well-known favourites, still continue to hold their own at the great shows. Among the best and most useful kitchen Apples may be named Reinette du Canada, Alfriston, Blenheim Orange, Beauty of Kent, Wellington, Gloria Mundi, Bess Pool, Norfolk Beaufin, Incomparable' and Northern Greening. In Pears Marie Louise still holds the first place, closely followed by Beurre Diel, Beurre Ranee. Beurre Clairgeau, Doyenne du Cornice, Pitmaston Duchesse d'Angouleme (a new and distinct Pear), Winter Nelis, Glou Morceau, Doyenne Boussoch, Van Mons Leon le Clerc. These sorts occur in almost every collection, proving at once their sterling merit and standing popu. larity. The Catillac and Uvedale's St. Germain are almost the only stewing Pears that receive any attention from the best cultivators ; and, indeed, they are of so fine an appearance and quality that none other are needed. We, however, prefer to grow our sugar in our Pears rather than to purchase it ; and, consequently, to stew some of the finest dessert Pears, such as Duchesse d'Angouleme, Marie Louise, Gansel's Bergamot, Beurre Diel, Vicar of Winkfield, &c, " Villa Gardener." Orchard Peach Culture.— The rules in regard to Peach culture generally adopted by the orchardists of the Delaware and Maryland dis. trict, are given at length in " The Rural Southland." Any soil capable of producing annually good crops of corn will do for the Peach, and even very light land will answer, provided it has a good sub-soil at a convenient depth. Plough and harrow thoroughly, and draw furrows 17 or 18 feet apart each way. Where the farrows intersect, dig the holes. Trim the bruised roots carefully, dip them in thick mud, and as you fill in the earth trample it firm. Throw two furrows towards the tree on each side. Plough the land and raise cultivated cropB between the trees the first three years, and as soon as they be»in to bear/give a spring ploughing for two years more, and, an occasional harrowing to keep down weeds, after which allow it to come in with Grass, which promotes fruit-bearing, and prevents a surplus of useless wood. A Hint on Vine Cropping.— Cropping Vines too heavily is a prevailing error in Grape growing. Presuming that the rafter is, say, 21 feet long, that the young Vines are to bear to a third of this length the first year, and that the Vines show more than a bunch to each shoot — remove them all but one to a shoot as soon as they are far enough advanced to be got hold of ; and after the berries are set — presuming that the bunches are large, as they generally are in young Vines — remove all but four bunches on every rod. This will leave eight bunches on a Vine. Of course, the largest and most shapely are generally left ; and in most cases it may be presumed they will average at least 2 lbs. or more. This is crop sufficient for the first year in the case of permanent Vines. None of these bunches should be left on the leading shoots, which should not be stopped this year till they reach the top of the house. When the Vines are in full bearing 11 lbs. of Grapes to every foot run of the main stem of the Vine may be regarded as a fair crop. — "The Gardener." Furnishing a South-west Wall with Fruit Trees.— Your correspondent, Mr. Hook, will find the Verrier Palmetto illustrated in No. 323, p. 271, of The Garden. His vertically trained trees will supply him with fruit (and do so as well as riders) until the trees that are to remain and occupy the wall come into bearing. If Cordons are not approved of I would plant the horizontally- trained trees in the places where they are to remain, and allow them a year to get well established, taking care that the lowest pair of branches are carefully trained, at first independently of the Vines, encouraging their growth by making them take a gentle rise ; and retarding all the others by occasional stopping. The Pear, especially in some of its varieties, is inclined to be impatient of restraint, and there is a tendency in the sap to desert the extremities of the horizontal shoots and to throw all the vigour into the leading thoot or shoots. At the winter pruning I would cut away all but the lower pair, leaving a portion only of the main stem to supply the branches for the following year. (See The Garden, "Vol. VI, p. 243.) It is better not to trust entirely to the wires until the trees have been got into a good form. Du Breuil'sbookon fruit trees, which Mr. Hook should obtain, will show him that any horizontally trained tree can be converted at any time into a Verrier Palmette. A most useful book for fruit-growers is Baltet's Book on Budding and Grafting ; especially would I call attention to the means given at p. 54 for renewing an important branch in cases of accident.— B. S. 46 THE GARDEN. [Jajt. 16, 1875. THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. Bv THOMAS BAINES. The Horse-radish Bed.— This, in an amateur's garden, is often a neglected corner. It need not necessarily occupy the best situation in the garden; but it should neither be thrust into a corner nor made under trees, where it is both smothered overhead and impoverished at the roots. Choose a piece of ground moderately open ; and, although Horse-radish will grow in strong heavy soil, it will do much better in such as is rather open ; for which reason, if the land is very retentive, dig in 8 or 10 inches of rotten vegetable matter from the refuse-heap, leaf mould, or old tan ; if the latter, it must be such as has been used for fermenting pur. poses the year before, for, if at all new, it will prove injurious to the roots. If there be depth enough of soil, dig the ground 2 feet deep ; but do not bring too much of the raw under-soil to the surface— simply loosen it well, and incorporate Bome of the rotten materials with it. If the ground be light enough naturally, dig in a moderate dressing of manure. Under the old system of growing this root, the crowns only were planted, dropping them into holes made a foot or more in depth; but, when planted in this way, the principal or useful portion of root often becomes forked. A better plan is to open a trench at one end of what we will suppose is the existing bed, as deep as the principal roots have gone, and to take out the whole of the roots, placing all that are fit for use in a corner out of the way ; then select the straight whipthong-like roots for planting ; the longer they can be got the better, up to 15 or 18 inches. In planting, use a stout 18-inch dibber for making the holes ; unless the soil is of more than ordinary depth ; make the latter slanting at an angle of about 45°, and into each hole place one of the long roots sufficiently deep to allow the top to be covered about an inch, press- ing the soil close to it throughout its length. The holes should be in rows 18 inches apart, and 15 inches asunder ; nothing more will be required through the season, except keeping the ground clear of weeds. With good plants in deep soil well manured, roots may be grown in a single season, by this method, as much as 2 or 3 lb. weight each. Where Horse-radish is thus well-grown, half the ground usually employed will be found sufficient. Being a plant that commences to grow early in spring, the sooner it is now planted the better. Thorn and other Hedges. — These should now receive their winter cutting, and, unless they have arrived at the full size required, and are very strong, they should not be cut at any other season ; summer-cutting any deciduous plant has a much more weakening effect than the same operation has if carried out when the leaves are off. Evergreen hedges such as those of Holly, Yew, or Laurel, should not be cut until the end of March, just before they begin to grow; Privet may be cut at any time during the winter, after all danger from severe frost is over. Radishes, &c. — If the weather keeps open, a bed or two of early frame or short-top Radish should at once be sown ; for early work sow double the quantity of seed required later in the season, as birds and slugs aro almost sure to take a portion when the crop appears above ground ; as soon as sown cover the beds with 2 inches of litter, upon which lay some Pea or Runner Bean sticks, to keep it from being blown about. Cauliflower plants in frames and under hand-lights, must have air in abundance whenever the weather is favourable, not merely tilting the lights, but taking them off; otherwise they become weak and drawn, often buttoning, that is, merely producing small premature heads. Cabbage Lettuce should be similarly treated. Small autumn-sown Cos Lettuce in frames must have abundance of air at all times when the weather is mild, but the soil must not be allowed to get at all wet for some time to come, or it will induco damping. Go over the spring Cabbage bed and draw the soil close up to the stems as high as the under leaves, especially if the plants have been loosened by the wind, and the stems have worked a hole in the soil round them, for if the ground gets frozen whilst in that state the wind will chafe the stems so as to kill the plants ; this often happens, whereas if the soil was kept drawn close to the stems no injury would occur. List of Useful Vegetables. — As amateurs are frequently perplexed by the great number of vegetables offered, the subjoined are all good, and may be taken as fairly suitable for most soils: — J'eas. — Sangster's No. 1, William the First, Cullingford's Champion, James' Prolific, the best of the Veitch's Perfection type, Emperor of the Marrows, and Ne Plus Ultra. Cabbage. — Cocoanut and Enfield Market; Savoy — Dwarf Green. Carrots. — Early Red Horn and James' New Scarlet. Cauliflower. — Early London and Veitch's Autumn Giant. Celery. — Cole's Crystal White and Williams' Matchless Red. Brussels Sprouts.— Roseberry and Imported Dwarf. Broccoli. — Backhouse's White, Snow's Winter White, and Williams' Alexandra. KoIp. — Dwarf Green Curled and Cottager's Kale, Broad Beans. — Mazagan and Early Long Pod. French Beans. — Negro and Paris Red Flageolet, with Osboru's Now Forcing for pots. Runner Beans. — Scarlet. Beet. — Dell's Crimson, White Silesian. Cress. — Plain-leaved and American. Cucumber. — Rollisson's Telegraph. Leek. — Musselburgh. Endive. — Green Batavian and Green Curled. Lettuce (Cabbage). — Wheeler's Tom Thumb, Neapolitan, and Hammersmith Hardy Green. Lettuce (Cos). — London, Victoria, and Black-seeded Bath. Parsnip. — The Student. Parsley. — Myatt's Curled. Onions. — Nuneham Park, James' Long.keeping, Brown Globe, and Brown Tripoli. Radishes. — Short-topped Frame, Red and White Olive-shaped. £pima,c7i.— Round and Prickly. Tomato. — Hathaway's Excelsior. Turnips. — Early White Stone and Red Top American Stone. The above are all proved kinds, such as anyone may venture to grow, and in most cases will be found to be sufficient for all purposes. Glass-houses. — In the stove or forcing pit a box of Mustard may be sown once every eight days ; where a continuous supply is required longer intervals than this must not occur betwixt each sowing, or it gets old and tough ; a little plain Cress may also be similarly sown. It is now time to think about several bedding-plants that can be raised from seed, amongst which are the Silver-leaved Centaureas ; if seeds of any of the varieties of these are at once sown in heat, and pushed on until the spring, they will yet make fine plants by bedding.out time ; sow in shallow pans in fine sifted soil, to which has been added a little thoroughly rotten leaf mould and some sand, barely cover the seed with soil, and slightly keep it damp until germination has taken place. Where carpet-bedding is carried out, the Golden Pyrethrum is indispensable, being required in large quantities to act as a sort of setting for plants possessing more colour. If sown now in heat, finer plants of it may be had by turning.out time than those that are propagated by division, and which have such a disposition to flower. The dwarf Imperial Blue Ageratnm, is a most useful bedding plant ; if there be not a sufficiency of autumn. struck plants of it, or stocks from which to take cuttings Bhortly, seeds of it should at once be sown. For carpet-bedding purposes, the crimson Iresine Lindeni and Alter, nantheras are largely in request, and their propagation should be forthwith attended to until sufficient stock of them is obtained. Humea elegans looks well either in a pot for greenhouse decoration or planting out, but to grow it well it must never be stinted for want of pot room; if the summer. sown plants have filled their pots with roots, at once move them into others of sufficient capacity for their growth until the time of planting out ; for, if re-potting be deferred too long, the under leaves suffer, which destroys the appearance of the plants. Ordinary loam, well enriched, forms a good compost for this plant, which is, however, very subject to the attacks of aphides, and these quickly disfigure the leaves if allowed to remain on them for any length of time. Look over all the stock of bedding plants to see that they are free from aphides ; if such are found on them, fumigate at once, for in the case of Verbenas and similar plants usually pro- pagated in spring, if not quite clean now, they are much more difficult to deal with when the cuttings have to be put in to strike or the plants placed in heat to produce cuttings, than they are now. In greenhouses where no more heat is used than is necessary to exclude frost, it is advisable all through this and the ensuing month to make a fire twice a week or so, to dispel damp ; this should always be done early in the day so as to allow the pipes to get cold, or nearly so, by shutting-up time ; give a little air every mild day, more particularly at the roof ventilators ; by such means any surplus moisture in the atmosphere is allowed to escape. Vegetable Parchment. — In the course of a lecture delivered by Dr. Stevenson Macadam before the British Association of Gas Managers in 1873, " On the physico-chemical properties of gasses," he described the mode of making vegetable parchment, which he required to use in illustrating one of his experiments, in the following terms : — " I take a piece of ordinary blotting-paper — a paper which you know has no great Btrength of itself, and which, if passed as I now pass it, simply through water, comes out in such a condition that you can tear it readily to pieces, foi there is no cohesive strength in it whatever. But let me take a sheet of the same paper and pass it through the oil of vitrol and water, then transfer it to the second vessel containing the ammonia and water, so as to neutralise a portion of the acid left in it, and subsequently wash it thoroughly (I now take it out, and I have a paper which is like a piece of leather), it is so tough that you try in vain to tear it to pieces. This paper forms about the best material for carrying on our experiments in the dialysis of liquids. But there is one point in reference to the prepara- tion of the paper which I may mention, and that is, that in the first vessel you must have exactly two parts of vitrol and one of water ; neither more nor less will do. If you have it stronger, it will not do, nor will anything weaker. This paper can be bought ready mado under the name of De la Rue's Parchment Paper. Jan. 16, 1875.] THE GARDEN. 47 THE LIBRARY. THE HISTOEY OP THE ROBINS * Many of our readers are well acquainted with the " History of the Robins," by Mrs. Trimmer, a book which has passed through several editions during the past half century. It has, however, never been so attractive as now, when M. Giacomelli has embellished its pages with his beautiful illustrations. As a book for children it is not too much to say that it is a valuable as well as an amusing one, for it teaches much that it is the desire of parents that their children should learn, and it does this in so humorous and playful a manner that the lessons which it contains can never be irksome to those who receive them. We are enabled to give two out of the seventy engravings which the work contains, and these, although they are of the smaller kind, will afford some assistance in forming an opinion of one of the great charms of the book. In other re- spects this book is handsomely got up, and we can conscientiously recommend it to all j'ouug people, whilst older readers will find much within its pages to please the eye, even if they are otherwise uninterested in its contents. -V.cri- CO-OPERATIVE PARMING.f To learn that a system which has been most successful in other branches of industry, has, when applied to agriculture and market gardening, proved exactly the reverse, might be apt to lead us to hasty conclusions whilst seeking out the true cause of failure. The volume under notice is the history of the farm and market gardens at Blennerhassett, established by Mr. Lawson in 1862, and from 1867 to 1872 carried on upon co-operative principles, at a loss, as we gather from the contents, of about £18,000 in the ten years. It is not necessary to bestow --/-. . :v- _: more than ordinary attention upon the pages of this most amusing and interesting work to discover that it is not the system of industrial co-operation that must be held responsible for the loss that shows on the balance- sheet ; the failures must rather be attributed to a mis- management which is very candidly acknowledged, but which was none the less fatal because it sprang from a generous desire to aid the working man and culminated in somewhat reckless attempts to accomplish that object. Prom the moment that Mr. Lawson's steam plough made its appearance on the estate, was the " Model Farm Vignette from the "History of the Robins.' the name the latter received and, so far as the provision made by the owner for the moral and physical welfare of his labourers goes, the term was far from being misapplied ; a model of success in other respects it certainly was not, and it is very clear that Mr. Lawson, in his wish to benefit others, lost sight of himself, and, by attempting too many things at once, almost entirely failed in his principal object. In the first place the expenses heincurred at the start fordraining theland 5feet deep, for buildings, steam plough, machinery, &c, were enormous; * "History of the Robins." By Mrs. Trimmer. With seventy illustrations by Giacomelli. London : T. Nelson & Sons, Paternoster Row. t "Ten Years of Gentleman Farming at Blennerhasset, with co-operative objects." By William Lawson, Charles D. Hunter, F.C.S., and others, London : Longmans, Green, & Co. but in addition to this a dozen different businesses that should have been worked on independent basis were combined in the scheme, and helped to smother it. A farm alone it was not, but included market gardens, a Plax scutching establishment, laboratory, artificial manure manufactory, library, free school, besides grocer's shops. It was, it would almost seem, an attempt to create a small independent community, and wanting the elements of success inasmuch as it was not the outcome of necessity, and was of artificial rather than natural growth, it failed. It is unnecessary here to give any description of the proceedings when the farming of the 420 acres was commenced, or to do more than quote Mr. Lawson's words, " how profusely I laid out money, making thousands of yards of good new roads, draining the land 5 feet deep and 10 yards apart, and taking thousands of tons of stones out of the ground ; how, during several years I bought and fed animals and sold them at a loss ; how I deceived myself, and was deceived by others, in various ways, can be sufficiently well imagined without being de- scribed." We will proceed to the year 1867, when Mr. Lawson's labourers had consented to work on the co-operative system, or, rather, had consented to take their regular wages and a tenth of the profits accruing after interest of 2i per cent, upon capital had been received, and have an advising voice in the management of the estate. The " Co-operator," at the time, characterised the undertaking as " not only an admirable way to avoid strikes, but a Christian and pleasant method of dealing with our fellow-men." However this may be, the balance-sheet of 1867 showed nothing over 2i per cent, interest on the capital, and, in fact, from losses one way and another, this state of things, varying somewhat from year to year, went on to the end of the" chapter. No one can peruse this book without being struck with the candid manner in which inexperience is acknowledged as one cause of failure, and by the disin- terested conduct of Mr. Law- , son from beginning to end. He has taken the trouble to publish criticisms on his man- agement that he himself called for, and these may be read side by side with the practical, but often humourous, account of the proceedings on the farm. It is a book that must be of very great value to cultivators of all kinds, for it points out what to avoid and what to adopt; and in this last act — the publication of his book — Mr. Lawson gives one more instance of his public spirit and his desire to waive all con- siderations of self when he is working for the good of others. There are not many persons who would be found bold enough to publish the result of an unsuccessful enterprise, side by side with adverse opinions asked for and given at the time the operations were being conducted, merely for the sake of showing what can be accomplished in the same direction, and what is likely to fail. We make the following extract, bearing upon the garden operations in connection with the establishment. In the interval between deciding to farm the Blennerhasset farm and entering upon it, Mr. Lawson visited many of the great market gardens, and private gardens as well, in both England and Scotland. Among others, he visited some experimental gardens at Edinburgh, the nursery gardens of Peter Lawson & Son, some gardens in the Carse of Gowrie, and many in different parts of England, including those at Ilolkcr Hall, " where they grow excellent Grapes, and plant Potatoes in November." In February, 1861, the garden was first laid out, and soon after- 48 THE GAEDEN. [Jan. 16, 1875. wards a small plantation and hedge were planted around it. By November, 1,000 Gooseberry bushes and many hundreds of fruit trees had been planted, Mr. Lawson engaging his father's head gardener to plant every one with his own hands. Things evidently looked well at this time, for in December, when hia father's steward valued the estate, the 16 acres of garden land were estimated at £150 per acre. Meantime marketing was begun, but proved rather an expensive mode of sale ; the cost of man, and horse, and tolls often amounting to nearly one-fourth of the sales. Bat sometimes it was worse ; for in June, 1865, a man was sent to Silloth, a watering-place 10 miles to the north, where good prices were obtained for vegetables and fruit ; but night came and he did not appear. Next day a second man was sent to find him, and, though he was successful, the cause of the delay and the cheapness of the sales were never clearly explained. Strawberries and Rhubarb proved the most paying crops ; for the farm generally grew better Potatoes and Cabbages than the garden did. Why, it is difficult to say — the chemist claiming that his chemical manure, which the farm used largely and the garden but little, was the cause of superiority, and others attributing it to soil and rotation. Subjoined is a list, rejecting fractions for brevity, of the annual sales of the more important products : — The variety and tendency of our garden cropping will be best shown by the following table, which gives the extent of land under the different crops. But it must be borne in mind that some of the land was under two crops ; 5J acres, included in the table, also con- taining Gooseberry bushes or other fruit trees, Cabbages or other crops being grown between : — GARDEN CROPPING IN 1868. Acres Roods. Acres Rood Potatoes 5 1 Strawberries ... 1 14 Cabbages 2 H Fruit trees ... 0 li Peas ... 1 1 Currants, &c. ... 0 1} Tares ... 1 0i Rhubarb ... 0 l Onions ... 1 0 Grass ... 0 3 Carrots ... 0 3 Roads ... 0 3i Plantations 2 35 — Cuttings and seeds ... 1 0 Total 20 n Young Thorns ... 0 2} Many of the above quantities represent three or four different plots, and a few minor crops have been omitted. The fruit trees, it will be seen, occupied 6 acres, but they did not do very well, though perhaps six years is too short a period in which to judge of the success of a new fruit plantation. In 1867, 8 acres of good loamy soil were added to the garden land, and further extension was contemplated. At this time the cropping sheet system was just begun, and the gardener showed (on paper) such enormous profits per acre, that gardening threatened to oust farming altogether. Leeks were to clear £76 per acre, Onions £66, and other crops in proportion. Below, a few figures are given which will indicate the progress of the garden. Like that of the farm, it is a progress in the right direction, the sales per acre reaching £20 in 1871, tho expenditure at the same time decreasing. The manure was almost entirely farm- yard : GARDEN ACCOUNTS. 1864 1865 1866 L667 1869 1869 1870 H71 £■ £, e £ ,C £ U Wages 29 195 382 199 185 167 169 170 Plants and Trees 42 J. -12 60 16 49 13 27 Manure 12 27 62 61 r,o 17 SalCH of Produce 12 106 170 -III 209 102 21.-, 112 Stock in December 128 260 466 551 467 Profit 00 47 :il It 18 Losu CO 01 313 It is easily seen that in the earlier years when planting, &c, were active, the wages greatly exceeded the sales ; but, after 1866, there was a manifest improvement, so that in 1871 the sales were nearly three times as large as the wages. Indeed, the concern was then clearing itself, and perhaps might have been made really profitable in time. Our critic, however, thinks not; as he says, " each suc- ceeding year brought more weeds, more work, and, consequently, more wages to pay ; and, while such was the case, the fruit, which ought year after year to have increased in quantity, seemed to be all but an entire failure. Since Mr. Lawson sold the estate I have had an opportunity of seeing the sub. soil, and find it to be a clean gravel, thus giving at once a clue to the cause of the failure of the fruit." Certainly the laud was, as our critic remarks, very foul by 1871, but that was an unusual year for weeds; and it is doubtful if, taking season for season, the land was much worse than in 1862. The balance sheet for the whole period shows a net loss of £339 lis. lid., the land being valued as neither better nor worse ; the £2,458 10s. 3d. transferred to land and buildings account, including £364 10s. 3d. worth of trees, plants, and other fixed stock. This loss, it will be noticed, occurred before 1867, the later years doing much better, but never making enough to pay rent, which, at £3 an acre, would have amounted to £60. Latterly, a considerable extent of the garden land was devoted to farm crops, such as hay and Oats, £229 of the sales in 1871 being for such crops ; and this prevents a fair estimate of the gardening expenditure. Roughly divided, the wages averaged over the eight years £10 per acre, the manure £1 14s., the sales £11, and the loss (no rent or interest being charged) £2 6s. per acre. Much of tho garden land could be reached by the irrigation hose, and to this wo largely owe our success in growing Rhubarb and Strawberries, the latter crop in 1869 growing £49 worth of Strawberries on about 1 statute acre. important by obser- of vege- Frora the Hofmann Italy How the Spring Travels Northward. — An contribution to knowledge of a climate is afforded vation of the time at which the separate phases tation (leafing, flowering, and fruit-ripening), occur. Austrian Meteorological Zeitschrift we learn that M. took the opportunity, during a journey through March and April, of making observations on this subject. From numerous data collected in Central Europe, it has been shown that a difference of latitude of 1° corresponds in general to an acceleration or retardation of the development of vegetation about three days and three-quarters. M. Hofmann considered twelve different plants, which, growing at railway stations, were specially suitable for the investigation. The times of flowering, 4c, are compared with that at Giessen, and the differences are shown on a map. The following numbers will give some idea of the earlier occurrence of epochs of vegetation at the places named : — Venice, nine days ; Ferrai'a, eleven; Bologna, fourteen ; Florence, twenty. six ; Rome, twenty -three ; Frascate, twenty -two ; Naples, thirty-five ; Caserta, eighteen ; Pisa, sixteen ; Genoa, thirty ; Savona, thirty-two. A LILY IN WINTER. How withered, perished seems the form Of yon obscure unsightly root ! Yet from the blight of wintry storm, It hides secure the precious fruit. Yes, in that bulb, those sapless scales, The Lily wraps her silver vest. Till vernal suns and vernal gales Shall kiss onco more her fragrant breast. Oh ! many a stormy night shall close In gloom upon the barren earth, While still, in undisturbed ropose, Uninjured lies the future birth. Sweet smile of hope, delicious tear ! The sun, the shower indeed shall come ; The promised verdant shoot appear, And Nature bid her blossoms bloom. And thou, O virgin queen of spring ! Shalt, from thy dark aud lowly bed, Bnrstiug thy green sheath's silken striug, Unveil thy charms, and perfume shed ; Unfold thy robos of purest white, Unsullied from their darksome grave, And thy soft petals' silvery light In the mild breeze unfettered wave. —Mrs. Tighe. Jan. 16, 1875.] THE GARDEN. 49 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. MELON AND CUCUMBER CULTURE ON HOTBEDS. Though the hotbed has been superseded to a great extent by hot- water pipes, it still remains one of the institutions of tho garden, especially in places of moderate extent, and often does good service as Melon, Cucumber, and propagating frame generally — that is, when it is constructed and made use of as it should be. We have known gentlemen taking a personal interest in their garden, who, though they could get on creditably with the Vinery, Peach-house, and orchard-house, had to confess themselves beaten with their Cucumber frame. Sometimes the complaint is that it does not heat sufficiently ; or, again, that the fermentation is too violent, followed by a proportionately quick subsidence — evils always causing much loss of time, and traceable to causes that may easily be avoided. A moderate and steady temperature is what is required, and this can be secured by a well-made hotbed for nearly twelve months. We were once in charge where making the hotbed formed one of the most important operations of the year. Though more modern conveniences were to be had, the hotbed was preferred as a propagating bed for all subjects, and served its purpose well. It supported a wooden frame, 9 feet long and 5 feet wide, and out of this small space forty or fifty thousand struck cuttings of bedding plants were turned every year, from the beginning of March till the end of April. From April to the end of November it was never idle as a propagating and nursing pit for more select subjects ; and after the frame was removed the heap came in as a fund of well. rotted manure. Materials and Making. The materials required for a lasting hotbed are stable litter and leaves in about equal quantities. In the absence of leaves we have used old half-decayed hotbed manure, refuse turf choppings, and old bedding plants, from the rubbish heap, or any other mate- rials that were likely to moderate the fermentation of the stable litter — materials to be had in every establishment of the most moderate pretensions. The first consideration is the selection of a site for the bed, which should always be in a dry and sheltered situa- tion. Nothing extracts the heat so rapidly as cold winds ; indeed, where a hotbed is made up annually, it is better to have it sunk two-thirds in the ground. It would be preferable, in fact, to have it wholly in the ground ; but, as the bed will settle down at least one-third of its height during the summer, the frame would get below the ground line, which would be inconvenient. For a frame 9 feet by 5 the pit would need to be 14 feet long and 10 wide : and if the bed were intended to last eight or nine months, it would require to be 4. feet deep, which, allowing one-third of the bed to be above ground, would give a total depth of 6 feet of fermenting material. If the pit be double-boarded with strong rough deal, so as to form a 2-inch cavity all round between the earth and the sides of the bed, the heat will last a considerable time longer, as the cavity prevents the bed from being robbed of its heat by the cold earth. Another advantage of having a pit for the bed is that the latter is a great deal easier made, for it requires a skilled hand to bnild up a compact and permanent hotbed on the surface of the ground. Whatever kind of site is prepared, the next step is to have the materials (litter and leaves) placed conveniently near. These may be thrown roughly together the first time, sprink- ling plenty of water upon them if they are at all dry. In a week or ten days the heap will usually be found to be heating violently, when it should be turned over again, taking care to mix the litter and leaves*intimately this time, shaking every particle up thoroughly, and adding more water if it appears to be required. A week later or so it will want another turning, which, as a rule, ought to be sufficient to bring it into a fit condition for making up into a bed, even though it be heating strongly, for the temperature will subside a good deal after the materials are well trodden down. Making the bed is an operation which should not be dallied over, but all hands should be set to work at it ; and, after the outlines of the foundation have been marked off, the bed should be built up layer upon layer, spreading the litter thinly and evenly, and treading every square foot firmly and in a systematic manner until the last particle is put on, when the bed, if it has been done skilfully, should be about 1 foot lower at the front than the back, square and neat, and as firmly knit together as a haystack. The bed completed, if the weather be cold and windy, the frame, which should be 2 feet deep at the back and 15 inches at the front, should be lifted on at once, and lined round the outside with long litter. The frame and lining together are a good protection to the bed against radiation, and the heat rises sooner. Fermentation sometimes goes on but slowly in a well, trodden bed, if it be not protected in cold weather ; but the tempera- ture, once up to the required degree, can be easily kept from falling by a little care and attention. The Cucumber. We now come to the preparation of the plants for planting and their after-culture ; and we shall begin with the Cucumber. Where the hotbed is the only accommodation, the seed of course cannot be sown till the bed is ready ; but where there is a hothouse or pit besides it is more convenient, and a great saving of time, to sow the seed about 'the time the first preparations are made for making the bed ; and when the bed is ready the plants will be strong and fit for planting. The seed may be sown in a 6-inch pot, well drained, using a finely-sifted mixture of loam and leaf mould, and being careful not to cover the seeds more than half an inch. The pot should then be plunged in a bottom-heat of 75° or 80°, with a moist atmospherical heat of from 65° to 70° at night, and 75° to 80° by day. The seeds should not be watered for a day or two after planting, when they should get a good soaking; and from this time forward the soil about the roots of the plants should never be allowed to get, dry, nor wet enough to be called sour. When the seedlings are fairly up, and have made the first rough leaf, they should be potted off in 5-inch pots — two in a pot. Before doing this the soil in the seed-pot should be allowed to get a little dry ; and, when the soil (loam and leaf mould) has been warmed, and everything else got in readiness, the seedlings should be turned carefully out of the pot. If they have not been allowed to get pot-bound, the tender rootlets will be easily disentangled, and the plants should be potted deep enough for the soil to cover the stems up to the seed leaf. They should then be watered thoroughly, plunged in their old quarters, shaded for a few days until established again, and otherwise treated as before until they are fit for planting out in the bed, which will be about three weeks or a month from the time of sowing the seed. In preparing the bed for planting we generally cover the bottom of the frame with sods, grassy side downwards ; on the top of these we lay a ridge of soil the whole length of the frame. This ridge is 9 inches deep in the centre, and slopes off to a depth of 4 inches, perhaps, at the back and front of the frame. This is after, wards levelled up, as the plants root out in both directions. Frequent soilings is an evil in hotbed culture, for such operations cannot be performed without disarranging the foliage and injury to the plants in other respects. Any ordinary light rich soil will suit the Cucumber. A mixture consisting of two-thirds of good loam to one of rough leaf mould is the best ; but where loam cannot be had common garden soil will do very well, adding to it more or less leaf mould or decayed hotbed manure, according as the garden soil is light or heavy. The bed being prepared, and presuming the bottom, heat to have subsided to about 75° or 80°, the plants should be planted, one in the centre of each light. If not done before, they should at the same time have their tops pinched off above the second or third leaf. After planting, with the assistance of linings, in the shape of stable litter, and the careful economy of sun-heat, the bottom.heat should be kept at 75°, at least, and the top-heat at 70° at night, and 80° or 85° with sun. In very bright weather a shading of the thinnest canvas should be rolled over the frame during the hottest part of the day, but shading should not be resorted to more than can be helped. Air must be admitted at all times, even in severe weather, if the sashes should only be raised the thickness of a label to let the steam escape. The bed should always be kept moist, but not sodden, and the plants should be sprinkled every afternoon in bright weather with soft, clean, tepid water. Under this treatment they will soon start into growth by sending out two strong leaders below where they were pinched. One should be trained towards the back of the frame, and the other towards the front, and when they have come within about a foot of the sides of the frame they should be pinched again, which will cause them to throw out laterals, showing fruit in all proba- bility, which, with the exception of three or four on each limb, should be picked off, and the laterals should be stopped in their turn about one joint beyond the fruit. If the foliage be large and vigorous, it will perhaps "be found advantageous to cut out some of the laterals altogether. It is much better to thin out the foliage and wood frequently than to let the plants get crowded, and then cut out a great quantity of wood at one time. After this the training of the plants consists in laying the shoots out, so as to cover the bed, stopping them regularly one or two joints beyond the fruit, and dis- posing of them generally so as to secure the greatest amount of light and air possible to every leaf. As the Cucumber swells its fruit without impregnation, the male flowers, which generally come in profusion, may be picked off, unless seed is wanted, when it is better to impregnate artificially. The plants should not be allowed to bear too heavily if they are expected to keep up the supply for any length of time. When cropped moderately, and when the fruit is cut as fast as it is ready, it is not unusual for the same plants to bear continuously from March till December on a hotbed. The insect enemies of the Cucumber are greenfly and red spider ; but neither 50 THE GARDEN. [Jan, 16, 1875. are so troublesome in the dung-frame as they are in pits heated with hot-water pipes. Greenfly may be got rid of by gentle smokings with tobacco paper, and red spider may be checked by dusting the leaves, on the under sides particularly, with flowers of sulphur ; but nothing is so sure a preventive of either as careful attention to watering, ventilation, and temperature, so as to secure a robust health in the plants, which will generally set such pests at defiance. The Melon. Except that the Melon requires a temperature at least 5° higher than the Cucumber at top and bottom, and a heavier soil in the shape of a sound friable loam, the directions given for the Cucumber apply also to it up to the time of setting the fruit. The Cucumber is cut green, but the Melon is grown for its ripe fruit, and requires a some- what different treatment in the later stages of its growth. It is a peculiarity of the Melon that when one fruit gets the lead on a plant the others, as a rule, will not swell. It is therefore important to get as many fruits as it is intended to allow on one plant set simultaneously. This is an easy matter if the directions about stopping the shoots are attended to. If a Melon plant is topped above the second or third leaf, as directed for the Cucumber, it will send out two leaders ; these will make equal progress, and should be led, one towards the back and the other towards the front of the frame. When they have grown about 2 or 3 feet they should be stopped, when they will throw out laterals simultaneously near their points ; these will in all likelihood show fruit at the first or second joint, and should be stopped in their turn at the joint beyond the fruit, which will hasten the expansion of the flowers within a day or two at the most of each other. This must be watched every day about one or two o'clock in the afternoon, and the female flowers should be impregnated with a camel's hair pencil by transferring the pollen from the male to the stigma of the female flower. More fruits should be set than are intended to swell in case of failure. In the course of a few days it will be seen which are going to swell, and all, excepting the number that it is wished to have on each plant, should be picked off. Sometimes it will occur that more than two limbs will come away from the base of the plant after pinching the top the first time ; and such trifles sometimes throw the uninitiated out of their reckoning. All but the two most prominent shoots should, however, be pinched at the first joint, and kept closely pinched; indeed, such would be better cut oat altogether were it not that shoots cut off close to the main stem or neck of the Melon, very often induce gangrene, or what is known as "damping ott at the neck," a disease only to be warded off by main- taining the proper temperature, and keeping the plants dry about the neck. In the above system of training the great point is to maintain the balance of vigour; therefore, pinch off all side shoots that appear before the two main limbs are ready lor stopping. The shoots which appear after this, and near the point, will bear the best fruit, and will show fruit simul- taneously. This is an important point, and must bo studied at the t!me, or, in all probability, less than half a crop will be the result. Atter a plentiful "set" is secured the cull uro consists in allowing the plants to grow as much as they will beyond the fruit, as far as can ae done without crowding, by attention to airing, keeping the foliage dealthy and green by liberal waterings and dewings in the afternoons during bright weather. When the fruit attains the size of an egg it should be laid on a piece of slate, and when it begins to change colour the foliage should bo pegged back and tho fruit exposed to the lull b aze of tho sun until perfectly ripe. At this stage water should also be withheld, without allowing the ulants to flag altogether, ♦£ f"0-16 ail giT0U without reducing the temperature. When the fruit is quite ripe, which will be known by the perfume it emits, it should be cut and laid in a dry and cool place, where it will keep from a week to a month, according to the variety. After all the fruit has been cut, if the plants aro pruned in a little, watered thoroughly, and treated as in tho earlier stages of culture, they will break again and bear another crop. J. S. W. aces not Growing Parsley in Beds of Manure.— In many pi: i arsley is difficult to cultivate In some situations tho seed will _. germinate, and in others the young seedlings wither and die immedi- ately they come above ground. This used to be the way in which it behaved in the kitchen garden at Urumlanrig, and for years Parsley I'll' ° 7** B0aToe- Mr- Thomson has, however, entirely overcome the difficulty. After trying it in various ways and positions, he now groivs it in beds made up wholly of rotten leaves and strong manure, thus circumstanced it grows to perfection, and I lately saw there a large plantation of it in excellent condition. Tho roots ramify freely in the manure, and the plants become so strong and vigorous as to defy all attacks of insects, which formerly proved so destructive to it. The manure too does not soon become exhausted or need renewing ; but if it did, the fine crops obtained from it would soon repay all trouble bestowed in that direction. — J. Muik. Digging in Market Gardens. — Market gardeners are par. ticularly careful that their ground is deeply dug once a year if it is not trenched ; and, as a rule, it is slightly dug over for every succes- sive crop. Ground that is merely dug over this winter has most probably been double dug or trenched the previous one ; hence, there is not so much necessity for trenching it so soon again. In digging, the ground is first of all cleared of the refuse vegetables on the surface, which are forked out of the ground, raked or gathered into heaps, and carted to the manure heap or to the piggery. If manure is to be applied it is done at once, and is spread equally over the surface, short or well-decayed manure being preferable to rank material. The plot of ground, if an open one, is then marked off into strips, say 12 paces wide. This done, about as many men are set to work in a line as the piece is paces wide, digging right abreast of them, and not going from side to side of the piece the whole length of the opening, as is commonly done in private gardens. No soil is thrown out of the opening at first to be carted to the other end of the field, to fill in the opening at the end, but it should be cast a little to one side ; close up the opening at the end of the next strip when coming back. More frequently, however, no notice whatever is taken of laying aside the soil excavated from the opening, digging merely commencing at the shallowest end. Permanent roots, if any, such as those of Seakale, Horse-radish, Parsnips, Onions, and the like, that may exist in the soil at the time of digging are carefully picked up and thrown in a heap on the top of the dug ground, from which they are afterwards gathered. In digging between a planta- tion of fruit trees or bushes, it sometimes occurs that, were all the men placed abreast across the whole space, they would be too thick to work conveniently ; hence, a few are placed in each alternate row going the one way, and they dig the other when coming back. Digging amongst fruit trees is done every year, and that deeply, too, adding large quantities of manure at the same time. When one crop is removed, and the ground is not already occupied with some other catch crop, it is slightly dug and lined off for another. In the case of borders that have been trenched in due season, and have been cleared of their crops in early summer, the ground sometimes, in place of being re-dng, is merely gone over and loosened with a three- toed hack ; but no manure must be given in this case. — F. NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE KITCHEN GARDEN. The Best Kinds of Celery.— The experimental trials at Chiswick last Beason show that out of some hundred so-called varieties of Celery not more than a dozen are distinct ; and of these trials in question and the special Celery prizes competed for at South Kensington in November, showed that the best red Celery is Major Clarke's or Leicester Red, and the best white, Sandringham or Incomparable Dwarf White. Varieties of Asparagus.— Mr. Young, of Huntingdon, who has had more than twenty years' experience in the cultivation of Asparagus for market, maintains, in a letter to the "American Garden," that, authorities to the contrary notwithstanding, there are three varieties of this esculent now grown in the famous Oyster Bay district, and that they are distinguised by their colour — brownish-green, green, and very light green. The first is the most productive, though not quite so large as tho second. Of Conovcr's Colossal Mr. Young remarks as follows : — It is as good as, and exactly like all others that I have raised — without a shade of difference. After all the noise made, it is proyoking that it did not prove just a little better than the older sorts. Potato Culture for Exhibition.— In Thk Garden of Docember 26 (p. 684) I am requested to give my Bystem of Potato culture, both for exhibition and for a general crop ; but as there has been so much written of lato in your columns about Potatoes, as well as about othor vegetables, I can find but little, if anything, fresh to say on tho subject. I always have my ground well manured and dug as soon after Octobor as possible, and plant both my early and late sorts early in February ; and as soon as they make their appearance above ground I have a little soil put to them to ward off frost: then by the first or second week in May, I have the ground dug between the rows and the plants earthed up with forks. I plant all my Potatoes 3 feet apart between the rows, and 1 foot 6 inches aBunder in the rows; I can, therefore, get all my Winter Greens and Cauliflowers in between my short-top sorts. The varieties of Potato which I consider the best are Lapstone Kidney, Peach Blows, and Patterson's Victory ; and for the best earliest— Veitch's Early Royal Ashleaf .— CnAHLES Fbisdy, Blunkney. The Uses of Borage. — This plant, the Borago officinalis of botanists, is of sufficient use to render it worthy of more cultivation among us. A writer in the " English Mechanic " enumerates some uses for this plant not commonly known. Tho large leaves and tender stalks, dipped in butter and fried, make an excellent and savoury dish. The brilliant blue flowers are very pretty as a garnish for salads along with Balsam flowers. Tho young leaves boiled are a good substitute for Spinach ; or, if dressed with hot butter and grated cheeBe, an excellent and now vegetable. The plant contains a certain amount of saltpetre, as may be proved by burning a dried leaf. For this reason it is used with great benefit for the relief of sore throats. Tho root is rich in gum, and if boiled yields a mucilaginous emulsion, excellent for irritations of the throat and chest. Very violent attacks of toothache, where the nerve has taken cold, aro often cured by holding a portion of the leaves, previously boiled in milk, and applied warm, in the mouth, against the affected tooth. Lastly, bees are extremely fond of Borage, and it appears to repay them well for their attention. Jan. 16, 18?5.] THE GARDEN. 51 VIEW IN THE BOTANIC GARDENS, REGENT'S PARK. The week in which we issue a portrait of Mr. Marnock seems a fitting one in which to present a view oE one of the many gardens he has designed. Our illustration represents a view iu the Royal Botanic Gardens, Regent's Park, seen from the conservatory when looking towards the ornamental water. The scene fairly shows the breadth and easy natural gradation which are so often noticeable iu the gardens designed by Mr. Marnock. In considering the laying out of this garden, it is, of coarse, well to bear in mind the original nature of the ground, which was flat and circular in outline. It would be easy to find a happier site for the landscape-gardener's efforts than a flat circle of ground, about 18 acres in extent, yet the result has been a more pleasing garden landscape than is often seen where the disposition of the ground is naturally favour- able. The spaces necessary for exhibitions, botanical arrange- ment, &c, limited a good deal the opportunities for purely landscape effect, yet it is surprising how broad and pleasing localities are these clusters, and so different from the more natural distribution of the common and other Daffodils, in meadows, that they may be accepted as flower-marks of a preceding civilisation. Mr. Niven's descriptions can hardly fail to increase the popularity of these lovely flowers ; there- fore, without presuming to criticise his excellent cultural remarks, I would venture to recommend the cultivation of all the Daffodils in masses in shrubberies and pleasure-grounds. A maximum supply of moisture may not always be forth- coming for them during the growing season, nor of dryness in the season of rest ; yet most of them will thrive in such situa- tions if not too often disturbed. This disturbance or transplant- ing is apt to diminish the number and lower the quality of the flowers. As to supplying the roots with food, that is easily managed by an occasional top-dressing of half -rotten manure, or half-decomposed leaves. Doubtless Mr. Niven is also right in intimating that woods are suitable positions for the Daffodils ; only the wood must not be too dense or thick, View iu the Royal Botanic Gardens, Regent's Park. are some of the glades and views. The way in which the mound, originally thrown up when excavating for the artificial water, lias been planted in particularly worthy of attention. "ALL THE DAFFODILS." Tiiere can be little doubt that Mr. Niven, in his recent exhaustive article upon this subject, is correct in attri- buting the introduction of some of the so-called British varieties to the monks. Hardly any plant can be more tenacious in holding upon any particular locality than the Daffodil. They cling around the sites of ancient build- ings, and even cottages, for centuries after no one stone lies upon another, showing, by their clustering beauty, that once they adorned a garden. In wandering through fields and woods, one often comes on clusters of Daffodils, and, on examination, the remains of buildings and of garden-grounds are almost sure to be found. In fact, so common in some else the ripening leaves of the Daffodils will be over-shadowed too much, to the weakening of the bulbs and the reduction of the bloom. The wood, or sunny openings in plantations, sheltered nooks among shrubs, and sunny corners along their sides, open spaces beside walks, or groups among the long Grass on the outskirts of the closely-shaven turf are the best positions for Daffodils. The next great point for effect is quantity. The groups should be hundreds, nay thousands, strong — " a waving sea of Daffodils," as Wordsworth has it, or rather golden waves, rolling over an azure sea of Forget-me- nots. Instead, therefore, of tho dead leaves, &c, recommended for association and protection, the ground beneath the Daffodils should be covered with early Violets, Myosotis dissitiflora, or Nemophila insignis. These, by their contrast, bring out with great distinctness the exquisite beauty of leaf and flower of the Daffodils, while their surfacing may be of use in a cultural point of view. In early spring, few sights can equal that of broad masses of Daffodils, either by themselves or associated with other flowers. Could one 52 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 16, 1875. only obtain sufficient lovely blue Squills, with which to carpet the ground under the taller Dafiodils the effect would be richer than that of any other combination. These attempts at enriching pleasure grounds, and enlivening landscapes and woods with broad masses of bulbs and other flowering plants is doubtless one of the most pleasing signs of the times, in a horticultural point of view. Grouping seems simply about to change its aspect, not to disappear, inasmuch as many of those who have been the first to condemn broad masses of colours in the flower garden have been the first to advocate glorious breadths of bulbs in our shrubberies and pleasure grounds. Fortunately, there is room enough for all styles, and for any number of Daffodils and other bulbs and flowers in the gardens and pleasure grounds throughout the country. Neither is the massing style ever likely, nor ought it, indeed, to supersede the isolated, mixed, or mere nursery style, all of which may be best in their right places for gardening effect, or for com- mercial purposes ; but, for picturesque beauty, nothing excels large groups of bulbs, especially masses of " all the Daffodils." D. T. Fish. THE FLOWER GARDEN. NOTES FEOM WARDIE LODGE. Oxalis cohnicueata eosea, when it gets into the soil, is universally consiJered a weed and pest, and I was inclined to regret finding it among the hanging-baskets in onr stove; but the accidental com- bination of it with Sedum carnenm var. was so suitable, that we always have a basket hung round with these two kinds of trailers. Disappointing with us as outdoor edging plants, grown thus they give no trouble, and are very attractive ; and in the greenhouse a very small green-leaved Oxalis and Linaria Cymbalaria, weeds also, are turned to good account in the baskets there, and made the best of. Both Oxalises we use as trailers for small flower.glasses ; and what some consider a drawback I count an object of interest — viz., the folding down of the leaves in the evening. Far too many people know plants only in their cut state ; and, therefore, I think it is of use to point out some of their peculiarities, and then we shall not be told that Oxalis does not stand in water, and that Acacia pentaphylla is already withered up. Of course, in the morning, such mistakes are rectified with surprise, when the leaves of both plants are again expanded and all right. Buds of CEnothera eximia are another noteworty object. Let them be gathered just as the calyx is beginning to open in the ovening. Some friends, returning to the drawing-room after dinner, scarcely believed these large white flowers, wide open, were in truth the buds; and next day fresh buds upon the dinner-table were watched, and the interesting fact was then believed ; the pistils, also, were objects of admiration. In a garden periodical, a few weeks ago, I noticed the advice that, for ornamental purposes, the anthers of Lilies should be cut off! Now, as the mass of those who buy cut flowers do not grow them, it is quite possible that the eyes of such individuals will come to see beauty in the imperfection of a flower, as others do in the cropped ears of a terrier. Let the Lily be cut in bud, and watch the gradual folding back of the petals, and the anthers, laid at first perpendicu- larly to the filaments, and by degrees altering their position to the horizontal, then so finely balanced, that a breath makes them quiver like the needle of a compass. Once observe this order of things, and I do not believe anyone could endure to disfigure the Lily as recom- mended. The economy of space in Nature, exhibited in the packing and folding of leaves and flowers in bud (one small item), is simply endless in variety, and a source of constant admiration. Many a practical hint for daily use may be gleaned in the course of thoughtful observation of Nature's method of doing things. In gathering Lilies in summer, I make a point of cutting them by them- selves, and carrying them erect and with care, and, if possible, set them at once in the glasses they are intended for. L. candidum, without its golden anthers, would lose a most peculiar beauty, so would L. tcstaceum, or spotted L. tigrinum. A few late buds of Ij. lancifolium have lasted above a fortnight in water this last month, and have been, from their tardy opening, very interesting to watch. Of course, I am objecting to the anthers being cut off by way of an improvement to tho look of the flower — to " painting the Lily " to death, in truth. What would tho Christmas Rose be without these stout creamy clustering anthers — Helleborus abchasicus — so striking in that respect ; or purple and white Crocuses, without their orange centres ; Hepaticas, with various coloured anthers (the earliest to flower being the single white, with pink stamens), and their cousins, the single Anemones ; the common black. anthered A. coronaria ; A. Robinsoniana, with its bewitching golden circle, to the autumn A. japonica Honorine Jobert, with its pale yellow ? How fond Miss Mitford was of her Anemones, declaring their rich colours could only be matched in art in old glass windows, or in polished precious stones. Far too seldom do we find beds of common Anemones. Stray flowers could be got all through the winter, and excellent fresh foliage judiciously abstracted, so as not to weaken the roots. Though they be of any shade of red, purple, or white, the black anthers are as much a point in a flower, as eyebrows are in a face. Summer brings us on to Poppies, herbaceous, and the annual varieties, single of course, or we should lose their beautiful thick rings of stamens — black, yellow, and white. Take care to catch the flowers when opening ; for position, shape, and colour of the stamens alter in all plants, although all are not so easily watched with the naked eye of the amateur as Lilies. The pistil of a Canterbury Bell (Campanula Medium) is beautiful. What a prize is a real Clove Carnation, with its fine white horns curled like the proboscis of a hawk-moth, or the empty seed-pods of an Epicobium ! Tet they have come to be considered a fault in florists' eyes, and many do not know they ought to have such graceful appendages. Passion-flowers, Cactuses, Fuchsias ; but I might go on for pages before getting round the seasons to the Christmas Rose again. Among Malvaceous plants are many beautiful examples — as, for instance, the Hibiscus, Hollyhock, and, most noteworthy at present, the lovely pure white Abntilon (Boule de Neige), with bright orange pistil. The next classs, Diadelphia, with its extensive range of Pea-flowers, is perhaps the least attractive for my present train of thought. All bulbs give us, more or less, good examples. In November, when seeds are perfected, and the great work of outdoor plants is over, one has to trust to memory. In spring, summer, or early autumn, one "tour round my garden " would supply one with too many specimens, and I like to have the very plants before me when I note them down. F. J. Hope. Edinburgh. Yucca filamentosa variegata in the Open Air.— The neat habit and pretty foliage of this Yucca place it amongst the hand- somest of plants, either indoors or out. Some are so pleased with it as to group it with fine foliage plants in the stove ; others grow it in the greenhouse and use it for room decoration, for which purpose it is exceedingly well adapted, while out-of-doors it is used in summer as a sub-tropical plant, but it is seldom allowed to remain outside altogether. I was, therefore, pleased to find, the other day, some scores of it growing outside as freely as possible with other hardy shrubs in Mr. Pearson's nursery, at Chilwell. Although they had endured much frost, both during this and former years, they were in the healthy condition just described. This Yucca may, therefore, be safely added to our list of plants for the winter and spring embellishment of the flower garden ; and, taking all its qualifications into consideration, it must be pronounced, I think, one of the most useful of plants employed for decorative purposes. It is effective on the dinner-table and in the flower garden, and the cul. tivation of plants of this kind cannot be too much encouraged. This, and all other Yuccas when grown for indoor purposes, delight in well-drained pots filled with equal parts of peat and silver sand, and, when planted out, in soil in which both these materials have been freely mixed. — J. Muir. NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE FLOWER GARDEN. Olives out of doors at Camberwelb— I may mention that au Olive tree, planted out in the open air in our garden some six or eight years ago, is now a handsome bush-tree. It has had no protection whatever, but is in a border under a wall looking south-east. — E. L. J., Champion Sill. The Rush-leaved Daffodil in Flower.— The pretty and deliriously fragrant Narcissus juncifolius is now coming into flower in the York Nurseries. This is one of the best of Daffodils for the ornamentation of rook-work at this season of the year, or for planting in borders among choice early flowers. It should be planted in tufts, each consisting of from six to twelve bulbs, placed in such a position as to be near the eye, in deep rich sandy loam. — R. P. The Herring-bone Thistle (Chamaeueuce diacantha).— This prettily variegated Thistle forms a striking object in summer or autumn beds in the flower garden, either planted singly in connection with carpet bedding, or in central groups. II may lie easily raised from seeds sown in spring, either in heat or in the open air ; but in order to get good plants early it is best to sow under glass ; pot them on and plant them out in May. A few plants might be grown on in pots for furnishing. The only objection to them for this purpose is their long sharp spines, which I confess are disagreeable.— E. Hobday. Liliuni rubro-vittatum.— This is called by the Japanese Bene-e-suge, or King of tho Lilies. It is a grand Lily very scarce even in Japan, where it is highly valued ; the flower resembles in size and shape that of Lilium auratum, but the yellow colour of the broad band running down the centre of the petals is replaced by a deep rich scarlet, which, contrasting with the pure white ground colour, produces a magnificent effect ; the spots are numerous as in L. auratum, and of a rich reddish tint. Of late years imported bulbs of this rare but magnificent species have been extremely scarce, and it is almost impossible to obtain them. Jan. 16, 1875.] THE GAKDEN. 53 GARDENING FOR THE WEEK. Hardy Fruit. The weather having become favourable, planting may now be pro- ceeded with in dry situations ; but, if the ground be at all wet, it had better be deferred for a time. In preparing borders for the reception of Apricots and Peaches, drainage is of the first importance, and nothing is better for this purpose than a good thickness of brick rubble, over which has been laid large turves, grass-side downwards. The soil (which should not be less than from 2 feet 6 inches to 3 feet in depth) best suited for Apricots and Peaches is a good holding loam, to which should be added a cart-load of chalk to every dozen loads of loam ; of course, if the loam is naturally chalky, this addition is unnecessary. No manure should be mixed with the soil, as it is better to give it in a liquid state, or to mulch thickly with rotten dung, and allow the rain to do the rest. The kinds of Apricots which I have proved to be the hardiest, most prolific, and best for all purposes, are Moor Park, Kaisha, Shipley's Grosse Peche, and Musch Musch. With the first everybody is acquainted ; the second is a sure bearer, and not liable to gum or canker ; the third is also a sure bearer, and is excellent either for dessert or for pre- serving, and it keeps a long time after being gathered ; the fourth is one of the largest of Apricots, and, though sometimes a thin cropper, it is worthy of a place in all collections. Musch Musch I think the most valuable of all Apricots ; it is by far the best for preserving, and should be grown largely for that purpose. Peaches of late have come to the fore, thanks to Mr. Rivers. Though the list of good kinds is now a long one, I shall only name those I have myself proved. Early Louise is remarkably early. Last year this with me was l'eady to gather six weeks before Royal George, in the same house ; it is of delicate flavour, very prolific, and hardy. Early Rivers is also a very early and good Peach ; but not nearly so prolific as the last. Large Early Mignonne is large and handsome, of exquisite quality, and should be largely grown. For mid-season kinds, Dr. Hogg, Dagmar, Crimson Galande, Magdala, and Alexandra Noblesse are the best, and all are fine in quality. The best late kinds are Princess of Wales, Lady Palmerston, Lord Palmerston, Noblesse, and Late Admirable. Princess of Wales is by far the best of all late Peaches; and, when better known, will be universally cultivated. Lord Palmerston has often been condemned as. "woolly " and as failing to ripen, but such is not the case here, where it is one of our very few good October Peaches. If any old trees of Apricots or Peaches are looking exhausted or starved now is the time to renovate them and give them, as it were, a new lease of life. This may be accomplished by removing the soil right down to the roots, without injuring them, and with small hand forks working out as much of the old material as possible ; at the same time cut away all suckers and warted or cankered roots, after which fill in with good loam, and complete the process by a heavy mulching of manure ; the benefit to the trees will be apparent in an incredibly short time. The same remarks are applicable to other fruits, and especially to Pears, which enjoy a biennial dress- ing of wood ashes, a manure which seems to suit them better than any other — at least it is so in our light soil. When the weather is favourable proceed to prune, nail, and tie Pears, Plums, and Cherries. If any are, or have been, affected with scale, fly, larvae, Moss, or Lichen, paint every particle of the tree with a com. position of soft-soap, sulphur, and tobacco-water, made to the consistency of thick paint by adding clay and cow dung. Such a proceeding may seem tedious, but it is the only way to make short work with insects or ensure healthy trees and good crops of fruit. — W. Wildsmith, Heckfield, Winclifield. Indoor Fruit Department. Vines. — In the case of early-started pot Vines the fruit will now bo set ; all superfluous bunches should, therefore, be removed, the quantity left on being regulated by the strength of the Vine. Five bunches will be sufficient for some Vines, while double that number will not be too many for others. The size of the bunches should also be taken into consideration ; six is a very general crop for an ordinary strong Black Hamburgh, and for most other varieties ; while, on the Royal Muscadine, the bunches of which are smaller than those of any other kind, ten may be left. In thinning the bunches from all sorts, the best proportionated should be allowed to remain, cutting away to the required number all loose long- stemmed scantily-set bunches. Thinning the berries should be pre. ceeded with before they swell to the extent of being crowded together ; but, at the same time, they should not be thinned so much as bunches on permanent Vines, nor until it can be distinctly seen which berries are likely to swell best. These are always the largest, and soon outgrow such as are not fully fertilised. Ham- burghs require very little thinning, and the berries of Duchess of Buccleuch, Muscadine, and the Frontignans never attain a great size ; care should, therefore, be taken not to overthin them. Muscata are seldom grown to fruit early, as they do not set freely, and are long in arriving at maturity ; but I have found Golden Champion to succeed, and those who have failed with it otherwise might try it in a pot. Continue to pinch and tie in the growing shoots of permanent ■Vines, as, when these operations are neglected, mischief in some form or other is generally the result. Pines. — As the time is approaching for the young stock of these to undergo a thorough overhaul, every plant should be carefully examined, and, if needful, thoroughly watered. They should now be kept a little moister at the roots than they have been for these two months past ; any having the soil about their roots in a dust-dry state should be watered two or three times in succession, in order to get the sail thoroughly moistened. Queens that have been started early, and are reluctant to show fruit, should be kept much drier than those producing fruit. Drought checks growth, and induces them to show fruit earlier than they would do if encouraged with moisture at the root. Keep the temperature well up to 70° at night, and allow it to rise to 85° before admitting air on fine days. All Queens started will be benefited by a slight dewing overhead occasionally by means of a very fine syringe, but do not use it so as to allow water to collect at the bottoms of the leaves. — J. Muik. Peaches. — With a return of mild moist weather and slightly increasing sunshine, the early Peach-houses may be pushed forward with advantage, more rapidly than would otherwise have been advisable. In the event of severe weather recurring, it will be wiser to economise the strength of the trees than to push them on with extra fire-heat, as a little loss of time can always be made up when the weather is favourable. Continue to maintain a sweet moist growing atmosphere, by means of frequent syringings, and damping all wall and border surfaces ; even when the trees are in full bloom they may be syringed in the mornings of fine days. Endeavour to admit a little fresh air every day, more or less, according to the direction of the wind; easterly winds demand caution. If the houses be close-glazed, a very little top-air may be allowed to remain on all night during the blooming period. Maintain a tempera- ture of from 55° to 60° at night, allowing a rise of from 15° to 20°, with sun-heat. Attention should be paid to fertilising the blossoms, when the pollen is in a fit state for that purpose, artificial fertilisa- tion being necessary, or at least advisable, in the case of the earliest houses, and the trees must be repeatedly gone over, as the flowers are not all in proper condition at the same time ; all that is necessary is one stroke of the point of a camel-hair pencil of the diameter of a goose quill across each flower. In such an operation some of the pollen is sure to touch the pistel. The pencil in question soon becomes covered with pollen, and it should be kept quite dry in the intervals during which it is not in use. Melons. — Now is a good time to get in the seeds of early Melons which should be started in a steady bottom-heat of 80°, and grown on without check. A bed of sweetened litter and leaves should be got ready in a heated pit or house, in which to plunge the seed pots. In sowing, preference should be given to small pots filled with fibrous loam, which should be used in rather a dry state ; one seed should be inserted in the centre of each pot, and covered very lightly. Place the pots on the fermenting material in the pit and fill in between them with saw-dust, which is clean and keeps down rank steam. No water should be given at this season, until the seeds have germinated, and, indeed, not then, if they do not become dust-dry. The rnoisturo from the dung and the naturally moist atmosphere of the pit are generally sufficient until the plants show the rough leaf. When watered, water at a temperature of 80° must be used. Golden Perfection and Heckfield hybrid are excellent old vigorous and pro- lific varieties for early work, to which may be added Colston Basset seedling.— W. D. C. The Flower Garden and Pleasure Grounds. Thanks to snow protection, spring bedding plants appear to have sustained but little injury from the late severe weather. Even such half-hardy succulents as the Echeveria secunda glauca have refused to succumb to the cold, finding comparative safety under their snowy covering. The departure of frost and snow, however, renders necessary the performance of sundry operations in the flower garden, which should have the attention which they require so soon as the soil has become sufficiently dry. Presuming the flower-beds and borders to have been all planted at the proper time with various spring-flowering plants and early.flowering bulbs, the surface of such beds and borders should be refreshed by carefully removing dead and decaying foliage, pressing the soil firmly round the stems of plants which the frost may have rendered loose, and examining beds of Tulips and Crocuses to prevent them, if possible, from being attacked by rats or mice, whioh are generally very prone to do 54 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 16, 1875. so. Where beds or single plants of the Christmas Kose and other Hellebores may have been protected by frames or hand-glasses, let them now be removed or tilted up, so as to admit air freely when the weather is at all mild, and at the same time be held in readiness to be returned or closed should an unfavour- able change take place. Where such plants as the Jasminum nudiflorum and the sweet-scented Chimonanthus occupy sheltered positions upon terrace walls and similar situations, let what- ever covering may have been applied to them during ihe late severe weather be removed during mild days, in order that their flowers may expand. Let lawns and Grass belts, or verges, be well Bwept, so as to remove fallen leaves, or any other matter which may have accumulated during the continuance of the late frost, Gravel walks and drives, the surface of which may have been rendered loose or rotten by the action of the frost, should now be raked level and smooth, and these, together with the lawns, should be well rolled down with a heavy iron roller. Bedding plants in pits and frames should have attention as soon as possible ; many of them will, no doubt, be found to be suffering more or less from damp, on account of being so long and so closely shut up. The soil may, also, in some instances, be found to be saturated by drip from the roof of the structures they occupy ; all this should be rectified as soon as possible, and advantage should be taken of mild days to admit air freely. In all cases where a system of sub-tropical bedding is practised, in order to have the plants used for this purpose strong and of considerable dimensions when the time arrives for planting them out, the seeds may be sown now of such species as the Ricinus or Castor-oil plants, Solanums, Wigandias, &c. ; the pans con- taining such seeds, should be placed in a moist temperature of about 65° or upwards, and when the young plants appear they should be kept pretty close to the glass to prevent them, as far as possible, from becoming etiolated or drawn. The blue Lobelia is an indispensable plant in all systems of bedding out ; and in nearly all kinds of soil the plants are found to be most healthy and enduring when they are raised annually from seed, and some growers prefer to sow the seed very early, in order to have the plants sufficiently strong and robust when planting time arrives. Its seed may, therefore, be sown now in well-drained pots or seed-pans, and placed upon a greenhouse shelf, as, when sown so early, a high temperature is not necessary ; or, this sowing may be deferred until the middle of March, when the seeds may be sown in pans and placed in a hotbed or forcing pit. As soon as the plants are large enough to handle, they should be pricked into other pans, giving them at the same time increased space, and gradually hardening them off by removing them into a cooler atmosphere, and finally into the open air ; thus, by the time they are likely to bo required for planting out, they will generally be found to be sufficiently large for that purpose. Potting-off singly will not be necessary with this, nor with many other kinds of bedding plants. It is of great importance, however, as regards this useful plant, to secure a good strain, and seed of it should not by any means be gathered promiscuously ; but, to ensure as much uniformity as possible as to habit of growth, shade of colour in the flower, &o., the supply of seed should be secured from a few selected plants — if from one plant, so much the better. The old variety, L. speciosa, is still one of the best ; although Mazarine Gem, and one or two others, are doubtless improvements upon it. White Perfection may be considered as among the best of the white-flowered sorts. In carrying out systems of carpet-bedding the greatest degree of uniformity as to habit, height, and shade of colour is necessary; and, iu order to securo this, the plants of Lobelia usod should be propa- gated from cuttings. The doublo-flowerod variety may also be readily increased by cuttings and by division. Iu some gardens this varioty during last summer was all that could bo desired, whilo iu others it appears to have been worthless. It is probable that only on light soils or during dry seasons will this plant be found useful. Seeds of most hard-wooded trees may now be sown in tho nursery, if not already in the ground. Seedlings of Ash, Elm, Oak, Sycamore, &c, may bo transplanted out of tho seedling beds or drills into nursery lines ; and all kind of forest trees may be put out into plantations during favourable weather. — P. Grieve, Culjord, "Bv/ry St. Edmunds. Roses. Indoor Hoses should be looked over every morning, in order to destroy any aphis or caterpillar that may be found on the young shoots. If mildew appears on tho young leaves smother them with snlphur. When fumigating has to be resorted to, both plants and houses should be thoroughly dry, and tho tobacco must not be used too strong or it will destroy the foliage. Syringe the plants next morning thoroughly with tepid water, and fumigate again aftor a lapse of about three days, so as to make sure of killing all aphides that escaped the first fumigation. It will often be found that one plant taken into a house with aphides on it will infect all tho rest. This may often be avoided by the uso of an aphis brush. As the weather has again become favourable Rose planting out of doors may be continued, and all planting of this kind should be pushed forward as speedily as possible. Those who had their Roses covered will find them safe, and the snow has protected the dwarf varieties. Teas should not be uncovered at present, as we ma}' yet have severe weather. — H. G. Kitchen Garden. In selecting the time for sowing the various crops with which the kitchen garden should be furnished, it should always be borne in mind that latitude in its influence upon climate must be allowed full weight, as there will usually be a difference of something like ten days between north and south, in favour of the latter, and that some gardens, from their warm sheltered position, are frequently ten days earlier than others in the same neighbourhood. In selecting sites for kitchen gardens, a well-drained position, or one capable of being easily and effectively drained, and well sheltered from cold winds, with a full southern or south-eastern exposure, may be said to have a climate of its own. Almost every one knows some such place — one so favoured by Nature and improved by Art that crops of both fruit and vegetable are always good and plentiful. One man in charge of a cold, heavy soil in an exposed situation, which at the same time, perhaps, is much infested by birds and vermin, may be compelled to make frequent small sowings of many things, and to net or shelter almost every crop which he plants, whilst another cultivator, having to do with a warm generous soil, in a well-sheltered position, may make his sowings less frequently, because he can rely upon what he puts in the soil coming up. I have briefly alluded to this matter now, for if we form a correct estimate of our position at the commencement of the season we shall be less liable to make mistakes, and the character of the soil we have to deal with should also influence us in the quantity of Beeds we order for its cropping. As soon as the surface of the soil is dry enough, go over such crops as Spinach, Onions, Lettuce, &c, with the Dutch hoe. The sooner all vacant plots of land are trenched or dug the better, in order to give the soil the benefit of as much exposure as possible before it is cropped again. Finish planting Box or other edgings ; turn the gravel paths, and have them thoroughly trampled and rolled down, and the firmer they are kept the more comfortable will they be to walk upon, and the weeds will grow in them less freely. Sow early Peas in warm sheltered positions ; Ringleader and William the First are suitable; or, for small gardens, Tom Thumb or Beck's Gem may be substituted. The dwarf Fan or Cluster Bean is a good companion for the Gem Pea ; it is very prolific, and occupies little space. A few early Potatoes may also be planted in a warm position, but unless the means are at hand for protecting them when they come up, the chances of success are remote. Early Horn Carrots may now be sown ; but, where a first crop can be brought forward under glass, the open air sowing need not take place before the end of the month, unless the position available is a very favourable one. In cold positions Carrot seeds lie a long time in the ground, and under such circumstances it will, for very early crops, be better to cut a wide trench, and fill it with warm manure ; cover it with 5 or 6 inches of light soil, and, if a frame or glass cannot be spared, a very good substitute may be made at a trifling expense by buying a few yards of brown calico, and dressing it with boiled oil, which will render it waterproof and almost transparent, and tend to preserve it. Covers of this material or of cheese cloth, treated in the same way, strained ou light wooden frames, would bo very serviceable pro- tectors in most gardens, and especially where means are limited. Sow a fow Wood's Frame and French Breakfast Radishes, and protect as suggestod fur Carrots. — E. Hobday. January in a Paris Market Garden. All the frames and cloches are now occupied, and repairs needed should have been attended to before setting them up. Prepare hot. bods for frames, cloches, and otherwise. Begin to dig over early borders — breaking the clods well — and afterwards manure them. Never dig in rainy weather. Turn over the hotbeds from which Black-seeded Lettuces have been gathered. Sowings. — In hotbeds under frames ; short Carrots, Radishes, Leeks, early Melons, early Tomatoes, and Turnips. In cold beds under frames and cloches : Carrots and Radishes ; these are also sown on hotbeds without frames, In the borders : Carrots, Radishes, and Green Peas. In hotbeds : Spinach and Curled Chicory. In cold beds under cloches : White Roman Lettuce of the second season, early Cabbage, Cauliflowers. In the opon air: Scallions. Plantings. — In the open air: common Cabbage and Cceur de Boouf Cabbage. In hotbeds under frames : Black-seeded Lettuce. Under cloches : three Cabbage and one Roman Lettuce under each cloche. Under cloches on cold beds : three Roman or four Georges or Gotte Lettuces, or three red or grey Lettuces, under each cloche. In the border s at the end of the Jan. 16, 1875.] THE GAKDEN. 55 month : Cabbage and Roman Lettuces. Treatment of the Growing Plants. — In frost the same precautions must be taken as heretofore. When a thaw comes on uncover the plants, remove the manure, give air to the frames at the side opposite to the wind, and uncover the Celery, or it will rot ; turn over the alleys, remove bad leaves from Lettuces, destroy weeds, dry the mats, look after the Mushroom.beds and put fresh lining3 of litter on them; put warm manure in the alleys if required. Crops Gathered. — Asparagus blanched and green, Cardoons, Carrots, white and Turnip-rooted Celery, Chervil, Mush, rooms, Wild Chicory, Broccoli, Rohl-Rabbi, Scallions, Cress, Spinach, Tarragon, Black.seeded Lettuce, Corn.salad, Turnips, Sorrel, Parsnips, Parsley, Leeks, Pumpkins both green and yellow, pink and red Radishes, llampion, Salsafy, and Scorzonera. TREES AND SHRUBS. THE ARBUTUS— CROOME'S VARIETY. Few of our hardy ornamental evergreen shrubs are more effective, when favourably placed and well developed, than the common Arbutus. Its outline is massive and pleasing ; its foliage of darkest green, at one season clothed with a profusion of its pretty whitish bell-shaped flowers, hanging thickly in pendulous racemes, and at another adorned with Strawberry- like and highly-coloured fruits, more ornamental even than its flowers. Every one knows what the Arbutus is at Kil- larney, and what apeculiar charm it lends to that weird region. We have seen, however, quite as fine single specimens in various parts of the country as any we hap- pened to notice in that quarter. Yet, notwith- standing our familiarity with its beauty, and our appreciation of it, we fancy it is not latterly planted so much as it deserves to be. This may be the result of the pre- vailing fashion of running after Conifers and other novelties, or it may be because in many places, where planted in cold heavy soils and exposed situations, it is apt par- tially to succumb to frost, when the latter is ex- ceptionally severe. On A. Andrachne for one of its parents, and perhaps the scarlet variety of A. Unedo for the other. The foliage is somewhat larger and finer than that of the latter, the habit and outline symmetrical, the flowers, which load the air with a delicious honey-like odour, are lovely, and produced in the most bountiful profusion. The flowers individually, as well as the racemes, are considerably larger than in the common form, and each flower is on the exposed side exquisitely tinted with a blush of delicate rose, such as art would fail to copy, and such as the most stolid could not fail to admire. A small specimen, growing in one of the Grass-plots at Glasnevin, was, when in flower daring the months of October and November, perhaps the most attractive outdoor feature of that establish- ment. A TWIN-BEARING GOOSEBERRY. The term twin. bearing, applied to the Gooseberry represented in the accompanying illustration, is scarcely sufficiently precise, and conveys only an imperfect idea of what it is intended to describe. It indicates, however, that the variety to which the term is applied, bears fruit in a way different from that of its type in which, in general, the berries are single. Whether this is only an exceptional circumstance or not, and whether it can be reproduced, time alone can show, but it is im. portant that the matter should be made known. We must, however, remark that the instance is not a soli, tary one ; for, in the bed in which it was found, there were several other plants possessing the same pecu- liarity. Can this be a step towards a new variety ? The plant is of average vigour but is less thorny than is usual with a dwarf Goose- berry ; this, however, need cause no astonishment, as some Gooseberries are almost thornless. So far as the berries are concerned, there is nothing peculiar about them. They are of ordinary size, pale coloured, and agreeable in flavour which resembles that of the best cultivated varieties. — "Re. vue Horticole." Twin-bearing Gooseberry. such occasions many of our hardiest shrubs are equally liable to be hit. If planted where the soil is dry, and the sub-soil light and porous, or where the underlying rock is just below and ready to crop out at the surface, there the Arbutus shows its shape and beauty, ceases to be a shrub, and assumes the proportions of a good-sized, round-headed evergreen tree, rarely, if ever, suffering from the effects of frost. Planted in such situations it is more floriferous and profusely berry-bearing, and also fruits much sooner in a young state than when planted in soils and situations of an opposite character. Besides the normal form, the planter has several distinct varieties deserv- ing of his attention, all of which are worthy of a place wherever really beautiful evergreens are desirable or calculated to be effective. There is, for instance, a double-flowered variety, the red and scarlet-flowered varieties, the variety catalogued "hybrida," a profuse bloomer, and having larger foliage than the common form, and notably Croome's Arbutus, A. Croomei, to draw attention to which is the object immediately in view in penning this notice in the " Irish Farmers' Gazette ; " for, though not at all new, having been raised now some years, it is, we apprehend, by no means known or grown as widely as it deserves to be. This very beautiful and desirable variety claims, if we mistake not, MARKS ON TREES. An old surveyor sends Dr. Asa Gray some interesting observations on marks on trees. For several years before tho war I was the surveyor for Davidson County, Tenn., in which the City of Nashvillo is situated. A large part of my duty was running old lines estab- lished by former surveyors, numbers of which had been cut fifty to sixty years before. These lines were indicated by hatchet marks upon the trees, through, or near which, the lines ran. Three chops with the hatchet about 4 inches apart, breast high, was, and is, tho recognised mark for surveyor's lines. So uniform were the marks given to the trees by the old surveyors that by practice in notin°- the position, depth, angle, width, and distance apart of the marks I could generally tell what surveyor had run the line. Very old lines through bottom lands had often been surveyed on horseback, and in such cases, the marks would be found 7 or 8 feet from tho ground. It may be interesting to ,know that the most permanent marks are those in which the hatohet does not go through the bark. In such cases the marks were as plain and sharp after fifty years as when just made. If the sapwood was touched ever so little the edges of the cut would widen and fresh bark would be made, and this being smoother than the old bark and surrounded by a sort of lip, the whole would, as the tree grew old, assimilate in appearance to the rest of the tree, so that only a practised eye could detect the mark at all. If the chops were very deep the bark between them would be thrown off by the tree, and all replaced by new bark, and present a blur, which, in time, would be very hard to recognise, and such a tree could only be proved to a jury (as it was often necessary to do), by cutting into the treo and exposing tho chops or 56 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 16, 1875. marks in the solid wood under the sap, and often under many layers of the tree wood. Law suits where lines were questioned have been decided by this method. I may here state that I have often known these layers to tally exactly with the number of years since the survey was made, and thus carry the most convincing proof that the tree was marked at that time. The point, however, in which the present interest lies is that among the many thousand marked trees I have examined I never knew one in which the distance of the marks from the ground, or each other had varied from the general practice of surveyors. Many of them had been so marked in the presence of old settlers who accompanied me in the re.establishment of the lines, and I never knew of any change being spoken of in the appearance, except by being cut too deeply. Many of the marks were the subject of especial study to me ; but I never met with or heard of marks that had grown up a tree or'that had widened apart out of the surveyor's customary limit. In some instances the original level of the soil had been changed by being washed away, but this was only on hill-sides, and easily accounted for, and proved by other trees and circumstances. The habit of bears of standing up against Beech trees and scratching them with their claws somewhat as cats do against table-legs is a case in point also. No bears have been found in Davidson County for the last fifty years, and I have had pointed out to me trees that had been scratched all round in this manner, and although the same trees would be marked by the climbing of the bear, yet the peculiar marks made by this playful scratching were never any more than the usual distance from the ground. I know a place near Nashville where about forty years ago, a Cedar.wood seat was put between two close growing trees by notching it into each one. The trees have grown quite large, and entirely round the ends of the board, but it is exactly the same height as when first placed. I also know where I cut my initials into the bark of a young Haokberry tree with those of a young lady ; this was twenty-three years ago, and the marks are there at the same height. These last, however, are special instances, and only prove the habits of Beech, Elm, and Hackberry trees, while those of the surveyor's marks comprise all kinds of trees indigenous to this country, and extend through such periods of time as give very complete observation. DR. BOLANDER ON MENZIES' SPRUCE. (ABIES MENZIESII.) In your last year's volume (see p. 481) you say, " surely Mr. Mon- eredien in his ' Heatherside Manual,' puts this tree very much too low when he says that in California it grows to the height of 70 or 80 feet, with corresponding girth." These figures by no means repre- sent its proper height. This Fir has a very wide range on the western side of the American Continent ; it extends from Mendocino City about 100 miles north of San Francisco, its most southern limit far into Alaska. (Abies Sitchensis Bong. ; see De Candolle s Prod vol. xvi., p. 418). In Oregon, Washington territory, and Van- couver's Island, where the climate is most congenial to it, this tree attains its greatest development. It evidently likes a moist foggy region and the proximity of the coast, for it mainly occurs in its most southern limits upon slopes facing the ocean. Farther north, where the influence of the ocean, or, rather, where similar atmo- spheric influences extend farther inland, it forms a broader belt. It also occurs on high peaks of the Rocky Mountains, especially north, ward wherever the relative quantity of atmospheric humidity corre- sponds to that of the coast. At Mendocino City, where only isolated specimens occur, it forms a tree of considerable size, being from 2 to 3 feet in diameter, and from 150 to 200 feet in height. Farther north in Humboldt County, we find this tree assuming almost gigantic proportions. In the alluvial soil of the bottom of Eel River (4 to 5 miles from its mouth), is found a grove consisting exclusively of this species ; every tree has here a diameter of from 6 to 8 feet, and a height of from 200 to 250 feet. Their trunks taper very gradually, and are free from branches for a height of about 125 feet. The bark is thin, rather smooth, and of a very dark colour, hence the name Black Spruce ; the branches are slender, densely set, and more spreading in every direction than those of any of our western Coniferous trees. Its leaves are rigid, very much crowded, glaucous underneath, and very sharply pointed ; its timber is tough and valuable, especially for ship building. Henry N. Bolander. San Francisco. Conifers on Chalk Land— A correspondent of the " Chronicle " 'speaks with "ml™ nco anfl from experience, as to the suitability of the undermen. tioned Conifers for chalky land :-" When the chalk is in greatcs quantity nlant Pinus anstriaca and its cogeners P. pyrcnaica, Lancio, and romana. Add Cunrcssus Lawsoniana and Nutkaensis, .Tumperus virgmiana and chinenXi-1 Thuja Lobbii, and common Yew. All these will thrive and grow with "tine dark colour on fresh trenched and pulverised chalk. Next m order (with reference to the chalk apparent in earth) plant Cedar of Lebanon and C. atlantica, WelUngtonia gigantea, Picea cephalomca and P. Pinsapo. SPICES. By J. R. JACKSON, Curator of the Museums at Kew. The historical surroundings of the word which stands at the head of this article are of the most interesting description, inasmuch as spices are mentioned in the earliest of the sacred writings, and are, moreover, frequently referred to as choice and valuable products, in various works of ancient and modern times. That the value set upon spices in the East, at the most remote period of the world's history, was very great, is shown in the frequent mention of them in company with gold and precious stones. Thus, in the Queen of Sheba's presents to King Solomon, we read that " She gave the king an hundred and twenty talents of gold, and of spices very great store, and precious stones." And amongst the free gifts of the tabernacle, spices are frequently included for use with the anointing oil and the sweet incense. What the spices here referred to consisted of it is not easy to define. Frankincense, myrrh, and other fragrant products were frequently included under the term of spices. It has been supposed that those which composed the Queen of Sheba's presents were obtained from Ceylon or other Eastern islands, and were not the produce of, or even known in, Jerusalem. That this was so is highly probable, if the spices were identical with those of late writers ; for at the present time nearly all these aromatic products are obtained from our tropical possessions, either in the far East or in the West Indies. With the Romans, spices were much used, and were, as, indeed, they always have been, considered as articles more of luxury than of real necessity. Pliny tells us that amongst the Sabeans, " No other kinds of wood but those which sent forth sweet odour were used as fuel, and they cooked their food with the branches of trees yielding frankincense and myrrh. Like perfumes, spices were, in early history, prized more for their agreeable effect upon the organs of smell than for their culinary application. At the present time, however, the word spice comprehends a great variety of aromatic and useful substances, the total annual value of which, in a commercial point of view, is almost fabulous. The estimated value of Cinnamon alone imported into this country during the year 1871, amounted to £143,520, the quantity being 1,574,946 lbs. ; while. of Ginger 32,497 cwts., valued at £70,746, were imported in the same period. When we take into consideration that under the head of spices are included, besides Cinnamon and Ginger, Nutmegs, Mace, Cloves, Pimento, Carraway and Coriander seeds, Cassia bark, and Cassia buds ; also Canella bark and Vanilla pods, besides Pepper, Cayenne, and others, whioh, though commercially included under spice3, may more properly be called condiments, it will be seen how important the spice trade is. Spices and condiments are so closely united that it is difficult to distinguish between them ; the former, however, are mostly used in the flavouring of articles of food of a sweet nature, while the latter are used with savoury foods, their uses being almost solely those of flavouring agents, and their action upon the system stimu. lant like alcohol. There is always a steady demand for one and all of the above-named products, but the demand is much increased at this season of the year, when there is usually a brisk trade, not only in the individual articles, but collectively, as " mixed spice," into the composition of which many of the above enter. The aromatic, or fragrant, qualities of these substances are due to the presence of a volatile oil, and so powerful is this in some instances that in the countries where the plants grow the air is filled for some distance with the characteristic odour. Mrs. Somerville, in her " Physical Geography," mentions the fact of the fragrauce of some balsam-yielding plants, natives of the shores of South America, being distinctly perceived at a distance of three miles — " a species of Tetracera also sends its perfnme as far from the island of Cuba — and the aroma of the Spice Islands is wafted out to sea." On the other hand, the fragrance of some plants is not given off, except upon a fracture being made in the branches, bark, or leaves, which is the case with the Cinnamon trees ; no smell being perceptible except during the harvesting season. Bishop Heber says — " After hearing so much about the spicy gales from Ceylon, I was much disappointed at not being able to discover any Bcent, at least from the plants, in passing through the Cinnamon gardens ... On pulling off a leaf or a twig, one perceives the spicy odour very strongly ; but I was surprised to hear that the flower has little or none." The plants which furnish the spices of commerce belong to widely distinct natural families, and their cultivation gives employment, not only to large numbers of natives under tropical suns of far distant regions, but also to many Europeans who are employed in the superintendence or management of tho several plantations. Cinnamon. It would be impossible here to adequately consider the origin and supply of all the substances classified in trade as spices. I shall there- fore give a brief account of the most iuiportaut of the true spices as Jan. 16, 1875.] THE GARDEN. 57 distinguished from condiments. Commencing, with Cinnamon, this takes us at once to our Eastern possessions, for in the fertile island of Ceylon is to be found the chief seat of the Cinnamon culture. The plant, in fact, is named after the island in which it is native, anil is known to botanists as Cinnamomum zeylanicum. The tree, which is very variable in form aud size, is pretty generally distri- buted in the Cingalese forests, up to an elevation of from 3,000 to 6,000 or 7,000 feet. The best kind of Cinnamon is obtained from a particular variety or cultivated form, usually with large irregular leaves ; the barks, however, of all the forms being so much alike, and the characteristic odour always more or less present, that it iB difficult, if not impossible, always to distinguish the trees from the appearances of the foliage or bark. An old resident in Ceylon says, " I have observed the Cinnamon-peelers, when collecting bark from uncultivated trees, taste a small portion before commencing their operations, and pass over some trees as unfit for their purpose." Cinnamon, as we see it in commerce, is the inner bark, taken chiefly from the younger branches or twigs. It is stripped off by making longitudinal and transverse incisions with a knife of a some- what peculiar shape. After being stripped some hours, the outer and inner barks are easily separated, and upon drying the latter, it curls up into the tubular forms we are accustomed to see, and which are technically termed " quills." The smaller pieces are pushed into the larger, which makes the Cinnamon stick more solid, and it moreover economises space in packing. The quality of the Cinnamon is affected very much by the character of the soil in which the plants are grown, some shooting np much more rapidly, and being ready for harvesting in a much shorter space of time than others. The trees are usually allowed to attain the age of about nine years before being cut, after which they are cut annually. They are very carefully guarded by the proprietors, fines being strictly enforced for any damage done to them. It is said that the old Dutch law enforced amputation of the hand for wilful injury to the Cinnamon trees. Some time before the island came into the possession of the British, the Dutch depended entirely for their supplies of this spice on the indigenous trees growing in the territories of the king of Kaudy. The demand, however, increasing, they took to the careful cultivation of the tree ; but, when the island came into our hands, the Dutch, for the purpose of keeping down the supply, and so main- taining a monopoly, destroyed all the plants above a certain number. So determined were they to retain this monopoly, that large quanti- ties of the prepared Cinnamon were often thrown into the sea or burnt. On the 10th of June, 1760, a wholesale destruction of Cinnamon took place near the Admiralty at Amsterdam. The blazing pile was " valued at eight millions of livres, and an equal quantity was burnt on the ensuing day. The air was perfumed with this incense ; the essential oils, freed from their confinement, distilled over, mixing in one spicy stream, which flowed at the feet of the spectators ; but no person was suffered to collect any of this, nor, on pain of heavy punishment, to rescue the smallest quantity of the spice from the wasting element." Happily we do not often now hear of such wilful destruction of Nature's gifts. Though the principal part of the Cinnamon used in England at the present time is imported from Ceylon, the plant is also cultivated in many parts of India, the East Indian Islands, South America, the West Indies, and on the east coast of Africa. The Cassia barks and the Cassia buds of commerce — the former being sometimes known as Cassia lignea — are afforded by species of Cinnamomum. Though both are largely used, they are not so important as many other spices ; therefore, we will proceed to the consideration of the Nutmeg, a valuable spice, which belongs to a closely. allied order. It is a beautiful tree, somewhat resembling our Pear ; a native of the Moluccas, but is also scattered in other islands of the East Indian Archipelago. Like the Cinnamon, it was most jealously cultivated by the Dutch, who endeavoured to confine the limits of its growth to the island of Banda ; the plants, however, became more widely distributed, it is said by the wood-pigeons carrying the seeds, and dropping them in places where they germinated. At the present time the tree is cultivated in Java, Sumatra, India, Madagascar, the Mauritius, and the West Indian Islands. The Nutmeg tree bears a fleshy fruit, similar in shape and size to a Pear. Unlike the Pear, however, it denisces, or divides spontaneously into two halves, when ripe, exposing to view the seed, which is again covered by a hard but thin shell, which is again covered by a fleshy network of a brilliant red colour, called an arillus ; this substance changes to yellow on drying, and constitutes the Mace of commerce. After removing the Mace, and breaking the hard shell, the Nutmeg itself is found. The mottled appearance of the albumen, or substance of the Nutmeg, is caused by a thin membraneous covering, adhering closely to its surface, and penetrating it in various directions. This peculiar envelope is known to botanists as ruminated albumen. The uses of Nutmegs and Mace are principally for culinary pur- poses, and are valued for their agreeable flavour. Many qualities of Nutmeg are known in commerce, varying not only in size and form but also in flavour. The best are those from Penang, which are about an inch long, and have a pale brown furrowed exterior ; inter. nally they are of a lightish grey, with bright red markings. Nut- megs are very liable to be attacked by insects ; they are, in conse- quence, frequently washed with lime to protect them. In the Island of Banda, where the principal cultivation of the Nutmeg is carried on, the fruits are gathered at three distinct seasons — namely, July, November, and March or April. After the removal and drying of the Mace, the Nutmegs themselves are dried, the outer shell being afterwards removed. The drying is effected mostly by the aid of the sun. Cloves. Another native of the Moluccas is the Clove (Caryophyllus aro. maticus). It is an evergreen tree, belonging to the Myrtaceas or Myrtle family ; it grows from 15 to 30 feet high, and bears largo elliptic leaves and purplish. coloured flowers with numerous stamens. The cultivation of Cloves in the Moluccas dates from a very early period. Dr. Lankester, writing on this subject, says: — "Although Europeans have for more than 2,000 years known the use of this spice, yet little more than 300 years back they were ignorant whence it was obtained. The Persians, Arabians, and Egyptians formerly brought Cloves and Nutmegs to the ports in the Mediter- ranean, and hither the Venetians and Genoese resorted to buy the spices of India, until the Portuguese, in 1511, discovered the country of their production. This nation did not, however, long enjoy the fruits of his discovery ; the Dutch soon drove them from the Moluccas, and for a long time retained a very strict monopoly over the productions of these islands. It is said that they destroyed the Clove trees growing in the other islands, and confined their cul. ture wholly to Amboyna. They allotted to the inhabitants 4,000 parcels of land, on each of which it was expected that 125 trees should be cultivated ; and in 1720 a law was passed compelling the natives to make up this number. There were, in consequence, 500,000 Clove trees planted in this island ; each of these trees, on an average, produced annually more than two pounds of Cloves, so that the aggre- gate produce weighed more than a million pounds." The yield of Cloves per tree varies, however, considerably ; for it is stated that the first tree planted by the French in Mauritius occasionally produced in one year as many as 125 lbs. Prom this it is computed that, as 5,000 Cloves are required to weigh one pound, there must have been upwards of 625,000 flowers on this individual tree. The Cloves of commerce are the unopened flower-buds, and are collected by gathei'ing them with the fingers or beating the tree with sticks, a sheet being spread beneath the tree to receive them. After being dried in the sun, they are ready for packing and exportation. At the present time they are largely cultivated in both the East and West Indies, Eastern Africa, &c, from whence we receive large supplies. Bencoolen Cloves are much esteemed in commerce. As a test of good quality, Cloves should be dark, heavy, and powerfully fragrant from the presence of the volatile oil. To make them heavy, and to give them a dark appearance, they are sometimes soaked in water ; but the presence of water as distinguished from oil, can be detected by pressure of the finger-nail. Cloves are used both in cookery and in medicine; for both purposes they are much valued, as well for their stimulating properties as for their agreeable flavour. Oil of Cloves is a well-known remedy for toothache. In Amboyna the natives use them for various ornamental purposes. By stringing them on thin wire, they make boxes, models of canoes, and similar articles, some very good examples of which are exhibited in the Kew Museum. Allspice. The Pimento or Allspice belongs to the same natural order as the Clove. It is a tree from 30 to 40 feet high, and is known to botanists as Pimenta officinalis. It is a native of the West Indies, where it is largely cultivated. In Jamaica the trees are planted in rows, with a broad passage between them ; these rows are called " Pimento walks." The flowers, which are white, appear in great profusion in July and August, and, being mixed with the dark green foliage, give the tree a very beautiful appearance. It begins to bear fruit when about three years old, and attains its full bearing in about seven years. A plantation of these trees is not only a very fine sight, but the fragrance diffused by them is, though powerful, most agreeable. Allspice berries are so well known as to need no description. They are collected while yet in a green state, as tho essential oil is of a better flavour and more abundant than when ripe. In drying they turn brown, as we see them in commerce. The produce of the trees is very variable, but as much as 100 lbs. of dried Allspice has been known to be yielded by one tree. The annual imports of this spice 58 THE GAUDEN. [Jan. 16, 1875. amount to between 20,000 and 22,000 cwts. It is brought in bags, and is very extensively used, chiefly for culinary purposes. The name Allspice has been given to it on account of its combining the flavour and properties of Cinnamon, Clove, Nutmeg, and other spices. The sticks of the Pimento are imported in large quantities for umbrella sticks. Ginger. One of the most useful of all the spice sories is Ginger. The plant producing it is known as Zingiber officinale, and belongs to the Monocotyledonous order Zingiberaca). It is an herbaceous plant, sending up annual stems, surrounded by two series of sheathing leaves. The colour of the flowers is pinkish, and they are encircled in bracts, and borne on cone-shaped spikes springing directly from the root-stock. The plant is largely cultivated in the East and West Indies, China, and West Africa. The Ginger of commerce is the rhizome or root-like underground stems, which are dug up when the plants are about a year old, cleaned, and dried in the sun. It is sometimes scraped, but large quantities are imported in an unscraped state, being simply cleansed from dirt. This is called in commerce coated Ginger, while the scraped is known as uneoated, or whito Ginger. The former has a dingy yellow appearance, and the latter is frequently bleached with chloride of lime or the fumes of sulphur ; this, however, does not by any means improve its quality, but simply gives it a cleaner appearance. Like other articles, Ginger varies very much in quality, some kinds being more liable than others to the attacks of worms. The produce of the West Indies is preferred to that of the East, and the softer kinds are usually chosen in preference to the hard ; the pieces also vary much in size according to quality, the small coarse Ginger being mostly used for grinding, with which, it is said, Sago meal, Wheat flour, ground Rice, Mustard husks, Cayonno Pepper, and other things, are incorporated as adul. terants. Ginger is imported into this country to the extent of from 30,000 to 35,000 cwts. annually. Its uses are multitudinous — it enters largely into the preparation of cordials and various drinks, also into confectionery, and the various branches of the culinary art. In India a Ginger tea is made, and largely sold in the military cantonments. The most delicious form, however, in which Ginger can be prepared is that of a conserve, the young and green rhizomes being preserved iu syrup. In this state it is well known as preserved Ginger, and is imported from the West Indies and China, the pro- duce of tho former being most esteemed. Ginger is also valued in medicine as an aromatic stimulant for tho relief of flatulency or other ill effects arising from weak digestion, also for external application in the form of poultice for the relief of headache. It is said that in tho Mauritius Ginger poultices are applied to tho skin to assist in the romoval of thorns : the irritation caused by tho Ginger brings the thorn near the surface, when it can be easily removed. The plants are very easy of cultivation. Provided the climate is suitable, all that is needed in tho formation of a Ginger plantation is to make holes in tho ground and place in them small portions of the living rhizorae. Cardamoms. Cardamoms are tho fruits of two or more species of Elettaria, perennial herbs belonging to the same family as tho Ginger, and growing in tho East Indies, Ceylon, Java. Siain, Cochin China, &c. Though commercially classed among spices, the chief use of Cardamom with us is in medicine. In India, however, it is largely used for flavouring curries and soups. Vanilla is an article of which but small quantities only aro imported, 5 or 6 cwts. being about tho annual average. It is used in confectionery to flavour chocolates, creams, icoB, liqueurs, &c. The plants are climbers, and belong to the Orchidacoo or Orchid family ; and it remarkablo that, though tho plants of this order fetch fabulous sums, simply on account of tho beauty of their flowors, the Vanilla is the only useful member of tho wholo group. Vanilla planifolia furnishes Mexican Vanilla, but other allied species growing in Southern and Central America also produce fragrant fruits ; tho Mexican, however, is tho most esteemed. There aro several plants producing aromatic fruits grown in this country which aro used as flavouring agents, such, for instance, as the Carraway, Coriander, and Anise; these, though commercially called seeds, aro properly fruits. Resides our own produce of Carraway, as many as 500 tons aro annually imported from Holland. Coriander is grown to somo oxtent in Suffolk and Essex, besides which wo import from Germany about 50 tons per annum, and of Aniso, which is grown in Southern Europe, about 70 tons. Theso remarks will give some idea of tho immense resources, value, and traffic in spices. — " Evening Hours.'' News for Intending Emigrants. — Tho people in parts of Nebraska and Kansas aro in terriblo distress, according to tho " Agriculturist." Tho poorer of them, who aro tho newest settlors in the western parts of these States, have lost all their crops by grass, hoppers, and are entirely without food or clothing, except as they receive these necessaries from abroad. Ten thousand persons in Nebraska and twenty thousand in Kansas must be provided for until spring, or they will die of cold and hunger. WHITFORDS IMPROVED POTATO PLANTER. The object of the implement represented in the annexed engraving is first to form two parallel furrowB into which tho seed Potatoes aro dropped. Then, by roversing the apparatus and making suitable changes of the handles, &c, it is converted into a coverer, which, travelling over each furrow, moulds thereon a uniform ridge of earth. Our illustration represents, says the " Scientific American," the device as adapted for cutting the furrows, this operation being effected by means of the furrow guides (A), which are suitably shod on their forward ends. The handles are supported by means of a crotched bar (B), which is hinged to one transverse piece of the frame and the upper end of which enters a socket on the handle brace, and is secured therein by a screw. The front portion of the handles is attached to tho other transverse bar in any desirable way. Also secured to the frame, on the opposite side from the furrow guides are two steel plates (C). After tho furrows are made and the Beed dropped, the handles are removed and the thills disengaged. The implement is then turned over, bringing the plates (C) down, and the handles and thills re-adjusted. The machine being drawn by a horse so as to bring each furrow midway between the ridging plates, the soil is gathered between the latter at their front ends, and delivered at their contracted near extremities, Whitford's Potato rianter. thus forming a neat ridge. The inventor informs us that the device is excellently adapted for hilling and hoeing, as it works over tho row instead of iu the space between tho plants. It is also rccommonded for ridging for root crops and for depositing manuro previously spread broadcast into the furrows. Tho guides and plates, being secured to the frame by sot screws, may bo adjusted so as to alter the width of ridgo and space between the furrows. When it is desired to change the direction of tho implement, as at the end of a furrow, it is Bimply necessary to lift tho handles slightly, when the tongue (D) will enter a recess formed in the front end of tho handles, and, bearing against it, will enable the horse to assist in lifting the machine clear of tho ground, so that it oan be turned without difficulty. LARGE BOILERS AND FURNACES BETTER THAN SMALL ONES. The lato severe weathor tested these horticultural appliances to the uttermost, and in consequence a largo number of queries havo been forwarded to me regarding tho behaviour of limekiln heating and most of tho popular boilers, all of whioh I am supposed to use or to be conversant with. Without answering any of those enquiries, it may bo well to enforce the lesson taught by tho late sovero weather before its effects have passed away — this is to have large furnaces and ample boiler force. The matter of furnaces is a vital ono as regards efficiency and economy of heating, and yet, Btrango to say, while boilers havo received the carofnl attention of innumerable scientific engineers and practical men, tho furnaces on which thoir efficiency rests have been turned over too often to the country bricklayers. Tho result is that furnaces are often disproportionately small and wretchedly constructed. This ovil Jan. 16, 1875.] THE GARDEN. 59 arises, to a great extent, from the supposed necessity that exists for having the furnace under its work ; that, and tho proximity of the water-line to the surface in many gardens, hampers us for furnace room. In such cases it may be difficult to find a remedy, though one of our greatest authorities assured me that, at tho great show at Manchester, there was but little loss of heat with the boiler on the level, or even above its work. It will also be remembered that Mr. Cowan exhibited his lime-kiln heating apparatus in the Botanic Gardens at Manchester, with the top of his boiler several feet above the pipes heated. His hot water started with a sudden vertical dip, and did not seem to have lost much power in consequence. Has this matter of the position of the boiler to its work been much tested, and with what results ? Could it be shown or proved rather that it is not absolutely necessary to excavate, furnaces might readily be increased in area and in depth, to the great comfort of distracted Btokers and the more perfect and economical heating of thousands of glass houses. The abolition of stoke-holes would also save a serious expense in digging, draining, setting of boilers, &c. j and, of course, on the level ground, there would be a better draught and fewer difficulties in tho way of a fierce fire when needful. Doubtless, as a rule, there is a deficiency of furnace space when we come to contend with severe weather such as we have recently had. Again, there is great loss of heat in the majority of furnaces. They are not only too small, but faulty in construction and in heating power. Each furnaoe should beenoased in a water jacket all round. Possibly fully half of the furnaoe area only heats bricks or iron bars. In Buch, half or at least a large proportion of the heat is lost. An efficient furnace performs at least two functions ; it fosters and promotes combustion, and utilises its products to the heating of the boiler. All the heat spent on furnace bars, on solid brick-work, or discharged up the chimney is lost. Who could visit his stoke-holes, with the thermometer rushing down to zero, without feeling that, notwithstanding all our boasted progress, fully half of the fuel consumed did not affect the temperature of the glass-houses half a degree ; a oircumstance arising more from the fault of the furnaces than of the boilers. Those boilers that form their own furnaces are assuredly the best ; but many of such are half-crippled in tho setting and working. The first want is sufficient area in furnaces ; the second is such a ratio of com- bustion and direction of its products as shall ensure the absorption of a maximum amount of heat by tho boiler; and a maximum intensity of heat where the water leaves it. So many circumlocutory modes have been adopted for extracting as much heat as possible from our fuel, that by the time the warmth has reached the upper outlet or flow.pipe it is well nigh exhausted, and, consequently, the water may be hindered rather than accelerated as regards circulation. The flow.pipe could surely be taken from the hottest part of the boiler or furnace, wherever that may be. Then, the fire would heat the departing water and accelerate its circula- tion. Such a furnace would have power concentrated on the spot whore it was most needed, viz., on that of the hot current of water streaming forth on its long journey from the boiler and back again. As to boilers, their shape is of less moment than their size ; nothing pays so well as a boiler, although with an excess of power. We may have to purchase iron once or twioe, coals or othor fuel every year, and of all the extravagant investments within the range of horticulture, that of an under-sized boiler is the most wasteful. In fact, it nover pays to force any machine to its utmost working power. At a high degree of tension the wear and tear become excessive, and it either wears out prematurely or breaks down. All this is true also of boilers ; but another, and almost equally great evil, is more specially incident to them. Under-sized boilers are exceedingly exponsive. Relatively, or even absolutely, they burn much more fuel than larger ones ; the fire muBt ever be at its fiercest to get sufficient heat, and it is this rapid combustion that dissolves the coal heap. Boilers with a reserve of power can do their work easily at a lower temperature, and it is less the size of the fire than the rate of combustion that consumes the coal. D. T. Fish. Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society.— This society is desirous of extending its operations for the encouragement of horti- culture in Scotland, and with this view the council has arranged to hold a great International Fruit and Flower Show in September next, and is endeavouring to obtain increased support from the public. It is, howover, principally from its annual subscribers that the means are procured to enable the society to offer sufficiently liberal prizes, and the council believes that gardeners might further the object in view by bringing tho subject under the notice of their employers, or others likely to join the society. Tho subscription is 21s., in return for which members receive three tickets for each flower show, admitting to a private view one hour before the public generally. NOTES OF THE WEEK. Xipiiion histrio (Bot. Mag. t. G033)is now infiower at Bitton. It commenced to show its buds immediately tho thaw began, and its leaves were perfect and uninjured all through tho hard frost, so that it is not only one of tho hardiest of tho Iridete, but tho earliest (being earlier than I. reticulata and I. stylosa). Its early time of flowering and its hardiness will give it a first rank amongst hardy spring flowers ; for in beauty, also, there are few to equal it. The curvilinear glass roof, on the south side of Covont Garden Market, is now nearly completed. A groat improvement is thus effected, compared with the previously exposed state of that portion of the market. Several arborescent species of Aloo, in the succulout- houso at Kow, are producing tall spikes of bright red or orange- scarlet flowers, similar to those borno by Tritoma Uvaria, and are very effective at this season of tho year. Professor Bentlky will deliver, at the London Institution, Finsbury Circus, a series of lectures on the classificatioa of plants, on Mondays, April 5, 12, 19, and 26, at 5 p.m. In Paris, the right to gather the fallen leaves on the public streets and avenues has been sold to the highest bidder for a con. siderable sum. Amongst other choice Orchids now in flower in Mr. Bockett's collection, at Stamford Hill, are six fine plants of Angracum sesquipedale, bearing collectively twenty spikes, and from seventy to eighty beautiful ivory-white blooms. In the sanio collection there is also a very fine specimen of the lovoly Masdovallia ignea, bearing nineteen finely-formed scarlet blossoms. Mr. Anderson, of tho Meadowbank Nurseries, Glasgow, writes to us to Bay that tho ice in tho Clyde during the lato frost was of much greater thickness than was anticipated, some of tho blocks nearest the water-edge measuring 12 inches thick. He adds that there has been no such samples in that quartor for fourteen years. The land secured for the new aquarium and wintor garden in Westminster, comprises about 2i acres, nearly all of whioh will be covered by tho building. This, according to present plans, promises to Tjo a large and handsome structure, with iron curvilinear roof, which is to be glazed on ltendle'a Bystem. Tho work of erection will, we understand, be commenced forthwith. TnE Swiss, Austrian, and Belgian Governments have adopted stringent measures against the importation of American Potatoes- infected with the Colorado beetle, and the British Government have thanked Herr von Tschudi, the Swiss Envoy at Vienna, for directing public attention to this dangerous insect. Early Strawberries have already mado their appearance in Covent Garden Market, and St. Michael Pine-apples aro, if possible, finer than over; Radishes and French Salading aro also plontifuland excellent in quality. Mushrooms from open.air beds and a few tiuo samples of Truffles may likowiso now be obtained. Among choice vegetables are Rhubarb, Seakalo, new Potatoes, Asparagus, French Beans, and Tomatoes. The fine plants of Coelogyno oristata, for which Mr. Yates's nnrsory, at Sale, is remarkable, are now beautifully in flower. They are grown in flat pans, and some of the largest plants contain from 500 to 600 plump egg-shaped pseudo bnlbs, and bear upwards of a hundred spikes of snow-white flowers, amongst foliage of the freshest green imaginable. Such marvellous specimens havo fow equals among Orchids ; and, while their culture is extremely simple, an ordinary stovo temperature suits them admirably. One of the methods adopted by tho authorities of Paris for the encouragement of birds in the parks of that metropolis is, accord- ing to " L'lllustration," the placing of artificial nests, so cunningly constructed that each variety of bird will recognise its home at once, and suppose it to bo tho vacated mansion of a family just moved out. These neBts aro made by women for the sparrow, titmouse, warblor, kingfisher, chaffinch, cuckoo, blackbird, magpie, and others, and 3,000 of them have already boon put up. Mr. Elwes is about to publish a " Monograph " of tho genus Lilinm, a work which will be of service to all lovers of Lilies. It is pro. posed (says the prospectus) to publish a serios of folio plates, uniform with those of Mr. Bateman's " Monograph of Odontoglossum," which will be drawn on atone from life by Mr. Fitch, coloured by hand in tho best stylo, and acoompanied by a complete account of tho native conntries, culture, varieties, and history of all kuown Lilies. These will bo issued in parts containing eight plates each, at the price of 21b. per part. The work will bo commenced at onoe, and com. pletod in six partB, which (unless new Lilies are discovered in the 60 THE GAEDBN. [Jan. 16, 1875. mean time) will, it ia thought be sufficient to include all the Bpeoies as well as many of the finest varieties. Each part will also contain a large engraving, produced from a photograph, of the scenery of the countries where Lilies are most abundantly found — as Japan, the Himalaya, and California. Woodcuts and coloured drawings of the bulbs, seed-pods, &c., will be added. In short, nothing will be omitted which can add to the beauty and value of the work both to botanists, horticulturists, and the general public. Specimens of the illustrations and letterpress will be issued shortly, and will be sent for inspection, if desired, on application to Mr. Elwes, 6, Tenterden Street, Hanover Square, London, where the work will be published, and whero intending subscribers are requested to apply by letter, giving their full names and addresses. Let us hope that so valuable a work will meet with the support it deserves. A lecture was delivered in the Conncil.room of the Royal Horticultural Society, at South Kensington, on Wednesday evening last, by Prof. Thistleton Dyer, the subject being " Germination of Ferns from Spores." The spore was described as producing a series of elongated tube.like cells, which eventually flatten out into the green expansion or prothallus, familiar to all who propagate theBe plants. Beneath the surface of this organ two series of cystB or cellular structures are produced, the male organs or antherozoids being borne in one, while the female organ or archegonia occupies the other. The lecturer pointed out that artificial fertilisation might possibly be performed with a camel's.hair brush and a drop of water, and remarked that a prooess analagous to the inter-crossing of flowering plants seems to have taken plaoe in Gymnogrammaa, Pteris, and other Ferns. Such of our readers as are interested in the matter, cannot do better than read the remarks on this subject made by the Rev. M. J. Berkeley, in Vol. I. (new series) of the " Journal of the Royal Horticultural Society for 1866." Boldu. — The sheep in Chili have discovered a new medicine. Some sheep suffering from liver complaint — whether in oonseduence of high living, is not stated — were shut up in a corral, which was repaired with fresh twigs of Boldu (Boldoa fragrans) ; on nibbling the shootB, the sheep quickly recovered, whereupon the Fronch chemists proceeded to extract a new alkaloid from the leaves of this tree, which they expect sheep without wool to Swallow. — " American Agriculturist." OBITUARY. We havo to record, with much regret, the death of Mr. John Gibson which took place on Monday last, after a long period of severe suffering. Mr. Gibson, who was born in Cheshire, in 1815, was apprenticed at Chatsworth to the lato Sir Joseph Paxton, who, appreciating his worth, even as early as 1835, sent him out to India to collect plants for the late Duko of Devonshire, more especially the Amherstia nobilis, a plant, of the singular beauty of which we had then received Buch glowing accounts in this country. On returning to Chatsworth, Mr. Gibson was appointed foreman of the exotic plant department. In 1849 he left Chatsworth, having been appointed superintendent of Victoria Park, then in course of formation. In 1850 Greenwich Park was added to his charge. In 1858 the formation of Battersea Park was commenced, and, while in its rough sUite, Mr. Gibson was entrusted with its direction, principally as regards planting. Soon afterwards Kennington Park, the grounds of Chelsea Hospital, and those of the Royal Military Asylum, were also placed under his charge. In the early part of 1871 Mr. Gibson was elected to fill the vacancy caused by the death of Mr. James Mann, as superinten- dent of St. James's, the Green, and Hyde Parks, and Kensington Gardens, an ofKco which ho held until within a few months of his death. To Mr. Gibson wo aro chiofly, if not wholly, indebted for sub-tropical gardening, which was so well carried out by him in Battersea Park. He also laid out the ground for tho great International Exhibition of 1866, and was often consulted on similar matters on subsequent occasions. As to the esteem in which he was held by horticulturists throughout the country, the liberal support which tho testimonial, lately got up for him, received, speaks for itself. Indeed, for skill in artistic arrangement, and in decorativo gardening gonerally, as well as for integrity of character and courtesy of manners, Mr. Gibson deserves to be long remembered. Home-grown Tobacco for Fumigation.— Will any of your correspondents, toll mo how to preparo homo-grown tobneco ? I havo triod to barvoBt it by drying tho leaves herb-fashion, in a dark airy loft, but with little success, for though dry, thoy retain their greon colour, and when burnt gives oft a pungent smoko not at all llko tobacco. Rainfall and Sun-spots.— A caroful examination of tho periodicity of the rainfall of tlio United States in relation to tho poriodicity of tho solar spots has boon made by Prof. John Brocklosby of Trinity Collogo, Hartford County, U.S., and publishod in tho Dccembor number of tho " Amorican Journal of Science ond Art« •." tho result being the proof of a connection oxisting botweon tho variations of the Bun-spot area and thoBO of tho annual rainfall, tho rainfall tending to rieo above tho mean when the sun-spot area is in excoBS, and to fall below when thore is n deflcionoy of solar activity. NOTES AND QUESTIONS. [The following notes and questions came to hand, or were answered, too late for insertion in their several departments.] An Orange within an Orange.— Mr. A. H. Strong has sent us an Orange containing, juBt beneath the skin over the eye, a small Orange embedded ia a little cavity. On cutting the little Orange open, it was found to be in every respect perfect except that it contained no seeds. Seeds of Californian Trees.— I should be greatly obliged if you could give me the addresB of some American seed merchant from whom I could obtain seeds of Californian Conifers in quantity ; also, if you could let me know how I can obtain their price lists. — Conifbb. [Mr. Bolander, San Francisco.] Tacsonia sanguine a.— Notwithstanding Mr. Baines's skill and experience I am still sceptical as to placing this Tacsonia with cool-house plants ; I assume a cool-houso to mean one kept in winter a few degrees above freezing. It ia a native of the West Indies, and in all nursery catalogues it is classed with stove climbers. Who ia right ? — J. M., Hatckckurck, near Axmintter, Devon. *Wellingtonias from Home-saved Seeds.— The first seeds of this tree ripened in Europe germinated last year with a Mr. Thil, in the neighbour- hood of Epernon. They were self-fertilised, and were allowed to fall around the tree where they Bprang up unassisted. The leaves on the young plants were verticillate and not alternate, as on the adult. [So says the " Illustration Horticole "; but years ago we saw healthy young trees of Wellingtonia at Bicton raised by Mr. Barnes from seeds saved there.] Rodriguezia crispa-— This pretty Orchid, which is one of the finest of the green-flowered section, is now in bloom in the Orchid-house at Kew. It has a gracefully arching spike of pale pea-green flowers, the segments of which have a crisped appearance, and the blossoms smell exactly like flowers of the com- mon yellow Primrose. In habit it closely resembles R. planifoUa, and may indeed prove to be only a crisped form of that species.— B. Asparagus decumhens. — This plant well deserves culture for the sake of its fresh green feathery spray, which is invaluable for bouquets and other floral decorations. A plant of it in the succulent-house at Kew has just borne a profusion of delicate little white flowers, and theBe are now succeeded by bright solitary fruits, each about the size of a large Marrow Pea and of exactly the same colour.— B. Goldfussia isophylla.— This fine old winter-blooming plant ought to find a place wherever Eranthemum pulchellum, Linnm trigynum, Euphorbia facquiniffl flora, and the elegant Thyrsacanthus rutilans are cultivated, inasmuch as it equals them in profusion of flowers, which are of a delicate blue or lilac colour, quite distinct from those of most other winter -blooming plants. Spring- struck cuttings make bushy little plants in a few months, and flower well the following winter. — Q. Making Cuttings- — I believe the impression is very general that cuttings will not root unless cut over closely underneath a joint. I was at one time taught to discard all cuttingB which had not joints to cut under, but I have since rooted many thousands with neither heel nor joint at the base ; and so freely do they strike that I havo no hesitation in preferring cuttings of this form to those of any other. — J. Muib. The Forelle or Trout Pear. — Amongst notes on Pears, I seldom see mention made of this excellent and highly ornamental variety. The late bright summer brought out its colour in such perfection that in November and December, when ripe, fruits of it were of a bright fiery red and regularly spotted on the sunny Bide, while the shady Bide was golden-yellow. ThiB Pear is also excellent in quality, and should not be overlooked .where brightly- coloured fruits are in request. The tree is vigorous and distinct in habit, and here on our east wall it is a regular cropper. — J. Gboom, Hcnham Sallt Suffolk. The Mole not a Vegetable Feeder.— I caught, says a correspondent of the " Tribune," a mole in October, and imprisoned it in a box 12 inches square, slats across the top, with 5 inches earth in the bottom. I put in some slices of Potato, Turnip, Parsnip, Carrot, and Beet, and left them three days, but nothing of them was eaten. I then put in some grub worms and some earth worms, which were devoured ravenouBly, the half-Btarved mole taking them from my fingers. I then left it two days longer, then put in some corn, which was eaten. I did not go to it again for three or four days, but when I went it waB dead. It died rather than eat vegetables. Olive Trees.— In answer to " G. A. H." (see p. 42), allow me to state that the climate of Cannes, where Olive trees flourish, differB little from that of Nice, though perhaps the dull dry heat is felt more at the former than at the latter place. Between May and September little rain falls near Cannes, and vegeta- tion assumes a grey and withered appearance until resuscitated by the hoavy rains which afterwards set in. The neighbourhood of Cannes is hilly to a certain extent. I never heard of manure being used in the propagation of Olive trees. The soil consists of very heavy loam, and I am told the trees are raised from seed. The older the tree is the richer the crops are from it; and as its growth is vory slow, fifteen or twenty years usually elapse before any really valuable returns are received. Old Olive trees are very decorative. Their colour forms quite a feature in the landscape near Cannes, for the foliage iB easily moved, and quivers with the slightest breath of air, which frequently brings tho silver-grey undersides of the leaves into contrast with the dark green of the uppor surface, and produces in tho bright sunlight a very beautiful effect.— E. Fischer, Edinburgh. Flowering Trees and Shrubs for Churchyards— I have in my church- yard a border of 25 yards in length by 1£ yards in width, dividing bo much of the churchyard from adjoining premises. On tho premises side there is a good screen about 8 feet high of Hollies and Tew, so that as I do not want a screen, I think perhaps that I had better have principally deciduous shrubs and trees for the border. With Lilacs, Laburnums, flowering Thorns, and Acer Negundolam well acquainted; but I should think to these many additions might be made. Our churchyard, as it is, is the admiration of all visitors, and I have now an oppor- tunity of adding to its beauty, which I should be sorry not to make the most of. The season is getting on and I am quite ready for planting.— E. P., Tunbr'ulge Well*. [The following will probably answer your purpose, viz.— Weigela rosea; Spirnrn Lindleyana, Fortunci, and callosa; Pyrus japonica; Ghent Azaleas; Double -flowering. Poach ; Daphne Mezereum ; Foreythia viridissima and sus- pensa ; Roses of different kinds ; white and yellow Broom ; Prunus sinensis fl. pi. — pink and white; P. triloba; Philadelphus coronarius; Borberis Darwinn ; Magnolias ; Rhododendrons and Kalmias ; Laurustinus ; JaBminum nudiflorum ; Hypericum calycinum ; Hibiscus syriacus ; Rock Roses ; Rose Acacia ; Escallonia macrantha; Guelder Rosob ; Yuccas; Arbutus Unedo ; and such berry-bearing plants as the Pyracantha, Cotoneaster microphylla, and Simmondsii.j THE GAEDEN. 61 No. 166.] SATT/KDAY, JAN. 23, 1875. [Vol. VII. " This is an art Which does mend nature : change it rather : but The Am itself is Natuee." — Shakespeare. SEEDS AND SEED CROPS. Most gardeners select their own seeds, stating both variety and quantity required, and, whether the order be large or small, this is the best course to follow. Of late years it has become the practice with some seedsmen to offer certain quantities of seeds — to crop gardens of given extent — at what may happen to be tempting prices, but only the inexperienced will be led away by such offers.' Hardly two kitchen gardens arc cropped alike, as regards quantities and varieties. Here a certain vegetable is in constant demand ; there it is, perhaps, not wanted at all. In one place certain varieties are found to succeed, and in another they are a comparative failure ; and this applies to the villa garden just as much as to the nobleman's 6-acre enclosure. How then can the seedsman .anticipate your wants ? He will be able, no doubt, to dispose of his stock in a satisfactory manner to himself, but the customer will have to pay for many things he does not want. Let everyone therefore order what he requires, and he ought to get his own selection as cheap, proportionately, as the seedsmen do. I may state here that some if not all the so-called " collections " of seeds advertised to crop kitchen gardens of different dimensions, are neither suitable in kind, nor sufficient in quantity, for the purpose. Economical as we can be, to the extent of saving all old seeds to mix; with the new, I find a kitchen garden of 4 acres cannot be furnished at anything like the price of the seedman's "collection," after making a slight allowance for bad seeds, birds, and vermiu. I see some respectable firms repudiate the practice of selecting for their customers, realising fully that they cannot do so with satisfaction to either party, and it would be well if others were to follow their example. Possibly some economy might be effected if every seed was sure to vegetate ; but, as such a thing cannot be guaranteed, the gardener has to sow much more thickly than is absolutely necessary to ensure a crop ; and, in estimating how much seed is required for an acre, such contingencies must be taken into account. Of course the seedsman is not always to blame for failure ; sometimes the customer's want of care in storing is the cause. Still, we have often seen signal failures with such things as Peas, Carrots, Onions, &c., from seed sown when it arrived from the shop, and said to have been proved before sending out. To prevent disappointment from any cause as much as possible, the best plan is to deal only with respectable firms, who are careful to meet their customers' wants. To retain the latent vitality of seeds as long as possible, they must be preserved from the exciting influences of heat and moisture. It is desirable that they should never be sub- jected to a higher or lower temperature than 40°, but it is absolutely essential that they should be kept dry. The moment a seed comes in contact with moisture it begins to grow if the temperature is high enough, and if not then placed in circumstances congenial to its development, as in the soil, it will of course perish. Without moisture in sufficient quantity to excite growth, however, seeds may be subjected to a much higher temperature than 40° without any immediate bad effects, though a high and dry temperature impairs their vitality ; hence it is that seeds that have been kept for several years do not germinate so vigorously, though they are generally more fruitful. For this reason, old Melon seeds are preferred to new, as they do not run so much to vine ; and when new seeds only of a variety are to be had, some gardeners carry them in their pocket, or keep them in a warm room for a while to effect the same end. On the other hand, it is equally necessary to keep seeds dry under a low temperature — 42° being the growing point, or lowest temperatnre at which seeds will germinate as a rule ; exposure to damp below this figure promotes decay, especially in the more tender seeds. Thus, Kidney Beans, for instance, may be subjected for a time to a temperature of 35°. without much injury if they are kept dry, but it is a well-known fact that they will perish almost rather than germinate in soil below a temperature of 45° ; hence early crops are generally uncertain. Under these circum- stances, and seeing that collections of seeds, even for a large garden, are not very bulky, the best plan is to keep them in a portable cupboard, which can be moved when required and may be found needful in very warm or very cold weather. Where seed saving in quantity is an object other arrangements must, of course, be made, but having pointed out the essentials it is only needful in such cases to adapt them to circumstances. The seed press should be methodically pigeon-holed, according to the quantities each space has to hold, and these should be labelled to prevent confusion. These remarks being intended for seed sowers rather than seed growers, I need say nothing 'about seeds-bags or packets, further than that the seeds should be stored in the brown paper parcels in which they arrive, and be taken out when wanted. Many failures date from the period of sowing, for which, not unfrequently, the seedsman is unjustly blamed. To prevent disappointment it is a wise plan to prove seeds before sowing, especially vegetable or flower seeds, of which large breadths have to be sown. To do this it is only necessary to sow a few seeds of each variety in a small pot, in light soil, and introduce them to a moist temperature of 90° or a 100°, taking care to water them about a day after sowing. If they possess any vitality they will soon show it under such a stimulus, and the number of seeds of each kind that germinate will be a guide for future operations. In sowing small seeds everything depends upon the care and intelligence of tho operator, and in outdoor crops, such as are committed to the ground at once, much importance attaches to the condition of the soil, and the time of sowing different crops. With small seeds, such as the Calceolaria, Primula, Lobelia, Celery, herbs, (see p. 42) to plant the following in his swampy ground, viz : — Juniperus vulgaris (communis), and its varieties, J. hiberniea and Suecica, J. Sabiniana, Tamariscifolia, J. tripartita, viginiana, and its varieties, Camacyparis sphaeroidea and its varieties, Taxodiura distichum, Thuja occi- dentalis. Besides these, the following do very well in rather wet but well- drained ground, viz. :— Abies canadensis, Cupressus Goveniana and Lawson iana, Picea grandis, Pinus austriaca, maritima (HalGpensis), and tuberculata, Retinospora ericoides, leptoclada, and squarrosa, Sequoia sempervirens, anl Widdringtonia cupressoides. — William Baekon, Elvaston Nursiriest Borroicash. Hepaticas under Glass.— The best plant I know of for winter blooming in a cold greenhouse is the common blue Hepatica. Last spring I potted a large plant of it, which I took into my greenhouse about ten days ago and it is now one mass of lovely blue flowers. There are two great advantages in forcing the Hepatica : the buds, though apparently dormant, will open almost while you wait, so that you may have your plant in full bloom at an exact date ; secondly, under glass you may obtain any amount of seed, and, as the pollen ripens, cross the varieties well together. I mean to try Hepatica angulosa, the loveliest of the section, next year. Hepatica seed should be sown in a sheltered spot in fine soil ; it takes a long time to come up, but plants thus obtained bloom better than any others. I have seen a large bed of two-year old plants that were quite superb. — P. Miles. Raising Seedling Geraniums.— I sow hybrid Geranium seed directly it is ripe, leaving the feather end sticking out. Some seeds come up at once, and some are coming up now— two months, at least, after being sown. Two years aso I tried to raise a good white-flowered white-edged Geranium, and saved a seedling with a white edge that had been raised from Madame Vaucher. This edge disappeared in the spring, and the whole plant merged into a fine bronze, somewhat like Egyptian Queen. Towards the end of the summer the leaves became quite green, and now it is nothing more than an ordinary salmon-eyed Zonal. The lovely Zonal Geranium, Rose Peach, was raised by Mr. Pearson from Violet Hill. Seedlings from Rose Peach are frequently variegated; and I have also got a finely variegated Bport from that Geranium. Now, Violet Hill, the parent, I have never seen variegated ; and though it is one of the very best bedding Geraniums in point of colour and flower, it was raised by Messrs. Henderson for a Tricolor. So this variegation has passed through, but never appeared in, Violet Hill, and now comes out in Rose Peach. — M. The Blue Vanda.— I am much pleased with the figure which you have given of our blue Vanda (see p. 43), which has been in Mr. Lane's possession twenty years. It carao from the Botanic Gardens, Glasgow, and was a very small plant in a small 60-sized pot. In 1867, when it first came under my care, it had ;a long bare stem. Six years ago it pushed some fresh roots from amongst the lowest leaves; the following spring I cut it off just below tho fresh roots, put it in a much smaller basket, and plunged it in a hotbed. It soon began to grow, and in a Bhort time it was removed to the stovo, where it stands on a front stage of slate, with hot-water pipes underneath. Tho top of the plant i& about 18 inches from the glass. The compost in which it is planted consists of lumps of good rough peat and equal parts of crocks and charcoal. About March I begin to water it overhead, and continue to do so till the flower- spikes show themselves, and then I cut off the supply. When the flowers begin to fade, I gradually withhold water, which is then given about, say, once a week. I never let tho soil become quite dry. When this Vanda is growing it likes abundance of water and plenty of air. I ought to mention that for three months my stove temperature falls as low as60u at night, and sometimes lower than tliat ; in fact, it is rather an intermediate-house than a stove. Mr. Lane tells me that this Vanda never flowered so well as it has done these last five years. -W. Smith, Badycmorc, ]£enlry-on-Thamcs. Ragley Hall.— In our account of the places laid out by Mr. Marnock, this was printed Haglcy, instead of Ragley. They are, however, two totally different place*. At the former (Lord Hertford's) Mr. Marnock carried out work ; at the latter (Lord Lyttelton's) ho never did. THE GAKDEN. 83 No. 167.] SATURDAY, JAN. 30, 1875. [Vol. VII. " This is an art Which does mend nature : change it rather : The Art itself is Natube." — Shakespeare. but A PLEA FOE FRUITS AND VEGETABLES. When the Canon Sedillo was ill he sent for Dr. Sangrado, ■who was considered, in Valladolid, as a second Hippocrates. His faithful biographer describes him as a man of solemn appearance, deliberate in his discourse, and mathematical in his reasoning. He was a tall thin person, and had kept the shears of destiny employed during forty years at least. " Pray, what is your ordinary diet P " was his first question. " My usual food," replied the Canon, " is broth and juicy meat." " Broth aud juicy meat ! " cried the physician, " then I do not wonder at finding you in this condition ; such dishes are poisons in disguise, and snares which luxury spreads for mankind in order to ruin them the more effectually. You must renounce all dainty victuals ; the most wholesome are those which are the most insipid, for as the blood is so, it requires such aliment as partakes of its own nature. And do you drink wine ? " " Yes," said the Canon, " diluted with water." " Oh, that makes no difference," replied Sangrado. " What irregularity is here ! Under such a regimen as this, it is a wonder you are not dead long ago. How old are you, pray ? " "I am in my sixty-ninth year," replied Sedillo. "Aye," said the physician, " an early old age is always the consequence of intemperance. If you'had drunk nothing but water all your life, and had been satisfied with simple food, such as boiled Apples, for example, or Peas and Beans, you would not now be tormented with gout, but would still enjoy the perfect use of your limbs." Without going to such lengths as the sage, it is to be regretted that fruits aud vegetables do not form a more important part of our daily meals. It is quite certain that, from early times, we English have been great consumers of animal food. From the days of our warlike ancestors, whose huge barons of beef, and oxen and sheep roasted whole, are described with national pride by their chroniclers, down to a very recent day, when, at our civic and social feasts, it was thought right that the table should " groan " under a load of heavy dishes, we have looked with a pity bordering on contempt upon the delicate dishes which a French Phillis provides for her household. We grow splendid fruit and excellent vegetables — the best in the world — and yet they occupy a very subordi- nate place at our tables. How seldom, among the substantial viands which compose our breakfast, do we find any of the thousand-and-one excellent dishes which can be made of Tomatoes, Vegetable Marrows, Artichokes, &c. ! It is the same at luncheon and dinner ; vegetables are too often repre- sented by sodden Greens or ill-cooked Potatoes ; while fruit, which ought to form an important part of every meal, is merely used as a dessert. Who can properly appreciate the delicate flavour of a Strawberry or Greengage after a heavy repast composed of three or four courses ? I should like luncheons which consist, for example, of a light vegetable soup, followed by a compote of Raspberries, Gooseberries, Apples, or any fruit in season, with cream and bread, to be the rule instead of the exception. As it is, in the houses of the middle classes the greatest monotony prevails. Where there might be a number of wholesome and inexpen- sive dainties, their meals are generally heavy and unvaried. As regards the working people of this civilised country, their cooking is, as a rule, as bad as it can possibly be. With the exception of those who have been cooks in affluent families, their wives are unacquainted with the first rudiments of the art. Where they might have, at a small cost, capital vegetable soups, good fruit puddings, and jams, with Potatoes cooked in many different ways, they are too often satisfied with the latter succulent, sodden and watery, as an accompaniment to the black and juiceless chop, or the red herring, which is such a standing dish with the poor of our towns. Of the composi- tion of good soups or broths they know literally nothing, though they gratefully accept soup as a gift from some con- siderate and more intelligent neighbour. In Scotland, plain cooking is far better understood, and I have many times dined sumptuously at humble tables on hodge-podge and barley broth— a couple of excellent dishes. When we turn to France, who cannot remember the good repasts (not to speak of Paris, and the Trois Freres, or the Maison Doree) at wayside inns, where " Carottes a la Maitre d'Hotel," or " Haricots Verts" formed the staple, and the meat occupied but a secondary place ? Then, an excellent dessert, not always com- posed of the " Quatres Mendiants " (Almonds, Raisin?, Nuts, and Figs), crowned the whole. In Germany, vegetables are not so well cooked (though they are grown in great abun- dance), and the fruits there are of inferior quality; still excellent dishes are composed of both. The compotes of Apples, Pears, and Cherries, and some of the vegetable preparations are not excelled by anything in England. No Englishman, it is true, could be found to tolerate Sauer- Kraut; but this may be merely prejudice. In Denmark (though rather behind in culinary matters) a favourite and delicious dish is R6d-grod. It is simply fruit of any or various kinds, stewed until quite tender, and passed through a sieve, then mixed with boiled Semolina, or Rice- flour, and sugar, and eaten with cream and bread. In Italy, the poorer classes live almost entirely on vegetables, fruits, and Maccaroni. Chestnuts form the staple food of the labourers in some parts. Tolerable bread is made of them, and they may be cooked in many different ways. In Tuscany, a soup made of bread and Beans is a sort of national dish. The labourers cannot afford to eat much animal food. They bod their meat first for soup, and serve it up afterwards in a kind of stew with Potatoes, Carrots, and Turnips. This is called " Lesso." Indian Corn is extensively used ; they make of it Polenta (a kind of mash), which is both good and wholesome. Thus, the Italian peasant, though poorer than our English labourer, has a pleasant variety in his meals, to which his northern brother is a stranger. No doubt the short winters and sunny climates of Italy render animal food less necessary. I was nearly forgetting Spain, but there the art of cookery is nearly as backward as everything else. Nature has been bountiful indeed to this ill-starred country, but her gifts are not turned to the best advantage. When the traveller from this island of fog and mist finds himself in a Spanish market, he is dazzled and delighted with everything which meets his eye. The costumes of buyers and sellers— the graceful mantilla shading the olive cheek of beauty— the brilliant colours of the peasants' dresses, richly ornamented m some parts of Spain with gold and silver coins, the enormous red umbrellas, the clatter of fans, mingling with the cease- less plash of the fountains in the middle of the market- place, the piles of fruit and vegetables, green and golden Melons, purple Grapes, Pomegranates and Peaches, the huge bouquets of Roses and Lilies, mixed with other flowers which grow luxuriantlyinthat sunny climate— all these formapicture, which, when once seen, can never be forgotten. But the people themselves make but a poor use of their advantages. Though Spain is the country where the Olive flourishes best the oil is very inferior, and it frequently gives an unpleasant taste to the dishes, in the preparation ot which it is lavishly used. Cabbages and Beans are the principal vegetables, if we except Lettuces and salad herbs, lhe spfendid fruits I have described are seldom cooked m a manner to tempt a fastidious palate, but one hardly misses this because they are in such perfection that a good meal may be made of them in the raw state, with the addition ot bread and chocolate. I must not forget burnt Almonds without which no Spanish dessert is complete. To return to England : I often wish that every cottage had a garden, where fruit and vegetables could be grown, where the good housewife, like Chaucer's Grisilde, could gather the Wortes and other herbs times of t, _ The which she shrede and sethe for her living. The principal object of village horticultural societies should be to spread the knowledge of gardening, and to encourage amateurs and small cultivators to grow the best kinds ot irmt and vegetables. It appears to me that a great reform is wanted here, but I have travelled a long way from my starting point, and must reserve what I have to say on this head tor a future paper. -^ " 84 THE GAKDEN. [Jan. 30, 1875. NOTES OF THE WEEK. The rare and chaste Cattleya Bogotensis is now in flower in Mr. Michael's collection, at Highgate. The flowers measure fully 6 inches in diameter ; sepals and petals crisped, and of the purest translucent white, the petals being 3 inches long by 2 inches broad ; the lip is also white, and beautifully stained in the interior with lemon-yellow. Last week's Potato imports into London amounted to 1,160 tons and, 3,691 sacks from Dunkirk, 12,617 bags from Antwerp, 576 sacks from Ghent, 169 tons from St. Brieux, 992 sacks from Boulogne, 171 tons from Calais. Some idea of the loftiness attained by trees of the genus Eucalyptus may be formed when it is stated that some of the specimens of the E. amygdalina, measured by Baron von Miiller, the Government Botanist of Victoria, would overtop the cross on St. Panl's Cathedral.' Three new species of Eranthemnm, recently received at Kew, are remarkable for the beauty and brilliant colouring of their foliage. None of them have yet flowered, and they only bear the provisional names given them by Messrs. Veitch, who obtained them from the South Pacific Islands. The annual meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society is fixed to take place on February the 9th. We are 'glad to hear that Mr. T. Bruges Flower, F.L.S., of Bath, has just finished the concluding number of his " Flora of Wiltshire," containing the Grasses and Ferns, which has been pub- lished by the Wiltshire Archaeological and Natural History Society, in their magazine. It is hoped that it will be found practicable to re- publish the whole of this excellent Flora in a single volume. The " Revue des deux Mondes " of 31st January contains an interesting paper by M. Planchon, on Eucalyptus globulus. The subject is treated from the botanical, economical, and medical points of view. The Eucalyptus is known to combine an iron texture with rapidity of growth. Some estimates have lately been made with reference to its value as a forest tree in Algeria. According to M. Cordier, if 1,000 of the trees were planted closely together, there might be cut down in 5 years, 500 of them worth 600 frs. ; in 10 years 250, worth 1,323 frs. ; in 15 years 125, worth 1,473 frs. ; in 20 years 60, worth 1,521 frs. ; and in 26 years 60, worth 3,195 frs. The plants figured in the "Illustration Horticole" for the three months ending 1874 are — Sciadocalyx Lnciani, a pretty Gesnerad raised between the Foxglove-flowered Sciadocalyx and Tydaea pardina ; Theophrasta imperialis, a well-known species ; Camellia Miss Minnie Merritt, a variety in the way of Jubilee ; Fourcroya Lindeni, a pretty kind with yellow-bordered leaves; Draescna Troubetzkoi, a species from the Melanesian Islands, inter- mediate between D. Regina and albicans; Clavija Rodekiana, a Theophrasta-like plant, and a valuable addition to the genus to which it belongs; Spathiphyllum beliconiaofolium, a beautiful Aroid from the banks of the Rio-Huallaga, in Peru ; Dracama densicoma, a green-leaved kind, which produces great pendent spikes of creamv inflorescence ; and Kentia Balmoreana, a handsome Palm discovered on Lord Howe's Mauds by Mr. Moore, of Sydney. We have received, from Professor Sargent, a report respecting the present condition of the Arnold Arboretum, presented to the President and Fellows of Harvard University, which shows that, in spite of limited means, satisfactory progress has been made in the two years during which Mr. Sargent has been entrusted with its formation. The soil and indigenous growth on the various portions of the grounds have been carefully studied with a view to a proper determination of the permanent disposition of the various collections, and several thousand trees and shrubs have been raised for the future plantations. An inspection of the trees already growing in the Arboretum showed that many of them were in a miserable condition from long neglect of proper thinning, and the consequent want of food, light, and air. To remedy this as far as possiblo the woods and old plantations havo been gradually thinned out, the weak, deformed, and unhealthy plants being cut first, and then such as interfered with fino single specimens, or with specimens of only occasional occurrence. Returning health in many of the trees, and a greatly improved appearance of the woods and belts of timber, are already apparent, although the operation of thinning out old woodlands, with a view to forming healthy, well developod trees is necessarily a slow one, and must be extended over many years. Already many noble specimens of Rome of the finest native trees are scattered through the open portions of the grounds, giving to the arboretum a furnished appearance, and proving that the situation is particularly adapted to the use to which it is to be devoted. A catalogue of the trees growing in the aboretum is subjoiued to the report. CHERRY CULTURE ON WALLS. It is often desirable to grow the Cherry on walls, not only with the object of having early fruit, but also of prolonging the supply, and this may be done by taking the first-crop from a south or west wall, and the latest off a north wall. Considering the prolific habit of the Cherry under proper treatment, it is well worthy of a wall, for few fruits are more refreshing or agreeable when perfectly ripe — as a Cherry should be before ib is eaten. It is only those, however, who grow their own fruit that can have it in this condition, for the Cherries of the shop are generally gathered too early, the growers being eager to push their stock into the market as soon as possible. The Cherry comes early into bearing if it is well trained and the knife is used sparingly in pruning ; but damage is often done in this way to the trees, especially where no skilled gardener is employed, or where the jobbing hand is called in to do the pruning, and often where the proprietor himself, under the impression that pruning of some kind must be performed, sets about the task without a very clear notion of what is required. Perhaps I cannot better give an idea of how to proceed with young trees agaiust a wall than by describing my own practice here, and its results. Ten years ago I had to deal with a west wall of young trees, which had been planted about three years. I found they had been pruned hard back annually, and, being in a strong soil, they had simply pushed out gross wood every year, without showing the faintest signs of fruit. As I found these in an unpruned condition, I proceeded to have all the most awkwardly-placed shoots cut clean out, and as many of those re- maining as could be accommodated without crowding laid in their entire length, so that I at once secured fine little fan-shaped trees several feet in diameter. I also root-pruned them slightly at the time, but I have not had occasion to repeat the opera- tion since, the laying in of the young wood entire, or nearly so, and summer pinching, rendering it unnecessary. The following season the young shoots flowered freely and bore their first crops. During the summer the breast wood was pinched regularly, a work of little time, the leading shoots were laid in as they grew, and additional young limbs led off from the upper sides of the old ones, as the spaces between these widened with the extended radius. In this way the vigour of the tree was expended uniformly in the production of bearing wood. In winter no pruning was necessary, except the shortening of the spurs here and there where the foreright shoots had been pinched. All the time, of course, the previous year's wood — that which bore the fruit — was forming natural spurs and buds for future crops ; for it must be borne in mind, that the Cherry bears freely upon both the previous year's wood and the old wood, the latter furnishing bearing spurs, which yearly increase in size and bear, in fact, the most fruit, By the third year the trees had extended themselves so much that it was found necessary to remove every alternate one, and since then they have again met and filled the space allotted to them, or nearly so. The only circum- stance to be regretted is, that eventually they will not have as much room as they would require. There is nothing more inimical to the welfare of a stone-fruit tree than a restricted development of the branches. There cannot be the least doubt that a free extension is the surest guarantee of fer- tility. It is astonishing what an area a Peach, Plum, or Cherry tree will cover in a few years, without the least danger of the trees getting scant of bearing wood at the bottom ; yet an excuse is often offered for the mutilating process, but one that is invalidated by the facts of the case, for no trees break and furnish so freely as those mentioned, no matter how long the shoots may be. If allowed, an ordinarily vigorous Peach tree, for instance, will, by its powers of extension, cover 000 square feet in eight or ten "years, and ought to bear a proportionate quantity of fruit. The Cherry trees in question continue to bear every year profusely, on every branch, from its furthest extremity down to the bole, within a foot of the ground. We never disturb the roots. The border is planted with Goose- berries, and these are manured occasionally. Sometimes only a mulching is applied, which is particularly beneficial to the Cherries in dry weather. The Cherry will keep well on the tree after it is quite ripe if a mat be hung over the tree. In this way we have kept early Cherries till nearly the end of August, thus prolonging the supply from June. J. S. W. Jan. 30, 1875.] THE GAEDBN. 85 THE FRUIT GARDEN. GRAFTED GOURDS. At the last exhibition of the Central Society of Horticulture in Prance, the public had an opportunity of inspecting the magnificent collection of Cucurbitaceous plants shown by M. Gaillard, and were much struck by specimens of fruit of different forms and colours, Yellow Gourd, into which the stem of a Green Pear-shaped Gourd has been introduced, the latter having a portion cut off and replaced bv a part of a White Gourd. which, though united, belonged to different result of grafting ; and, although such unions ordinary to people unacquainted with the art who are familiar with vegetable physiology certain conditions, a portion cut off one fruit will unite firmly and grow. One condition the fruit must be of an analogous character, family. Another precaution that must be kinds. This was the naturally appear extra- of grafting, yet those are aware that, under and placed on another is indispensable, viz., and belong to the same taken is to raise the && &&$+ Pf^ m ft I li WL IB • »-.>■■ 1 'Bm Spanish Gourd, on which an Elector's Cap Gourd has been grafted. epidermis, or the skin of the fruit to be united, so as to bring the cellular tissue, in course of formation, into contact ; for, unless this is done, no lasting union can take place. The first of the accom- panying illustrations represents a yellow Gourd, into which has been introduced the stalk of a green Pear-shaped Gourd, from which a large slice has been cut off and replaced by a corresponding section of a white Gonrd. In this case a perfect union has been effected. The second illustration represents an Elector's Cap grafted upon a green Spanish Gourd. In this case it was sufficient to partly peel the Gourd and make an incision into the tissue so as to form, as it were, a socket for the Cap, which was also peeled so as to expose a portion of the cellular tissue. The third illustration represents a Virginian Gourd, the extremity of which has been cut off and a portion of the interior scooped out in order to obtain the seed. This having been accomplished, the two parts were again drawn together with a thread, but in such a manner that they did not fit exactly. In spite of this, however, a union was thoroughly effected. The facility (says the " Revue Horticole," from which this account is translated), with which Cucurbitaceous plants will unite under the circumstances just described is most likely due to a gummy resinous principle, which is found in the tissues of the stalks and the fruit of these plants, and which assists adhesion in the first place, and then the more perfect junction of the two surfaces. RAISING VINES PROM EYES IN TURF. Mr. Muik (see p. 80) states that raising Vine eyes in turf originated at Dalkeith many years ago, and goes on to describe the system of raising the eyes on 6-inch square pieces of turf, exactly as recom. mended by me at different times and practised since 1867, and now practised in many places. I would much rather have avoided raising the discussion now, but, trifling as the matter is, I think such an unauthorised statement should not paBS unchallenged. In the first place, then, I would say that, personally, Mr. Muir must be unacquainted with what took place at Dalkeith at the time he states, for he never was there, and he is clearly not read up in the Virginian Gourd, of which the end has been cut off, and, after the seed was extracted, replaced. matter. Secondly, during the eight years I was at Dalkeith I saw every Vinery on the place planted but one, which was reno- vated, and not a single eye was raised on turf for any purpose, but in small pots as Mr. Thomson describes in his book on the Vine, though Mr. Thomson planted one-year.old Vines on turves and in baskets, and also Vines from eyes after they had been raised in pots and were about 18 inches high. Thirdly, I began the turf system with the first Vinery I planted after I came to Wortley, at the end of 1864, and Mr. Thomson began his turf practice in 1870, with the Vines for planting at Clovenfords ; and, during the incidental discussion that was raised then on the subject by others than myself. Mr. Thomson stated that his practice and mine had no points " in common," except that we both used turf — he a bed of turf 4 inches deep, and I 6-inch square sods, which I moved about according to circumstances, just the plan Mr. Muir now adopts, and recommends to your readers in the calendar for this week. I hope, therefore, your correspondent will see fit to retract state- ments, which, to say the least, he has made without taking the trouble to discover whether they were correct or not. It is not a question of spreading the roots of pot-raised Vines on turves or trays, but raising the eyes on turves from the beginning, in order that no check may be experienced, as is apt to be the case when they are raised in pots, and afterwards transferred to the turves. The use of scoops or baskets for young Vines that have to be moved, is not new, for French Vine growers have adopted this plan from time immemorial in transferring layered plants from the parent 86 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 30, 1875. plant to the border. The flat turf trays are a decided improvement in this respect, bat the principle is the same — the object in both cases being to avoid disturbing the roots in planting. J. Simpson. Wortley. THE GRAPE VINE. Preparing Permanent Vines for Early Forcing. For very early forcing it is much better and more economical to employ pot Vines, as these can be pushed harder than is desirable with permanent Vines under similar circumstances, and a greater crop can be got from a given area. Still, in some places, where there are many Vineries, one house can often be afforded for early work; and it is here necessary to point out the conditions to be observed in such a case. Vines that are forced early for a number of years get weaker and weaker every season, as might be expected, seeing that growth is pro- duced at the most unfavourable period of the year, and under very artificial and adverse circumstances. It is most desirable, therefore, that Vines intended for such work should be thoroughly established and in good health and vigour to begin with. This point is too often lost sight of, however, in the desire to hurry the Vines into early action. The " working round " process is begun almost before the Vines are more than half grown, and the consequence is, that by the time they are fit to start in November for a first early crop, they are already enfeebled and quite unfit for more than a few years duty, and have to be either rooted out and replaced, or let back for a few years to recruit themselves. Under these circum- stances, therefore, it is not advisable to force other than aged Vines that are in good health and that have not previously been started before the natural season. One month or six weeks is as great a leap as should be attempted in o.ne year ; and, assuming that the Vines have been previously started about the 1st of March, the middle of January or beginning of February, will be soon enough the first year. The second year they may be started about the middle of December, and the third they will be fit to start in November, about as early as it is ever found desirable to start Black Hamburghs for an early crop, and not often needful in these days when late Grapes can be kept till the beginning of summer. The directions already given for culture during the growing period, and pruning, &c, are also applicable to early forced Vines, only that more discretion in the matter of airing and temperature, and care generally, is required. The ability of the Vines to stand hard forcing for a number of years in succession depends greatly upon intelligent practice in these matters. The object should be to dispense with artificial heat as much as possible, and husband the sun heat on all favourable occasions. Air should be admitted constantly by the hot air ventilators, and by the back and front shutters whenever possible, if only through a chink; but avoid draughts ; and damping must be reduced to a minimum while neutralising the scorching effects of hot pipes by keeping the border in a properly moist state. As regards bottom-heat, watering, &c, the reader is referred to my remarks on that head. Inarching. Inarching and budding are resorted to when it is desired to increase the varieties in a Vinery without planting (or employ particular stocks) which is inconvenient, and often attended with poor success in a border that has been made for some years. These two practices, especially the first, have quite superseded grafting with Vines, being both simple and almost certain to be attended with success. I prefer inarching in all cases; but budding is also a sure way of getting a strong cane, and even fruit, the first year, as the buds attached bear just like the natural buds of the Vines — according to Mr. Stevens, of Trentham, who has practised budding frequently with great success. Inarching is best performed upon the young growing wood, while it is still green, but when the tissues are just beginning to harden. It is performed by simply bringing the stock and scion together, and taking a slice of each, with a sharp knife, about 2 inches in length and of equal breadth, where the junction is to be effected, and bringing the two together so that the edges of both meet exactly, when they are secured above and below the union with a tie of matting, and afterwards bound tightly together with soft matting the entire length of the cut. No further wrapping is necessary. The stock may be stopped four or five joints above the union, but the point of the scion must be encouraged to grow. A complete union will generally be effected in about a fortnight, or less if the Vines are growing vigorously, but it will be necessary to examine the shoot frequently during that time to see if the matting is not cutting into the bark as the growth progresses. When the union is complete, the bandage should be removed entirely, and the stock cut clean off just above the junction, so as to direct the current of sap into the scion alone. Young Vines so inarched upon old stocks, as a rule, make vigorous canes the same season. Budding. This operation is performed in two or three ways ; but Mr. Stevens' plan seems to be the simplest and most suc- cessful, judging from the canes I have seen. Budding is performed on the ripe wood about the end of August or beginning of September. A slice of bark, equal in size to the bud to be attached, is cut off the Vine to be budded, at the desired place ; the bud is then sliced off, with a small portion of the wood and bark adhering, and placed on the seat prepared for it on the stock, slipping the lower end of the bud into a small slit in the bark, to keep it in its place. It should then be bandaged securely with matting, and protected with fine Moss to keep it moist until it has taken. Budding may be very advantageously performed on old baro Vines that have not broken regularly, so as to furnish them with spurs in a regular manner. J. S. (To be continued.) POTTING PINES. TnE potting of Pines should always be done with care, although it is far from being the most important operation connected with their cultivation. In many instances there is a great deal of unnecessary labour expended in such work. For example, it is a very common method to ram the soil abont the plants with a piece of wood as firmly as it can be beaten, and I have never been able to see the advantage of this ; for, after contrasting plants thus treated with others that were potted, by pressing the soil about the roots with the hand, like any ordinary plant, I have come to the conclusion that the practice should be dispensed with, although it dates back to the intro- duction of artificial Pine growing. With what object it was origi. nally adopted, I cannot say ; but I am convinced that those who still persist in the practice, do so because the attempt has never been made to do without the "pin" while potting. Some of the finest stocks of Pines in the country have been grown without it. The only pressure to which the soil used was ever subjected, was to give the pot a good shake after the plant and soil were placed in it, to settle the latter about the roots, and finish off by giving the whole a couple of firm knocks on the potting bench. The soil was not heavy and clayey, or less firming would have been needed, but somewhat light and well filled with fibre, as all Pine soil should be. I do not mean that the plants should be placed in the pots so loosely that they may be swayed to and fro with the hand ; but the soil can be filled in with sufficient firmness without ramming. I have sometimes heard it contended that firm potting saved frequent watering with many kinds of plants ; but I do not consider it beneficial to any kind of plant (except aquatics) to have the soil so stiff and retentive about the roots as to render watering unnecessary, when the plant in its natural state would require it. Plants are not alike in their requirements of water. These, in some, are regulated by the rapidity of their growth ; in others, by the texture of the leaves and the temperature in which they are grown ; but it is always a good healthy sign when a plant, of whatever kind, takes water freely. The most judicious mode of potting Pines is to have the soil and pots ready before disturbing the plants. The pots, if not new, must be clean and dry inside. Large bits of crock should be laid at the bottom, with smaller pieces on the top to the depth of 2 inches, and a layer of Moss over all, to prevent the soil from passing through and obstructing the drainage. The soil should consist of pure fibrous loam, to every barrow load of which should be added an 8-inch potf al of finely-ground bones. This, well mixed, is superior, for Pines, to any other manure. The soil should be heated t) 60°, and should not bo so dry as to crumble into dust when worked between the fingers, or so wet as to stick to them. When preparations have reached this stage the plants may be brought forward. Sometimes the leaves are not tied up when potting, for fear of putting any of them out of their growing form ; but there is always less risk of damage when they are gathered carefully together and tied neatly up with a piece Jan. 30, 1875.] THE GARDEN. 87 of strong matting, before taking them from the bed in which they have been growing. Small suckers, less than 1 foot high, should be placed in threes in a 6-inch pot, in a triangular position. The suckers should be pushed into the soil, which should be pressed well in with the finger and thumb, so as to leave an inch between the surface and the rim of the pot for water when needed. The bottom of the sucker should be placed midway between the surface and the drainage, so as to admit of rooting both upwards and downwards. The soil for these should not be rougher than will pass through an inch sieve. When the large plants are turned out of their pots, the old crocks must first be cleared away. The quantity of soil to be removed will depend on the state of the soil and roots. It is always safe to rub off all soil in which there are no roots ; and, if the soil be the least sour or sodden amongst them, it must be taken out also, as the outside roots will not remain healthy if they have first to pass through bad soil. The smallest of the leaves round the neck should be carefully abstracted for an inch or two up the stem ; when this is done, many small roots appear ready to start into the soil when placed in contact with it. It is not safe to clear the leaves further up the stem than where the pale brown colour ceases, which is found on all hardened stems. When plaoed in the pot the soil should cover the bare stem, or the benefit which they otherwise gain through the opera- tion is lost. If the old ball is large and entire, the finest of the soil should be worked down the side of it. J. Huir. GBAFTING TO TEST NEW VAKIETIES. Every fruit-grower should experiment constantly in the way of grafting, and thus prove for himself the value of different varieties of fruits. In his visits among his neighbours, whenever a good fruit is brought to his notice, he should at once procure a few scions, and wrap them up in moistened paper until he reaches home, when they should be consigned to a box in his cellar ; this box should contain damp Moss or saw-dust, and should be placed in a cool, moist corner, away from a furnace. In consigning the scions to this receptacle, great care must be taken that they are carefully covered all round with the Moss or saw-dust, to keep them from coming in contact with the air. Some kinds of fruits, such as Apples and Pears, graft much more readily than others. Stone fruits, such as Cherries, Peaches, and Plums, can be reproduced more satisfactorily by means of budding. The uninitiated in these matters should, therefore, turn their attention more particularly to the first, and after they have gained proficiency it will be time enough to try their hand at the latter. In testing new varieties, it is much more sensible to own a single limb on an old-established tree, than to purchase a young plant, and wait for several years to ascertain perhaps, after all one's trouble, that it is not at all suited to the locality. The largest limbs may be marked quite easily, by merely making a downward cut through the bark, for, say, an inch in length, having previously cut off the branch squarely and smoothly. The graft should not be cut wedge-shaped as in the customary cleft. graft system, but the cut must be all on one side, and inserted between the bark and wood of the limb, beneath the slit aforesaid. After tying it into place firmly, apply a good coating of grafting-wax or clay, and the operation is complete. Several grafts may thus be inserted round a large-sized limb, and these after " taking " will soon grow over and completely cover the end, so as to make a neat appearance afterwards. Occa- sionally, when we have a large number of varieties on one tree, the stronger kinds will smother the weaker, if care be not taken to keep the former within bounds ; and yet there are instances where as many as twenty and even thirty distinct varieties of Apples are growing on one tree, all in bearing condition, and the owners sweep away the premiums for the best and largest displays at every show where they exhibit. Old Pear trees, whose usefulness has passed away, may be made to produce bountiful crops of delicious fruit once more, by grafting over their tops with good kinds : indeed, there are plenty of such instances existing, to prove how very valuable grafting is, where good healthy stocks already exist. — Josiah Hoopes in " Tribune." MILDEW ON VINES. A damp stagnant atmosphere favours the development of mildew, which often attacks Vines in all stages of growth. Sometimes it appears on the first leaves that expand from the eye before the wood attached to it is well rooted. On Vines planted out, it appears on the wood, on the foliage, and on the berries. It generally seizes on the leaves first, and looks like a small speck of mould, similar to that which appears on decayed fruit. These specks very soon multiply in number and increase in size, until the entire leaf is speckled. Before the disease has reached this stage, the berries are generally affected as well, and in much the same way. It may be rubbed off them with the hand, but not before the damage is done. The part soon shows signs of a small brown spot, and decays.' When mildew extends to the wood, it remains on it until it is matured, and when ripened brown the spots of a dark colour are still visible upon the affected parts. Abundance of fresh dry warm air will stay the progress of, but not eradicate the disease. Liberal dustings with flowers of sulphur are the most effectual remedy, and, if applied m time, will save all. Machines are manufactured for distributing sulphur, and they do their work erHciently. Those who have not got them, may use a flower pot with a piece of thin gauze cloth tied over the mouth. On young Vines every leaf should be dusted all over every third day until the mildew has altogether disappeared. Other Vines must be treated in a similar way. Bunches affected should have the sulphur well shaken through them. As soon as there is a certainty of its being overcome, the sulphur should all be syringed from the leaves and fruit with clean water. Traces of it generally remain, however, and any Vines affected during the time of their growth should be well washed, and afterwards painted with sulphur when the pruning and cleaning is done. If care, in this respect, be not taken, it may appear again next season, when the Vines are started into growth, and the consequences may then be more serious. If young Vines are propagated from wood whioh has been affected with mildew, it appears on them immediately they begin to grow ; so that a good deal of caution is necessary wherever its presence is suspected. J. M. Small Apples the Best— As" Apples remarkable for size receive at the best public exhibitions the largest share of attention , it may not be amiss to say a word in favour of the varieties which produce fruit small in size, but of exquisite flavour. Let us take, for example, that well-known little Apple, Sam Young, which at this season of the year is a " real gem." Then, again, there is the Margil, Pitmaston Pine, and Powell's Russet, all of which are small, of the highest quality, and keep well. Indeed, I question whether there is another four to match, for late use, these three and Sam Young. Just before the fruit show held at South Kensington in November last, I made up my mind to show a collection of little Apples, and had samples of a large number of varieties selected. They were a lot of " little beauties," but, on looking them over, the thought struck me, "what use is there in sending these gems, the merit of which havesmall chance of being recognised by the judges ? " Therefore, after turning the matter over in my mind, I determined not to send them, and sub. Bequent events proved that I was right, for in the competitive classes the largest fruit was invariably placed first, and in some of the classes provided for specified varieties large and coarse examples were put before others well finished, although only a size or so smaller. I am not, mind you, complaining of the judging on that occasion, but simply mentioning a fact to show that it is no of use to exhibit these small kinds, although they are invaluable for the dessert. — John Scott, in "Gardeners' Magazine." Vicar of Winkfield Pear.— This Pear had high commendation from several cultivators, at the great Boston pomological meeting, as a good and very profitable sort, when properly managed. It usually over.bears ; but when two-thirds of the fruit is picked off early in the season, and it is left on the tree till the frost comes, it is greatly increased in size, colour and quality, and becomes a good eating Pear. A member from Connecticut stated that he had thus grown them weighing 16 oz. Haskell, of Massachusetts, said the best Pears he ever ate in February were of this sort, large, with a blush. Coit, of Connecticut, had fine cooking Pears in March, when thinned to one.quarter. Earle, of Illinois, said it had grown in favour with him since he had thinned it ; but in most localities in the West it had failed from the blight. — " Cultivator." NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE FRUIT GARDEN. Soil for Vine Borders : Alpha. No exact proportion of materials for making Vine borders can safely be given, as so much depends upon the quality of the materials to be used. The more clayey the loam, the more brick rubbish, or the like, is required to give porosity ; and the richer the loam, the less bones or other fertilising agent is required. If, to three parts of your sandy loam, you add one part of lime rubbish, and to every cubic yard half a bushel crushed bones you will probably secure a good result. Budding with Gooseberries and Currants.— In the "Revue Hortcole," M. Carriere describes a way of budding Gooseberries practised by MM. Croux, of Sceaux. Among other experiments of this nature, MM. Croux have trained a number of plants of Ribes palmata to a single stem, and budded the stock with Gooseberries and Currants of various colours and forma. The result, as may be imagined, has been both curious and ornamental. So complete was the natural conformity between the stock and the graft that it was hardly possible to tell the spot where the latter had been placed. 83 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 30, 1875. VENTILATION OF HOTHOUSES. It was with considerable astonishment that I read, in the pages of a contemporary, the other day, the following piece of advice to a correspondent :— " Ventilating hothouses : No ; there is no better or other way of opening the sashes than by sliding them down ! " This advice was accompanied by suggestions as to how the sliding process might be facili- tated by means of three " small castors " on each side of the sash. Had such advice been offered fifty years ago, it perhaps would not have surprised any one ; but that there should be any horticulturist still alive who is so benighted as to really suppose that there was " no better or other way " of ventilating than that under notice, is what I could not have believed, had I not evidence before my eyes. It is further suggested, that the sliding up and down of the sashes might be done by " simple machinery." I imagine that it would take a donkey- engine, and about as much gearing as would fit up a coal-shaft, to accomplish the feat in any ordinary range of houses. I never saw ventilation on the sliding-sash principle attempted to be worked by machinery, for the simple reason, I apprehend, that, getting quit of the old cumbrous narrow sash, with its accompanying deep and broad rafters, is a chief object with modern hothouse builders. No greater improvement has taken place in hothouse structures during the last thirty years, than the adoption of the rod and lever, and the continuous shutter, back and front, for ventilating purposes ; and none but gardeners who have managed both old and modern houses can realise the immense saving in labour effected in this way. Besides, the system has just set the garden architect at liberty in the matter of design ; for he was formerly compelled to adhere to one plan, in order to accommodate the sash with its ropes and pulleys. Now we can have a roof nearly all glass, and plenty of light, whereas, formerly, we had between the sashes about 9 inches of solid woodwork, which cast a shade over the whole interior of the house as soon as the suu passed the meridian. Many, and elaborate, have been the schemes promulgated from time to time to secure the " perfect aeration " of our hothouses. It is not so long since gardeners were amused regularly with the picture of a Vinery — called, I think, the " gardener's house," a fearfully and wonderfully made structure — in which innumerable air currents were represented by a shower of arrows that con- tinually and irresistably reminded me of the " November meteors ; " but it seems to have gone the way of all other such fanciful notions. As far as our fruit-houses are concerned, whether span-roofed or lcan-to, I do not see that we want any- thing superior to the usual top and bottom shutters above referred to. With these, and a coil or two of pipes close to the side openings, as are usually seen now, the most thorough ventilation can be given at any time, and the best results have been accomplished by such means. What more, therefore, do we want? The most elaborate system of ventilation will never enable a novice to grow Grapes, or anything else, better than he did before. Airing is like firing. It matters little what kind of boiler is employed, if some degree of intelligence is not exercised in using the coal-shovel and the damper. Airing is a matter of judgment, and will always be so. The great object of those who have troubled themselves on the subject of ventilation, seems to be the establishment of a free circulation of air throughout the whole structure. This is an important point no doubt, and in very lofty and wide houses, in which plants are placed upon the floor, at points distant from the roof or sides of the house, some special means of carrying the air in amongst them by air drains communicating with the external air, and opening at the desired points inside, if possible, under or near the hot-water pipes, should, and may be provided, in the same mmple manner as aeration is effected in some Vineries ; but in ordinary-sized lean-to or span-roofed houses, I have never seen the necessity of such provisions for dislodging stagnant air, which cannot possibly accumulate anywhere to a serious extent in such structures, if ventilation at the sides and top of the house is attended to. Distribute the heating apparatus equally over the floor of the house, and you may be sure that the equilibrium will be sufficiently disturbed to prevent air stagnating in any particular part of it. In a Vinery 20 or !10 feet wide, with hot-water pipes at the back, middle, and sides, and shutters at the sides and top of the house, the merest chink of air at each shutter will sweeten the atmosphere throughout in a few minutes. The air from the top ventilators dashes straight down to the floor, displacing or mingling with the warmer air in its descent, while the front air rushes along the floor until, heated in its progress, it ascends again and escapes at the apex of the roof, and in this way the air in every part is kept moving. In usual practice, there is frequently an unreasonable prejudice against opening the front ventilators. Many practitioners persist in opening the back or top shutters wide, day after day, in sunny weather during spring, and only the merest chink at the front or sides, and all this time with their eyes open to the fact, perhaps, that both in their Vineries and Peach-houses the fruit at the bottom of the rafters is about a month in advance of that at the top of the house — a disparity due entirely to the system of airing. It is surely right to admit air always at the warmest part of the house — in fact, I believe it is this theory, wrongly applied, that has led to the practice of opening the top shutters most. When, however, we see the fruit pro- gressing faster at the bottom than the top of the house, and the foliage broad and thin, we may be quite sure it is there that air in most abundance is required, and adapt our practice accordingly. For years this has been my practice in pits and houses, and I believe I could generally show crops, which, for regularity in ripening over the whole area, is all that could be desired. Perhaps it will be argued that a successional supply of fruit is afforded when the fruit ripens off later at the top. The only reply I can give to this is that the practice is injurious, and it is not good to depend upon an accident for a succession of fruit. The object in all plant structures should be to keep an even temperature throughout ; to avoid parching here and chills there; and this, I maintain, is more a matter of experience and attention than anything else. Chef. A Small Herb Garden. — There is poesy and savouriness in the very name. There may be likewise order and beauty in it. The most unsatisfactory things in gardens, especially small ones, are the herbs, scattered hither and thither all over the place, and time and patience are exhausted in hunting them up when required. Quite a useful feature might be made in every garden, however small, of the herbs, were they only brought together into one place and arranged in order. The best disposition for herbs is in beds. These may be from 2 to 4 feet wide, with foot alleys between them, and the length almost double, or, at the least, one-third more than the width. This arrangement in beds is the very essence of an herb garden. Of course in small gardens one entire bed will not be needed for any herb. In such cases several kinds may be easily grown together— such, for instance, as common and lemon Thyme, Pennyroyal, and Marjoram in one ; Fennel, Sage, and Tarragon in another ; and Basil, Summer Savoury, and Golden Purslane in another. Mint should always have a bed for itself, as Mint sauce is much in demand. Chervil, again, is much wanted in many families for salads, also Burnet, Hyssop, &o. These three are the semi-cordial herbs, Horehound for sore throats, Tansy for tea (not that anybody ever drinks it), Camomile for face-ache and stomach ailments, Rue for the gapes in poultry, Lad's Love, and any curious herbs that the villa gardener may have a fancy for. A bed should also be reserved for Angelica, used by those who know the luxury of its shoots candied in sugar, and for the growth of Borage, for flavouring claret cups in hot weather. Again, the herb garden is just the place for the orderly and systematio cultivation of all small salading such as Mustard and Cress, a constant succession of young Onions, a bed of Chives, the cultivation of Radishes throughout the season, and the growth of Rampion, Lettuces, Endive, &c. All this would find abundant furniture for a good many beds, and by changing these for the different products a nice succession of cropping might be maintained. Finally, several beds should be set aside for the high, class cultivation of Parsley —a plant sadly neglected in small gardens. Nothing is more useful in a household for flavouring or garnishing, and it is just as easy, on a right system, to have magnificent leaves, exquisitely curled and clean, because raised high above the ground by their strength and stature, as to have and use the small dirty leaves that have to do duty as Parsley in so many houses. Let the Parsley have a bed of rich deep soil — if a yard deep all the better ; sow a good curled kind thinly ; as soon as fairly up thin the plants to a foot apart, and let them grow away freely. That is the whole art of growing and using Parsley, and making it really one of the most beautiful plants in the garden. Sow in March, May, and July for suceession. If the garden of herbs is too small for the devotion of Jan. 30, 1875.] THE GARDEN. 89 one or more bedB to Parsley, sown at different seasons, then the whole herb garden might be fringed round with Parsley, and the garnishing and flavouring plants themselves be garnished with its beauty. No portion of any garden, large or small, not even exclud- ing that wholly devoted to flowers, will afford more pleasure than an herb garden well furnished and kept. There will always be some- thing growing and doing in it. — "Villa Gardener." THE FLOWER GARDEN. HAKDINESS OF BEGONIAS OP THE REX SECTION. Few plants have been greater favourites than the different varieties of the Eex section of Begonias, which have, however, dropped prematurely out of cultivation, or into places of third- rate importance. Few plants are more striking than Begonia Bex, Marshallii, Duchesse de Brabant, Queen Victoria, Comte de Lemminghe, with their endless hybrids of every shade and degree of variegation. But their rapid increase and great variety seemed to produce a reaction that has ended in driving most of the varieties of this section quite out of the seed catalogues. This is to be regretted, as few plants are more useful, easier cultivated, or enjoy more immunity from insects than Begonias. As to propagation, any portion of a leaf with a prominent vein is convertible into an independent plant, and any number can be raised from seeds. In fact it Begonia of the Rex section. was partly this facility of increase that led to the present reaction against Begonias of this class. They were multi- plied unduly in most collections, to the displacement of plants of more permanent value. They were also unfortunate, perhaps, in not finding at once their proper places, which were obviously baskets, brackets, and walls. Strikingly beautiful, as pot specimen Begonias are, most of them were more so when overhanging a basket, depending from a bracket, or clothing the bricks, or stones, and walls with beauty. In no position are they more useful or effective than as wall plants. The half-creeping stems and leaves look best when depending from, or displaying themselves close to a wall. Small semicircular pots of cement stone, or clinkers, may easily be made on or suspended from walls. These will suffice to grow variegated Begonias in for years. The object is not single specimens, but success- fully well-formed, properly-shaped leaves, the smaller in size the better. The cramping of some of the varieties into small root spaces alters, and, for this purpose, improves their character. The stems become much shorter, the leaves smaller, and, of course, there is room for more in number. In corners, and in recesses, at the ends, or tinder stages, larger places may be found to take full-sized plants. It is astonishing how well these Begonias grow and colour in shady places. They are equally beautiful grown against a back wall as in full sunshine, the white of some of the varieties being even more silvery, and the green more verdant in shady places than in exposed ones. Even the reddish-leaved varieties have been found to keep their colour well in the shade ; and some of those delicate hardy strains in the way of Comte de Lemminghe, that seem as if their surfaces were sprinkled over with gold-dust, put on a higher beauty in the shade. I now come to the last and most impor- tant point of all. Most of these variegated Begonias have been reckoned and treated as stove-plants ; doubtless, too, they will live and flourish in a high temperature ; but so they also will in a low one. In the coolest greenhouses they may be grown well and in safety. For many years past, a back wall of a flower passage or verandah has been furnished with these variegated Begonias in home-made cement pots, after the pattern of the Fern bricks made by different firms. In winter the thermometer has frequently been down to 30° (within the last month it has been as low as 20°), and yet the Begonias show no sign of injury. Part of the passage has an opaque top, and front lights are furnished with plants, and, in fact, there is a large proportion of wall. The light is, consequently, much intercepted, yet these Begonias, in spite of the shade and the cold, continue to thrive, and do their part well in covering the bare wall. Some years ago we tried bedding out Begonia Rex, Marshallii, and others, and tried 500 plants in a, ribbon border. They were not satisfactory, and the experi- ments were not repeated. They suffered, however, from an excess of heat, not cold. The sun burnt them brown. Since then I have frequently seen plants in sheltered positions in the open air looking pictures of health and beauty ; but though they will never be popular as bedding nor even as sub- tropical plants, they ought not to be overlooked where plants suitable for the furnishing of conservatories and greenhouses and other shady and covered places, are in demand. During winter, and in a temperature under 40°, variegated Begonias should be kept rather dry and in a semi- dormant state. The object of low temperatures should be to conserve the old, not to develop new beauty. Doubtless young plauts in full growth, taken from the plant-stove and placed in such temperatures as are here indicated, would be killed outright, thus adding another proof of the fact, which cannot be too often repeated, that hardiness is a matter of condition, more, even, than of constitution or species. No plant can be called altogether hardy when in full growth. Take the Oak in June and expose it to 10° of frost, and you will kill its young growth, though it had stood bravely out against zero only four months previously ; and so in degree with all plants. If you want them to be hardy, secure a strong habit and well-ripened wood and leaves, and you make them so. Reverse these conditions, and the same amount of frost will kill them at once. D. T. Fish. BEDDING PLANTS IN THE PARC MONCEAU. One of the most beautiful and instructive gardens about Paris (says a friend of mine, writing from the Jardin des Plautes) is the little Pare Monceau near the Arc de Triomphe. Its beauty and tasteful arrangement, the perfect order in which it is always kept, and the great variety of choice plants which it contains, make it a delightful resort for Parisians, bnt especially for those interested in the skilful disposition of bedding plants. I have, therefore, thought that a list of the plants used for embellishing the grounds in 1874 might be of interest to English gardeners. The open places about the shrubberies were given up to such ornamental plants as harmonised best with the adjacent foliage, such as Solanums, Datura arborea, Tagetes, Begonia Evansiana, Iberis umbellata, Dahlias, especially the lili- putian varieties, Antirrhinums, Dianthus plumarius, and D. barbatus, Petunias, Abutilon, varieties with spotted leaves, as A. Thomsonii, A. erectum, A. striatum, &c. There were also many fine Heliotropes and many bright coloured perennial Phloxes, Fuchsias, &c. Judiciously interspersed among the unusually large and effective beds of Negundo fraxinifolia variegata were Roses, Beta purpurea, Amar- antus salicifolius, Tritoma Uvaria, Antirrhinums, and other plants, arranged with much skill, and in a manner most pleasing to the eye ; and these, again, were surrounded by ribbons of scarlet Pelar- goniums ; indeed, most of the shrubberies were edged with some such plants as Pelargoniums, Sedums, Lamium maculatum,Chrysan. themum grandiflorum and frutescens, Veronica Andersonii or_ V. Lindleyana, Iberis, Lobelia speciosa, and others. Pelargonium peltatum and coccineum did not harmonise well, I think, in this way, and Fuchsia corymbiflora would have looked better in a single row. I would not recommend the ribbon.border style, as the even lines always destroy, to a great extent, the otherwise perfect appearance 90 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 30, 187S. of the shrubbery margins, nor do I think it advisable, when planting the shrubberies, to make the choice of shrubs subservient to that of flowers when endeavouring to produce a contrast to or rather to suit these cordons. For example, all the marginal plants consist of such species as Euonymus japonicus. Perhaps these ribbons were exten- sively used in order to provide substitutes for tropical or sub-tropical plants, which everywhere find a place on the lawns. There were grown as isolated individuals such plants as Ferula, Bambusa, Eheum Emodi, tall Dracaenas, Bcehmerias, Acanthus lusitanicus, Strelitzia angnsta, Gyneriums, Lycopersicnm esculentum, Phyto- lacca decandra, Palms, Solannm marginatum, Amorphophallus, Struthiopteris germanica, Polygonum Sieboldii. Amongst a number of Deodars, fine Agaves were planted. Beds were formed of Cineraria platanifolia, Gnaphalium lanatum, Begonia viridifolia, B. Bex, and others in a carpet of Selaginella denticulata. In the beds, mixed according to size and taste, were the following : — Ficus elastica, Colocasia, Cuphea platycentra, Phormium tenax, Wigaudias, and Petunias; while Dahlias with variegated foliage, white Lantanas, Erythrinas, and Coleus of different varieties brightened the view. Saccharum officinarum was set in the centres of beds, with plants of slower habits around it, such as Centaureas and Lobelias, Erythrina, Pelargonium peltatum, with Iresine Lindeni and Herbstii; Coccoloba, Diervilla, with scarlet and other Pelargoniums, Koniga maritima, flowering Lobelias and Begonias, surrounded by Erigeron mucronatus. Magnolia grandiflora, a fine specimen, was surrounded by tall Ficus elastica, so as to form a beautiful pyramid; Pelargoniums, Musa Cavendishii, and Coleuses were found in another bed. Cereus peruvianus monstrosus and Cuphea platycentra were mingled with Begonia nitida, and Begonias having scarlet flowers with Koniga variegata. Eicinns, Tagetes,' Erythrinas, and white variegated kinds of Pelar- goniums, Aralia japonica, Gnaphaliums, Cyperus alternifolius and Begonia Evansiana, Jacksoni, Warscewiczii ; double Heliotropes were mixed with double Portulaca, Cannas, Centaureas, and red and white flowered Verbenas. There were also beds with tree and other Ferns and Aroids, Aspidistras, Palms, Musa Ensete, with Sednms of various kinds. A very fine specimen of rock- work found a place there, the fountain conuected with which is very well constructed. The plants enumerated are those which seem to thrive best in the open air in Paris, and can be shown to the greatest advantage if well arranged. A common mistake among flower gardeners is to try to arrange their bedding plants in a formal manner, which reminds one of a clipped hedge. In my opinion no style is better or more graceful than that which gives plants room to grow, and allows each to display to advantage its own peculiar habit. John Brennan. Loughgall. NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE FLOWER GARDEN. Gladiolus pracox— This pretty little early pink-flowered Gladiolus has been blooming with ua here ever since December. A potful of it, assorted with such plants as Triteleia and Iris reticulata, has a strikingly pretty appear- ance.—T. S. Waeb, Tottenham. A Poetical Tribute to the Rose.— A German lady, Countess Prokesch", has collected into a volume all the poems which could be gathered together from the works of German poets in honour of the Rose. It is said that royalty figures largely in this poetic Rose garden. Campanula Barrelieri, Ferula nobilis.and Sparaxis.— Of these, the first seems quito uninjured by the severe frost (20° here). The same may be said of Ferula nobilis and Sparaxis pulcherrima. The first is a grand Fennel, the foliage of which had turned a lovely orange-yellow when I saw it at Messrs. Backhouse's nursery at York in September. The Sparaxis pulcherrima was in fine bloom there, as was also its still more beautiful relation Sparaxis pulcher- rima atro-purpurea, a bell-shaped flower of deep mulberry, on long hair-like stalks 4 or 6 feet high. My soil is a heavy clay, but we'll manured.— Fbaijk Miles, Bingham, Notts. Primula altaica (syn. grandiflora).— This is flowering well here on a south bank, and is, to my mind, lovelier than any other Primula, hardy or otherwise. In colour it is deep mauve, and larger than any other Primrose. Cross the Primroso with the deep claret Primula auricul£eflora and the result will be a rich variety of deep violet colour. I am anxiously waiting for a large number of Primroses, some crossed by Mr. Dean, of Ealing, but the majority crossed and raised by myself. Primrose seed, which should be gathered and sown as soon as it is ripe, is sometimes a long time germinating ; it is, therefore, best to sow it in pans, and prick out the larger plants.— Fbank Miles. ° * A Bouquet of Hardy FlowerB.— I send you a few flowers gathered out-of- doors to show how warm and mild it is here ; wo have not had much severe weather. The thermometer never fell to 20° ; we had but one fall of snow, which averaged 0 inches in depth ; it remained with us about four days, and on the approach of the New Year disappeared in one night. Since then the weather has been wet and warm, and trees and herbs are filling their buds fast. I send Garrya elliptica (the male plant of which is one of the most distinct of winter-flowenng shrubs), Lonicera fragrantissima, Berberis japonica, Snow- drops, Pyrus japonica, Jasmiuum nudiflorum, and the common yellow Aconite (which is generally considered the earliest of all hardy flowers), Daphne nybnda, D. Pontica, and Arabia verna, the latter a little gem which I found growing on the Grampian Hills fifty-five years ago and have grown it ever Since.— J. Scon, Crcxkerne, Sommetthii-e. THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. By THOMAS BAINES. Dressing Strawberry Beds.— If these have not yet received their winter dressing, as advised at the close of the year, they should be attended to forthwith when the weather is open. If the soil is of a heavy and retentive nature, it is better to fork over the ground a few inches deep between the rows, without much disturbing the roots, as, if this be not done on such soils, it gets so much solidified by trampling in gathering the fruit that the rains run off instead of penetrating ; and if weeds have been allowed to grow to any extent, it is necessary to dispose of them by digging in, for, if hoed up and raked off, so much soil is removed in the operation as to injure the ground and leave the roots bare ; bat where cleanly cultivation is followed up, and weeds kept down, except in slightly loosening the surface with the object of permitting the rains to pass through, the less the ground among Strawberries is dug the better. Where this shallow turning up is necessary, the spade should never be used, but only the fork. In light soils the hoe is all that is required to destroy weeds, which should be cut off whilst small, and never allowed to get large and numerous, necessitating their removal with the consequent loss of soil that adheres to them, more or less, according as the surface is dry or otherwise. The Jerusalem Artichoke. — This, with some, is a favourite vegetable. It gives variety through the winter season, when there is not a wide area of choice. It will succeed where most other vegetables will not grow. To the reputation it thus has may be attributed the little attention it] receives, and the consequent unsatisfactory Btate in which it is too often seen. Although some- what of a surface-rooting plant, it likes a moderately deep well, prepared soil ; there is no necessity, nor is it advisable, to select any situation in the vegetable ground for this Artichoke which might be better occupied by something else, yet it should not be planted where the soil is impoverished by the roots of trees or overshadowed by their branches. Dig the ground well, and, if poor, give it a moderate dressing of manure, mixing it well with the soil. Pieces of the tubers about as large as moderate-sized Kidney Potatoes should be planted with a dibber about the beginning of March, when the weather is open, in rows 12 inches apart, with 2 feet between the rows. Cover the plants with about 4 inches of soil ; through the spring remove any weeds that make their appearance. When the plants get fairly into growth their dense habit of growth will prevent anything in the shape of annual weeds growing amongst them. Spring1 Cabbages. — If there is an insufficiency of spring Cabbages already planted out, more may be planted from the reserve bed, where they were pricked out in the autumn, and which should always exist to supply blanks that occur through the attacks of slugs or other causes. As the ground is cleared from Savoys and Brussels Sprouts, let the old stools be removed, and the place they have occupied dug, always performing this operation — even when going but a single spit deep — well, by getting as deep as the spade or fork will reach. If the ground requires trenohing, which it does once in three years, bury the stools and leaves in the bottom. It is a good way to have a rough plan of every vegetable garden, with the crops of the preceding year. This takes very little time to prepare, and is of great assistance in regulating the rotation of cropping, which it is always advisable to carry out. Rotation of Crops. — Never crop the ground two seasons running with either the same species of vegetable, or with any similar in their habit by being surface or deep rooters. Surface-rooting plants, like all the Brassicas, including Cabbages, Cauliflowers, or Broccoli, are the best to follow such deep-rooting crops as Onions or Broad Beans ; plant Lettuce after Celery, and also Peas, for, although the latter are deep-rooted plants, the Celery is an excellent preparatory crop for them, as it is for other vegetables. Potatoes do well upon ground that has grown Strawberries, especially if they were dug up as soon as the fruit was ripe and a crop of autumn Turnips taken from it. Strawberries prepare the ground for root, crops better than anything else grown in the kitchen garden. If a rough plan such as I have alluded to has been prepared and marked whilst the crops are growing, it shows at once, even after the ground is cleared and dug, how to go on with this changing of crops, which it is well to carry out. Where the soil of a garden happens to be too heavy and retentive, it may be much improved, if in a neighbourhood where either pit or river-sand can be had cheaply and in sufficient quantities; a dressing of 6 inches will not be too much, digging it in one spit deep and mixing it well through the soil. Even fine-sifted ashes will improve the texture of such land if applied. The winter season, when the ground is vacant, is the best time for getting it in. Where the soil, on the other hand, is too light and sandy, it is even more necessary to find a remedy, for very light land is ill- Jas. 30, 1875.] THE GARDEN. 91 adapted for summer vegetable growing. It can, however, be improved by the application of marl or clay. The former is the best if obtainable, and it frequently happens that in cutting deep drains it can be got at a moderate cost. Good yellow clay is not a bad substitute for marl ; whichever is used, it may with advantage be put on from 4 to 6 inches thick, but must not be dug in the ground in a raw adhesive state ; the present is a good time for applying it to the surface of land that has not to be cropped until late in the spring, so as to give it the benefit of the weather. March is the best month for pulverising it ; it may be put on between the rows of Cabbage plants or on ground occupied with spring Broccoli ; 2 or 3 inches placed between the rows of Strawberries on light land will be of the greatest service to them ; in short, a dressing of this can be given with very great advantage, either to naturally light gardens or to such as are getting so through the long continued application of stable manure and vegetable matter. In cold, late, exposed situations, not suited for early sowing of Peas in the open ground, a fortnight may be gained by sowing them in a cold Vinery, pit, or frame. Nothing is better than the method of using strips of turf 6 inches wide and about 4 inches in thickness, laid the grassy-side down on borders. Cut a channel down the centre of the turf a couple of inches deep ; in this sow the Peas, covering them with fine soil. They will soon begin to grow, the boards pre. venting their roots descending into the floor of the house or pit ; and, when 6 inches high, they can in March be planted in shallow trenches by merely slipping the whole off the boards. If turf is not to be had readily, boards slightly nailed together so as to form a sort of shallow gutter will answer the purpose, or common iron gutterings in lengths, or horse-shoe drain-tiles can be used. In planting, it is only necessary to slip the whole plants and soil entire into the trenches opened for them. Some Celery seed should also be sown in a little heat in pans or boxes filled with fine sifted sandy soil, from which the plants can be pricked out as soon as large enough for handling withont injuring their roots, wherein, if the soil in which the seed is sown is lumpy and strong, the roots must necessarily get much broken in moving, which checks the plants, a circumstance that should not occur in the cultivation of this vegetable. Lawns. — Keep wormcasts regularly swept from lawns, and roll the Grass. For this purpose there is nothing so good as a wooden roller : it should be made of Oak or Elm, and ought to be about 12 inches in diameter and 4 feet in breadth. This will not only keep the surface smooth as well as an iron roller, but it will do away with the necessity of much sweeping ; and the labour of rolling with this wooden implement is so much less than with an iron one, that it will not occupy more than half the time. Gravel Walks. — Nothing adds more to the comfort, as well as the appearance, of a garden than good walks ; but, to have these, they must not only be composed of suitable materials, but they must be well made — that is, in the first construction they must be thoroughly drained, properly formed, both as regards the surface and foundations, and the materials of which they are made rightly placed. To make a walk 5 or 6 feet in width, the ground should be excavated to a depth of 12 inches, 2 inches lower at the sides than in the middle ; on each side must be a drain, the pipes that form which should be sufficiently large in proportion to the length of the walk, so as to carry off the surface-water in heavy storms, and with a suffi- cient number of eyes to prevent an accumulation of water on the surface of the walk. A sufficiency of these eyes in walks is more the exception than the rule, through which cause the gravel becomes displaced every time a heavy thunder-shower occurs. In the bottom of the walk place 4 inches of broken bricks, stone-rubble, or ballast — whichever can be easiest obtained ; ram this quite solid, on it put on 2 or 3 inches of coarse gravel, and fill up with fine, making the centre of the walk a couple of inches higherthan the sides and keeping the grids over the eyes a couple of inches lower, with the surface gradually falling to them ; this not only enables the water to rnn freely into them, but prevents their standing up too high to take it when the surface of the walk gets lowered by gradual wear. A walk so made, if the gravel is good, will always be dry, and in condition to walk upon with comfort, and free from the accumulation of Moss that exists upon walks that are not properly drained. Where walks require re-gravelling, it should be done at once, so that the new gravel may get properly set before the dry weather sets in ; this saves an immense amount of labour in rolling, and renders them com- fortable to walk upon during the ensuing summer. Greenhouses and Pits — Introduce a few more bulbs into the stove, or warm pit, as also flowering Shrubs, such as Deutzia gracilis, double Prunus, Kalmias, and small Rhododendrons, Lily of the Valley, and also a plant or two of Azalea ; the white sorts are the most useful for forcing, being more esteemed for cutting. The small purple A. amoena is very useful for this purpose, as well as the yellow-flowered Cytisus racemosus, which will come into bloom with little heat. If there have been prepared early in the autumn a few pots of the always acceptable Mignonette, a little warmth will assist its flowers to open. Keep these plants near the glass, so that they do not become drawn, and tie them out neatly to a few thin sticks. Go over the plants in the greenhouse every week, removing all decayed leaves and washing the pots when necessary, so as to remove the green mould. Attend to watering, and look over the whole 'stock sufficiently often to see that nothing suffers through getting too dry. Lilies that are pushing through the soil must now have more water given them. Even when not apparent above the surface, the soil must not be allowed to become quite dry, as the roots are now on the move and require water. Cuttings of Verbenas and Fuchsias should now be put in to strike. They will root any- where where they can receive a little heat under a bell-glass in sandy soil. Old Fuchsias, that have been dried off in the autumn, may now be pruned. The branches should be cut well in, and reduced considerably in height. They may then at once be placed in heat, and, as soon as they have pushed half-an-inch of growth, may be shook out and re-potted. Soil, if not under cover for the general potting of greenhouse plants, should be placed in a dry open shed, where it will receive plenty of air ; lay it as open as possible for this purpose, and occasionally turn it over. Sand, also, should be placed where it will dry. TREES AND SHRUBS. MAGNOLIAS. It is rather early, perhaps, in the season to think about gardening ; still, I have been reckoning up the weeks which must pass before the first flowers of spring appear. First will come Snowdrops, Crocus, and similar low-growing plants, then the pink Mezereon and golden Forsythia, followed, a few days later, by the showy Chinese Magnolias. This reminds me that neither the native nor exotic species of the Magnolia are half so plentiful, either in suburban or country grounds, as their merits deserve. Perhaps one barrier to their more extensive culture has been the high price charged by our nurserymen for trees of a suitable size for transplanting ; but this in a measure is being obviated by the increase in numbers of propagators, which tends to competition and the lowering of prices. Another obstacle to their culture is the great care required to make the trees live when transplanted ; not that the operation is so very difficult, but a certain amount and a certain kind of care is necessary to success. The roots must never be allowed to become dry or in the least shrivelled during the time of removal ; neither will it answer to puddle the roots with clay, as frequently practised on more hard- wooded kinds of trees. Then, again, it is not safe to plant Magnolias in the autumn, especially in cold climates, where the wounds made on the soft spongy roots are exposed to cold wet earth during a long winter. But, if carefully dug, and as carefully packed in Moss, or well wrapped in some similar material while being transported from the nursery to the place where they are to be set out, followed by ordinary good care in planting, there is very little danger of Magnolias dying. Desirable Species and Varieties. The Chinese species are, as a class, far more showy than the American, although the trees do not grow as large as some of the natives. Magnolia conspicua is one of the very best of the Chinese species, its flowers being large, pure white, and appear before the leaves in spring, making a grand show at a season when one is likely to admire such sights more than at any other. Next to this I would place M. soulangeana, which is said to be a hybrid of this and the next. Its flowers are white, tinged or striped with purple, and appear at the same time as the conspicua. M. purpurea is another of the same origin ; but the flowers are purple on the outside and nearly white within, but appear a little later than the first, and before the leaves are fully expanded. A variety of this tree, known as M. Norbertiana, has deep purple flowers ; otherwise, it is very similar to its parent. Lenne is a comparatively new sort, with quite large reddish flowers, which promises to be of considerable value. There are also several other Chinese varieties ; but those mentioned above are the best I have seen. Among American species, M. grandiflora, of the Southern 92 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 30, 1875. States, is a superb evergreen tree, and frequently seen in gardens in the south of England, and in many parts of tempe- rate Europe. M. acuminata, better known as the Cucumber tree, grows to a tall handsome tree ; and, being a native of the Northern States, it is quite hardy. The flowers are about 3 inches broad, and of a pale yellowish colour, appearing late in spring. It is an elegant rapid-growing ornamental tree, readily propagated from seed, and is quite abundant in our nurseries. M. cordata, or yellow-flowered, is a native of theSouthern States ; but is quite hardy, even in New England. It is alow-growing tree, and not particularly desirable, except as a variety in extensive grounds. M.macrophylla, or the great-leaved Magnolia, is not perfectly hardy in the extreme Northern States, but succeeds very well in the Middle States. The branches are very coarse and few in number ; the wood is also quite brittle, consequently, when the trees become large, they are liable to be injured by the wind unless growing in a somewhat protected position. The flowers are white and very large, usually from 10 to 12 inches in diameter. A noble, tropical-looking tree, and well worthy of culture. M. umbrella, or Umbrella Magnolia, also called M. tripetala, or three-petalled, is a tree somewhat like the last, but the leaves and flowers are smaller. The tree is also more hardy, and grows a little taller, but does not quite equal the next in height. M. Eraseri, sometimes called M. auriculata, or the ear-leaved MagDolia, is quite a handsome tree, and hardy as any of the species found in the Middle States. Trees suitable for planting out of any and all of these kinds, can be had at our nurseries, and also the sweetest scented, and, I had almost said, best of all, the M. glauca, or small sweet-scented Magnolia, also known as Sweet Bay. Common as this shrub or small tree is in the swamps of some of our Northern States, it is far too seldom seen under cultivation. It is my first choice among the Magnolias, and I should try to find a place for " just one more " if it came in my way. The leaves are oblong, deep green above, and whitish beneath, remaining on the plants nearly the entire winter. Flowers are about 2 inches in diameter, pure white, and deliriously fragrant. Plants taken from the swamps are not likely to die if severely pruned at the time of removal.— " Moore's Rural New Yorker." [The last-named species, so highly praised here, thrives freely in England, and is unsurpassed among our flowering shrubs. The specimens at Knowle Park have attained to the dignity of low-spreading trees, and bear numbers of large and fragrant flowers.] NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON TREES AND SHRUBS. Starch from Horse Chestnuts.— A patent was granted in the year 1796 to Lord William Murray tor his discovery of a method of extracting starch from Horse Chestnuts, and a paste or size has been made from them which is pre- ferred by bookbinders, shoemakers, and paperhangers to that made from wheaten flour. The Almond Peach (Amygdalus g-randiflora).— This is a vigorous little tree with branches that are far-spreading and slightly incurved, forming a rounded head. In February and March it produces flowers of a very beautiful rose colour, and large sub-spherical fruit which, however, possesses scarcely any flavour. It is (says M. Carriore in " Revuo Horticole ") the Almond Peach of some horticulturists, a curious and ornamental form, and, like many others among the Amygdali, an intermediate type. Preservation of 'Wood.— According to Ilatzfiekl, sulphate of copper gives imperfect and variable results as regards the preservation of wood, because of its solubility in water ; and creosote docs not fulfil all the necessary conditions, on account of its scarcity and high price. lie proposes ferrous acid-tannato. This compound, which is soluble, is transformed under the influence of air into an insoluble salt of an intense black colour ; it is deposited in the cells of the wood in a Bolid state, and produces a sort of petrifaction which augments the durability resulting from the action of tannic acid alone. Olive Growing— In answer to your correspondent "G. R. H." (see p. 42), allow me to say that the best way known here of growing Olive trees is to propagate them by means of cutting fresh bits of wood, with the bark on them, from old clumps at the roots of these trees, something after the manner of cutting up Potatoes for seeding. These bits of wood must bo placed in pots and well cared for, till the plant is a year or two of age. The soil in these pots Bhould be moderately rich, and kept moist. Cultivators here usually bury the pots till the plant is well started in growth. When the stem is about the thickness of a finger, the plant should be set out in the place it is to occupy. The soil should be neither too rich nor too poor, and should be well drained. The Olive requires hilly country, wlioro it can have plenty of exposure, and where the climate is dry and temperate, like that of Tuscany. The manure used for it should consist of well-rotted horso droppings, old woollen rags, and chips of leather. The tree will bear a few berries when four or five years old, but the full crop is not produced till tho age of twenty years or so has been attained. The plants should be trained like Lemon trees, i.e., open in the centre, or cup-shaped.— Peestoit Powebs, Florence. OLD TREES AT FULHAM PALACE. Among the materials at our disposal for the embellishment of residences, it has been rightly said, that none are at once so highly ornamental, so indispensable, and so easily dealt with as trees. Buildings, even unsightly in appearance, by means of judicious planting, may often be made to look highly interesting, provided trees suitable to the situation are selected and properly planted. Architects often plant such surround- ings badly, owing to a want of knowledge of the materials with which they have to deal, the proportions they will attain, and the ultimate effect they will produce, when fully grown. Pulham Palace, as will be seen by our illustration, is a plain unpretentious building ; nevertheless, for its deficiencies in the way of architectural embellishment, we have ample com- pensation in the fine trees by which it is surrounded. On the left of the house is a venerable Cork tree, which for centuries has withstood the tear and wear of time, the imprint of which is strongly impressed on its great trunk, from which, at least one aged arm has been separated, and, as will be seen, has been used as a support for the main body of the tree. This tree was planted about the end of the sixteenth century, most probably by Bishop Compton, whose skill as a planter, and perseverance as an intro- ducer of American trees, are well-known. The tree on the right which has been planted as a companion to the old Cork tree, is the Robinia or False Acacia, of the great value of whose wood Cobbett long ago wrote in such extra- vagant terms. No place in England contains so many full-grown Virginian trees as Fulham Palace, and most of them have been raised from seeds sent to this country by the missionaries who first went to North America in Bishop Compton's time. The spot on which these men first preached to the native Indians near Richmond, in Virginia, is now the site of a mansion, in front of which are two trees of the White Oak (Quercus alba), placed so as to balance each other, just like the two trees at Fulham, as shown in the illustration. The trunk of one of these Oaks I measured, and found it to be, at 3 feet from the ground, 21 feet in circumference ; the other was 18 feet in circumference. These trees cover so much space, that if they had been planted anywhere near the building, they must have been removed long before full beauty had been reached. At Fulham, we get a notion of the colossal dimensions which these American trees acquire when fully grown, and therefore intending planters who have not seen them in their native country, as I have done, will do well to inspect them before commencing operations, especially such as have to plant in the neighbour- hood of buildings. At Fulham, too, may be seen a flat piece of ground, consisting of some 30 acres, rendered interesting wholly by trees; by their aid objectionable features are shut out, and others of a suitable character are brought into view, and altogether as much variety is thus secured as is to be found in the most extensive estate or domain in the country. Conspicuous among the trees employed for this purpose may be named a Hickory, which has a trunk 16 feet in circum- ference, and 15 feet in height, clear of branches. It then divides into two huge limbs, each 80 feet in height. The Hickory becomes exceedingly beautiful in autumn ; the leaves, which during summer are of a bright airy green, turn yellow as the season advances, and hang upon the tree for a month or six weeks after the change takes place. No tree, indeed, even in its native country, is more strikingly beautiful in the fall than this, especially when associated with Liquidamber and scarlet Oaks or silver Maples — all trees remarkable for fine colours. Of the black Walnut, which is one of the most useful of American trees, and one which is now becoming scarce even in Virginia, so much is its timber sought after, there are here fine specimens, as well as of American Oaks, especially the white one, a tree of which measures, at 3 feet from the ground, 12 feet in circumference; the wood of this Oak is almost as elastic and valuable as that of the Hickory, and, indeed, the white Oak is considered to be one of the very best of American timber trees. Of the Tulip tree, one of the best specimens in the country stands on the lawn at Fulham, and among trees possessing beauty of another kind may be named the Gleditschia triacanthos, or Honey Locust, so named on account of the sweet pods which it bears ; the spines of this, Jan. SO, 1875.] THE GAEDEN. 93 3 W £ g w a CO t" 1-3 a t-i w p- K ►d t" r< Jan. 30, 1875.] THE GAEDEN. 95 which aro long and formidable, are associated with foliage almost as light and pretty as that of the Sensitive plant. Of the Judas tree there is here a fine standard, and also a grand old Cedar of Lebanon, from a seat beneath which a pretty little flower garden is overlooked. These, and many other trees, too numerous to mention, are set in an irregular frame- work of splendid Elms, both in the adjoining park and on the banks of the Thames. Vistas have of late years been cut through the boundary line, so as to bring in occasional glimpses of the Thames, and in this way increased interest has been given to the place. Around the whole of the ornamental department is a well kept gravel walk — tortuous here, straight there, but so managed as to give the visitor to the grounds an idea of extent considerably beyond that which they actually possess. The lawn boundary has been framed by a master hand — here bold and projecting, there deep and shadowy ; at one point glowing with colour, at another depending for beauty on leafage only, and the whole, when in full summer beauty, forming one of the most charming pictures to be found anywhere. Joseph Newtqn. LARGE BOILERS AND FURNACES BETTER THAN SMALL ONES. I can fully corroborate all that Mr. Fish says (see p. 58) with regard to the wisdom and economy of having plenty of boiler power in proportion to the amount of heating required. The first outlay in putting in a larger-sized boiler is very soon saved in fuel. A small boiler has not the capacity for taking the same amount of heat from a given amount of coal that a larger one has. The same rule more than holds good in reference to the amount of piping that is laid in the house to be heated. I had a very striking example of this in these gardens this winter, with the thermometer repeatedly near zero ; the only boiler that required to be at all driven to do its work (the whole of the boilers being castings from one mould, and circum- stanced alike in all respects) is the one with by far the least piping attached to it — the reason of this being that the houses it heats have less piping in them than the others, and had to be made much hotter in consequence. Ample boiler power and ample piping are the great secrets of economical heating. Regarding the levels at which boilers should be fixed in relation to the pipes, I have proved that if the return opening into the boiler is below any other portion of the pipes to be heated, it does not matter if the flow opening is above the body of the pipes. One of the most efficient heating apparatuses I ever worked had the flow pipe starting down hill immediately it left the boiler, but at no part did the water descendbelow the return opening into the boiler. Looking at the law of hot-water circulation, I should say that such an ari'ange- ment was sound, for, immediately the water leaves the boiler, it begins to part with its heat ; cools, and becomes of a greater specific gravity ; and surely, from that fact, its natural vent is down hill, not up. And I conceive it unnecessary expense to excavate deeply into the ground for the mere sake of getting "a good rise from the boiler," as is so often spoken of. I can endorse what Mr. Fish says about the undesireableness and waste of small furnaces. In arrangements recently carried out here, I have had furnaces made 19 inches deep, and 21 inches wide. The boilers form the furnaces, the said boilers being a combination of the saddle and cruciform, and are 6 feet long. A small furnace requires a smart firing draft, to give the same amount of heat that a larger body of coal gives with less of a draft. For, with a large body of hot glowing coal, the doors and dampers can be so regulated as to cause a red mass of fuel to lie for hours in a condition to give off a powerful heat. A larger body of fire requires to be less often fed, and the fire is more constantly " red hot ; " whereas a small furnace requires to be going at high pressure, and be often fed, and the waste of coal and heat is greater. The larger furnace can be left a longer time safely without attendance. I cannot agree with Mr. Fish in saying that the shape of the boiler is of less moment than its size. I think the shape of a boiler important, and those boilers that give most heating surface in direct contact with the fire I have always found to be the most powerful. The more of a boiler that is licked with flame, and against which most glowing red coal rests, must surely be the best, and shape has more to do with this, I think, than size. Not an atom of brick should form any part of the furnace or fire-place of a boiler. It should be water above, below, and at the sides ; aud, besides, a large boiler-surface in direct contact with the fire, the draught should traverse about every inch of the boiler two or three times before it is allowed to escape with such an enormous amount of heat into the flue or chimney. D. Thomson. Drumlanrig Gardens. Your correspondent, Mr. D. T. Fish, has called attention to a very important matter, for the late severe weather has brought home to most of us the necessity and great economy of having boilers of suffi- cient power to cope with such seasons without much extra strain. Even with these it is often lamentable to see the great waste that takes place through unskilful stokiDg. This is almost as important a matter as having efficient boilers ; for it is easy to get the same amount of heat in the pipes with mnch less fuel than is generally used, if the stoking be conducted with a little more thought and skill. It is but too common a practice with those in charge of fires to have ashpit-doors and damper wide open, thus admitting a large body of cold air through the furnace that carries the heat up the shaft with a rush. If this damper were used, as it should be, to keep the heat playing slowly over the surface of the boiler, much waste would be avoided. It frequently happens that fires are allowed to get too low, and then twice as much fuel is thrown on as is necessary. This leads to the ashpit-door and damper being thrown open to quicken combustion, with the results I have mentioned. With some boilers the fiercest heat is spent in solid brickwork, as was the case here till I had the furnaces lined with 2.inch tubing. These were placed 1 inch apart, and the furnace bricked up at about 2 inches behind them, so as to allow the fire to play right round the tubes. The result has been most satisfactory, as the power of the boilers has been nearly doubled. One furnace contains four of these tubes along each side and back, and the other three ; and, as these encase the fire, it will be readily seen how serviceable they are. Boilers should be always so constructed that the fire is fully encased by water, as every brick or other surface not containing water that is exposed to the action of the fire is robbing the coal-heap to no useful purpose. Whatever the form of the boiler, and however fiercely this heat may play on any particular part, the hottest water will be always at the highest point — the top of the boiler, and this is the proper place for the flow to commence. To carry a flow-pipe with a vertical dip must greatly impede the circulation, and lead to loss of heating power. The tendency of all heated liquids is to swell and ascend, and it is of the greatest importance that the top of the boiler should be lower than any of the flows. I quite agree with your correspondent, that every boiler should form its own setting, and that the more the surface that is exposed to the direct action of the fire can be cor- rugated, so as to increase the heating area of that particular part, and break up the flame, the more powerful and valuable will the boiler be. The first cost of a good boiler being heavy, cheap and inferior ones are often used instead, and these are dear at any price, as they entail a continual outlay for extra fuel that would have been saved by the purchase of a good boiler at starting. There are so many good boilers, that it seems invidious to particularise any single make ; but, for moderate cost and real efficiency, the terminal saddle, having tubular bars, is one of the very best, as it entirely encases the fire with water. If the arch of this boiler were only corrugated, it would leave little to be desired ; and boilers of this kind can be set in shallow stokeholes, which is an additional recom. mendation. Besides having boilers of sufficient power, it is of the greatest importance to have plenty of piping, and the economy of this must be apparent to anyone, as it will of course require the water twice as hot in one pipe as it would if two were used to do the same work. If, therefore, we would reduce the yearly cost of coal, it can easily be done by having an efficient boiler, a careful stoker, aud plenty of pipes. »• "■ Woolverstone Park. Wax-yielding Plants. — At a meeting of the Natural Science Society recently held in Hamburgh, Mr. G. Wallis remarked that wax was not only obtained from the berries of Bhus succedanea — a plant which also supplies the celebrated Japau lacquer, the prepara- tion of which remains a secret — but that three other kinds of wax from entirely distinct trees are known to be obtained in South America. One comes from Northern Brazil, and is produced by the beautiful Klopstockia cerifera— called there Carnauba— which grows between the fourth and sixth parallels of southern latitude. Another kind is obtained from a myrica from Peru and New Granada, 96 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 30, 18?5> which passes there under the names of Laurel and Olive. This tree grows in a variety of situations, and even at elevations of 5,000 or 6,000 feet above the sea. A third kind of wax is derived from a tree which, up to altitudes of 10,000 feet, grows in the same republics— viz., the Ceroxylon, or Wax Palm. The methods of obtaining the wax from these trees differ greatly, but its subsequent preparation for the manufacture of candles is, in all cases, the same. In the Klopstockia it is obtained from a dusty coating on the leaves. In the Myrica as well as in the .Rhus succedanea, it is obtained from the berries, and in the remaining instance it is taken from the stem, which is clothed with a thin mantle of wax, and this is scraped off with an instrument made for the purpose. Mr. Wallis stated that a manufactory exists in Brazil for working the wax into candles, of which he had seen fair specimens made from the Carnauba and Laurel kinds. One great drawback is the bad colour of the wax, for bleaching which no process is known. The Brazilian kind is green, the others rather of bluish or light yellow tints. Large premiums have for years been offered in Brazil for the discovery of a process that will effectually whiten the wax ; but as yet they have not produced the desired effect. In Japan they appear to have some process by which it is bleached, but it is doubtful whether it has not already been tried in Brazil. The Ceroxylon produces the whitest wax ; but all kinds suffer more or less from a want of consistency, which, unless they are mixed with other substances, renders them useless for the manufacture of really superior candles. Silica not Essential to Plant Growth.— The idea originated with Sir Humphrey Davy that the silex or silica of the soil must be dissolved by the help of alkali, and must enter the plant in order to stiffen the straw of our grains. That idea was thrown out by Davy, not as a positive assertion, but as a suggestion. Knowing that silica was abundant in the slender stems of cereals and grasses, and is but a small ingredient of other plants, he suggests that the silica might serve the office of stiffening the straw, and act as the skeleton of the plant. The facts which demonstrated the falsity of this idea were developed by two of the agricultural investigators of Saxony, viz., by Dr. Julius Sachs, formerly of the Royal Saxon Academy of Agriculture and Forestry, at Tharandt, and by Dr. Wilhelm Knop, of the University of Leipsic, and for some years director of the Moekern experiment station. These gentlemen at the same time, but independently of each other, made numerous trials on the feeding of plants, by stationing their roots in simple water, in which the sub. stances presumed to be needful for growth were dissolved. By this method of operating they could add or exclude any single or several elements to any desired extent, and thus learn the effect of their presence or absence. They found that potash, lime, magnesia, iron, phosphoric acid, sulphuric acid, chlorine, nitric acid and water, united so as to form a very dilute solution, containing not more than one or two-thousandths of solid matters, was able to nourish various plants, and among them Oats and Maize, as perfectly as a rich soil. The solution thus made contained only the minutest quantities of silica, and plants thus produced contained less than one-thousandth of their weight of silica, and yet their strength was equal to that of field- grown corn, containing one and one-half per cent. The trials have been repeated by at least a dozen other experimentalists, and always with the same results. Thus we know positively that we need not trouble ourselves to manure with silica, or to treat the soil for increasing the supply of it ; the plant does not require it for strength. Silica enters the plant because you cannot keep it out. The very fact of its extreme variability in the same kind of plant, grown in the same kind of soil, while potash and lime are much less variable, and phosphoric acid is almost an invariable quantity is a sufficient indication that it is not an essential element to the plant. — Professor Johnson. Home-grown Tobacco-— The most successful method I know of preparing home-grown Tobacco (see p. 60) is to sow the seed in gentlo heat in March. When up, and large enough to handle, prick out the plants in boxes or pans, or pot them singly in small pots, and grow them on until they have filled the pots with roots. It is not deBirable that they should be starved before being planted out, which should be done either in May or June, after having been hardened off in the usual way. The best place for planting, especially for those whose space is limited, is between the Asparagus beds, as the roots' will then bo partially shaded from the hot sun ; the soil will be rich, and the plants will soon reach their full size. The best time to commence operations will be as soon as the plants are in flower. The plants may then be pulled up by their roots, and brought together to the potting shed, or some other convenient place, and all the leaves can be stripped off the stalks. They must then bo placed out singly, or nearly so, in the full sun, but not on the damp ground. I have found a Quick hedge or a stone wall answer admirably. They become flagged or Bhrivelled by evening, and they must then be packed (a hamper is the best thing for this), pressed firmly and closely together in layers, and remain thereuntil they commence to heat, when they must be placed out again m the sun. Care must be taken that they are not allowed to remain too long in the hamper after commencing to heat, or they will become mouldy. This muBt be repeated until the leaves have become quite dry. Nothing now remains but to pack it away in a dry place until required for use. If this system be adopted, your correspondent will be rewarded by a plentiful supply of highly- coloured and highly-perfumed weed.— J. 8., Bradford, Yorktkin. THE GARDEN IN THE HOUSE. VASES OF FLOWERS. Many kinds of flowers are now attainable for floral decoration, and amongst the vases that I have lately arranged myself was one, the bottom of which consisted of a flat glass dish or tazza, raised on a pedestal about 4 inches high ; from the centre of this rose a slender glass trumpet, also three spirals of glass, which curved outwards when about 12 or 14 inches above the tazza, and each of these supported a small glass basket. This was for a table "ornament in the drawing-room, not for the dinner- table, a purpose for which it would have been useless, as the baskets would have interrupted the view across the table — a point always to be avoided. In the tazza I placed three blooms of Calla asthiopica, and, between each of these, sprays of a pinky-mauve-shaded Primula, and some Cape Heaths. Round the edge were fronds of the following Ferns : — Adiantum pedatum, Pteris serrulata, and some golden and silver varieties, so placed as to slow the backs of the fronds; while placed so as to " wave out " over the flowers, and, as it were, half shroud them, were three large fronds of Maiden- hair Fern (A. cuneatum). In the little suspended baskets I placed sprays of white Epacris, and Cyclamen of the same shade as the Primulas in the tazza, and interspersed throughout the whole was Maiden-hair Fern. In the trumpet were mauve and white Cyclamen, Heaths, Roman Hyacinths, and Ferns, and three long sprays of Lygodium scandens, which drooped down and mingled with the flowers in the tazza below. The next arrangement which I shall describe, consisted of a basket of flowers, also strictly a drawing-room ornament. It was of white china, of an elegant and graceful shape, and was fitted up with Yellow Allamandas, mauve Cyclamen, Cinerarias, Caladium leaves, and mixed Ferns. The Caladium leaves were small in size, and stood up above the flowers with excellent effect. The only drawback to such leaves being introduced into floral arrangements is, that if the plants have not been hardened off previously to being cut, they are apt, when subjected to a dry heated atmosphere, to curl and shrivel, a condition which gives the whole arrangement a faded aspect. The next stands to which I shall allude were large-sized specimen-glasses, a few of which, placed here and there about a sitting-room, and tastefully filled with flowers, form as pretty decorations as any, and they require but few flowers ; in fact, more than a dozen of them could be filled with the same number as would be required to fit up the smallest sized stand of the March type. I have seen a few lately fitted in the following manner : — In one was a white Camellia, a sprig of scarlet Geranium, some spikes of Roman Hyacinths, and fronds of Maiden-hair Fern ; another consisted of a yellow Rose-bud, scarlet Geraniums, and Ferns ; another of a Gardenia, some fancy Pelargonium blooms, Roman Hyacinths, and some Fern fronds. On Christmas Day, amongst other vases, I arranged four of this shape for placing on the drawing- room mantel-piece, and employed the following flowers : — One contained a large Gardenia, some blue Nemophila, spikes of white Epacris, and Maiden-hair Fern ; another, a white Camellia, pink Geraniums (Christine), pink Heaths, and Ferns ; a third, mauve Orchids, Roman Hyacinths, and Maiden Hair Fern ; and a fourth, a yellow half -blown Rose- bud, scarlet Euphorbia, and white Cyclamen. Single blooms can be placed in these glasses if preferred, but in that case the glasses should be of smaller size than any of those just enumerated. If single blooms be selected, they should be of choice varieties and perfect specimens of their kind, such as a handsome Eucharis, Orchid, Gardenia, Rose, or Camellia, and they should always have plenty of Maiden-hair Fern associated with them ; in fact, each bloom should be set in a little bower of greenery, and a tiny spray should be drawn across the bloom, so as to tone down and at the same time set off the flower thus situated. Many often hesitate to use much Maiden-hair Fern in their floral arrangements, under the impression that fronds of this Fern last but a short period ; this is, however, a mistake, as, if the plants from which the fronds are cut be well hardened off beforehand, they will last quite as long as, if not longer than, the flowers with which they are associated. A. Hassard. Jan. 30, 1875.] THE GARDEN. 97 THE INDOOR GARDEN. FORCING FLOWERS. In forcing, the first consideration for amatenrs should be to secure plants of full and decided maturity and in perfect health, if not luxuriant, for it will invariably be found that the beauty of the flower will depend very much on the growth of the previous year, and, all other circumstances being the same, will be rich or meagre, in exact proportion to its vigour. Then the plants intended to be used should be thoroughly established before they are introduced to a warmer atmosphere, otherwise they will not have acquired the means which are necessary for immediately supplying aliment to meet the demands of an increased circulation. Amongst the plants usually selected for forcing, the bulbous-rooted and herba- ceous, which form an entirely new set of organs every year, may be fortnight will generally be long enough, the hard-wooded may be kept a little longer, and then introduced to the stove. In the ordinary development of the organs of a plant, growth first com- mences at the root and proceeds gradually upwards, as we may observe in the bursting of the leaf and the formation and expanding of the flower-bud. Now, under these well-known circumstances, it would be absurd to place a plant into a high temperature at first, for then the action would commence at the stem, or above the roots, and, of course, the result would be an abortive production of leaves or flower-buds, caused by the inaction of the roots and want of necessary food. Another necessary point to be observed in forcing is a judicious supply of water ; as a rule, it will be safe to regulate it according to the supply of heat, commencing with a limited supply at first, and increasing it with the increase of temperature, resulting in a full supply every day at the period of blooming. Of course some plants requiro larger supplies of water at all times than others. "&■■■ ™ Tillandsia musaica. introduced into heat after a few weeks establishment in pots, but such as Roses, Rhododendrons, and other hard.wooded plants which have a more persistent system, are absolute in requiring to be potted at least six months before any successful attempt at forcing can be made, so as to allow them to form a season's roots. Havinc- the selected plants properly prepared, the next essential is the manner in which the necessary heat is applied, for any misapplication in this respect will render the previous labour and expense useless, an d result in loss and disappointment. The increase of heat should be brought on gradually, so as to resemble as nearly as possible the advances of spring, which forcing is intended to anticipate. It is always better that plants intended for forcing should never feel the effects of frost, however hardy their natural constitution may be, and for that reason they should be early put into a cold frame, at a temperature of not less than 35° ; then, according to the time they are required to flower, they may be introduced into a greenhouse temperature of 45° ; the length of time they are kept there will depend on the nature of the plants ; for poft-wooded and herbaceous kinds a When blooming, it will be advisable to remove them to a cooler house and supply less water. — " Gardener's Record." TILLANDSIA MUSAICA. As a fine foliage plant of distinct habit and tolerably easy culture, this has but few equals. The broad strap-shaped leaves are of a bright green tint, transversely banded with deep green and brown, or purple, markings, well shown in the accompanying illustration. In its native habitat, it is found growing in moist, partially-shaded situations, at about 5,000 feet above the sea level. It grows nearly equally well on the trunk of trees or in a rich leaf mould, the result of an ever changing tropical vegetation. The plants appear to be exceedingly difficult to import alive, and seed is difficult to obtain, owing to its becoming ripo at the commencement of the rainy season. It requires a moist and equable stovo temperature, and succeeds best in a rich compost of Sphagnum, leaf mould, peat, and sand. Mr. Bull was one of the first in Europe to obtain living plants of it, and it sue 93 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 30, 1875 ceeds well in his establishment among other choice foliage plants. The flowers are said to be extremely ornamental, but have not yet been produced in this country. B. A GOOD METHOD WITH PERSIAN CYCLAMENS. Rapid strides have been made within these last seven or eight years in the culture of this, the Queen of winter decorative plants. A well managed group of Cyclamens was at one time rarely met with ; but since its growing capacity has become better understood, it forms one of the foremost attractions at our early winter and spring floral exhibitions, and in the metropolitan flower markets, where, perhaps, it commands a more ready sale and a higher price than any other plant grown for decorative purposes. It is a valuable auxiliary in esta- blishments when large conservatories or rooms have regularly to be supplied with a numerous assortment of forced plants in pots during winter ; and it is indispensable where cut flowers are in demand for vases and bouquets. The sweet-scented kinds are highly esteemed for the latter purpose, and, from the fact of their being of such easy culture, I consider that they are a class of plants well adapted to the requirements of amateurs. Their peculiar mottled foliage, and the long dura- tion of their bloom, render them a never-failing source of interest and pleasure, which is well worth any extra pains that may be bestowed on their culture. From October until Christmas being the dullest portion of the year for flowering plants, I always aim at getting my first batch in at that time. To effect this let them be sown as early in October as possible, in a well-drained pot or pan, previously steeping the seed, which is unusually hard and slow in coming up, in moderately hot water, and placing a pane of glass over the pan, which should then be placed on a shelf near the glass in a warm house or stove, if such be available. Germination will take place in about a fortnight, and the pane of glass must then be removed from the pan to prevent damping off, and also drawing. In about six weeks from the time of sowing I pot them singly into small pots, and replace them on the shelf as before. In the February following I shift them into 48-sized pots, choosing, this time, a compost composed of equal parts of friable loam and dried cow-dung, with a heavy admixture of sharp river sand; I have often tried other mixtures of potting mould, but found none to answer so well as this. From this time I grow them on as briskly as possible until the 1st of May, when they are transferred to a pit or frame, and gradually hardened off, prior to being turned out of the pots and planted about the middle of the month; this, however, must of course depend upon the weather. A north border I And to be the best position to plant them out in. Let the ground be well dug and thoroughly well pulverised, and heavily dressed with rotten manure and plenty of rough sand. Avoid planting them too deeply ; keep at least three parts of the bulb well above the surface. I consider this manure dressing to be of paramount importance, providing, as it does, a cool and rich bottom, which is so congenial to the Cyclamen during the hot summer months. A good watering once a week, and a sprinkling with a fine hose or syringe once a day to keep down insect pests, is all the attention they will now require. In the middle of August take them up with a fair amount of soil or ball attached, and pot them in 32's, or Strawberry pots as they are called ; use the same compost as that recommended for February potting, and remove them to a pit, paying due atten- tion to watering, shading, &c, for about ten days. By the middle or end of September the pots will be found to be crammed full of roots, when they may be placed in the green- house in a position as near as possible to the glass. In adopting this easy method of culture I have been well repaid this winter by as fine a lot of plants for their age as I have ever seen. I formerly sowed them in January and bloomed them in ten months, but I find the twelve months' system the best. My success in this direction has been much augmented by the kindness of Mr. Edgerton, gardener at Strawberry Hill, who some years ago presented me with a selected packet of seed from his famous collection grown at that place. T. P. T. [We have seen the CyclamenB in the open air in summer, as described by our correspondent, and they were very well and simply grown.] GARDENING FOR THE WEEK, Hardy Flowers, Alpine Plants, and the "Wild Garden. The value of our hardy border plants is now duly recognised in the majority of gardens. They are no longer looked upon as outcasts, and as such consigned to some out-of-the-way corner of the grounds, where, in years gone by, they were entirely neglected, and left alone in their struggle for existence. This treatment could have but one result. The weaker plants succumbed ; all but a few of the most vigorous and least useful disappearing. What, then, is the best position for an herbaceous border ? In olden times, these plants used almost invariably to be arranged by the side of the walks in the kitchen garden, nor have I the least objection to their occupying such a position even now ; but the appropriation of such borders to pyramid trees has rather interfered with the olden style. As these have to undergo the operation of occasional root-pruning, it will be obvious that these borders have lost their value for such a purpose, added to which trees interrupt the continuity, which is one of the most important features of a well-arranged herbaceous border. For my part, I prefer a border of this sort to be situated in the pleasure- grounds, with an aspect fairly open to the sun, and not overshadowed by trees. It should be about 8 feet wide, and backed up by a bank of evergreen shrubs. This is a more important point than many people might suppose, and one which it is out of the question to expect where the old kitchen garden arrangement is carried out. There the best backing, and one that used often to be adopted, is a row of Sweet Peas ; but a backing of this nature is necessarily of a tem- porary character, and lacks the repose which a back-ground of evergreen shrubs gives. Even the colours of our most brilliant flower- ing plants are more effective when seen against a back.gronnd of those varying shades of neutral tints which are available in our mixed shrub- bery. For example, how much more beatif ul Hollyhocks appear where they rear their monumental stems, like so many floral columns, amongst the surrounding greenery than when seen against the sky line. There are few places where a border of this sort cannot be formed. It is by no means necessary that it should be straight ; a good bold sweeping curve is, in some respects, preferable, as it reduces stiffness and formality, which, if not entirely dispensed with in an herbaceous border, should be a matter of secondary importance. Having selected a border as suggested, the next point will be the character of the soil. If it has been found necessary to invade the lawn all the better, as the majoi'ity of these plants have a peculiar liking for fresh soil ; indeed, all plants have, unless it be some of our nitrogenous-loving weeds. After the removal of the turf, for which a use is almost sure to be found in any garden, test the drainage, and be sure that there is no danger of any part of the border becoming waterlogged ; rather put in an extra drain than run any risk, and let the drains be, if possible, 3 feet, or even more, below the surface, as the roots of all plants, and more especially the class of plants for which we are making provision, are particularly partial to these aerial arteries. The drainage having been completed, and, in the process, the character of the sub-soil tested, a pretty correct opinion may be formed as to what admixture will be necessary. If the soil be a strong clay, I should, instead of removing a portion of the clay and replacing it with good loamy soil, prefer to raise the border, by any addition you may deem it necessary to make, to a height of 12 or 15 inches at the back. Of course there may be exceptions ; but, as a rule, herbaceous plants like a tolerably stiff and retentive soil. The front of the border, where the dwarfer and more delicate-rooting plants will be placed, may require some of the sub-soil taking out so as to secure a depth of about 12 inches above the clay bottom. This done, give a good dressing of well-decomposed manure, suoh as an old Mushroom.bed will furnish ; and, if available, an equal proportion of leaf soil, and about a barrowful to every 2 linear yards of border of old mortar or plaster from any old buildings, or, failing that, the same quantity of sand. Dig over the whole to the full depth of soil, so as to thoroughly mingle the materials together ; it must then be left loose as dug till the first or second week in March, when it will have settled under the combined influence of frost, snow, and rain, and be in a condition for planting. If the soil bo of a light sandy nature, and, as is frequently the case, lying on a gravelly sub-soil, I should strongly advise the removal of a portion of the gravel by trenching, and, if it be at all possible, the use of an equal amount of strong soil, even if at some outlay, and incorporating this with the natural soil — adding manure of a somewhat stronger character than recom. mended under the previous conditions, and omitting the leaf-mould and the mortar.rubbish as unnecessai-y in this case. I have presumed that the grassy side of the shrubbery, plantation, or whatever it may be, has been selected ; but circumstances may occur in which it may be more convenient to remove some of the shrubs, so as to obtain the necessary width of border. In this case the treatment will be different. Of course my remarks on drainage will hold good, but the Jan. 30, 1875.] THE GARDEN. 99 ground must be trenched at least two feet deep ; in the bottom of each trench, as opened, 4 or 5 inches of any strong manure may be placed, without paying attention to its thorough decomposition ; and as the first spit of soil is turned over on the top of the manure, it should be trodden pretty well down so as to give it firmness. The trenching process being completed, a, surface-dressing of materials the same as those previously described, but varying according as the soil may be of a heavy or light sandy nature, should be applied and lightly forked in. In this case the ground having been disturbed to a depth of 2 feet before any planting is done, it will be well, even though a couple of months intervene between the formation and the final planting, to tread the border well over and thoroughly con. solidate it, as herbaceous plants like a firm root-hold. Light surface soil tends to surface rooting, and thus incapacitates plants from passing unscathed through even a moderate drought. — Jas. C. Niven. Flower Garden and Pleasure Grounds. Finish as soon as possible the planting of evergreen and deciduous shrubs and trees, and as soon as this has been done, the soil, if at all heavy on account of the necessary treading upon it during the operation of planting, will probably be found to be in a somewhat consolidated condition ; and should wet weather prevail, this may cause accumulations of stagnant water. To prevent this, let it be loosened up with a spade, or, what is better", with a light fork, which will leave it in a loose and friable condition. As previously advised, proceed as rapidly as possible with alterations of all kinds, whether they may consist of the formation of flower-beds and borders, the making of walks, levelling and laying of turf or planting of Box, and other edgings. The planting of hardy herbaceous perennial plants may also be proceeded with, and these plants may be furnished by the reserve garden, or they may be obtained by the division of large and established plants. There are now so many really valuable hardy herbaceous and Alpine plants well suited to this purpose that many of the tall coarse-growing species may with advantage be dis- carded, as a judicious selection of really decorative plants, well attended to, is certainly more to be desired than a collection of greater extent containing plants worthless as regards decorative effect. A somewhat liberal use, however, may be made with safety of such genera as the Delphinium, Dianthus, Myosotis, Pentstemon, Phlox, and Iris. Wherever it is desired to indulge in the style of gardening known as sub-tropical, the seeds of various kinds of plants used for this purpose should be sown now, in order that they may be had sufficiently strong when the time arrives for planting them out. Such seeds should, of course, be sown in heat in seed- pans, and the plants should be potted off singly as soon as they are large enough to be handled, and grown on as rapidly as possible. They may consist of the various Ricinuses, Cannabis gigantea, Nico- tiana Wigandioides, Solanum Warscewiczii, &c. ; while dry roots of the Cannas, Brugmansias, &c, should be at once placed in heat with a view to increase by cuttings or divisions. Such plants as the Humea elegans, so useful for decorative purposes, should be sown in September, and potted off singly during the autumn ; they may now require to be potted into larger pots, as, if they are allowed to become pot-bound, they will invariably lose their lower leaves. Pot off also rooted cuttings of choice Hollyhocks which may have been inserted during last autumn into pots some 4 inches in diameter ; keep them close for a few days, and, when fairly established in their pots, they will only require the protection of a cold pit or frame until the time arrives when they may with safety be planted out where they are intended to flower. Proceed at once to increase bedding stock of all kinds, in accordance with what is likely to be required. Spring-struck cuttings of such plants as the Verbena, Petunia, Ageratum, Coleus, Iresine, &c, are all much to be preferred to those struck during the previous autumn, which it is advisable to throw away when sufficient cuttings have been secured from them, and such cuttings should be inserted in well drained pots, some 6 or 8 inches in diameter, using a soil composed of sifted leaf soil, and river or silver sand ; place the pots containing them in a gentle heat until fairly rooted, when they should be gradually inured to the temperature of an ordinary greenhouse pit, with the exception of the two last-named species, which will, for some time longer, require to be kept in a higher temperature, but in no instance is potting-off singly necessary. Spring-flowering plants and bulbs will soon begin to attract attention, so keep the beds and borders containing them free from weeds and littery matter of all kinds. Remove litter or worm-casts from the lawns by frequent sweeping, and pass a heavy roller over it as often as possible, while the same should frequently be done with gravel walks, in order to render them firm and comfort- able. At this season the gravel, when somewhat moist, is apt to adhere to the roller ; and, to prevent this, let a faggot of dry wood be burned inside the roller just before using it for this purpose. — P. Grieve, Culford, Bui-y St. Edmunds. Trees and Shrubs. Push on the planting of all kinds of deciduous trees and Bhrubs, as the buds are fast swelling, and this kind of work should now be brought to a close as soon as possible. After planting, all should receive a good mulching of half-rotten litter, and, if in situations where the appearance of this is likely to be objectionable, scatter a little fine soil over it, and this will prevent it being blown about. In planting for effect, make choice of elevated positions, and group together plants that are of similar feature, or type, of vegetation and associate well together. By taking advantage of elevated ground, and planting, on the summit, only trees that grow to a con- siderable height, and, on the foreground, trees of the same type, but of lower growth, the hills are, as it were, uplifted, and the valleys depressed. Trees should never be planted in a hollow, but on the summit or side of hills. In such positions, they always look more natural, and show off to greater advantage. Planted in this way, they are not only much more effective, but help to bring out any slight undulations in the ground in the most favourable manner. For groups in park scenery, or near mansions in pleasure-grounds, few things are more striking or ornamental than the Scotch Fir (Pinus sylvestris). Their bright-looking polished bark is always attractive, and their towering majestic height and form invariably command admiration. The Maiden. hair tree (Salisburia adiantifolia) is a highly ornamental tree for pleasure-grounds, and it is singular that it is so seldom met with. Its light green elegant leaves are only excelled by the favourite Fern it resembles, and from which it derives its name. It appears a little fastidious as to soil, as I have never seen it good except on stiff deep land. Although, as a rule, I am not in favour of transplanting evergreens at this season of the year, if the weather continues mild, Aucnbas, Rhododendrons, Box, and plants of this kind, that always lift with good balls of earth, may be moved with comparative safety ; and there may be special reasons why such work should be done now. When such is the case, those trees that have been so frequently removed as to have induced plenty of fibre, may be operated upon with every prospect of success provided February and March do not turn out too cold and cutting. April is, of all others, the safe month for transplanting evergreens and any choice specimens should be left till that time. Of all evergreens, Rhododendrons are perhaps the most beautiful ; but as it is generally supposed they will not succeed in any other than peat soil, many are deterred from attempting to grow them. The want of peat need be no obstacle to their cultivation, as they will grow in any sharp clean soil that has not been much under cultivation. The best, perhaps, for this purpose, is the trimmings of banks and turf from the side of roads and paths, which contain plenty of sharp grit. The trimmings from the road-side, or any soil that may be used must not contain chalk, or it will be fatal to success. If choice plants are planted, and peat can be obtained at a moderate cost, it is worth while to give them a start in this material. To do this, a hole should be dug large enough to hold a bushel or so, in which the plant will get a good hold, and be independent of the surrounding soil for a year or two. Failing this, leaf soil, about half decomposed, may be used in the same way. In planting, make choice of moderately moist and partially shaded situations, as Rhododendrons will not bear excessive drought, and succeed best if not exposed to the full glare of the sun. — J. S., Wolverstone Park. Indoor Fruit Department. Vines. — Muscats require 5° more heat from the time they are coming into bloom until they are mature than any other sorts. In Vineries where all the shoots have been once stopped, the temperature may be allowed to rise to 85° before giving a little air at the top. No favourable opportunity should be neglected to admit some fresh air, as growing Vines generally stand very much in need of such at this season. Prompt attention must be given to the thinning of bunches and berries on permanent Vines. Those left should be as much equalised as possible as regards size of bunch and the space between each other. The berries on these require to be thinned out more than those in pots, but what number to take out and what to leave must be left to one's own judgment, as all berries do not swell alike, nor will all Vines carry an equal crop. Never allow any pinchings to remain about the house after they are taken off, nor permit the berries to mingle with the soil when thinning. When all have been thinned, the inside border must be supplied with a copious watering. If this can be had at the temperature of the house so much the better. A dusting of guano may with advantage be put all over the surface of the border before watering, and will be washed down about the roots with advantage. Do not rak& the surface of the border fine, or the roots may starve for want of water by-and.bye. When Verbenas or any other plants that are liable to be infested by red spider are placed in Vineries, a vigilant eye must be kept on them. If syringing be discontinued when the bunches are in bloom, it should 100 THE GAEDBN. [Jan. 30, 1875. be resumed immediately after the fruit has fairly set. No time should be lost iu pruning late Vines, and cleaning the rods and house with as much care as has been exercised in former ones. After this has been accomplished, admit all the air possible, so that the Vines may have that rest before being started again, which the constant firing has hitherto prevented them from enjoying. Any odd bunches of fruit still hanging should not be allowed to interfere with these proceedings, but be cut and stored in the fruit-room. Pines. — If the soil which it is intended to use for potting these at their spring shift has been outside all winter, protection from wet should be given it forthwith ; the corner of the potting. shed is a very suitable cover, and convenient. As time permits, the soil may be prepared for potting. Do not cut the turfs with a spade, or other implement ; but tear it asunder with the hands into bits about the size of hens' eggs. This always keeps the fibre entire, which is of much importance with the Pine, especially if the soil is excessively light and sandy. Any of the early Queen pots, which were eased to let the violent bottom. heat escape, should have the plunging material firmly re-pressed around them, so soon as the fruit is up. A uniform temperature at the top and bottom must be constantly supplied to these when the fruit is in a tender state, as it is at this stage that any change or sudden check is more acutely felt than later, when any fluctuation has not so much influence on the future development of the fruit. Other Queens, intended to supply later fruit, should remain in a low temperature ; and the drier they can be kept consistently with health, the more certainly will they show fruit when desired. — J. Muir. Hardy Fruit. Orchard trees seldom receive a tithe of the attention theydeserve- If, at this season, when pruning, dressing, nailing, &c, is being carried on amongst other kinds of fruit, the orchard trees came in for the same liberal treatment, the results would assuredly be great. Unfortunately, however, it is customary to leave orchards to them, selves, and to break through an old-established custom, of however absurd a nature it may be, is invariably a matter of some difficulty. In pruning neglected orchard trees, the endeavour should be made to have every branch clear of its neighbour, and so thinned that, when windy, they do not chafe together. The long and ugly spurs should be shortened back by cutting a few off each year, and in this manner gradually getting rid of all. Lichen and Moss must be cleared off, and, if necessary for its thorough destruction, the stems and branches painted with a mixture of quick-lime and soot. A good dressing of either fresh soil or dung should afterwards be given ; and, if digging amongst the trees is impracticable, leave it as a mulching over the roots. If it has not been already done, Raspberries should, at the earliest opportunity, be thinned out ; all the old fruiting, canes of last year should be cut away, and the new canes regulated according to the different modes of training ; that which is the least laborious and most effectivo is to have a couple of straining- posts, from five to six feet in height, and well secured in the ground ; to these attaoh three or four (strong wires, equidistant, and tie the canes to them ; each cane should be distant from the other at least nine inches, and may be shortened back to the same height as the top wire of the fence. It is generally thought that Raspberries are better without manure or other dressing ; but this is erroneous, as no other kind of fruit rewards the cultivator more for liberal treatment than the Raspberry. Gooseberry and Currant bushes may be pruned, and the branches of each well thinned out. All kinds are best pruned on the spur principle, with the exception of Black Currants, and these bear the best and the finest fruit on the wood of the previous year, and should be treated accordingly. Birds, aud particularly Bullfinches, have now began their annual work of destroying buds. The best method of reducing them is the gun, aud, though by some people its use for such a purpose may be thought cruel, one has to choose, in this part of the country, between this remedy and an absence of fruit. Great diversity of opinion exists as to the best time for pruning Apricots and Peaches. My own opinion is that the moment the bnds begin to swell no titno should bo lost in getting it finished, and the trees nailed and tied to the walls, or trellis, as the case may be. The recent mild weather has brought np the buds of all kinds of fruit, more especially Apricots, and these should therefore have the first attention. Planting all kinds of hardy fruit, when the ground is in suitable condition, should be pushed forward, as it is desirable that such work should be completed early. The same remarks apply to trees growing too freely, which requiro root-pruning to induce greater fruitfulness. — W. WlLDSiiirn, Heckfield. Kitchen Garden. Brussels Sprouts require a considerable timo for attaining their full development ; and, where an autumn supply is required, if tho first sowing was not made last Octobor (which, iu many situations, is a good plan), a box or two should now be sown under glass. As a rule, this vegetable is both sown and planted too late in many plaoes to obtain the most profitable results. Plant out from the seed or nursery bed autumn. sown Cabbages to succeed those planted last September. Stir the soil with a fork between tho rows of early Cabbages, selecting a drying day for the operation, and afterwards earth them up. Make a small sowing of Celery, in pans or boxes in heat, for flavouring purposes. Turner's Incomparable White is the best variety for this purpose. When the weather is suitable, and the ground in good working condition, a portion at least of the autumn. sown Onions should be transplanted. In gardens where the Onion maggot is troublesome, it is better to sow the main crop in autumn, somewhat thickly, in a sheltered position, and transplant early in February, or, at least, as soon as the land can be got into a good condition. Seleot a piece of land that was manured and deeply dug in the autumn or early winter ; wheel on a good dressing of charcoal dust, such as can usually be had from the bottoms of heaps where charcoal has been burnt ; or, failing this, fall back on the heap of charred refuse reserved when the rubbish-yard was overhauled, spread it evenly over the surface, and rake it well iu, or fork it in lightly. Soot also may at all times be beneficially applied. Make the ground tolerably firm, either by treading or drawing the roller over it, and put in the plants, not too deeply, 1 foot row from row, and -i inches apart in the rows, and a good crop of Onions will be the result. The sooner this is done, if the weather and the ground are suitable, the better, as the plants will be making headway ; and, if the maggot should make its appearance, they will not do so much harm as when the Onions are small. If not already done, make a sowing of Veitoh's Autumn Cauliflower in pans in heat. This is one of the best for summer nse, as it is more capable of withstanding drought than others. Take up the remainder of the crops of Jerusalem Artichokes ; select the best for use ; place them in a cool cellar or shed, with a little dry sand strewed over them to keep them from shrivelling. In the forcing department every available frame or light will now, or shortly, be brought into requisition, as well as many other contrivances of a makeshift character suggested by the ingenuity of persevering cultivators, and much forethought and attention will be required. In fine mild weather, give as much air as can be done with safety to Potatoes, Carrots, Radishes, Lettuces, &c. Earth up early Potatoes that may require it with light rich soil that has lain in a warm shed a few days to warm. Potatoes with their tops near the glass must be well covered up at night to prevent the fr^st injuring them. When the early Radishes have all been drawn from amongst the first crops of early Horn Carrots, thin out the latter to about an inch apart, and, in order to fill up all holes, aud level displaced soil, sift a little fino rich soil all over the bed, and then water with tepid water (using a rosed pot) all over the bed to settle the young Carrots in their posi- tion aud hasten their growth. It is at all times necessary to see that all tools are kept in a proper state of repair, and for each man to have one of each kind, such as fork, rake, spade, hoe, &o., for his own individual use, and each man should have also his own place in the tool house, with the necessary hooks or pegs to hang them up, so as to be always ready for use without wasting time in looking for anything he may require. — E. Hobday. COCOA-NUT FIBRE AND ITS USES. This valuable refuse is capable of being used in many ways in garden operations. It is excellent when mixed with sand for propagating. For this purposo I prefer it to leaf mould, the value of which for root -production is, of course, well established. Sand alone is often used for propagating ; plants root freely in it, but tho roots become too long and tender to do well when they are removed into stiffer soil. When the roots are partially developed in any fibrous substance such a change is never felt, as they are confined to a round portable ball at the base. I have rooted many thousand cuttings in the Cocoa-nut fibre and sand, and I am convinced they took hold of it quicker and with more freedom than any thing I havo tried. This applies to having pots filled with it, and also to propa. gating bods, where a thin layer of it was laid on the top of the flags about the hot-water pipes, and then well watered. On the cuttings being put in, they rooted with wonderful rapidity. Being so open, the heat works freely into and between it, and never becomes sour. As one batch is lifted out it requires to be smoothed over with the hand, and that is all that is necessary before putting iu another quantity. One bed of it will root successive batches of cuttings for a whole year without renewal. As a plunging material for propa. gating or for plants which need bottom. heat, it is eqnally useful, and it is much longer in decaying than tan or leaves, and is, moreover, cleaner to work iu aud more pleasant to look at. As a mulching for trees, it is safer and more desirable than tan, or, indeed, than many Jan. 30, 1875.] THE GAEDBN. 101 kinds of manure, and brings with it none of the Fungi which invariably accompany the use of tan for this purpose I have seen loam poisoned for plant growing by having tan in a decayed state laid upon its surface. When Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus, and other bulbs are potted, they start into growth much more freely under a covering of Coooa.nut fibre than of ashes or any other matter generally used for that purpose. Bulbs in outBide borders show an equal apprecia- tion of it, and it may be used with advantage in mixtures pre. pared for potting. Soft-wooded stove plants, such as Alocasias, Anthuriums, Marantas, CaladiumB, Begonias, Dieffenbachias, &c, succeed well in it. Indeed, it should everywhere take high rank among the requirements for root development, for it can be procured for a mere fraction from nurserymen, or direct from Cocoa-nut mat factories. J- Mum THE KITCHEN GARDEN. RHUBARB IN LONDON MARKET GARDENS. Of lato years this has become a much sought-for and important vegetable, but half a century ago it was scarcely known in the London market. The late Mr. Myatt, of Deptford, is looked upon as being the father of Rhubarb growers ; but his son, the present Mr. Myatt, informs me that Rhubarb was grown iu the neighbourhood some years before his father took to growing it, although he was certainly the first who grew it in quantity. The Deptford and neighbouring market gardeners at first thought that Myatt was mad upon the subject ; but they soon found out that this was a paying job, though a mad one, and consequently they took to growing it, as also did the majority of the London market gardeners. Now, however, it is almost universally grown, and it is a very accomodating crop, requiring but little care or attention. The varieties grown consist chiefly of the Early Albert, Myatt's Linnajus, Myatt's Victoria, Red Champagne, and Johnson's St. Martin. The last-named sort Mr. Steel has just taken to grow, and it promises well. Mr. Myatt informs me that Red Champagne is much sought after in the market on account of its fine red stalks, and, when forced, its colour is brighter and more imposing than that of other sorts. The soil used for growing Rhubarb is a deep, rich, and moderately moist one, and the position is sometimes in exposed places, and at other times under the shade of fruit trees. The exposed positions are decidedly productive of the finest Rhubarb, hence it may be most desirable to adopt such ; but under fruit trees this crop grows almost as well as anything else that could be planted • therefore in order to economise this space, I think few crops pay better than this one. In the Rhubarb season, which is spring, that under the fruit trees grows well, and, as the trees are leafless, they do not shade them much. In sheltered corners, such as are to be found under fruit trees, the produce comes naturally for use about a week sooner than from the open field. In making new plantations, divisions of the old stools are used, and they are planted in rows 2| feet or 3 feet apart, and from 2 feet to 2i feet asunder in the rows. No leaves are cut away from them the first year, but the space between the lines is planted with Lettuces or Coleworts. During the second season many stalks are not cut ; but in the third year a fair crop is realised. As soon as time can be spared in winter, and before the leaves begin to grow, the ground between the rows is dug over roughly, and a large forkful of rank litter placed over each crown. It would be difficult to take the litter into the plantation on a wheelbarrow, owin°- to the softness of the newly-dug soil ; therefore the workmen carry it in baskets, either on their heads, or, if the baskets are large, in the hand, two people being employed to each of the latter. As a rule, however, some people are employed to fill the round vegetable baskets used ; others to carry them on their heads, and a few more to empty their contents over the crowns of the plants. Under the litter the stalks come up clean, tender, and crisp — very much more so than if none were used. The leaf-stalks are pulled for market as long as there is a demand for them, and even in late summer lar^e waggon-loads are often disposed of to jam manufacturers. In bunch, ing the Rhubarb for market, a piece of board, padded with a piece of an old bag, is nailed to the bench in the packing shed, and into it four nails or pegs are driven, two withies being laid crossways for tying. The finest leaves are placed in the bottom, the top and ends being alternate, and over them some small ones, making up the outside again with large stalks, so that the Bmall ones are entirely hidden. Rhubarb.forcing is very simple, and is done in hotbeds covered with hoops and mats. In making young plantations, the sets are some- times planted about 18 inches apart each way ; and, at forcing-time, every other row, and the alternate plants in tho row left, are lifted for forcing; old plantations, too, are cleared entirely for forcing. The leaves will be decayed enough to be raked off by the middle of October, by which time the first portion is usually lifted for forcing. For this purpose trenches are cast out, about 4 feet wide and 2 feet deep, and filled with fermenting manure. Over this a thin layer of common soil is placed, and in it tho crowns, after being trimmed of some of their rougher roots, are planted. Over the crowns some loose litter is strewed, and then the beds are hooped over and covered with mats, over which another layer of straw or litter is placed during winter. In the outside covering apertures are made at gathering time, and closed again when done. In February, if the weather be mild, the hoops and mats are commonly dispensed with. In the gardens of Mr. Bessent at Mortlake I have seen some excel, lent Rhubarb produced in pits, like deep Potato pits, with some heating material underneath, and some loose straw merely shaken loosely over them. "• Endive. — This vegetable is grown to perfection in the London market gardens, and is ready for use from the middle of August till Christmas. Many growers keep up a supply during the winter and early spring by lifting the plants for winter use and planting them in a frame or amongst sand in a shed, and for spring use from late sowings planted out in dry and sheltered soil. As our markets, how- ever, are so liberally and easily furnished with beautiful Endives from France during the winter, it would not pay the English grower to cultivate them for winter and early spring market. The green curled and the dwarf variety of the same are two sorts commonly grown ; but a few of the broad-leaved kinds are sometimes grown in gardens. In the middle of May a sowing is made either in a cold frame or a bed of light soil in the open air, and covered with litter like Radishes. This early crop is commonly planted out on the Celery ridges about the middle or end of June, and becomes fit for use in August. Very early Endives are liable to " run " before they fill up ; therefore, earlier sowings than that of May are not to be relied on, and much dependence cannot even be placed on that. A large sowing is made in the open air in June, and another smaller one in July. The plants in the seed bed are thinned out a little at an early stage if thick, and are transplanted permanently in rows about 15 inches apart, and a foot asunder in the rows, between Celery or between summer Cauliflowers, Lettuces, or Cabbages, or in an open field by themselves. Beyond hoeing, no further care is bestowed on them until they have grown enough for tying up, when their leaves are gathered up together and tied round their middle with withies or pieces of matting, like Lettuces. They are kept tied up for a fort- night or three weeks in order that they may be well blanched for market. In September and October the Endives are very fine and abundant in our markets. Mr. Poupart, Mortlake ; Messrs. Evans, Dancer, Humphreys, and others, Fulham Fields, are amongst our largest Endive growers. — F. Exporting the Colorado Potato Beetle.— I notice that the Governments of Switzerland, Austria, and Belgium have adopted stringent measures against the importation of American Potatoes infected with the Colorado Potato beetle. Now, if the wise men of Europe can tell us what they mean by the word " infected," as aoplied in this instance, I, for one, desire to have them give an explana- tion. Their entomologists, at least, should know that the beetle referred to does not infect, or in any manner attack, the tuber, but confines itself to the leaves in summer ; and the chances of exporting this beetle with the Potatoes is about as likely to occur as sending a cotton planter's " Sambo " with a bale of cotton. Then, again, does not everybody know that this beetle is a native of Texas as well as of the plains to the northward, from whence cotton, bufialo hides, and various other articles have been shipped direct to Europe for the past century, all without once infecting the Potatoes of the Old World ? But, for all this, the Colorado Potato pest may be carried to Europe, and become naturalised there j still, it is far more likely to be trans- ported in some other material than among Potatoes, because it is not so stupid as to go to roost for the winter upon a Potato when it can find more comfortable quarters. If the European Governments desire to prevent the introduction and spread of this beetle, let them send over for a bushel preserved iu alcohol, and have these mounted and distributed among the farmers, in order that they shall be known and recognised at the moment of their first appearance. Knowledge is power in these matters as well as others, and, had our farmers known the pest on its advent, and cared to destroy it, we should never have heard of Colorado Potato beetles east of the Mississippi River. When these beetles become abundant about our Atlantic seaports, they will no doubt be carried aboard of outgoing vessels, with fresh vegetables from gardens, or even upon tho clothes or baggage of passengers ; and it would be well for our transatlantic cousins to know them on arrival, in order to bestow a fitting recep- tion. But this beetle neither infects by laying its eggs upon, or in the tubers ; neither is it in the habit of crawling into barrels of 102 THE GAKDEN. [Jan. 30, 1875. Potatoes for the purpose of obtaining a free ride by rail or water ; consequently, the excluding of Potatoes from a country as a precau- tionary measure, as intended in this instance, shows ignorance on the part of the makers of such regulations. — Correspondent, " Moore's Rural." Kitchen Garden Edgings.— Stevens' garden edging brick, which we recently saw in use in the kitchen garden at Trentham, is by far the best and neatest of any we have met with. Mr. Stevens is doing away with live edgings, such as Box and Ivy, which have been formerly used, and after two years' experience is preparing to replace them by this brick, a light stone-coloured brick of his own design, remarkable for its neatness and durability. Its form admits of its being laid so firmly as to be practically immoveable ; its colour gives it the appearance of stone edging ; and its outline is so simple and neat as to be thoroughly unobtrusive, though perfectly efficient. With an edging of this sort the walks can be kept clean with the least possible trouble by adopting the system of dressing them with salt, which is always a risky experiment when live edgings are made use of. This edging brick is 18 inches long, 5 inches high, and 5 inches wide at the sole, 2J inches being set above ground. Its great merit is the combination of elegance with durability and efficiency which it presents. This durability, of course, is due to the particular material of which it is made. — " Florist." Koyal Horticultural Society.— The present Council came into office in the belief that their predecessors had exaggerated the difficulties of the society, and that they were sacrificing the Society's interest in arranging with Her Majesty's Commissioners, in con- sideration of relief from rent and debenture interest (estimated to amount in all to about £5,400 a year), to admit exhibition visitors free. They then adopted the opposite theory, that the difficulties of the Society had not been fully shown to them. My object now, how- ever, is to urge a change which I believe would conciliate country horticulturists, and make them join and support the Society, and one that would not injure the recreation ground of the resident Fellows. This is, to let the resident fellows and those wanting the use of the gardens pay their present subscriptions, and admit country and other Fellow horticulturists to Chiswick at all times, but at South Kensington to shows and meetings only, charging them a guinea subscription. I believe that if this plan were properly worked by country committees, thousands of new Fellows would join, and then the Society would be a national one. Unless some means are taken for bringing about this result, immensely valuable land, bought with the peoples' money, cannot long be allowed by those who are responsible for its use for public objects to continue of the very small public utility the South Kensington Gardens now are. — Geokge F. Wilson, Heatherbank, Weybridqe Heath. THE LATE MR. BUCKLEY. In your last week's "Obituary" you briefly alluded to the death'of our old friend, Mr. Buckley, who, during a period of thirty-three years, was in the employ of Messrs. Rollisson & Sons, for the greater part of which time he held the responsible position of manager at their Tooting nurseries. So intimately was he connected with the botanical reputation of that establishment, that I think a more lengthened notice than that which appeared at p. 82 will be acceptable to many of your readers, not a few of whom must have been personally acquainted with the subject of your remarks. He was born and served his apprenticeship in Lancashire, whence he removed to Woburn, where, under Mr. Forbes, and surrounded by the botanical associations of that fine old place — then noted for its collections of Willows and Grasses — ho found full scope for the develop- ment of his abilities. Having resided there for some four or five years, during the latter portion of which he acted in the capacity of foreman, he removed to the Tooting Nurseries, where he remained in active employ- ment till seized by paralysis, about twelve months ago. Singularly enough, this seizure was almost simultaneous with that of his friend Mr. Gibson, whom he only survived a few weeks. Endowed with a wonder- fully retentive memory and great powers of close observation, and having a thorough loye for his profession, he was long admitted to be one of the most accomplished plantsmen in the trade. He was invariably willing to impart his knowledge to others, as everyone who has had the pleasure of a walk round the nurseries under his guidance will be ready to admit. Unobtrusive and reticent to a degree on every other point, the mention of any botanical novelty at once touched a sympathetic chord, and the wealth of a well-stored mind was soon revealed. Further, he was a pretty frequent contributor to some of the horticultural periodicals. Mr. Buckley did not marry until late in life, and we regret to say that, owing to his protracted illness, ho leaves a widow and three young children almost wholly unprovided for. _ I sincerely trust, therefore, that some of his London friends may bo induced to act on their behalf, and commence a subscription, to which I, for one, shall be most happy to contribute. Botanic Gardens, Hull. J. C. Niven. NOTES AND QUESTIONS. [The following notes and questions came to hand, or were answered too late for insertion in their several departments.] Hardiness of Dracaena indivisa.— This has withstood uninjured the some- what severe frost which we lately experienced in the County Wicklow.— T. P. T. . Scotch Fir Seeds.— Will some of your correspondents kindly give me a hint as to the best time for sowing these, and how they ought to be treated ? — Hobtus. Wintering Echeveria secunda glauca— Where space indoors is limited for the accommodation of plants of "this succulent during winter, they can be wintered equally safe by planting them out on a sloping bank formed under a south wall. A little dry hay shaken over them will afford them ample pro- tection.—T. P. T., Wicklow. A Very Dwarf Mulberry. — The " Revue Horticole " describes a seedling Mulberry, raised by a M. Brun, which is remarkable for an extremely dwarf tufted habit. In three years the stem has not attained more than about 18 inches, while other seedlings of the same batch have inalike period attained a height of 9 or 10 feet. Williams's Early Prolific Dwarf French Bean.— This is about a week earlier than Sir Joseph Paxton and the Dark Dun, grown under the same circumstances. Last season I used Williams's Bean for my two earliest sowings out of doors, and in each case it was a week in advance of all others. — R. M., Cheadle. Red-skinned Flour-ball Potato.— This is, undoubtedly, the best late Potato in cultivation. It has produced with us this last season a sack of 150 lbs., or 3 bushels, to the square perch, and scarcely abad one could be found among them. It must be borne in mind that it is a very late variety, and should not be used until the very last, when it will be found to be quite dry and of excellent flavour.— Thos. P. Tubhee, Killruddery, Bray, Wicklow. Twisting Pot Vines. — We grow here about a dozen pot Vines for table decoration. The trellis, a simple one, has four upright wires, and is surrounded at the top with a hoop. The Vines are tied round this ; and, when they are started, I find the twist to be beneficial rather than otherwise, as every bud starts ; whilst others, simply laid down, have not broken so regularly ; thus showing that Vines can hardly be twisted too much. — R. Gilbebt. All the Year Bound Lettuce.— This is a valuable winter Lettuce. Last January I saw two beds of it in excellent condition. These were about 4 feet wide and perhaps 20 yards long. A wider alley than usual ran between them, and they were raised higher than is usually the case. This, and the soil being a good deal mixed with ashes, gave the plants a naturally dry bed, and one unfavourable to the attacks of slugs. — M. Geraniums for Indoor Winter Decoration.— Whatever may be said against " hideous miles of scarlet Geraniums," it must at least be granted that the scarlet Geranium fills a gap in the greenhouse at seasons of the year when few other decorative plants are in bloom. I hear from eye witnesses that Mr. Pearson's Geraniums have been a perfect sheet of bloom all through December. My seedlings were very lovely till an accident took place with the boiler, and the frost got into my little greenhouse. There are still some fine blooms out, and, as an artist, I may say that no flower has such a range of exquisite tones of colour as our Zonal Geranium. — F. M. The Soap Plant (Chlorogalum pomeridianum).— This plant, though somewhat rare, can scarcely claim to be classed among the novelties of the current year. It is now six or more years since I saw it growing in the County Cork at Rhin Rhonan, the residence of J. P. Ronayne, Esq., M.P., where it had been established for a considerable time, and was growing freely on a piece of rock-work. When travelling in California some years previously Mr. Ronayne collected and, on his return, carried home with him several bulbs of this plant. I may add that the collection of rock and Alpine plants brought together at Rhin Rhonan is one of the most varied and interesting with which I am acquainted. In the Botanic Gardens here the Chlorogalum has been growing for some years, and in one of them, the College Botanic Garden, I had more than once the pleasure of seeing it in flower, so that in these parts, at all events, it is no novelty. — A. B., Dublin. Hotbeds. — I have seen a good many of these ; but never one to which it was easy to apply fresh fermenting material without disturbing the plant bed. Is there any easy way of getting the warm manure under the bed ? — C. Richabdson. [Mr. Groom, Henham Hall, recommends hollow-bottomed beds, which, he says, are in every way superior to such as are solid. The plan which he adopts is to build up corner piers of brick to the required height, say about 18 inches in front and 24 inches at the back, and to lay strong bearers lengthways on these piers, and stout planks crosswise on the bearers to form a floor, leaving sufficient apertures for the heat to pass through. He then sets the frame on and puts into it about 3 inches of leaf mould to keep down the steam ; a load of strong fresh dung is now put under the frame, and enclosed with a lining of any sort of litter or garden refuse that may be at hand. In this way the heat is up and the bed fit for planting in less than a week, thus effecting a great saving of time; and the heat may be regulated to a degree. Frames set up in this way are useful all the year round for forcing Asparagus, early Potatoes, propagating bedding plants, for Cucumbers and Melons, and for growing young stock of stove plants during the summer.] The Large-flowered Hepatica angulosa Best— Lot me caution your correspondent Mr. Miles (see p. 82), who intends growing Hepatica angulosa in a pot, to be careful to get the large-flowered variety, for there are two. Some years ago, after Messrs. Backhouse had shown their splendid potful of Hepatica angulosa at South Kensington, I grew it, and, though hearing of flowers the Bize of a crown piece, could never produce them much larger than those of the old single blue, though my plants had the true angulosa leaves. At last I got some new plants, which, without any trouble, at once yielded very large flowers, and we have since had the two varieties blooming side by side. Hepaticas in our bed sow themselves, though we sometimes grow the seed in pans ; moBt of them are single pink flowers, but some of the seedlings are of a deeper and brighter pink than the old single Pink. With us, spring flowers are just coming into beauty ; the Christmas Rose and hardy Cyclamens of many colours came first; then Jasminum nudtflorum ; then the Winter Aconite, then Crocus Imperati, and the first of the Hepaticas. Mr. Dean's beautiful Primula auriculseflora was one of the first of our Primroses ; Lonicera fragrantissima is just coming into bloom, and Chimonanthus fragrans, and Scifia sibirica, have only, as yet, produced one or two blooms.— Geoeoe Wilson, Jlcatherbunk, Weybridge. New Varieties of Potatoes.— First-class Certificates have lately beon awarded by the Royal Horticultural Society to Snowflake and Alpha, the two newest Potatoes sent to England from the United.States by Messrs. Bliss. THE GAKDEN. 103 No. 168.] SATTOBAT, FEB. 6, 1875. [Vol. VII. " This is an art Which does mend nature : change it rather : The Art itself is Natuee." — Shakespeare. but DO VARIETIES WEAR OUT? Dr. Asa Gray has discussed this question with his usual ability. The point, be it noted, is not whether varieties change and break into other varieties that may possess additional vigour of constitution, and supersede existing varieties in the past or present, but whether they die of weakness or old age, and that without modification of form, size, colour, and con- stitution. Nor must we consider varieties exhibiting abnormal development of any particular part that may weaken them, notably such, for instance, as Wheat with ears of extraordinary length or weight ; Mangolds with a preponderating size of root compared with the short tufts of scanty leaves — the types most sought after by cultivators ; or Cauliflowers all heads, with little more than leaf enough to bend over and blanch those heads into greater tenderness and spotless whiteness — the form that delights the eyes of horticulturists ; but whether varieties with perfectly well-developed constitutions, and all their parts so proportioned as to maintain a normal and healthy vitality, do in fact die out of old age. There are numberless forces tending to drive out the old and to bring in the new ; consequently, many of the old varieties are con- stantly passing away. Take, for instance, garden Peas. Owing to the excitement caused by the present demand for new Peas, and by the many irreproachable kinds now cata- logued, many of the old favourites are disappearing altogether or reappearing under new names. Either way the identity of the variety is lost. But will any one affirm that Knight's Dwarf or tall Marrow, or British Queen, or Scimetar, showed any signs of disease, or were touched with the weakness or imbecility of old age ? No ; these varieties are as good and as vigorous as ever ; and such is the case with hundreds of other vegetables, plants, and flowers. Even the Golden Pippin Apple, which seemed at one time to have been given up as hopeless, has never been shown or grown in higher perfection than in the year 1871. It has no sign of decrepitude in leaf, branch, or fruit ; and the same holds good of Nonpareils, Ribston Pippins, and other fruits handed down to us from ancient times. Indeed, we find, on looking carefully into the notion that varieties die a natural death, that the idea has been based on a fallacy, thus — individuals die, therefore so also must varieties. On asking for proof, the assumed fact is thus met ; with the death of the individual the progeny of that individual perish also ; or, in other words, when the parent dies, the children also die. Grant this, and the death of the individual is, as a matter of course, the death of the variety ; but one can but marvel that an intellect, like that of the late Mr. Andrew Knight, could ever have found room for such a crotchet — the mere baseless fabric, not of a theory, but of a dream. And yet that he held this view is clear. Dr. Asa Gray quotes the fact from the " Philosophical Transaction " of 1S10, in which Mr. Knight propounded the theory, not merely of a natural limit to varieties from grafts and cuttings, but even that they would not survive the natural term of the seedling tree from which they were originally taken. With such views it is no wonder that he proclaimed the sure and speedy decadence of varieties. It could not be otherwise, if his premises were true. The marvel is, that he or anyone could have promulgated a statement so opposed to all history and experience of vegetation. And yet we find Mr. Sisley, who seems to have caught the falling mantle of Mr. Knight in this matter, maintaining that varietiesare subject to the same laws of life and death as individuals, inasmuch as they are individuals. If individuals, they are of such a type as to be endowed with the property of life and vigour in continuity. Doubt- less individual plants die, though whether really from old age or not is doubtful. The majority of them perish of star- vation. The soil is so thoroughly drained of food, their larder swept so clean by the spongioles or feeding points of the roots, that nothing is left to support the plant. Were it otherwise, I think Dr. Lindley somewhere ventured the opinion that there was no reason, in the nature of the life or constitution of a tree, why it should not live for ever. Trees do live for many centuries, and some writers have expressed a belief tha,t some of the Wellingtonias of California may have waved their proud heads over the far-reaching waters of the deluge. To admit the death of individual plants is one thing ; but to base upon this fact the argument that other plants, raised from scions or cuttings of the same plant, die with it, is quite another and a different one. If, as it appears, the theory of the wearing out of varieties is based upon the death of individuals, it must, as a matter of course," be given up. The death of indi- viduals runs parallel with the continuity of varieties, and, in fact, is an element in their stability and perpetuity. Dr. Asa Gray, while contesting the theory of the wearing out of varieties, draws a wide distinction between the stability of those raised from seeds and those propagated by buds, using the term in its widest sense as indicative of all means of increase other than by seed. Fortunately, too, he advances reasons for his conclusions — these are, that cross- fertilisation between the individuals of a species is Nature's mode of increase ; that self-fertilised species degenerate ; and, that old age brings on debility. Admitting the first, it is not obvious how cross-fertilisation can lie a security of stability; for the different varieties of a species are thus apt to be inter- mingled, and change of type or form is the result of the cross. And, as far as we are aware, Nature has made no provi- sion, physiological or otherwise, to ensure cross-breeding only between different plants of the same variety. As to old age, this argument could only have been started on the assumption that a variety is an individual, and subject to its laws aud con- ditions of weakness, decay, and death— an assumption that Dr. Asa Gray has just disposed of, by showing that individuals, by division, gain an increase, not a loss, of life or vital force. In a word, plants raised from buds are, to all intents and purposes, new plants, characterised by all the energy and force of life that are inherent in those raised from seeds. Further, it is by no means proved that self -fertilised species or varieties degenerate. Analogous instances in the animal kingdom even are not con- clusive. Where purity of strain is an object this has been the most frequent mode of perpetuating it ; and it is by no means certain that the vigour and longevity of plants have been reduced in consequence. Even if it were so, another statement of Dr. AsaGray's has assuredly not been proven, viz., that bud propa- gation is the closest possible kind of close breeding. This, which goes to the root of the matter, is by no means obvious. Propa- gation by buds is not breeding at all, in the ordinary sense of the word ; it is multiplication. Each bud is a plant, as it were, in embryo ; detach it from the parent and give it roots, and it is a plant in fact. It has undergone no degeneration, debility, or chano-e of any kind ; as it was in the parent, so it is now, with all the powers of the original plant regenerated and intensified by its altered conditions and its closer proximity to the earth. It is conceivable how propagation by seed may either reinforce or lower vital force in plants ; but it is not conceivable how bud propagation can be called close breeding, or how similar effects can follow in its train. Dr. Asa Gray quotes Mr. Darwin s brilliant discoveries in proof of his theory that cross-fertilisa- tion—being obviously Nature's favourite mode of increase, is a source of strength as well. The same author's hypothesis of parthenogenesis may be cited to prove that not only each bud of a plant, but each minute gemmule, has the entire potentialities ot the plant within it, and may reproduce the whole with an equality of power, circumstances permitting. In the multiplication ot varieties from seed, there maybe a loss or a gain ot vital force- in the multiplication by buds, that force remains constant, provided we propagate from healthy plants. Moreover, the disturbing effects of disease will be more potent in seed- lino- plants than in buds, inasmuch as seedlings are moulded in character and strength by the plant as a whole ; whereas buds are local centres of vitality, each with its own individu- ality, so that one bud may be strong, another weak — one healthy, and another diseased, when placed side by side. Hence, by the careful selection of buds, and the use ot those of normal strength and vigour, the variety is per- petuated with such certainty and constancy that not only is there little, but no perceptible change at all, on this score from 104 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 6, 1875. " the mills of the gods that grind so exceedingly slow " within the limits of our human experience. Within range of horticul- tural history, varieties cannot be said to have died out from sheer lack of vital force, weakness, or age. As to changes following in the track of alterations of climatal conditions and geological development, that is another and quite a distinct question that hardly affects the present enquiry. D. T. Fish. FORCING ROSES. Those who have to lift their plants from open borders after this time of the year, must not expect many flowers, if any ; but rather aim at getting a good early growth, that they may have a supply next winter. Had the plants been potted early in November, they might have been forced into flower in April, and would have been in good condition for starting in November following. Select good vigorous plants from the borders, take them up with all the roots possible, prune them down to one or two buds, and pot them in 10-inch or 12-inch pots, cleanly but not too deeply crocked, usinc a good friable loam and a little sand, and for Teas and tender-growinf sorts generally, rich leaf mould may be added. After potting, the plants should be watered and stored in a cold pit or house, where it is only necessary to exclude frost, till about the beginning of March. At this date they may be started in a very gentle temperature of about 45° at night and from 50° to 60°, or 65°, by day, according as the weather is cold, dull, or sunny. The plants must be kept near the glass and well exposed to the light, taking care at the same time to admit air freely at all times, consistently with the proper tempera- ture and the avoidance of draughts; in fact, they may be treated like late Peaches generally. Where the shoots are too thick, or crowded, they may be thinned out ; greenfly must bo kept down by frequent gentle smokiugs with tobacco-paper and syringing, and mildew by slight dustings of flowers of sulphur. Water must be liberally supplied to the roots as growth progresses — at no time should they bo allowed to get parched ; but liquid manure will not be required for plants so recently potted in fresh soil. The strongest shoots may be pinched to equalise the vigour ; but, as a rule, pot Roses, grown for flowers and not for exhibition, require little atten- tion other than watering and keeping clean. By the beginning of June they may be turned out of doors and plunged in ashes on a south or west border. Here they will require watering only, and any blooms they make, either before or after this date, should be pinched off. By September, though the points of the shoots may be greeD, the wood will be ripe enough at the base, and the plants should be pruned to one or two buds ; and before frost sets in they must be moved into a cold house until they are wanted. Whether the plants have been bought or prepared at home, the directions for forcing are the same. Like most other plants grown for forcing everything depends on the preparatory treatment above described. Early ripened and early pruned Roses force easily into flower. Force gently, ventilate regularly, keep the plants clean, give them plenty of light, and make the most of sun heat ; 45° by night, and from 50° to 55' by day, is a high enough temperature at first, till the buds are about an inch long, when 5Q may be added to these figures. When the buds appear, the night temperature may be raised to 60°, and it may go up to 75° with sunhcat, and these temperatures should not be exceeded during the winter and early spring months. Later in the season, when the days are longer and finer, and when more air can be given they will stand, and even be benefited by, a much higher temperature ; but earlier batches should not be pushed too hard where a healthy growth and good foliage, upon which the next year's success depends, is desired. When the plants have done flowering, and have to be moved to make room for a succession, they must not be forgotten, as they often are, for it must be borne in mind, that on their treatment after this date the next year's supply of Roses depends. From this time they must be treated to an airy summer temperature, and carefully watered — occasionally with weak liquid manure- till about the beginning of summer, when they may be set out of doors and plunged in ashes as before ; but this time behind a north wall, as plants forced early are only too disposed to come away before their time, and the object is to keep them back. The bottom buds will, however, not break till they are pruned, which should bo delayed till September, and after- wards they may be treated as in the year previous, only that before forcing the surface soil should be removed from the pots and a rich top dressing given, consisting of good loam, well-rotted cowdnng, and a little bone dust. When the plants get weak after a few years' forcing, they may be restored to the border again, and their plaoo filled with fresh plants. By following this practice, and always forcing the earliest first, a continual succession of good plants may be kept up. j_ g_ NOTES OF THE WEEK. A beautiful variety of Narcissus Tazetta has become naturalised in many parts of Cornwall, and is just now flowering profusely at St. Michael's Mount and elsewhere in that county. Through the kindness of Mr. Tyerman, who has sent us fresh speci- mens of it, we find that it is a variety often met with in gardens under the name of Luna. The scape bears from six to eight flowers, which are of snowy whiteness, with delicate pale lemon, coloured cups. If any of our readers who may be staying at Mentone or Nice would favour us with specimens of Narcissi, which will now be blooming freely at both places, we shall be greatly obliged. Tree Ferns are nearly all of elegant and pleasing habit, and one deserving these eipithets in a high degree is Cyathea insignis, a native of Jamaica and other West Indian islands. A magnificent specimen of this species recently attracted admiration in the tropical conservatory at Kew. It has fronds upwards of 12 feet in length, the stipes or stalks of which are densely clothed with long glossy scales. M. Van Hulle writes to us to say that some seeds of the Victoria regia and Euryale were kept in a dry place ready to show to visitors who might be curious to inspect seeds of these aquatic plants. These seeds had remained dry all the summer of 1874 ; but about a month since one of the workmen threw them into a glass of water, where the Euryale germinated, and has gone on since growing satisfactorily. Here, then, is an instance of Euryale seed preserving its germinating powers, without water, during an entire season. TnE laying ont of that portion of the Thame3 Embankment which lies between Outram's statue and Whitehall Gardens is being rapidly proceeded with. Within the last week or two, a large number of beds have been formed and heavily manured ; the founda. tions of many of the paths have been put in, and a very considerable number of trees planted. The portion of laud on the west side towards Whitehall, which was reserved by the Crown when the first arrangements with the Metropolitan Board of Works were made, has been partitioned off, and the Crown has undertaken to erect an ornamental wall at the western boundary of the garden, which, it is expected, will be opened in May next. Mu. Tyerman, of Penlee, Tregoney, Cornwall, has sent us some twenty or thirty species of outdoor flowers in beautiful condi- tion. Among the most striking are Narcissus minor and N. Tazetta, two varieties of Anemone coronaria, Iris stjdosa, and the rich purple and yellow I. reticulata, Saxifraga crassifolia, several kinds of Grape Hyacinths (Muscari) , Habrothamnus fascicu. latus, Veronica Andersoni variegata, Cytisus fragrans, Triteleia uniflora, Grevillea rosmarinifolia, New Holland Daisy, known in gardens as Vittadinia trilobata, and others, now flowering in the open air in that county. In the current number of the " Botanical Magazine " is a coloured figure of Senecio macroglossus, a large flowered scandent species, closely resembling the common Wood Ivy in its habit of growth. The flowers, which are eight-rayed, are about 2 inches across, and of a clear yellow. Dr. Hooker states that it is the largest-flowered species of the extensive genus to which it belongs — a genus which contains nearly a thousand species, of which our common Groundsel (S. vulgaris) is a well-known example. In point of size, however, we are inclined to think that the beautiful purple-rayed, golden- eyed S. pulcher (" Bot. Mag.," t. 5,959), introduced to our gardens by Mr. J. Tyerman, of Penlee, Tregoney, is still larger, and certainly far more showy. S. macroglossus is similar in habit to S. mikanioides (German Ivy), a plant largely used in Germany, Russia, and America, as a pot plant, and for training ai'onnd the cornices of apartments. A lecture on Fungi in relation to disease was delivered on Wednesday evening last by the Rev. M. J. Berkeley, in the council room of the Royal Horticnltural Society at South Kensington. The lecturer explained the many theories advanced by medical men and Fnngologists in relation to the cholera and other diseases, and pointed out that a national school of scientific research is much to be desired in this country, on the same plan as those in Germany and elsewhere. The reverend lecturer alluded to the fermentation which takes place in flesh wounds, and stated that in many cases this fermentation or decomposition is due to the agency of Fungoid spores, which are so minute as to be borne to any part of the globe by the slightest breeze; hence the use of cotton -wool or other covering to exclude these atoms, and the great care which is now taken by surgeons to disinfect their amputating implements with carbolic acid before performing any operation. In conclusion, Mr. Berkeley alludod to the baneful effects of the Ergot of the common Rye, which, if admin- istered during failing health, has the singular property of causing the human body to bocomo ulcerated in a very alarming manner, and cattle not unfrequeutly are injured in a similar way by eating Rye Grass affected by this Fungus. Feb. 6, 1875.] THE GARDEN. 105 THE FRUIT GARDEN. MELON CULTURE. (THE AFRICAN MELON.) We adopt the same routine of cultivation both in pits and houses, and all varieties are treated alike, with the exception of the African kind, which is distinguished from all others by the size of its fruit and foliage, and which requires rather more space than any of the others. Our Melon-house, from which we generally get our earliest and latest crops, is heated by means of a flow and return pipe on each side. It is a low, broad, span-roofed structure, in which there is a central bed 6 feet wide, and side beds 3 feet wide, each bed being furnished with a flow and return pipe for bottom heat when required. We only take one crop from each set of plants, as I never could see any advantage in keeping them longer. When preparing for the plants, we fill the beds, nearly level with their tops, with fermenting stable manure packed very firmly, iu order that it may give a gentle lasting heat, which is supplemented by that from the hot-water pipes, whenever it falls below 85°. On the fermenting material we place a layer of turf from an old pasture, and on that about a foot in thickness of the same material roughly chopped up. This is rammed down as firmly as mallets and rammers can do it. As soon as the soil is thoroughly warmed, we plant one healthy young plant under Sir S. Baker's African Melon contrasted with Scarlet Gem. each rafter, and support it with a stake, until it reaches the trellis, which is about 15 inches from the glass. Under a brisk moist temperature, the plants quickly attain the desired height, when they are stopped, and the side shoots trained out horizon- tally. They soon afterwards show fruits on every shoot, about a dozen of which are allowed to set, care being taken to secure a somewhat dry atmosphere until they commence to swell, when five or six of the best should be selected and the rest removed. At this stage of their growth we always top dress the beds with loam and a little decayed pigeons' dung. While the crop is swelling we give tepid water in abundance, as, if Melons are once allowed to get dry, they are permanently injured; but as soon as they show signs of ripening, water is withheld and a dry cool atmosphere maintained. Green or white-fleshed kinds are the favourites here, Gilbert's Improved, Victory of Bath, and Green Fleshed being excellent varieties and heavy croppers. I may mention that the African variety produced fruits each weighing from 8 to 18Hbs., and that the average weight of fruit produced by each plant of other sorts has been 24 lbs., or six fruits of 4 lbs. each. As we only grew the African kind as a curiosity, we limited the number of fruits on each plant to three, so as to see what size they would attain, and they hung on the plant quite a month after they were fully ripe. The universal opinion of all good judges of Melons is, that this variety might successfully compete, both for size and flavour, with any other in existence — even in this excep- tionally favourable season for Melons. James Gkoom. Henhain Gardens, Suffolk. THE QUEEN PINE-APPLE. If the St. Michael Pines continue to arrive annually, and in increasing abundance during the autumn, winter, and spring months, it is quite evident that Pine-growing in England during that period may be discontinued, except where it is carried on for the pleasure of the thing, for the St. Michael Pines are much larger and better than the general sample of home-grown winter fruit, and they can be bought cheaper than the latter can be produced, or at least as cheap. Should this happen, our Pine-growing will be confined to the summer supply, and by preference we shall have to fall back upon the Queen, as this is now so well adapted for early forcing, and, as regards appearance and flavour, is undoubtedly one of the very best. Unfortunately the Queen has got a notorious reputation for being a shy fruiter, or, rather, missing to fruit just at the time it is wanted — a character which I am sure it does not deserve, for, according to my uniform experience it is one of the most certain in this respect. Where it behaves otherwise it must be due to the treatment, and is not the plant's fault. The Queen deserves a good character from me at least, for -during the last nine years I have grown about thirty fruiters annually (never more) of that variety for a special purpose in summer, and it has never failed to " show " at the desired time. Sometimes one or two plants miss, but, as a rule, nearly the whole fruit yearly at the same time. I have been a frequent exhibitor of Pines at the summer shows in different parts of the country, and I have always had Pines for the purpose while watching the supply for the table at the same time, and not unfrequently have had as many as from six to nine fruits out at once for exhibition. I merely mention this to show that my limited number of fruiting plants must have come up to time, or I could not have done as much. On several occasions I sold seven or eight of these fruits for 21s. each, after they had been some days exhibited, as they were not wanted at home. This season we started the half of our Queens in December, and not one in the row has missed, whilst the remaining few look as if they would bolt also when wanted. What can be accomplished with a dozen plants can also be done with a hundred. I attri- bute my success in getting the plants to throw up so surely to firm potting, and getting well-ripened plants by autumn in the first instance, but chiefly to starting them gradually, as regards bottom-heat. I am so confident that a sudden rise in the bottom-heat — say, from 65° or 70° to 90° at once — will cause a miss, that I would undertake to make the best batch of Queens I ever saw, or most of them, miss fruit by such treatment, unless the fruit-buds were almost in sight. Here, our Queens never experience a bottom-heat below 70Q and it is only so low for one month. When started, it is raised very gradually to 75°, and this is never exceeded till the fruit is fairly up, when it is slowly pushed onto 82°, and this figure is never exceeded by fire-heat. It will be perceived that, in this practice, I am simply following the usual rule laid down with regard to Vines and other fruit. No one would think of start- ing Vines at a summer temperature at first. With Peaches such treatment would be considered madness, with forced Strawberries it would be ruin ; and the same may be said of other plants. Why, therefore, Pines should be made an exception I cannot see ; but it is so, for a jump of 20° of both top and bottom-heat at starting time is the general practice. Only lately I saw it recommended to start, at a bottom-heat of 90°, and a maximum top-heat of 85°, Queens that had been at rest the week before at a temperature 20° or more below these figures. The writer had much to say about Queens missing, and no wonder. Nature affords no parallel for such treatment, and both practice and theory prove it to be wrong. The theory practically inculcated by all good Pine growers is that the embryo fruit bud is perfected with the close of the summer's growth before the plant goes to rest, and that when the plants 106 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 6, 1875. are started the fruit shows itself with the first indications of growth. This, I apprehend, is the meaning of the oft-repeated advice, " get the plants well matured by autumn, and choose the best-ripened and thickest-necked plants for fruiting." If the fruit is not there we cannot get it there until growth is again checked by severe and unnatural means, to which gardeners never resort if they can help it. Now, assuming this theory to be correct, viz., that the embryo fruit bud is matured in autumn, what treatment is most likely to promote its healthy development when the plants are started — a sudden acceleration of temperature or the reverse P According to physiologists it requires a higher temperature to bring plants into leaf than into flower, and when they are hurried in the earlier stages of growth it is at the expense of the crop of fruit. This all gardeners know to be the truth in the case of fruit trees, as in the Peach and Strawberry already mentioned, and that the same law holds good with the Pine there can hardly be the least doubt. If it requires as high a temperature to start it as it does to swell its fruit, it is an exception to all other plants ; but that it is not so I am satis- fied from the experience above recorded. Some years ago I was in a garden where some hundreds of fruiting Pines were grown, and the gardener complained grievously of the number of " misses." Quite two-thirds of his plants had missed, and he believed in a " smart bottom-heat to begin with." His Queens, both the first and second lot, had been started some three or four months, and looked as if their fruiting would continue to be a matter of expectation for ever. It is a serious misfortune to a gardener when a batch of Pines is lost in this manner, and any explanation that can be thrown upon the subject will, no doubt, be welcome. J. S. W, SHANKING OF GEAPES. This disease is very general amongst Grapes. It is the very worst of all the affections to which Vines are liable. If attacked with any kind of insect, even by the Phylloxera, mildew, or any other pest, the fruit can nsually be made use of in some form or other, bat when the disease is shanking it is utterly worthless. Some think their Grapes are shanked when they are not ; others, who wonld fain escape the fell destroyer, think shanking has not set in when it has. I have often met with amateur Grape growers who could not under- stand how many of their Grape berries, when apparently ripe, were found to be quite sour ; these were shanked. Shanked fruit is easily known ; but that the disease may be the more readily detected, I will briefly describe the unmistakeable indications of it. The stalk of the berry first becomes yellow, then brown, and lastly quite black and why. This is seldom confined to a single berry — it begins at the point of the bunch which itascends. Sometimes only a shoulder is affected, and in that case it can be cut away, leaving the remainder sound, but in general it affects the whole bunch ; after the stalks blacken, the berries shrivel to a greater or less extent, when they undergo a fermenting process which makes them sour and more unpalatable than when quite green. It rarely shows itself until after the berries are stoned and have started to swell a second time ; but after that it may appear at any moment, even when the fruit has hung for a long time quite ripe. The first crop on young Vines sometimes shanks, but the evil is more generally confined to old ones which have been planted out for many years. The future well-being of young Vine3 is very doubtful when shanking appears among their fruit, as, if once attacked, the disease usually returns afterwards, unless curative measures are at once taken. I have often observed that early and quickly-ripened Grapes do not shank so much as late ones that hang long before arriving at maturity. I have indeed rarely seen a shanked berry in Grapes ripe iu May or June. This I consider to be owing to the warmth applied to the roots of early Vines, a fact which appears to afford proof that a cold state of the roots is the primary cause of shanking. It is about the month of October, or sometimes earlier if the season has previously been wet, that shanking begins to show itself, and this is the time, just before winter protection is put on, when the outside borders become excessively wet, and consequently cold. I venture to think that if Viae borders were protected earlier, and more generally, there would be fewer shanked Grapes. It is before the borders get saturated with autumn rains that coverings should be applied, i.e., when the soil is dry and warm. Cultivators are generally particular about having their early Vine bordors not only protected above, but also supplied by heat from underneath, and this until -the fruit is fully ripe. Why, therefore, should not tho Bamo caro bo taken in the case of autumn bordors. I do not mean that the soil should be heated artificially, but simply that it should have such protection as will keep the outside roots at the same temperature as that in which the stems are inside. Badly drained borders are in no way different from those exposed to cold rains in an unprotected state. Such borders are never dry, either in autumn or winter, even when covered early in the season. Some attribute shanking to over restriction in the way of foliage, but that I imagine is a mistake. Then again it is well known that shanking seldom affects Grapes produced early by Vines in pots. These are as much restricted in their growth as any Vines could possibly be. With such evidence before us, it is likely that a cold damp state of the soil about the roots is the cause of Grapes shanking. The preventive therefore is well-drained borders and early and thorough surface mulching. J. M. BOUGHT VINES BETTER THAN HOME-GROWN ONES. I can assure Mr. Churchill that my statement (see p. 45), that many skilful Grape-growers fail to grow their own pot Vines successfully, is correct — a fact of which I have had ample proof. I can see nothing discreditable in gardeners buying pot Vines at establishments in which their culture has been made a speciality, and iu which, on that account, they are able to grow them better than is generally done in private places. In speaking of cutting Grapes from pot Vines iu April and May, and giving the total cost of two dozen fruiting pot Vines at £21, does Mr. Churchill imagine that he is proving the buying of pot Vines to be an expensive affair ? He is correct about the cost ; but, as he is silent about remuneration, perhaps you will allow me to supplement his calculations with reference to that matter. It is not the original cost to which I look for the value of an article, but to the actual worth of the produce. New Grapes are valuable in April and May. The poorest fruiting pot Vine will bear at least 10 lbs. of Grapes, which at the very lowest price are worth 10s. per pound. This brings the return for the £21 to £120 j and, deducting the "trade" price (£99), a good sum is left to cover the sundry expenses. The prin. cipal expense in forcing winter Grapes is the fuel ; but, as a rule, the pot Vines are grown in spare corners of structures heated for other subjects, which would generally otherwise be empty ; therefore the cost of firing cannot be wholly charged to the pot Vines. The weights of the Elvaston Castle bunches are doubtless correct ; but I may inform your correspondent that I know a trade grower who is in the habit of fruiting the weakest of his canes after his regular customers have had their pick, and yet ho cuts bunches from them weighing 3\ lbs. J. Muib. Mr. Muir is wrong in saying that gardeners in private establish- ments cannot grow pot Vines as well as nurserymen can. I have a quantity now of last year's growth from which I expect our earliest Grapes in April. Some of them only struck from eyes last spring are showing ten and twelve bunches each; others, two years old, have shown as many as twenty bunches. These canes, I was told in July last by a trade grower, were being kept too damp, a statement to which I replied, " come and see them in April," and I hope he will do so. I trust that Mr. Gilbert will give us his experience on this subject ; and, as Mr. Muir has cast the first stone at us private growers, let us show him that we can produce as good pot Vines in our own quiet way, as the nurserymen can do in their mysterious fashion. W.M. Irvixe. Qlossop Place, Manchester. FOREIGN AND ENGLISH GROWN PEARS. The large Channel Island dessert Pears shown at Kensington and other places have given riso to the question of the compar-ative quality of this fruit and that grown in England. This point is frequently mooted by those who see both at the exhibitions, and who read such conflicting statements respecting them in the gardening papers, and the question scarcely admits of a positive reply as regards all the varieties usually grown in England and France or the Channel Islands. Some of the largest varieties, such as Duchesse d'Angonleme, Beurre Diel, Chaumontel, and Van Mons Leon le Clerc, are bettor in texture and flavour when grown in France or the Channel Islands than when they are grown in England. But if we come to the smaller varieties — for instance, Marie Louise, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Seckle, Doyenne du Cornice, Winter Nelis, Comte de Lamy, Josephine de Malines, Thompson's, Brown Beurre, Knight's Monarch, and others, I make bold to assert that these, which maybe taken as representatives of the best Pears in existence, are of better quality when grown in England than any produced abroad. This is not a hasty conclusion formed upon insufficient data, but upon extended practical experience, Feb. 6, 1875.] THE GARDEN. 107 close observation, and comparison, not of a single locality, but of the produce of many parts of the kingdom . Judging Pears. I would observe that, although we hear so much about the influences of climate upon hardy fruits in the different parts of England (and I am ready to admit that its effects aro great) , yet these climatic influences upon the quality of the fruit of the Pear are not nearly so great as that produced by the difference in soils ; and it is to this difference that I attribute the superiority of the best English-grown Pears over any produced elsewhere. Prom the finer appearance on the one hand, and superior quality on the other, it becomes a somewhat difficult and unpleasant duty to judge between the home-grown and these foreign Pears on the exhibition table ; and it would require a great deal of moral courage on the part of the judges to give the preference to quality over size and general appearance. I maintain, however, that these collections of large coarse Pears have no more right to take precedence of smaller fruit of finer texture and better flavour, than Trebbiano and Barbarossa Grapes would have in being placed before Muscats and black Hamburghs. It would, I am sure, be a positive infliction, even to an indiscriminate lover of fruit, to bo compelled to eat these grand-looking, coarse-textured, flavourless examples of Beurre Clairgeau, and others which are little better, upon whose appear- ance alone the awards are made. The sooner the matter is looked at from a common. sense point of view the better ; for it is difficult to see why one standard of excellence should be correct for all kinds of dessert fruit except the Pear, for which another and new one has to be adopted, unless fashion alone is leading us astray. When such things as these enormous cooking Pears, Uvedale's St. Germain, looking like Swede Turnips, are made to do duty on the occasion of large dinner parties, it is not easy to forsee the end. Pine-looking coarse fruit may be tolerated at exceptional times ; but if a gardener were to send it on ordinary occasions to his employer's table, he would most likely have them consigned to the pigs, and the trees that produced them removed. Prom the day that appearance is preferred to quality at our fruit shows, these exhibitions will cease to promote the real advancement of fruit culture. No wonder that the complaints of exhibitors of the splendid collection of English grown Pears seen at South Keusington were loud at being compelled to show against the Cliannel-Island-grown fruit ; they naturally felt that they were labouring under an insurmountable dis- advantage in climate for producing fruit so fine in appearance, but were aware that their own were greatly superior in edible qualities, which unquestionably should command the preference. I looked through the exhibition in vain for that finest flavoured of all Pears, the Seckle, and could not meet with a single dish — the exhibitors evidently being under the impression that its small size would count against them ; yet I well recollect the time when for single dishes this variety had a separate class made for it, no other sort being able to compete with it in flavour. With few exceptional varieties, Pears when grown large are not so highly flavoured according to their respective kinds as when they are small or moderate in size. This I have repeatedly proved in different soils and widely separated localities ; in seasons when such sorts as Louise Bonne, Marie Louise, or others of fine quality bore only a thin crop, and were consequently much larger than when the trees were heavily laden, the fruit from the same trees bore no comparison for high flavour in the large as compared with their smaller state. The question has lately been asked as to the comparative flavour of fruit produced on walls and on standard trees. An answer to this requires to be somewhat qualified. In some parts of England, more especially in the north, a particular variety will succeed well on a wall ; but not as a standard. For instance, the excellent Pear Passe Colrnar does well in some situations on walls, but the fruit is poor, gritty, and liable to crack on a standard. In localities where varieties of the best quality will do well, both on walls and as standards, the fruit produced by the latter, although generally much smaller, is far better flavoured. This I have invariably found to be the case in different parts of the country. Best Kinds of Pears. In planting Pears, very great mistakes are generally made by trying too many varieties, especially of such kinds as ripen in the autumn. It is no uncommon occurrence to find, even in well managed gardens, four times the number of sorts necessary, all ripe during the latter part of October and November, and when Christmas comes there is a scarcity. Winter Nelis is one of the very best Pears in cultivation — tender, juicy, and finely flavoured, coming in when Pears begin to be scarce, about the beginning of the year — and with good management will afford a succession for six weeks. The tree has an excellent constitution, is a free and regular bearer (in this it has few equals), and will do well on a wall in almost any part of England, where Pears can be fairly grown ; and yet, with all its good qualities and the price it commands, it is seldom met with. It is one of the very first fruits I should recommend for planting on the cottagers' gable or the walls of a farmhouse ; in fact, I know cottagers whose single tree goes a long way towards paying the rent. Where this Pear will succeed as a standard it should be largely grown for market purposes ; and where Pears or any other fruit are grown for sale, the best course to follow is to confine oneself to a few kinds that possess the properties of a healthy constitution, a free disposition in bearing, good quality in the fruit, and if in season when the market is not overstocked with numerous varieties, it will be all the better. As I have repeatedly urged, if there be one thing more than another in rural economy that we lack, it is the extended culture of hardy- fruit. So far as the farmer and cottager are concerned, except in the principal Apple-growing districts, the south of the kingdom is far behind the north in the attention paid to this important branch of industry. Amongst the smaller and more numerous holdings in tho northern counties, notwithstanding the disadvantages of climate, the orchard is looked upon as of more importance, and is less frequently absent than in the south. The six following kinds of Pears I should recommend for planting largely : — Williams's Bon Chretien, a good Pear, and free bearer ; Beurre de Capiaumont, a good melting sort, and an immense cropper ; Marie Louise, a Pear that for general excellence is not surpassed, will grow and bear well over a wide range of the kingdom, doing well as a standard even in the northern counties ; LouiBe Bonne, of Jersey, equally good in every way, but smaller fruit than the last ; Winter Nelis, already described ; Brown Beurre, one of the very best late Pears, a good grower and free bearer, but will not succeed as a standard in all parts of the country. Apples. The following are half-a-dozen Apples that for free bearing and general excellence cannot be surpassed : Lord Suffield, a large, good, early, and free.bearing kind for cooking, and one that will succeed in any soil or situation where Apples will grow at all ; Blenheim Pippin, large bearer, and one that keeps well, and excellent alike for dessert or culinary purposes ; Dumelow's Seedling, large-sized fruit, heavy bearer, good keeper, and one of the best cooking sorts in existence ; Cox's Orange Pippin, a most excellent dessert Apple, a good keeper and freo bearer ; Yorkshire Greening, an excellent culinary Apple, free bearer, and fair keeper ; Aifriston, one of the latest keeping culinary sorts, large, a good bearer, and excellent. The season for planting is fast drawing to a close. The situation selected should, if possible, be fairly sheltered, otherwise the bloom is more likely to suffer through spring frosts, as also the fruit by strong winds. The soil should be of fair depth and medium consistency — neither too heavy nor too light ; of the two extremes the latter is tho worst. There must be no stagnant water in the soil ; consequently, if wet, it must be drained. A moderately open sub-soil is the best. If of fair quality, the ground should be trenched eighteen inches deep. The application of manure in the preparation of the land has been recommended by some writers ; but no one who has had practical experience in the cultivation of these fruits is likely to advise such a process. Land tb.at requires manure in the preparation for planting Apples and Pears is not fit for growing them, and con. sequently, Bhould not be turned to such purpose ; the greatest difficulty experienced in the cultivation of these fruits in private gardens where culinary vegetables grow is with the manure tho latter receive, which induces over.luxuriance in the trees. T. Baines. STRAWBERRIES IN LONDON MARKET GARDENS. The Strawberry is very largely cultivated around London, some hundred of acres being annually devoted to its growth. In tho Fulham Fields but very few Strawberries are grown ; indeed, Steel, Bagley, Humphrey, and other large growers in that fertile level, do not grow a single plant. The finest fields of this fruit that I have seen are at Isle worth, Twickenham, Acton, Deptford, and Chiswick; but, in addition to these, there are many small fields of the same all around the metropolis. Kent is famous for its Strawberries ; and gardeners in that county, living several miles from London send heavy consignments of this fruit to tho Borough and Covent Garden Markets. Unless the soil is suitable for this crop, market gardeners deem it more advantageous to devote their ground to other vegetables and fruits that are likely to be more remunerative. A good sandy loam, rich and moderately moist, is considered the best, as one that is high and dry is liable to become too parched by the summer's drought to ripen a good crop of fruit, and in a tenacious loam the plants are short-lived, and not very satisfactory. The varieties grown for market purposes are very numerous, every grower having his own chosen sorts ; bnt the following are universal favourites i — British Queen and Myatt's variety of the Jsame, 108 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 6, 1875. Myatt's Eliza, Mammoth, Eleanor, Keen's Seedling, Old Pine, Dr. Hogg, Doable-bearing, Elton, Kitley's Goliath, President, Sir J. Paxton, Sir Harry, and Spring Grove. Many of the gardeners have kinds saved from their own plantations for a series of years, and these have local names; in fact, a good deal of confusion exists respecting the nomenclature of Strawberries in market gardens. One of the greatest recommendations that a punnet of Strawberries iu a fruiterer's shop-window can possess is to have the prefix " Myatt's " attached to its name. As soon as the fruit is picked from a plantation, the best of the young plants on the runners are selected for forming a new field, the runners being severed from the parent plants with the spade, so as to make the young plant solely dependent upon itself, but permitting it to remain otherwise undisturbed till a fitting time arrives for its final transplanting ; or the young plants may at once be taken up, planted permanently, or in nursery lines, to await a convenient season. This separation of the young offsets some- times takes place in August, but more commonly in September, and, indeed, it is often delayed till October, when the spaces between the rows are about to be dug over and planted with Cabbage Lettuces. Having prepared the yonng plants, the ground for their reception — having been trenched and exceptionally well manured for the previous crops — is now dug ; and, if need be, re-manured, or the ground is sometimes manured and trenched immediately before planting. The ground being level, lines are marked across its surface 18 inches or 2 feet apart, and the Strawberries planted 18 inches asunder in the rows. Two feet is, as a rule, the recognised distance, especially for strong growing sorts, such as the British Queen, and, in some instances, an additional 6 inches is added to the last distance. Mr. Myatt, of Deptford, in making some of his plantations, lines off his ground lengthwise and crosswise in rows 18 inches apart, inserting a plant at every crossing of the lines, thus leaving them all 18 inches apart each way. After taking a first year's crop, he lifts every fourth row, so as to make an alley for the convenience of gathering from those left ; besides it affords the latter more light and room to grow, and the space is not lost, as he crops it with Lettuce or Colewort. Under the partial shade of fruit trees and between rows of fruit bushes the Strawberry is also much grown, although the most favourable situation for them is acknow- ledged to be an open one. When under fruit trees the distance apart of the plants varies, and depends on circumstances, but 20 inches or 24 inches is the average ; one, or at most two rows only are grown between the bushes. For the first year after planting Lettuces, Turnips, or other dwarfed crops are grown between the rows, and even in the winter of after years that space is not unoccupied ; although Mr. F. Dancer denounces intercropping Straw- berries, still he practises it himself. No care is exercised in their culture beyond hoeing and mulching, the latter being performed in May or June, or early in spring, and consists of the common stable manure, which, after it is washed by a shower, is quite clean. A common way of mulching is to scatter the manure over all the field, covering the plants as well as the ground. This being done early in spring, the foliage rises up through the litter fresh and strong. Gathering is done chiefly by woman, and in dry weather. The fruits are carefully packed into punnets, which are packed in large baskets for the convenience of waggon transit. After the fruit has been gathered the runners are cut away on either side of the rows, and all dirt taken immediately to the centre of the alleys, which are then dug and cropped. A plantation lasts good for three years, bearing sometimes more or less according to the land and the dry or wet summers. — " Field." THE KITCHEN GARDEN. NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE FRUIT GARDEN. Oranges. — These are now raised in such quantities, and of such excellent quality, in the neighbourhood of Galveston, Texas, that the importation of the fruit, it iB thought, will shortly cease at that port. Cherrv Trees Shedding their Fruit.— I have two Cherry trees (Governor Wood and Elton) on a south wall (in a cold wet climate) which blossom magnifi- cently every year, but the fruit never ripens. I have tried all sorts of plans to induce it to do so, such as watering freely whilst stoning, root pruning (they are very vigorous) , taking half the blossom off, but all to no purpose. Just as I think I really am going to have a crop they all fall. Can any of your readers help me in this matter ? — J. P., York. Raising Vines from Eyes in Turf.— In reference to Mr. Simpson'B remarks on this subject (see p. 80), allow me to say that I have " discovered " nothing whatever to induce me to " retract" a single statement which I have made as regards raising Vine eyes in turf; notwithstanding Mr. Simpson's eight years' experience at Dalkeith, I am assured that the young Vines omployed to plant the Lady Downes house there were raised from eyes in turf Mr. Simpson admits that when he was at Dalkeith Mr. Thomson planted Vines on turves when they were about 18 inches high. Surely, therefore, he must have raised Vine eyes in the same material. But, be that as it may, I can assure Mr. Simpson that I was practically acquainted with raising young Vines in turf before ever I know that a young Vine had been raised in that way about Wortley. Therefore the " plan which I now adopt " can scarcely be considered to have been borrowed from the system, " exactly as recommended " by him. — J. Mtjib. HOW" EARLY POTATOES ARE GROWN IN LANCASHIRE. I live in a part of the country where nearly a whole parish, and portions of several others, are occupied in growing early Potatoes in a manner scarcely known, I think, elsewhere, and certainly worthy of imitation where this vegetable is largely required. Cottagers, large and small farmers, and nearly every occupier of land, have more or less to do with their production ; and when I tell you that £70 was offered for the early Potatoes growing in a cottage-garden, on a piece of land that would not half support a cow, and that some of the growers have about a quarter of a mile, or upwards, of pits for the purpose (they are grown in pits), the affair must be considered important. So much so, that I have often wondered that the custom is so local. Perhaps when I mention that the neighbourhood where these early Potatoes are grown closely adjoins the district where the Potato was first cultivated in England, the subject mav be rendered more interesting. The early Potatoes are grown in turf pits, covered with straw screens that are made in a peculiar manner. To the making of these screens I shall first direct attention, and in order to render my description more intelligible, I have prepared a few sketches of the process. Let a carpenter make a strong frame, 6 feet by 4 feet, which shall, when shut, resemble a monster kind of book-cover iu two parts, which are hinged together strongly at the back, and fastened with hooks and staples where the book-clasps would be (fig. 1). The pieces forming the back, where the hinges are placed, and the front, where the bolts are used, should be of Oak, 2| inches thick, and 6 inches wide. A piece at each end, and two in the middle, also of Oak or Ash, Fig. 2. 1 inch thick, are let into the pieces forming back and front, leaving between the " boards " a space 3 inches deep, which is intended to contain the material of the screen, or what would be the letter-press of a volume. Procure two tressels on which to place the frame — each tressel, when in position, having a post, or stout piece of wood, 6 feet high, let firmly into the ground at its end (as fig. 3). When the frame is laid on the tressels, one part is turned up and fastened to the posts (as at fig. 2). On the part of the screen that lies on the tressels, prepared pieces of tough branches of wood, such as Hazel, Oak, dead Spruce, Larch, or any durable young wood, are laid, and on the toughness of the brush employed, depends the durability of the screen. Such spray as that of Beech, Elder, &c, is of no use, as it only lasts one season, and when the wood is worn out the screen is comparatively useless. Now place on the wood long Wheat straw, to the thickness Flsij. 6, 1875.] THE GARDEN. 109 of about an inch, equalising it over the whole frame, and making both ends full. More branches of a stronger kind are then laid on, keeping some of the straighter pieces for the outsides, and using three strong pieces cross-ways, to give strength. It is this middle enclosed brushwood that gives a firmness to the whole, and makes the screen as solid as a table- top. Add another layer of straw as before, on which place some of the flatter and lighter pieces of spray, as at first. Now bring down the turned-up part of the frame, and bolt together, as at fig. 1. Some amount of pressure will be required, owing to the mass of straw and wood employed, but this gives firm- Fig. 3. Fig. I. ness to the screen. Turn the whole of the screen up to the two posts (fig. 4), to which it is fastened at the top, the lower part still resting on the tressels. Tarred twine must now be in readiness, with two needles made of hard Oak, a foot long (fig. 7), with perforated eyes, and a man on either side of the screen passes them through in three or five places, as at E (fig. 4), exchanging needles at every stitch thus forming a kind of brace-stitch (fig. 5). When this operation has been completed, twist off the ends of the brush and straw flush with the ends of the frame, and you have the screen repre- sented in fig. 6. Although I have merely alluded to these Fig. 5. Fig. 6. Fig. 7. appliances as being largely used for early Potato growing, they are amongst the most useful articles in a garden. Placed at an angle of 45° over Celery rows, they would effectually protect them from wet and snow. Pound early-made hotbeds they are also invaluable. Supported on bricks over Parsley- beds they afford protection in all weathers, and neither stak- ing nor nailing down will be required. Early Vine borders may be thatched over with them, and. three or more placed around shrubs will afford them a neat and efficient protection. Many other uses will suggest themselves. Temporary pits to any extent may be made with them ; or, by laying them end Fig. S. to end, tied to stakes, they furnish capital places i or hardening- off bedding plants. They can be made by any labourer ; and stowed away, when dry, under a shed, will last for years. Where used extensively by the Potato growers they are made into stacks and slightly thatched over till wanted. I will now proceed to explain the method of raising the Potatoes. These are grown in pits made of turf. The best and most sheltered situations adjacent to the dwellings of the growers are chosen ; a good thick high hedge running east and west is a good site, or a sheltered piece of land is often wholly occupied by a series of pits running parallel to each other ; in short, naturally warm places are always chosen, and if they do not exist they are artificially made so. The pits are constructed of any required length from the sods on the place. The walls are 1 foot thick, 1 foot high at the back and front, and 4 feet high at the ends or gable ; they are about 8 feet wide ; a slight rail, answering to the ridge tile of a building, runs the whole length, supported, where necessary, by upright pieces, which, of course, run down the centre of the pit (fig. 8 A). A more slender rail, or even tar twine fastened to upright sticks, runs parallel with the ridge piece, midway between it and the walls, both at the back and front (as at B). Of course a slight rail is preferable to the twine, where obtainable. The use of the latter is to prevent the screen (one end, of course, resting on the wall and the other on the ridge piece) from s wagging downwards with the weight of wet or snow. I will now suppose the pit to contain a sufficient quantity of highly manured soil, and to be ready for planting. The most important item, however, in the whole affair is the prepai'ation of the sets, and this is peculiar and totally at variance with the directions usually given for the sprouting process of growing early Potatoes. The system generally advocated is to push the set into growth only for 2 or 3 inches, and then by exposure to green the sprout. In the method I am now endeavouring to describe the main point is to keep them white and tender, just as they would be when buried in the soil ; and the theory is, that this is effected by keeping the Fig. 9. Fig. 10. sprout continually growing from the first. Any greening or hardening is considered detrimental and a waste of time. On consideration, it will be evident that a Potato sprout that is greened and hardened before planting must become blanched and softened before it commences to grow. Laying down — ■ that is, putting the Potatoes to sprout — commences about Christmas Day. A hay loft or barn floor, or any spare room, is used for this purpose. Selected medium-sized whole Potatoes are used, and placed as close together as they can be packed singly. Bricks or pieces of wood are placed at convenient distances as the Potatoes are laid down, serving as alleys. On these, slight slips of wood are placed over the sets, and the whole is covered over with stout paper, such as old newspapers, &c. This is done to exclude light and air, and acts as a kind of forcing process with the Potato. Hay or litter is placed over the paper in frosty weather. This method is a rather dangerous one in hard frost, especially in such a winter as we have just passed through. A modification of it, certainly to be preferred for general purposes, is to use light-made 9-inch-deep boxes, 4 feet long and 2 feet wide, with no tops (fig. 9). These are filled with Potatoes, as on the floors, and are piled one on the other in any convenient place. Being all of one size, the bottom of one serves as the top to the other. Old Orauge boxes are well adapted for this purpose, and do well where they can be had. The sets, by this method, can easily be protected from frost, as, in extreme weather, they can be carried any where — they are sometimes put iu rooms under beds. Planting time commences on Valentine's Day, the screens having been placed on the beds a few days previously to keep the soil dry, and the sets are uncovered on the floors or in the boxes for about three days, to give the sprouts a certain firmness. They are cut up as planted, each set having one good sprout about 6 inches long. Scrupulous care is taken to reject every sprout with a hard or black point. Holes are made all over the bed, 9 inches every way, with a kind of dibble shod with iron (fig. 10), which, owing to a cross piece (C), can only make the hole the required depth. One Potato is placed in each hole, and then the whole pit is raked carefully over with a wooden rake, or hay rake, which, as the sprouts are barely half an inch below the surface does not break the points. The 110 THE GAKDBN. [Feb. 6, 1875. back screens are then put on from end to end, the ends on the ridge being kept true to each other, so that the front screens, when put on, form a good lap on the back ones. The work, as far as planting goes, is now done, and, as the Potatoes have had no check, they are up directly. The front screens are taken off every warm sunny day that comes, and put on early in the afternoon, always according to weather — and now the care begins. No sunny day must be lost, and a frosty hour would be fatal. It would be useless for anyone to attempt growing Potatoes largely on this plan, except they can afford to have some person nearly always with them. Small farmers or cottagers, with stout lads and lasses, generally follow it. A ton of screens to lift off in the morning, and put on again in the evening, is labour, and those who cannot afford cheap labour do not attempt it. The back screens are seldom taken off till the Potatoes are far advanced, or when rain would be beneficial, and the front ones, when taken off, are laid down sideways, tile fashion,, but always below the level of the front wall, so that a single ray shall not be intercepted. The back screens being kept on, not only keeps the cold and the winds away, but prevents the heat entering on the unclosed or open side from being lost by radiation. It is a strange sight to see these Potato beds up and green in the open air in April. The Potatoes are ready early in May, and are packed in neat hampers, each containing 20 lbs., which sometimes realise Is. per lb., which is thought a good price. They are bought up by dealers, who convey them to the manufacturing towns, Bolton, Barnsley, Blackburn, or Manchester, and quite an ovation is paid to the person who takes the first consignment to market. Innkeepers, shopkeepers, and others, present him with pieces of ribbon of every possible pattern and colour, which are pinned on every available portion of the dress, so that I have seen these men come back from the market thatched, as it were, with ribbons. Thus I have described at length, but I trust clearly, the practice followed to a very great extent by cottagers and small farmers. Gardeners will at once see the value of this system as the means of raising an intermediate crop between those grown under glass and warm borders in the open ground, and there is no doubt that these pits, in large gardens, could be utilised for other crops after the Potatoes. What a charming place for salading in parching summers, and what capital places to protect such plants as Lettuce or Cauliflower till the middle of February ! No such use, however, is made of them by the Potato growers. When the Potatoes are off, the soil is thrown up into a high side, from end to end, and remains so till planting time comes round again. Tnos. Williams. Bath Lodge, Ormshvrk. Mushroom Culture in Tan. — It may be of interest to some of your readers to know that Mushrooms can be grown in tan. I have grown them with great puccess, for three successive years, in tan which had been used for hunters to trample on through the summer, and of course there is some of their manure incorporated with the tan. The genial heat that the tan gives renders it one of the best materials that can be used for the growth of Mushrooms. When well beaten together with the horse-dung, and in sufficient quantity, I find the mixture more productive and lasting than horse-dung alone. The beds are, in fact, masses of clumps with as many as from twenty to fifty in each, which could be and were often taken up whole. Some may ask, Does not tan produce unwholesome fungi ? With me, and used as stated, there need be no fear of this ; I have not found one spurious one. As to flavour, they wore pronounced by those who partook of them to be very savoury and delicate. It must not be inferred that I recommend tan alone, but let a quantity be put in a loose box, or any other suitablo place whore a horse is shut up for a time, so that its manure is well incorporated with the tan, and use it when in a good friable state, neither wet nor dry ; if too wet the spawn will not run so well, and if too dry the beds will not keep in bearing so long. My experience leads mo to think that tan will bo much sought after when its qualitiosare more known to Mushroom growers, for I beliovo it to be superior to all droppings. — Ciiaklks Pknfokd, Meynell Lcmgley, Derby, in " Gardeners' Chronicle." Gboegb II. having ordered his gardens at Kew and Richmond to be opened to the pablic during part of the summer, his gardener, finding it troublesome to him. complained to the King that the people gathered the fhiwers. " What," said the monarch, " are my People fond of flowers ? Then plant some more." THE FLOWER GARDEN. PEONIES. Mb. Barry, hi a paper lately read before the Rochester Horticultural Society, made some remarks on these fine hardy plants, which are worthy the attention of all interested in hardy flowers. At the present time no class of plants of equal value is receiving less atten- tion than Peonies ? Is it because they are too well known, and therefore common ? We cannot concur in any such opinion ; and if we can do something towards awakening and reviving interest in this, one of the most striking and valuable floral produc- tions of China and Europe, we shall be pleased. Peonies are com- monly divided into two classes, Tree and Herbaceous, the latter being again divided into sub-classes. The Tree or Moutan Peonies are nativeB of China, and were first noticed in the year 1656, on the return to Europe of the first embassy of the Dutch East India Company. The attendants of this embassy having had freer access to that country than had been granted to any previous embassies, visited all the country from Canton to Pekin, even the gardens of the emperor, and as the result of this visit, published a work describing among other things the Pine-apple, the Tea plant, as well as the magnificent flower of the Moutan. This volume, however, received little attention, being considered only as a collection of traveller's tales. The description of the Peony therein given was very full and complete, but the plant remained unknown in Europe until the late Sir Joseph Banks gave instructions to several merchants trading at Canton to inquire for the Moutau, aud numerous plants were imported in the year 1794. It is said to have been cultivated in China for upwards of 1,400 years, and some of the Chinese authors say was first discovered growing among the mountains in northern China, whence it was brought into the southern provinces and there cultivated with the same enthusiasm as Tulips have been in Europe, some choice varieties of the Moutan having been sold in China for 100 ounces of gold. The Tree Peony sold at high prices when it first came into the hands of nurserymen in Europe, Monsieur Jositer, in Paris, receiving for plants of it more than 300 dollars each. This Moutan is the parent of most of the beautiful varieties of Tree Peonies now cultivated. Tree Peonies fill up a blank between deciduous flowering trees and flowering shrubs. In mixed borders they are invaluable, as well as single specimens on the lawn. They are quite hardy, but slight protection greatly improves them. They thrive in any good garden soil enriched with well decayed manure. September and October are the months best suited for their planting, but if in pots they may be put out in spring, when all danger of frost is over. Good plants set in autumn produce quantities of flowers the second or third year after planting. Each year the plants increase in size and beauty, and soon become the most showy and attractive features of the garden. They are the first of any of the varieties of Peonies to flower, and put forth their blooms early in May. Being naturally of what is termed slow growth, they are not propagated by division to any great extent, but chiefly by grafting upon the roots of the herbaceous varieties, which is done in August. The grafts are placed in frames, where they unite, and are transplanted the succeeding year into many rows. To assist those who desire to form a collection we name the following choice sorts. Any description, however complete, would fail to do them justice ; so we give only the distinguishing colours. Moutans. Alba variegata — One of the most striking double varieties. The outside petals are pure white and tho centre pure flesh-red. Arethusa — Light rose, shaded with purple; this is a very large and fragrant variety — and a vigorous grower. Banksii (Chinese double blush). — Flowers pale rose-coloured, from 4 to 6 inches in diameter. Gumperii — One of the finest kinds, producing bright rosy -pink flowers of great size and perfection. Incarnata (double). — A fine white variety; flowers large and fragrant. Rochlerii — A choice dark rose-coloured variety. Blossom large and plant vigorous. Le Fevreiana — A very large and showy variety; flowers bright pink, with rosy centre. Pride of Hong Kong — A striking variety; flowers of great size, light cherry-red with purple centre. Queen Elizabeth — -Blooms of immense size ; rosy-crimson in contro, shading off to a light rose toward the margin. Rosea odorata — Rose tinged with lilac, very large and flat. Schultzii — A beautiful and fragrant kind; flowers carmine coloured, deeply shaded with rosy-lilac. Zenobia — A largo fine white variety. Feb. 6, 1875.] THE GARDEN. Ill Herbaceous Peonies. Some beautiful varieties distributed a few years ago by the Royal Horticultural Society may also be found in English gardens. These are usually classified as officinalis, paradoxa and the Chinese varieties— the two first being European and the third Chinese sorts. These flower in succession, the first being the officinalis varieties, then the paradox, and the Chinese last. The Chinese varieties are particularly fine, and we regret not being able to give such a description of them as would induce every person who is the fortunate possessor of a garden to plant the entire collection, llerbaceous Peonies increase rapidly in size, and soon form a large clump, and thus, like all herbaceous plants, they should be divided occasionally, and the thriftiness of the plants will thus be greatly promoted. The most gorgeous floral exhibition we have ever seen was an acre of Peonies in full flower. Will you therefore allow me to furnish you with some notes made on the ground ? Arnbroise Verschaffelt. — This is one of the newer kinds, and up to the present time one of the best dark varieties known. The flowers are purplish and full. Carnea Striata. — Flesh colour striped with red ; very fine. Charles Verdier. — Another new and superb variety producing light lilac-rose flowers of great size and perfect form. Delachii. — A striking and beautiful dark variety ; flowers, pur- plish.crimson. Festiva. — This is a sort which cannot be too highly praised. Imagine a plant 3 feet high, with beautiful dark green glossy foliage, and peering above it from ten to fifteen large heads of bloom, each from 6 to 9 inches in diameter, pure white, marked here and there with bright streaks of carmine, just enough to show how pure the white is, and how beautifully the carmine contrasts with it. Match this with an Ambroise Verschaffelt or a Delachii, and you have a picture, or a pair of them, fit for the greatest amongst us to admire, but within the reach of the humblest to possess. Grandiflora carnea plena. — A variety of extraordinary size. A nursery row of this, with hundreds of enormous white blooms edged with blush, is a sight worth travelling miles to see. Humeri is another kind which has large and showy purplish-rose flowers of great beauty. Jules Lebon. — This has brilliant and distinct carmine-red flowers. Louis Van Houtte. — Oue of the dark crimson sorts, which produces a marked contrast among the fancy-coloured varieties. Louis Van Houtte (Caleb's). — Bright purplish-cherry, and a charming sort. Marechal Vaillant. — A new kind, of a dazzliug purplish-violet colour. Madame Victor Verdier. — Crimson.rose, with light violet, very large and full. But we have now given enough, we hope, to induce cultivators to turn their attention to these showy and really interesting plants. Variegated Bedding Tropasoium Minnie Warren. — I am quite at a loss to understand why this extremely beautiful, easily culti- vated, and in every way mo3t thoroughly satisfactory foliage bedding plant, is so very seldom seen in our gardens, where, were its beauty and great merits but once known, I cannot but think it would soon become a universal favourite. This charming plant was raised as far back as 1869, by Mr. Cattell, of Westerham, and, when shown the following year at South Kensington, was most deservedly awarded a first-class certificate by the floral committee of the Royal Horticul- tural Society. It is accurately figured in Vol. IX. of the " Floral Magazine," plate 506, and is there described by the Rev. H. H. Dombrain in the following terms : — "It is, as will be seen by our plate, exceedingly dwarf in character — in fact, of a regular Tom Thumb habit of growth ; the ground colour is green, blotched and broadly margined with pale cream, which bleaches to pure white as the leaves reach maturity. It is perfectly constant in its variega- tion, and very seldom produces blossoms — another great merit in a foliage bedding plant." When, however, it does bloom, and is allowed to seed, the seedlings come quite true to the beautifully variegated character of the parent plant. When bedded out in a scroll or pattern bed with a line of Iresine Lindeni, on either side the contrast produced between the two plants has a most striking and pleasing effect.— W. E. G. Primula altaica. — The plant referred to as Primula altaica (syn. grandi- flora), at p. 90 of your last number, is not P. altaica, but a variety of P. vulgaris. P. altaica is closely allied to P. fariuosa, and has very narrow leaves (not half an inch wide), and umbels of numerous small flowers in the style of P. farinosa and P. sibirica. It is probably not yet introduced into Europe. The variety of P. vulgaris referred to has long been erroneously called "altaica" by horticulturists. Why? Probably "no one" can tell. — Jas. Backhouse, TorJc. THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. By THOMAS BAINES. Forcing Early Potatoes and Carrots.— Look to the seed Potatoes that were advised some time back to be placed in shallow boxes for sprouting and planting next month ; they should now be pushing strong sprouts hard and green, that is if they are in a place in which they can receive sufficient light. They will generally get enough if the boxes are placed under a greenhouse stage or on the floor of a cold Vinery, or in a shed or empty room of any sort where there is enough light to prevent their drawing up weakly. Some stable manure and leaves in equal quantities, if the latter are at hand, should be got ready to make up slight hot-beds for early Potatoes and Carrots. Let these fermenting materials be well shaken together and allowed to lay for ten days or so, turning them over once during that time to sweeten, then make up the beds about 2 feet thick, and at once apply the frame, in which put about 10 inches of soil in a moderately dry state, and plant about 4 inches deep any early Kidney varieties. These are the most suitable for forcing, as they do not make such large tops as some others ; place the tubers 10 inches asunder in the rows, which should be 14 inches apart; room will thus be left for a thin crop of Radishes, which should be sown at once over the surface, raking in the seed. There is not much danger of a bed of this kind getting too hot, yet over- heating does sometimes occur, thereby injuring the Potato plants that are in the centre. When the bed is made and soiled insert a trial stick right down in the middle of it; this can be drawn out daily for a week or two, and felt so as to ascertain the heat, which should not rise above 70°. If there is any doubt about the tempera- ture, plunge a thermometer in the bed, and if it indicates more than the heat just named, get a stout stake and drive it right into the sides of the bed to the centre in several places, leaving the holes so made open for a few days so as to allow the heat to escape. A bed for Carrots (Early French Horn is the best for forcing) may be made, and soiled to the same depth as for the Potatoes. Let the seed be sown at once in rows 8 inches apart, covering it with half an inch or so of soil. If a good body of warm leaves is at hand, the dung may be dispensed with altogether, or not more than a fourth of it need be used, in which case the beds may be made up at once without further preparation of the materials, as leaves are not liable to get too hot. Give air every day as soon as the crop appears above ground. If there happens to be a deficiency of autumn-sown Cauli- flower or Lettuce plants, a few seeds of these may be sown in pans or boxes, and placed in beds such as the above, where they will soon vegetate, and when large enough to handle they should be pricked out in a frame or under hand-lights, from which they should be after- wards transferred to the open ground. Cucumber Beds.— Where there is no other convenience for growing Cucumbers except in ordinary garden frames, stable manure should at once be prepared, as advised for the preceding beds, using, if available, half leaves mixed with it, and the heap should be turned over once or twice until it is in proper condition for making up into a bed. If the plants have to be raised from seeds in this way, it is best to make up a bed for a single light frame, in which to raise them, and when the plants are large enough, as this bed becomes cold, to have a larger one in readiness in which to grow them. The bed in which they are raised should not be less than 4 feet in thickness and 1 foot larger than the frame on all sides ; by this means it will keep hot longer than it otherwise would do. As soon as the internal heat of the frame subsides to 80°, sow the seeds in small pots, two or three in each ; keep the plants when up near the glass, and give a little i air on mild davs, covering the glass with double mats at night. Where such a bed'as this exists, quantities of cuttings of rammer bedding plants may be struck in it and then hardened off. Walks and Weeds.— By this time most of the winter manure and soil-wheeling on the garden walks should be over ; and, where the gravel has got black and unsightly, 3 or 4 inches of the surfaco should be turned, and, if deficient in gravel, some should be added to the top, giving the whole a thorough rolling as the work proceeds. The walks in a kitchen garden, where anything approaching an orderly system of gardening is attempted, should be as well drained and constructed as those in the pleasure ground. Now is the best time to go over walks generally, and hand-pick all weeds, whilst the surface is soft. Market gardeners who grow for profit, and who, no doubt, calculate the return they expect to get for every shilling they expend in labour, set an example in respect to weeds that amateurs and others would do well to follow. With them it would be a difficult matter at any season to find a bushel of weeds on an acre ; then- system is to destroy every weed as soon as it vegetates, by frequently running the hoe over the ground. Fruit Buds and Birds; Pruning and Training.— During this month birds often greatly damage the bloom buds or 112 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 6, 1875. bush fruits. See that the trees that were threaded over some time since, or syringed with lime and soot-water, are effectually protected ; if the thread has become black, or been removed by the wind, run a few more strands round each bush, or apply more of the lime mixture with the syringe. Such appliances cost little in labour or material compared with the loss of a crop of fruit, and permanent injury to the trees by the bloom spurs being destroyed. Standard Apples or Pears that have been planted through the autumn and winter, even if staked at the time, should be examined to see that it has been done effectually before the March winds begin to blow, for they will be injured if not well secured. Peaches, Nectarines, and Apricots, on open walls, will require immediate attention in the way of pruning and nailing, for if these operations are deferred too long the buds get so prominent as to be knocked off in quantity during the progress of the work. Apricots, bearing, as they do, a good deal on spurs, do not require so free a use of the knife as the others. On the contrary, as much of the wood should be nailed in close to the wall as possible, as on a frosty night the bloom thus situated will frequently escape, where such as is further from the wall gets destroyed. Do not leave the shoots of Peaches and Nectarines too crowded, and, in pruning, reduce the shoots to something like two. thirds their original length, as near as may be, always cutting to wood buds, which are easily discernable from their long pointed shape as compared with the round blossom buds. If the shoots are strong, they will contain numbers of double bloom buds, with a wood bud in the middle, this centre bud will form a leader to the shoot, with- out which the fruit will not swell freely. Sufficient foresight should always be exercised in pruning Peaches and Nectarines, to see that provision is made to supply the trees in all parts with young wood for the coming year, that is, by cutting a sufficient number of the last season's shoots out to near the point from which they spring, and where there usually exists several wood-buds, the best placed of which should be grown on to form a shoot for tying in the following .year, in place of older wood, which it may be advisable to remove. For the same reason, in pruning at the present time, it is well to cut out any long straggling branches that have no bearing wood upon them, except near or at their extreme points. In pruning these trees, obviously, the first consideration must be the current season's crop, but at the same time, by a little forethought, the operator will easily see where it is advisable to encourage a shoot for next year's bearing. It is the want of this kind of attention that reduces numbers of these trees to nothing but strong bare wood, unfruitful except at the points of the shoots. Young trees are in the same way often spoilt by leaving the strong shoots too long, instead of shortening them well back. It should always be borne in mind that at whatever point the shoots of such trees are cut back to from that point, several young shoots will usually push, but not lower down nearer the base ; consequently it will readily be seen where next year's shoots should be induced to spring from, so as to properly furnish the future tree. As soon as a tree is pruned, nail it at once. The right way to proceed in this is to begin in the centre of the tree, taking a branch straight upwards, selecting for this, as near as the eye can decide, the one that will leave an equal portion of the tree on each side, and nail this in regularly over the allotted space. This applies, in pruning and nailing, to both dwarf and standard trees of these fruits. There is another matter to which the amateur should always attend, and that is, never to nail the shoots too tightly. Every shoot ought to have double its thickness of room allowed in the shreds, so as to admit of its thickening. It is also most essential not to bruise the bark, as there are no trees so liable to gum, if the bark is bruised, as Peaches and Nectarines. Shrubbery Borders.— In the shrubbery, the removal or plant. ing of any deciduous trees or shrubs should at once be completed, otherwise the season's growth will not only be sacrificed, but the health of the trees endangered so much as to make it advisable to defer such work until the autumn. In any place that is well kept, and no weeds allowed to grow amongst the shrubs, there is no neces- sity for digging between them, which, oxcopt with the object of burying weeds, is much better left undone, effecting, as it does, nothing but destroying a largo quantity of the best surface-roots; however, where wee Is have been permitted to get ahead, there is no resource except digging, for to hoo and remove thorn robs the land, and much soil is unavoidably carried away in the operation ; con- sequently, where shrubberies are very weedy, they should at once be dug, going no deeper, however, than sufficient to bury tho weeds and not mutilate the roots. Glasshouses. — In tho stove, greenhouse, and pits tho work will consist principally of watering and in giving air, which, if the weather is mild, may be admitted in greater quantities than hitherto; side- lights should not, however, be opened when tho wind is strong, so as to admit a chilling current amongst tho plants. -r„ BAGATELLE— BOIS DE BOULOGNE. The picturesque style of gardening as seen round Paris is mainly distinguished by its tempestuous undulations. In tbe Champs Elyssees every patch of turf is waved up and down in the most violent manner. The adjacent level lines of road- way, footway, or buildings, contrasting abruptly as they do with all this, show its artificial character at once. When valleys are traced through bits of turf not much larger than a dining-room floor, and surrounded by wide level walks, wo get the puerile instead of the picturesque. One might as well attempt to diversify the surface of a dinner table. In addition, the undulations are stiffly and badly carried out — scarcely an easy, natural gradation is seen. Sir Richard Wallace's garden, in the Bois (a view in which we now publish), offers, in this respect, a pleasing contrast to the many places in which the above-named blemish is conspicuous. Here we have broad easy glades, so gently, though artificially, hollowed, that they never even suggest the artificial or the incongruous. Here, too, may be seen most artistic and successful attempts to open up long and charming views, both iu the garden, and from it into the surrounding country. Happiest of the features, however, is the way these glades and vistas are planted. Instead of the usual plum-pudding-likc mixture everywhere, we have the small groves of distinct trees, with the turf spreading beneath them ; beautiful natural-looking groups of various choice trees, and sometimes a small group of one kind, only there is not a trace of the dot-a-tree-evcry where system, by which so many garden-landscapes are spoiled. The consequence is that open breezy turf carpets abound, and afforda foreground from which the various beauties of trees or shrubs may be seen to advantage at hand or at a distance. Groups of Yuccas are effective here; also groups in threes of various tree Peonies and other fine hardy plants. Many of the older trees, with high stems, are clad with a mantle of Irish Ivy, which, however, is confined to the bole only. This, when planted against well-grown trees, does not seem to do any harm to the health of the tree. Where a number of tall trees thus covered occur, one may sometimes fancy (seeing only Ivy-clad boles) that it is an evergreen grove, the heads of the deciduous trees being high overhead. This is one of the many effective uses made of the common Ivy here. By the way, tree Ivies worked high as standards, are now seen here and there in Paris gar- dens. Two largo groups of artificial rock here are the most successful we have seen in Prance ; one is a very old group, the other new, both so gracefully embellished with suitable plants, and so well supplied with masses of trees and shrubs that they have a picturesque and, in every way, satisfactory effect in the grounds. Here, however, as in other places, no attempt is made to grow the true Alpine plants in or near these inviting positions ; that is work for the future. Where there is so much to praise, we venture to point out that the artificial water here, as in too many gardens, is rather too much after the duck-pond pattern — too abrupt in its margins, and too near the house. With a graceful bend of the Seine glistening through one of the vistas, it would have been wiser to have dispensed with artificial water. Such contrasts remind us of tho full moon and stars calmly shining down on a poor mundane illumination. Gas Heating. — I am about to erect a greenhouse 20 feet by 15 feot, and am anxious to know if it can be Bafely heaterl by means of a gas stove. A friend of mine lias heated a smaller one in that way, but, as it has not yet stood the test of experience, I am desirous of knowing what yon think of the plan. His Btovo is about 3 feet high and 15 inches in diameter, with two sets of burners at the bottom, and a 3-inch zinc pipe from the top goes round three sides of the house and out at tho roof ; thcr'c is a small pipe to lot air in at tho bottom of the Btovo, and tho orifice is protected by a little wickerwork to prevent too strong a current of air from blowing out tho gas. The advantages of the plan are obvious, as there is nothing to be done except light the ga.s, and in a few minutes tho temperature rises to any required dogrco, according to tho number of juts turned on, and. as gas is cheap here, say 3s. 6d. per 1.000 feet, 1 presume it would bo much more economical than coal. 1 may add that the trust oE the stovo and piping, completo and fixed, was L'5 10s. — Kdguaston. | A similar system of heating has been in operation in a small house, near London, for several years, and is found to answer satisfactorily.] Amadou.— This frequently goes by the name of (Jernrnn tinder, and is employed in procuring light speedily. It ignites Immediately with a feeble spark from the Hint and Bteol, or by condensation of atmospheric air, and burns with slow and smouldering boat for a considerable time. It is formed of a spongy excresconco or Fungus found on old trees, particularly Oak, Ash, and Fir. This is washed and boiled in water, and afterwards beaten with a mallet, until it resembles very t-pongy leather ; it is then soaked iu a saturated solution o£ saltpetre, and dried in an oven. Feb. 6, 1875.] THE GARDEN. 113 Feb. 6, 1875.] THE GARDEN. 215 THE INDOOR GARDEN. HARDY PLANTS UNDER GLASS. Haedy plants, to me, are quite as interesting as the gorgeous Orchids for which my more wealthy neighbours give fabulous prices. They are inexpensive, and I can grow them myself in my own way. In my greenhouse — or, rather, in my hardy house, for I have neither hot-water pipes or air flue to heat it — I am in no concern for my plants should severe frost prevail, for a few sharp pinches at night will not injure them. "When a change comes, and the sun now and then peeps out and warms the air, a reaction takes place, and the bulbs burst rapidly into life, the blooms expand, and from that moment until the heat of summer compels me to transfer them to cooler quarters, I enjoy their beauty. In early spring espe- cially, whilst, as yet, flowers are scarce in the open ground, they fill a void for which other plants are not available. My hardy plant-house is not an ordinary building, with the usual fittings of shelves and stages. It is merely a span roof, rather low than otherwise, with a door at either end. The inside is composed of earthwork and a rugged stone formation, having a semicircular border on either side, and a raised mound in the centre. Oil this I have permanent patches or dressings of the evergreen Sedums intermixed with a few hardy Ferns, and then in every possible, and almost impossible, place are planted out or plunged in pots all conceivable kinds of hardy spring flowers, but all are so placed that they can be liberally supplied with water and kept growing as vigorously as in cool borders. As I have a good water supply with a fair pressure, I have a stopcock placed in an unostentatious fashion in one corner of the house, and, when it is necessary, merely affix my gutta-percha hose, I turn on the water, and give all my plants a generous soaking in a short time. Remembering that if these plants were growing in the open borders the soil about them would, all the whiter, be full of moisture, I keep the soil of my house moderately moist, and when the plants spring into activity they get a more liberal supply, especially when the days increase, as they do now, in length and the atmosphere becomes drier. I have the roof of my house constructed of light rafters and with moveable glazed lights. When the hot weather comes the latter are removed, light frames covered with tiffany take their places, the side sashes are removed, and the ends of the house shaded. I thus secure a cool and pleasant place in the summer months, plenty of air, whatever rain happens to fall, and a grateful shade. My glazed lights are placed on a temporary framework and under these I grow Cucumbers, Melons, and Tomatoes, besides raising seeds of choice hardy plants that thrive better under the shelter of glass when in their youthful state than w hen exposed either to heavy rains or the scorching sunshine. My house is now gradually developing its beauties. Patches of the blue Scilla and white Snowdrops are bursting through in humble rivalry, with Primroses of varied colours, white, yellow, mauve, red, lilac, purple, and crimson; and Polyanthuses equally varied in hue. Double Primroses are also throwing up their numerous flower buds ; the crimson, pink, and white-flowered variegated Daisies I specially admire for their foliage. Then there are already in bloom some half-dozen kinds of the lovely Anemone hepatica, and the Myosotis dissitiflora is bursting its buds of cerulean blue in all directions, before long its small brilliant bunches of flower will have appeared. Strong plants of the trailing Lithospermum, that have shown a few of its deep rich blue blossoms all through the winter, are here, and patches of the hardy white Polygala, besides the creeping Daphne. Then are seen Violets, single and double, Violas, and Pansies of different hues, and hardy Primulas in great variety. Just showing the bud are Cortusoides amcena, 0. lilacina, 0. grandiflora, and C, alba; and C. nivalis, C. inter- media, and 0. alpina somewhat more advanced. Then I have Arabis albida prascox, which is in full bloom — the variegated kinds pleasing in their foliage — and rosea giving promise of good heads of flower at a later date. The white and pink Christmas Roses have thrown up fine and showy blossoms, and the Aubrietias are following suit— Aubrietia variegata purpurea is at all times a gem, but is especially so under glass. Then early dwarf kinds of the Iris, Saxifrages, and creeping Campanulas afford plenty of groundwork for the choicer kinds of Crocus. Lastly I have Tulips, with Narcissus, Grape Hyacinths and the Triteleia uniflora, but even these do not constitute all the inmates of my hardy plant-house. I labour to fill it as much as possible with early-flowering plants, for these at the commencement of spring are much rarer than in the month of June, besides which they are not so lightly heated by the elements as during these later months. Then I can be ever changing, for it is needful each autumn that there should be a re-arrangement of many plants, some requiring dividing, some re-placing, and others must be laid aside altogether in favour of new comers that I may have been fortunate enough to add to my collection. I find it is well to have a reserve in the open ground of small stocks of most of the choicer plants, as some may die or need removal into the open ground for a year to enable them to recruit their crowns ; but, as a rule, they all thrive well, and I attribute their general health not a little to a constant supply of water, cool shade m the summer, and liberal top-dressings of rich soil and cocoa- nut fibre, which is one of the most valuable mulching agents for flowers that can be found. Being somewhat of an enthusaist for spring flowers, and, indeed, for hardy plants of all kinds, I am often not a little vexed when I see my friends throwing away their yearly allotted garden money on tender soft-wooded stocks that the first frost will decimate. 1 would, if I knew how, endow them with some of my love for these hardy gems. Perhaps my present work may tend some day to accomplish this, and I should seek my reward in the knowledge that I had contributed in no small degree to an enhancement of their own pleasures. "• EURYA JAPONICA VARIEGATA. This finely variegated Japanese plant should be as generally grown for the decoration of cool conservatories as the different varieties of Croton are for that of the stove ; it is easily propagated by^ means of cuttings made from the points of the shoots, struck in sand in heat, and then potted on in either sandy peat or good loam. It will suc- ceed in either, being, like almost all Japanese plants, not at all over- particular as to the soil it requires ; but with this, as with other plants, there is a vast difference betwixt the progress it will make if well attended to and pushed on by re-potting as required, and the comparative slowness which plants show that only get a periodical shift once a year, as is too often the case with hard-wooded subjects, be they slow or fast growers. When the cuttings are rooted, which they will be in a few weeks if put in at the commence- ment of the year, at once move them into 3.inch or 4-inch pots, according to their strength and the amount of roots they have made ; replace them in the stove, and encourage growth by the use of the syringe in the afternoons, pinching out the points of the shoots so far as is necessary to lay the foundation for tho future specimen, the shape of which should now be determined on. For decorative purposes, under almost all circumstances, a pyramidal form looks the best, and is the most useful; but it should not be too regular in the outline. This can be secured by allowing a reasonable amount of freedom to the lateral branches, and in not stopping them all one length, which will give them the intolerably formal appearance so objectionable in a plant grown for the effect produced by beauty of leaf and habit of growth in place of flowers. The centre shoot should be tied up to a neat stick, and stopped only so far as to prevent its running away with too much of the sap, the certain consequence of which is to leave the plant deficient of branches near the base. In this the grower must be left to judge of the requirements of each individual plant — some, as in the case of those of similar habit, having a greater disposition than others to grow upright or spread horizontally, as the case may be. By mid- summer, if all goes well, the pots will be full of roots, and another shift should be given into pots 3 inches larger, again returning them to the stove, or any house or pit where they will receive a moderate amount of heat and moisture. They will also be benefited by a little shade in bright weather. Syringe, as hitherto, once a day, which will not only assist growth, but tend to preserve them clear from insects. Keep them growing through the autumn, and if, before the end of the year, they require additional root-room, they should have it, as the object is to get the plants on in size as quickly as possible. There is no necessity to give rest during the winter ; if growth were stopped in that way there would be considerable loss of time. With some plants, rest, even in the first year of their separate existence after being struck from a cutting, is more or less necessary ; with others like that now under consideration it is not required, con. 116 THE GARDEN. [Feu. 6, i875. tinued growth not having the slightest tendency to weaken the consti- tution if not pushed too far ; consequently, if the pots they are in are full of roots, move them into others 4 inches or 6 inches larger, accord- ing to the strength of the plants, and keep them growing through the winter. Attend regularly, as they increase in size, to keeping the leading shoot in an upright position, and stop any lateral shoots that threaten to make more than their share of growth. The points of the shoots should also be so far pinched out generally as to cause the plants to form sufficiently close full growth ; again shade slightly when bright weather comes. By midsummer examine the pots to see if they are becoming filled with roots, which, by this time, they ought to have in plenty, and, if it is required, move them on into larger ; whichever is used, peat or loam, all through the several pottings, see that it contains plenty of fibre. Soil that is of a close heavy nature, even when a quantity of sand is added, is not fit for any plant intended to have its roots always kept in a confined space, neither will plants that are placed in such make near the progress that they will in fibrous soils. By the middle of September the plants may be hardened off a little by keeping them cooler, and dispensing with shade ; and through the autumn do not keep them in a night temperature of more than 50°, nor less than 45° ; for it must be borne in mind that, although the plant is all but hardy — if not ultimately found to be quite so — the growth has all been made in heat, and that the plants would not bear the first comparatively low temperature to which they were submitted immediately after a summer's growth in heat. It is a plant that naturally requires a great deal of water, and is in no way injured by receiving it in abundance at the root when in active growth and if the soil be filled with roots ; but through the winter, when at rest, it will neither require nor bear to have much. On the other hand, like all evergreens, the soil in which it grows must not be allowed to get too dry, or the leaves will fall, and an injury to the plants be inflicted which a season's growth can alone repair ; whilst, at the same time, the strength of the roots will be corre- spondingly exhausted. It should now be considered what size the plants are required — whether for moderate-sized or large specimens; and whether it is desirable, in the latter case, to develop them as quickly as possible; if so, they should, after a couple or three months' rest, be again placed where they will receive more heat, and be potted and grown on as before ; or a portion of them may be so treated, and the rest put under a slower treatment by allowing them greenhouse room throughout the summer, giving them also such additional root-space as they need. They will make very beautiful, neat-sized conservatory decorative plants, for mixing with other fine-foliage subjects or flowering plants. In the conservatory it will be thoroughly at home, merely requiring to have its wants supplied with water, and additional root-room as the pots get too small. If it ever gets thin of leaves, and the branches look bare, they may be shortened back moderately in the spring before it begins to grow; and, if kept for a time in* a little closer atmosphere, and growth be encouraged by syringing over- head, it will break freely, and soon form good fresh foliage. It is not subject to insects, but green fly will live on the points of the Bhoots ; and if the insect is allowed to establish itself on the young leaves, it will cripple and disfigure them. Red spider will also live upon it, but, from the nature of its leaves, it is well able to bear the constant use of the syringe in the summer season, and this pest can have little chance of gaining a footing. Scale, both brown and white, will live on it. The former can be kept down by the use of the sponge ; but, as regards the white species of this insect, prevention is much better than cure, and this can be managed by never allowing them to come in contact with anything affected with the pest. If once the plants get infested with it, there would be no chance of its complete destruction except cntting back into the bare hard wood, and dressing with insecticide sufficiently strong to destroy the insect, which would take a stronger application to kill it than the leaves of the Enrya will bear. This plant might be grown as a standard in the manner and for the purpose that the Sweet Bay is used. The immense demand for plants of this description, for standing out in the summer season on terraces and similar places, may bo easily understood by the prices they fetch. No plant with which I am acquainted is so likely to make a fitting companion as a standard for tho Bay as this Eurya ; its handsome flossy foliage, still further increased in beauty by being variegated, could not fail to render it attractive so grown. Undoubtedly it would tako time to get it up to the required size ; but so it does with the Bay or even Portugal Laurel when grown for this purpose. The plants would require to be so treated as to form a clear stem of the requisite height by removing all side shoots until the desired height was attained ; after which the plants would simply need keeping in shape by pinching out the points of any shoots that were overgrowing the rest, so as to regulate the formation of a head, and removing any side breaks that might make their appearance ; but with these I should not apprehend much trouble. The treatment in other respects as to general cultivation would be the same as above advised when they were intended for indoor decoration ; and in the winter season the plants could be placed in a Vinery at rest, or any similar place where room was available. The plant is benefited when making active growth by the use of manure-water ; as the pots or tubs it would ultimately occupy got filled with roots, it could for many years be kept in a growing condition by assisting it in such manner during the summer season. T. Baixes. SUB-TEOPICAL PLANTS IN WINTER. Much as these have assisted in relieving the monotony of the bedding-out system, I believe they have not as yet reached the summit of their popularity ; for the majority of them are of very easy culture, and possess the great merit of being readily increased from seed ; and, being of very rapid growth, they only require the protec- tion of glass for a short period before they are fit to rank with the most beautiful objects in the garden. But it is not so much their effect during the summer as their value after their outdoor season is over that induces me to plead for their extended cultivation. One of the uses that I have found them eminently fitted for is the decoration of ball-rooms, saloons, and entrance-halls, or wherever a mass of foliage may be desired. Acanthus latifolius produces an excellent effect under these circumstances, its freshness of colour and bold outline making it a formidable antagonist to many of our permanent stove-plants. Abutilons, both plain-leaved and variegated, are also thoroughly adapted to such purposes, as well as Ricinus, Solanums, and Wigandias ; and, as a graceful rival to the Ferns, Acacia lophantha is exquisite by daylight, but is scarcely so effective by night, as its leaves close up ; whilst the Centaureas, as silvery edging plants in contrast with Echeverias, show out to perfection. For furnishing single vases or as table plants Chamsepeuce Cassabonje and diacantha can scarcely be excelled in beanty of appearance under strong artifi- cial light by the choicest of stove inmates, and they have the great advantage of not being so susceptible to injury from the great variations of temperature that often occur in crowded assemblies. Where plants of a more permanent character are employed, as Palms, tree Ferns, Phormiums, &c, the varieties suitable for the purpose are unlimited ; the only additional care required being that the plants should be plunged in pots during summer, and lifted before any injury occurs to foliage from frost or storms. A cool Vinery suits them admirably, as the partial shade of the Vines is beneficial at first, for they will lose some roots in removal. A liberal allowance of water and a slight syringing overhead will quickly and thoroughly establish them, and they will well repay any labour bestowed on them as a surplus stock of foliage ready for any sudden emergency, besides often doing duty as substitutes for plants that the owners would not like to risk out of their regular quarters during the season when decorative plants are most in request in many country mansions. J- Groom. SOWING AND GROWING AMARYLLIDS. In reply to your correspondent's query (see p. 82) as to the best time for sowing Amaryllis seed, I have to state that I have been successful in rearing seedlings sown at various periods of the season. Generally speaking, the seed is ripe in August, and may be sown at once. If this be done, the seedlings will come up very freely in the course of eight weeks, and only require to be kept growing during winter in mild heat. What the grower has to guard against is thrips and red spider, both dangerous enemies to the health of Amaryllids. It is better to keep the plants in a mild than in a heated atmosphere, as it is well known that an over.heated atmosphere generates quantities of these marauders, and they are not very easily kept down. The shortest time I have been able to get bulbs from seed capable of flowering is three years and a few months. In four years' time- from sowing, the bulbs ought to be strong enough to produce flower scapes. To accomplish this, however, there must be no time lost in quickening growth. It is better to give the seedlings a run of root growth in a bed rather than cramp them in pots. Pot culture of seedlings is slow work, too slow for the eager cultivator ; hence I would strongly recommend them to be planted out after the fashion of nursery rows in some low heated pit. The heat does not require to be great, only a degree or two in advance of greenhouse tempera- ture. This attended to, and the seedlings kept growing, they will soon come away and swell up to bulbs of fair size. Then they must have their period of rest like all bulbs— I ought to say, like all herbaceous bulbs. The evergreen bulbs, such as Vallota, for instance, require constant attention with the watering-pot. Bulbs of the Amaryllis or Iiippeastrum proper require a good drying from Feb. 6, 1875.] THE GARDEN. 117 September to January, as a rnle, although there are exceptions. I find, for instance, that the beautiful white A. marginata grandiflora flowers best in autumn and grows in winter, something after the fashion of those charming and brilliant Cape bulbs, the Nerines, whereas Marginata vennsta and Marginata conspicua take after the ordinary run of the breed. Beautiful as some of these well-known sorts are, they are now completely eclipsed by some of the gorgeous seedlings of more recent times. I hope to be able to show a collection of them in the course of a few months at South Kensington or some such place, where the public at large may have an opportunity of seeing them . Jajles Anderson. Meadowbank Nursery, Uddingston. SPOTTED TRUMPET-LEAF INSECTS. At a meeting of the American Association for the Advancement of Science, held at Hartford in August last, the following paper, " On the Insects associated with the Spotted Trumpet-leaf (Sarracenia variolaris)," was read by Mr. Chas. V. Riley, of St. Louis, Missouri. The insect-catching powers of those curious plants, the Flytraps (Dionasa), the Sun. dews (Drosera) , and the Trumpet-leaves (Sarra- cenia), have always attracted the attention of the curious ; but renewed interest has been awakened in them on account of the interesting experiments and observations on their structure, habit, and function, that have lately been recorded, and especially by the summing-up of these observations in some charming papers by Professor Asa Gray, which recently appeared in " The Nation " and the " New York Tribune " under the title of " Insectivorous Plants." Through the courtesy of Dr. J. H. Mellichamp, of Bluffton, and of H. W. Ravenel, of Aiken, South Carolina, who have sent me abundant material, I am able to submit the following notes of au entomological nature on the Spotted Trumpet. leaf (Sarracenia variolaris), which must henceforth rank with the plants of the other genera mentioned as a cousummate insect-catcher and devourer. The leaf of Sarra- cenia is, briefly, a trumpet-shaped tube, with an arched lid, covering, more or less completely, the mouth. The inner surface, from the month to about mid-way down the funnel, is covered with a compact decurved pubescence, which is perfectly smooth and velvety to the touch, especially as the finger passes downward. Prom mid-way it is beset with retrorse bristles, which gradually increase in size till within a short distance of the bottom, where they suddenly cease, and the surface is smooth. There are also similar bristles under the lid. Running up the front or ventral side of the trumpet is a broad wing with a hardened border, parting at the top, and extending around the rim. Along this border, as Dr. Mellichamp discovered, bnt especially for a short distance inside the mouth, and less con- spicuously inside the lid, there exude drops of a sweetened viscid fluid, which, as the leaf matures, is replaced by a white, papery, tasteless, or but Blightly sweetened sediment or efflorescence ; while, at the smooth bottom of the pitcher, is secreted a limpid fluid possess- ing toxic or inebriating qualities. The insects which meet then death in this fluid are numerous, and of all orders. Ants are the principal victims, and the acidulous properties which their decom- posing bodies give to the liquid doubtless render it all the more potent as a solvent. Scarcely any other Hymenoptera are found in the rotting mass ; and it is an interesting fact that Dr. Mellichamp never found the little nectar.loving bee or other Mellifera about the plants. On one occasion only have I found in the pitcher the recognisable remains of a Bombus, and on one occasion only has he found the honey-bee captured. Species belonging to all the other orders are captured ; and among the larger species that I have most commonly met with, which, from the toughness of their chitinous integument, resist disorganisation and remain recognisable, may be mentioned Asaphes memnonius and Euryomia melancholica among Coleoptera, Pentatoma lugens and Orsilochus variabilis var. eomplicatus among Heteroptera; while katydids, locusts, crickets, cockroaches, flies, moths, and even butterflies, and some Arachnida and Myriopoda, in a more or less irrecognisable condition, frequently help to swell the unsavoury mass. But while these insects are decoyed and macerated, in order, as we may naturally infer, to help support the destroyer, there are, nevertheless, two species which are proof against its siren influences, and which, in turn, oblige it, either directly or indirectly, to support them. The Sarracenia Moth. The first is Xanthoptera semicrocea (Guen.) a little glossy moth, which may be popularly called the Sarracenia moth. It is strikingly marked with grey-black and straw-yellow, the colours being sharply separated across the shoulders and the middle of the front wings. This little moth walks with perfect impunity over the inner surface of the pitcher, which proves so treacherous to so many other insects. It is frequently found in pairs within the pitchers soon after these Xanthoptera semicbocea. — u.ecff enlarged, the natural size indicated at side ; b, c, larva, back and side views ; d, chrysalis ; e, moth, normal form, with wings expanded ; /, pale variety, with wings closed. open, in the early part of the season or about the end of April. The female lays her eggs singly, near the mouth of the pitcher, and the young larva, from the moment of hatching, spins for itself a carpet of silk and very soon closes up the mouth by drawing the rims together und covering them with a delicate, gossamer-like web, which effectually debars all small outside intruders. It then frets the leaf within, commencing under the hood and feediug downwards on the cellular tissue, leaving only the epidermis. As it proceeds, the lower part of the pitcher above the putrescent insect collection becomes packed with ochreous excrementitious droppings, and by the time the worm has attained its full size the pitcher above these droppings generally collapses. This worm when fully grown is beautifulfy banded transversely with white and purple or lake-red, which Dr. Mellichamp poetically likens in brightness to the Tyrian dye. It is furthermore characterised by rows of tubercles, which are especially prominent on the four larger legless joints. It is a half-Iooper, having but six prolegs, and keeps up, in travelling, a constant restless, wavering motion of the head and thoracic joints, recalling paralysis agitans. The chrysalis is formed iu a very slight cocoon, usually just above or within the packed excrement. The species, kindly determined by Mr. A. R. Grote, was many years ago figured by Abbot, who found it feeding on Sarracenia variolaris, in Georgia. Guenee's descriptions were made from these figures, for which reason I have made some descriptive notes from the living material. The species feeds alike on S. variolaris and S. flava, and there are at least two broods each year, the first brood of larvte being found during the early part of May, the second towards the end of June, and dis- appearing with the dying of the leaves. The Sarracenia Flesh Fly. The second species is a still more invariable living accompaniment of both kinds of Sarracenia mentioned. By the time the whitish effloresence shows around the mouth of the pitcher, the moist and macerated insect remains at the bottom will be found to contain almost invariably a single whitish, legless grub or "gentle," about as large round as a goosequill, tapering to the retractile head, which is furnished with two curved, black, sharp hooks ; truncated and concave at the posterior end of the body. This worm riots in the putrid insect remains, and when fed npon them to repletion bores through the leaf just above the petiole and burrows into the ground. Here it contracts to the pupa state, and in a few days issues as a large two- winged fly, which I have described (loc. cit.) as Sarcophaga sarracenia? — the Sarracenia flesh-fly. The immense prolificacy of the flesh-flies, and the fact that the young are hatched in the ovaries of the parent before they are deposited by her on tainted meat and other decom- posing or strong-smelling substances have long been known to entomologists, as has also the rapid devel. opment of the species. The viviparous habit among the MuscidEe is far more common than is generally supposed, and I have even known it to occur with the common house-fly which normally lays eggs. It is also possesssed by some GSstridas, as I have shown in treating of CEstrus ovis, the sheep bot-fly. But the'propensity of the larva? for killing one another, and their ability to adapt them, selves to different conditions of food-supply are not sufficiently appre. ciated. I have long since known, from extensive rearing of parasitic Tachinadse, that when, as is often the case, a half dozen or more eggs are fastened to some caterpillar victim only large enough to nourish one to maturity, they all hatch and commence upon their common prey, but that the weaker eventually succumb to the strongest and oldest one which finds the juices of his less fortunate brethren as much to his taste as those of the victimised caterpillar. Or, again, Saecophaga sahhacenij!. — a, larva; b, pupa; c, fly, the hair-lines showing average natural lengths ; d, enlarged head and first joint of larva, showing curved hooks, lower lip (g), and prothoracic spiracles ; e, end of body of same, showing stigmata (/) and prolegs and vent ; h, tarsal claws of fly with protecting pads ; z, antenna of same. All enlarged. 118 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 6, 1875. that where the food supply is limited in quantity, as it often is, and must be with insects whose larva? are parasitic or sarcophagous, such larvae have a far greater power of adapting themselveB to the conditions in which they find themselves placed, than have herbivorous species under like circumstances. Both these characteristics are strongly illustrated in Sarcophaga sarracenise. Several larvoe, and often upwards of a dozen, are generally dropped by the parent fly, within the pitcher : yet a fratricidal warfare is waged until usually but one matures, even where there appears macerated food enough for several. And if the Xanthoptera larva closes np the mouth of the pitcher ere a sufficient supply of insects has been captured to nourish itproperly, this Sarcophaga larva will nevertheless undergo its transformation though it sometimes has not strength enough to bore its way out, and the diminutive fly escapes from the puparium, only to find itself a prisoner unless deliverance comes in the rupture or perforation of the pitcher by the moth larva or by other means. This rupturing of the pitcher does not unfrequently take place, for Dr. Mellichamp writes under date of June 27, as follows : " Most old leaves now examined — I might almost say all— instead of being bored, seem ripped or torn, as if by violence, apparently from without. You see occasionally shreads of the leaf hanging. Surely the legless larva of Sarcophaga cannot do this ! " What then — the toads, frogs, or crawfish abounding in these moist pine lands ? or rather is not the fat maggot the occasion of the visits of the quail which lately I have observed here ? These two insects are the only species of any size that can invade the death-dealing trap with impunity while the leaf is in full vigour, and the only other species which seem at home in the leaf is a minute pale mite belonging, apparently, to Holothyrus in the Gamasida?, and which may quite commonly be found crawling within the pitcher ; and a small Lepidopterous leaf.miner, which I have not succeeded in rearing. There must, however, be a fifth species, which effectually braves the dangers of the bottom of the pit, for the pupa of Sarco- phaga is sometimes crowded with a little Chalcid parasite, the parent of which must have sought her victim while it was rioting there as larva. No other insect, so far as we now know, can crawl up the slippery belt — all tumble into the tube and there meet their death. Means of Escape. Certain questions very naturally present themselves here : — First, What gives the flesh-fly more secure foothold on the slippery pubescence than the common house-fly exhibits ? Second, What enables the larva of the flesh-fly to withstand the solvent property of the fluid which destroys so many other insects ? Third, What gives the Sarracenia moth and its larva security ? I can only offer in answer the following suggestions : — The last joint of the tarsus of the common house-fly has two moveable sharp-pointed claws and a pair of pads or pulvilli. These pads were formerly supposed to operate as suckers, and all sorts of sensational 'accounts of this wonderful sucker have been given by popular writers, who forgot that there are any number of minute insects having no such tarsal apparatus, which are equally indifferent to the laws of gravitation so far as walking on smooth upright surfaces, or on the ceiling, is concerned. In reality, these pads are thickly beset on the lower surface with short hairs, most of which terminate in a minute expansion kept continually moist by an exuding fluid — a sort of perspiration. Take the soft human hand, moistened by perspiration or other means, and draw it, with slight pressure, first over a piece of glass or other highly, polished surface, and then over something that has a rougher surface, such as a planed board, a papered wall, or a velvety fabric, and you will experience much greater adhesion to the smoother objects, and may understand the important pait which these moist pads play in the locomotion of the fly. They also act, in part, like the cushions of a cat's paw in protecting and preventing abrasian of the claws, which are very useful on the rougher surfaces, where the pads are less serviceable. Now, compared with Musca domestica, the claws of Sarcophaga sarracenia? are much the longer and stronger, and the pads much the larger, presenting three or four times the surface. These differences are, I think, sufficient to explain the fact that while the common fly walks with slippery and unsteady gait on the smooth pubescence (the retrorse nature of this pubescence sufficiently explaining the downward tendency of the movement), its sarco- phagous congener manages to get a more secure footing ; for not only does the latter present a larger adhesive surface, but the longer claws are more likely to reach beyond the pubescence and the bristles, and fasten to the cellular tissue of the leaf beyond. Moreover, Sarcophaga is more thickly beset with stiff spinous bristles than Musca, and Dr. Mellichamp says that when disturbed it buzzes violently about, just as if an animated sheep-bur had fallen into the tube — not apt to go down, because it will hitch and stick, and finally, by main force, it generally emerges, but sometimes also succumbs. In answer to the second question, I can only say that there is nothing exceptional in the power of the larva to withstand the solvent quality of the fluid ; it is, on the contrary, in accordance with the facts known of many species of Muscidse and CEstridas, some of which, like the well-known horse-bot, revel in a bath of chyme, while others are at ease in the intestinal heat of other warm-blooded animals. It is also well known that they will often live for hours in strong liquids, such as alcohol and turpentine. In answer to the third question, the moth is doubtless assisted in walking within the tube by the spine and spurs on the legs which it, in common with most other moths possesses ; the tarsi in ;Xanthoptera being armed with spines, and the spurs being quite long, and in semicrocea usually shod at tip with a corneous point. Its larva overcomes the treacherous surface by either carpeting it with silk, or destroying it. To one accustomed to seek the why and wherefore of things, the enquiry very naturally arises as to whether Xanthoptera and Sarcophaga play any necessary or important rule in the economy of Sarracenia. Speaking of the Sarcophaga larva), Mr. Ravenel asks, " May he not do some service to Sarracenia as Pronuba does to Yucca ?" And if so, may not all this structure for the destruction of insects be primarily for his benefit ? Can he be merely an intruder, sharing the store of pro- vision which the plant, by ingenious contrivance, has secured for itself, or is he a welcome inmate and profitable tenant P Self, fertilisation does not take place in Sarracenia, and the possibility that the bristly flesh-fly aids in the important act of pollination, lends interest to the facts. No one has witnessed with greater pleasure than myself the impulse which Darwin has of late years given to such enquiries ; but we should be cautious lest the speculative spirit impair our judgments, or our ability to read the simple lesson of the facts. My own conclusions summed up are : — 1. There is no reason to doubt, but every reason to believe, since the observations of Dr. Mellichamp, that Sarracenia is a truly insectivorous plant, and that by its secretions and structure it is eminently fitted to capture its prey. 2. That those insects most easily digested (if I may use the term) and most useful to the plant are principally ants and small flies, which are lured to their graves by the honeyed path, and that most of the larger insects, which are not attracted by sweets, get in by accident, and fall victims to the peculiar mechanical structure of the leaf. 3. That the only benefit to the plant is from the liquid manure resulting from the putrescent captured insects. [Mr. Ravenel, in making a transverse section near the base of the young leaf, noticed large tubular cells passing down through the petiole into the root, and much of the liquid manure may possibly pass through these into the root stalk.] 4. That Sarcophaga is a mere intruder, the larva existing on and sharing the food obtained by the plant, and the fly attracted thither by the strong odour, as it is to all putrescent animal matter or to other plants, like Stapelia variegata, which give forth a similar odour. There is nothing to prove that it has anything to do with pollination, and the only insect that Dr. Mellichamp has observed about the flowers with any frequency is a Cetoniid beetle — the Euryomia melancholica — which, with other species of its genus, is commonly found on many different flowers. 5. That Xanthoptera has no other connection with the plant than that of a destroyer, though its great injury is done after the leaf has performed its most important functions. Almost every plant has its peculiar insect enemy, and Sarracenia, with all its dangers to insect life generally, is no exception to the rule. 6. That neither the moth nor the fly has any structure peculiar to them that enables them to brave the dangers of the plant, beyond what many other allied species possess. Russian Bast Mats.— About 400,000 mats are annually exported from the port of Archangel alone, and large quantities also reach us by way of the Baltic and Black Sea. The exportation in this way amounts to about a million and a half of mats a-year. The home consumption cannot be given in exact figures, but there is no doubt that it greatly exceeds the quantity exported. The manufac- ture of mats is mainly a domestic industry. The peasants employ their spare time in the maceration and separation of the liber of the Lime tree into slips, and in plaiting the latter into mats, which are purchased wholesale by commissionaires. Lime trees from twenty, five years of age are fit for decortication for the manufacture of mats, and in localities where the Lime is not sufficiently plentiful to supply the wants of the inhabitants in tho way of mats and shoes it is replaced by the bark of the Willow and Birch. Indeed, in the Government of Kostroma, one of the principal centres of this industry, the Lime forests are already all destroyed, so that the materials to carry it on have to be procured from other districts, for the inhabitants are loth to give up an occupation which has been continued for centuries. The bark is removed in spring or early in summer, about three weeks being devoted to this part of the work. The value of the mats exported to Europe in 1871 amounted to nearly £50,000. Feb. 6, 1875.] THE GAEDEN. 119 TREES AND SHRUBS. THE SCOTTISH PINE. A wkitee in a weekly contemporary says : — " The Scottish Pine appears to thrive in deep valleys, and to grow equally well on the mountain side. Finer examples of these trees may be found on almost any English estate than their native woods affords." The writerof this paragraph can only be very imperfectly acquainted with the Scottish Pine in its native habitats. He cannot have traversed Glenrnoro, and looked upon the remnant of the noble trees that once occupied that celebrated glen. Their glory has departed ; but a feeling of awe and regret passes through the mind as one looks upon the skeletons of the mighty dead which have been torn and worn by the tempests of centuries. Where are their equals to be seen, living or dead, on any estate in England ? I would advise the writer referred to go to Badenoch, and see "the giants," "whose statures reach the sky," to use the words of the late Professor Wilson, who had seen more of Highland scenery than most men of his day. I am sure that his opinions will undergo some modi- fication. A resident on the banks of the Spey in olden times, who had the opportunity of seeing the timber rafts floated down that rapid river to the sea, would have smiled at seeing such absurd statements made. The mighty tenants of Abernethy had reached the sea before my days, but I have often stood on the banks and watched the remnant of those noble trees that were floated down the river from time to time. Sixteen square miles of the forest Rothimurchus has gone to the ground. The axe has been busy in many a magnificent Scottish forest, but a mass of timber still remains, as anyone may see who traverses the course of the Dee, the Spey, and the Findhorn, besides many a strath and glen whose dark recesses are made still more sombre by the trees of the native Pine. Pure air and drainage it must have to bring it to that perfec- tion in which it may yet be seen while- clinging to the almost naked rocks in many of the highland glens. In the valleys where the air is moist, the bole of the trees are sometimes grey with lichens ; but higher up, where the air is more rarified, their smooth trunks are often of that deep flesh colour that gives them such a striking appearance at a distance. That there are many fine specimens of the Scotch Fir in the parks and plantations of England, and in the Low- lands of Scotlands, I do not deny ; "but people who have seen it in its native climate and soil, and who judge of it from the wretched specimens which are suffocated in English plantations, with their roots in heavy and eternally wet clays, may well call it a wretched tree, but when amongst its own Highland Heather, and standing freely in its native knoll of dry gravel, or thinly-covered rock, over which it spreads its network of roots, its appearance is far different." It is astonishing how rapidly the Pine shoots up to the size of a tree in many parts of Scotland, but it requires generations to bring it to perfection, and it will require time to solve the problem whether the immense planted Pine woods in Scotland will ever equal in size of timber and quality the ancient forests of that country. The writer referred to remarks that " It would be a prudent and proper course for the Government to insist on the preservation of a few acres of the best trees in each district as seed parents for future forests ; " but ho does not say whether naturally. planted trees ought to be preferred to artificially-planted trees. He does, however, refer to miniature and decrepid specimens, left on account of their inferiority, which, he says, are prone to produce cones more abundantly, and become the parent stocks of future forests, thus perpetuating degeneracy. I am not in a position to say whether the nurserymen in the north of Scotland, that raise such enormous numbers of seedling Pines, gather their seeds from such trees or not ; but should this be really the case, it would be well for planters and for those nurserymen that purchase quantities of one-year-old seedlings from northern growers to enquire into the matter. That stunted Pine trees bear cones freely cannot be questioned ; but that they are more prolific than fine old full- grown trees, no one really acquainted with the Pine would maintain. This is not a question for Government intervention, but for landed pro- prietors and those interested in the commercial value of timber trees. A rather singular thing regarding the propagation of the Pine by seed came under my own observation some years back. I noticed a number of rooks carrying what appeared to be Potatoes in their bills to a bare rocky knoll, then carefully burying them in the earth. On examination, instead of Potatoes, I found them to be Fir cones. For what purpose the rooks buried them there I am unable to say, but only conjecture that they placed them there as a provision for winter use during heavy snows. The spot became, in a short time, covered with fine young Firs, and is now densely covered with trees. In traversing the highland glens and extensive woodlands of the north of Scotland my own impression was that a great natural renovation was taking place. I have noticed, on some of the highest mountains, Fir trees embedded in the peat. How many ages have passed away since those trees reared their heads aloft I am unable to say, but ever since they were laid low by fire or some great convulsion of Nature, the soil where they grew has been undergoing a natural preparation to receive their successors. The rapid growth of the Fir, where it has been extensively planted in the north, is a proof of what I state. It is impossible to conceive the extent of the ancient Scotch forests until one carefully examines the mountains and hills now bare and treeless. Where the relics of the trees that once flourished upon them lies concealed in the soil or peat, and it is very evident that if these extensive wastes are to be clothed with verdure, the hand of man must do it. " Be aye sticking in a tree, Jock ? " was the Laird of Dumbiedyke's advice to his son, and the advice should not be lost upon the present generation of Scotchmen, who, by adding to the Fir woods of their country, enhance the value of the cultivated land, and add also to the beauty of the district. J. T. SPINDLE TREES. A large proportion of these species are hardy enough for cultivation in Britain, and are now frequently met with either in the open Bhrubbery or on walls, for which some of the more tender of the evergreen sorts, from their free growth and beautiful foliage, arc admirably adapted. All the species have small and inconspicuous flowers, with little beauty to commend them to the attention of cultivators; but this defect is amply compensated for by their fine foliage, handsome habits of growth, and the bright showy fruit which some of the sorts produce in abundance in autumu aud winter. They grow well in almost every variety of soil, but aro most luxuriant in such as are rich in vegetable matter, such as peat or decayed leaves, and, as a rule, they prefer open sunny situations to exposed ones, particularly the evergreen sorts. They all thrive well in the vicinity of the sea, particularly the deciduous sorts. The following are among the most distinct and desirable of the species and varieties at present in cultivation : Eunonymus europasus (the common Spindle tree). — This is indigenous to England, as well as to a wide area on the Continent of Europe, and is a deciduous bushy tree, varying in height from 10 to 25 feet. The leaves are of a warm green colour, changing as they decay to a reddish tint. When bruised they have a disagreeable odour. Its small greenish -white flowers expand in May, and are followed almost always by an abundant crop of fruit, produced in bright pink capsules, which opening up in the autumn, reveal the orange. coloured sac which envelops the seeds, producing a strikingly beautiful effect. This tree is deservedly popular in shrubbery borders and in ornamental plantations. It always (ooks best when trained up for a few feet from the ground to a single stem, the upper branches being allowed free scope, or at least only pruned sufficiently to give it a trim tidy appearanoe. It is scarcely necessary to add that it is one of the hardiest of the group, and that it succeeds well near the sea. Of several varieties, the most interesting are the white fruited kind, which differs from the species in producing white instead of pink capsules ; the variety with scarlet leaves ; and nanus or pumilis, a neat little plant, very bushy, and one which never grows higher than about 2 feet, and it is admirably suited for a rock, garden, or any situation where a compact dwarf.plant is desirable. E. latifolius (the Broad-leaved Spindle tree). — This is another European species, found wild in the south of France and in some parts of Germany, and is a deciduous tree of from 10 to 20 feet high. The bark on the young wood is of a reddish-green colour. The leaves are bright shining greeu, and much larger than those of the common Euonymus. The flowers, which expand in June, are of a purplish-white ; the capsules large, and deep red, contrasting, as they open, most effectively with the bright orange sacs or arils, with which the seed is enveloped. It is quite hardy, but thrives best in moderate shelter, and forms an exceedingly ornamental tree, well fitted for a lawn or small park, as well as for associating with ever- greens in the mixed shrubbery border. E. americanus (the American Spindle tree). — This is a small deciduous, or, in mild winters and sheltered situations, sub-evergreen shrub, of about 6 feet in height, found wild over a wide area in Canada and the United States. It has an erect habit of growth, with numerous long slender branches covered with a smooth light green bark. The leaves are of a deep shining green. The flowers expand in June, and are succeeded by rough warted brilliant crimson capsules, which, in its native habitats are so showy and abundant that it is popularly called the Burning Bush. In this country it is generally cultivated as a wall plant, and as such it is very orna- mental. It succeeds best on the shady side, and prefers a moist rather than a dry porous soil. E.angustifolius (the Narrow-leaved Spindle tree). — This is also indigenous to North America, and is found in similar localities as 120 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 6, 1875. the preceding. It is a recambent twiggy evergreen or Rub-evergreen shrub of about 4 feet in height. It has long wiry branches, abundantly clothed with remarkably narrow oblong leaves, of a deep green colour in summer, changing in autumn to a dull red tint. The flowers are very small, of a greenish. white colour, followed by red fruit capsules, which are, however, neither produced in sufficient quantity here, nor conspicuous enough individually, to give the plant a feature. It is, nevertheless, a very distinct and interesting shrub for a low wall, and has a pretty effect on a rockery, growing freely in shady sheltered aspects, and in damp heavy soils. E. japonicus (the Japan Spindle tree). — This is an evergreen species of from 4 to 6 feet in height. It has an erect bushy habit of growth, the branches being long and slender, and clothed with numerous ovate-formed leaves of a dark glossy-green colour. Though hardy, and of free growth, in sheltered districts it seldom or never produces flowers in this country — a defect, however, which is amply compensated for by its very attractive foliage. Few evergreens thrive better near the sea than this does ; and either it, or some of its varieties, are frequently met with on the west and south coasts of England, and west coast of Scotland, growing in the greatest luxuriance, and forming handsome specimen shrubs on lawns and shrubberies. In the inland districts it is liable to suffer from very severe frosts, and can only be depended upon when enjoying the shelter of a wall or in favoured situations in the open ground. During recent years a considerable number of distinct varieties have been sent home from time to time from gardens in Japan ; several of these, and particularly the following variegated forms, are already established favourites. All the sorts thrive best in warm sunny exposures, and in rich well-drained soils. The kind called argenteus variegatus has leave3 clothed with silver ; aureus variegatus, leaves blotched with bright gold ; ovatus aureus, leaves margined with deep golden. yellow ; latifolius argenteus and latifolius aureus, leaves with white and yellow variegations respectively ; and radicans variegatus, a creeping.stemmed variety, seldom extending to a greater length than 2 feet ; its leaves are freely variegated with white ; it is very hardy, and useful for planting as an edging to flower-beds or front of shrubbery borders. On rockeries or low walls it has a pretty effect j and as it forms adventitious roots on the young shoots, similar to those of the Ivy, it requires little trouble in the way of tying or nailing to keep it to the wall or other support. — "The Gardener." Bad 'Writing and Illegible Signatures. — As the Parlia. mentary Session is approaching will you permit a suffeiing M.P. to make known a real grievance in which I feel sure that you will sympathise with me ? I allude to the increasing illegibility of hand- writing and the extraordinary pains that are taken by some people to disguise their signatures. I happen to have a large corre- spondence, and in other respects am not an idle man ; but, if I were, I should still find occupation in the daily attempt to decipher some of the letters I receive. If the writers only knew what an irresistible temptation there is to throw their hieroglyphics into the waste-paper basket unread, they would be a little more careful to make their handwriting decently plain and legible. How can they expect that in the pressure of business, and with perhaps a dozen letters to read which are brought by a single post, a member of Parliament can find time to sit down and puzzle out the meaning of his correspondent as patiently as if he were trying to decipher the inscription on the Moabitish stone, or some new variation of the cuneiform character. But it is chiefly with the signature that fantastic tricks are played. Often do I gaze hopelessly at the cabalistic sign whioh does duty for that office, and try every ingenious device to enable me to divine who it is that addresses me. I take my family into council and submit the curious symbol to my wife and daughters, who sometimes are able to solve the riddle and rescue me from my dilemma, but who are often as helpless as myself. I cannot always have Mr. Nether, clift or Mr. Chabot at my elbow, and I have boen driven to the expedient of cutting off the signature and posting it on the envelope which contains my reply. I thus throw upon my noble friend, the Postmaster-General, the responsibility of finding ont the name of my correspondent. There is one secretary of a company in London — yes, a secretary — who signs his name in a way which is unintelligible and ridiculous. Now, why should this be ? It has been said that language was given to conceal our thoughts, and some people seem to think that signatures are meant to hide our names. A drunken spider crawling out of an ink-bottle would really give as much infor. mation as the flourishes and dashes and rigmarole caricatures which they intend to stand for letters. I wish I could except the fair sex altogether from the charge of caprice in signatures, but I cannot, although in this respect they do not sin so much as men. Pray, Sir, say something to induce people to write plainly, clearly, and legibly, and you will confer a boon upon others besides an M.P. — " Times." GARDENING FOR THE WEEK, Flower Garden and Pleasure Grounds. Lawns seldom look fresher or more beautiful than at present, and for some time to come all that will be necessary in order to keep them in good condition will be an occasional sweeping and rolling. Mossy lawns are sometimes objected to, and where such is the case the present is a favourable time for endeavouring to eradicate the Moss, an operation which maybe accomplished by means of a sharp-toothed iron rake ; with this drag the Moss to the surface, when it should be cleared carefully off, and a portion of lawn Grass-seed (which maybe procured ready mixed from any seedsman) should be sown carefully over the cleared surface. After that a slight surface dressing of any finely-sifted rich soil should be applied, and well stirred in with an iron rake, and the whole should then be repeatedly rolled. Under trees, however, or in any other situations where Grass does not grow well, the Moss should not be disturbed ; on the contrary, it should rather be encouraged. Continue to frequently roll gravel walks and drives in order to keep them in good condition, and occasionally refresh the surfaces of beds of spring-flowering plants, which will now begin to be attractive. Prepare beds in which to plant Ranunculuses and Double Anemones, and push on as rapidly a3 possible the propagation of summer bedding plants, keeping store pots containing Ageratums, Bouvardias, Verbenas, Lobelias, Petunias, Coleuses, Iresines, and similar plants in a gentle bottom. heat, in order to induce them to furnish abundance of strong healthy cuttings. When sufficient of the latter have been secured, the autumn, struck cuttings may be thrown away, as those struck in spring are generally to be preferred, unless it be in the case of such plants as the various kinds of bedding Pelargoniums and Calceolarias. A very brisk heat is necessary to induce the Alternantheras, more particularly A. amoena, to furnish cuttings at an early period in the spring. But unless it be in cases where a very large stock of these plants is required, a high temperature need not as yet be applied to them, as when growth, in their case, does commence, they quickly produce abundance of cuttings which will strike root in the course of a few days ; and in their case, as in that of Verbenas and similar bedding plants, potting-off is unnecessary, as they may with advantage be allowed to remain in the cutting pots until required for planting out in the beds ; and thus a very considerable amount of labour, as well as of pots and space, may be saved. In adopting this plan, however, it is advisable to use pots about 8 inches in diameter, and to let them be well drained, say to about one-fourth or fifth of their depth. Over this spread a thin layer of chopped moss or fibre, in order to prevent the soil from mixing with the drainage, and then pass some moderately rich light soil through a half-inch sieve, and with a sieve of, say, one-quarter inch mesh, sift from this the finer particles, and with the portion which will not pass through the meshes fill the pots to within two inches of the rim. Then with a compost, consisting of about equal parts well-decayed leaf soil finely sifted, and sharp river or silver sand, fill up the remaining 2 inches, and into this insert the cuttings, not too deeply. Each pot will contain from two to three dozen cuttings, more or less, according to their size. Place them in a mild bottom-heat, in a somewhat close moist atmosphere, and frequently sprinkle them until they are fairly rooted, when they may be removed to cooler quarters. Plants thns prepared must be shaken out of their pots at planting time, when their roots will be found to have laid firm hold of the portion of rough soil which was placed under the sandy compost, and this ought to be allowed to adhere to them as much as possible. They should then be planted at once somewhat thickly in the prepared soil of the beds, with a small setting-stick ; and, should the weather prove dry, a little extra oare as regards watering may be necessary. Plants, thus treated, will gene, rally be found to succeed equally well, or better, than the same sorts turned out of small pots. — P. Gkieve, Cnlford, Bury St. Edmunds. Orchids. A rise of 5° in Orchid. houses this month will be beneficial to all re-potted plants. We must now pot and top-dress such plants as require that attention, and as a great deal depends on the freshness of the soil in securing a healthy growth, they must not be over potted. We seldom see healthy plants of Epidendrum vitellinum ; yet, when it is well grown, this is one of the most useful of Orchids. It lasts many weeks in bloom, and its colour is so distinct as to contrast strikingly with that of its associates. It should have a temperature in the autumn and winter months from 50° to 55°, and should never be allowed to get dry at the root. On bright days its growths should be syringed. Oncidium macranthum will be growing freely this month, and great caro will be required in watering to prevent the water coming in contact with the young growth, other, wise the flower-spike will be injured. This kind will grow in a temperature as low as 40° or 45°. Odontoglossum Hallii does well Feb. 6, 1875.] THE GAKDBN. 121 in the same temperature, and will produce flower-spikes 3 to 4 feet in length, with twenty flowers on a spike. When seen like this, it is one of the most noble of our cool Orchids, and if it be possible to get it, should be sought after by importers. The same degree of temperature suits 0. nebulosum, which should never be allowed to get dry at the root. When well grown and flowered this kind is very useful to arrange with others. Calanthe Veitchii and C. vestita should not be potted till they have made sufficient growth to render the young roots discernible. Two parts of strong loam, one part of old cow-manure, and one part of coarse sand and charcoal should then be used, and the pots placed in a temperature of 65° to 70°. Pot the favourite Masdevallias in equal parts of peat and Sphagnum Moss and a double quantity of coarse sand and charcoal. Always keep it well supplied with water, and maintain a temperature of 45° to 55°. Pleiones will require watering more freely this month, and must be syringed on bright days. Dendrobinms and Cypri- pediums that are making growth should have the warmest part of the house they are placed in, and must be syringed on bright days. Water should be used sparingly till they have established plenty of roots. Continue to keep Disa grandiflora plentifully supplied with water. Ccelogyne cristata will now be in its beauty, as will also the section of Cattleyas to which Trianse belongs, as well as Lycaste Skinueri and its white variety, Pilumna fragrans, Oncidium bical- Iosum, Dendrobium nobile, D. infundibulum, Lselia superbiens, Cypripedium villosum, Odontoglossum Blnntii, 0. pulchellum, 0- Hallii, Vanda suava, Phalfenopsis grandiflora, &c. — E. Cv"Lley. Fern-house. The first or second week in this month is a good time to go over Ferns, re-potting such as require it and top-dressing others, using good peat with a liberal admixture of coal cinders broken to the size of acorns ; these are more effectual in keeping the soil open than potshreds. All tree Ferns grow quickest when their steins are syringed once or twice a day duting their season of growth, but if they arc required for the decoration of halls or for exhibition at times, it is better not to syringe, as the roots that are encouraged by syringing receive a check, in which case they are likely to be ruined. Large Gleicheuias may be divided, but not into small pieces ; plants, say in 18 or 20-inch pots, may bo divided into two or four. Of all Ferns for mixing with flowers, either in vases or in bouquets, Gleichenia Spelunca? stands pre-eminent. It will last for a week in water. It is not advisable to cut small plants ; but, when well managed, all the varieties are quick growers, and when the plants get large they will bear cutting in moderation with impunity. In large Ferneries, where most things are planted out, the selection and planting require judgment, in order that suitable varieties may occupy the positions for which they are best adapted, studying well what proportions each individual plant is likely to attain, quite as much as present effect, otherwise, instead of a satisfactory arrange, ment of these most elegant of vegetable forms, a confused jumble will be the result. Another important consideration is to have the plants free from insects, such as mealy bug or scale, otherwise endless labour will be entailed. Such kinds as Adiantum Farleyense and the Gymnogrammas require more heat during the winter than the majority of the occupants of the Fern-house, and it is better to remove such kinds for the winter to a slightly warmer house. The Fern- house during winter ought not to be kept at more than 50° night temperature, with a rise of 5° during the day. It is a mistake to use too much heat in the Fem-house, as it makes its inmates so tender that such as are required for cutting flag so as to be almost useless, and if the plants are required for decoration elsewhere they suffer as well as become unsightly. As soon as growth commences supply them liberally with water. Hard-wooded Plants. Bring all tying and training to a close as soon as possible, and prepare for potting all plants that require a shift towards the end of the month. Commence first with hard-wooded Heaths ; half speci- mens and full-grown plants that require more root.room ought to be moved into pots 4 inches larger than those they at present occupy, for it is not desirable to re-pot these plants oftener than can be helped. See that the ball in all cases is sufficiently moistened before re-potting, so that watering may be avoided as long as possible after the operation. All newly-potted plants should be set at one end of the house, and do not admit more air at the end than can be avoided for three weeks or a month, keeping, at the same time, the stage damped with the syringe. Where there is not the convenience of separate houses for Heaths and for other kinds of hard-wooded plants, but where all have to be grown together, the Heaths ought, as far as possible, to be kept at one end, at which, except after recent potting, admit more air. After the potting of the Heaths is finished, commence with the other hard-wooded stock, using peat a little more fibrous, or what is known among plant-growers as softer, than that which is used for the Heaths ; but operating, in other respects, as recommended for those plants. Any additions that are intended to be made to the young stock of hard-wooded plants ought to be made forthwith, and all that require it potted on, giving to them pots 2 or 3 inches larger, according to the condition of the roots of each individual plant. All the plants, young and old, ought to have the potting completed as expeditiously as possible after it is once commenced, as then the whole can have what extra attention they require. Indoor Fruit Department. Vines. — Wireworms often prove destructive to the young Vines, as they devour the tender rootlets as soon as they are emitted, and frequently also any young shoots that are on the eyes at the time. It is difficult to trap them, but in the case of small pots, when the soil gets heated to 80° they generally come to the surface, when they may be removed and destroyed. If the soil used is in the shape of turves, or in boxes or beds, slices of Carrots placed here and there underneath the surface will be found to form good traps for them. The Carrots should be examined every morning and replaced until the whole are caught. If a small stake is pushed into every slice, it will form a handle by which the Carrot slices may be raised and examined. Wireworms will not remain long in company with ants, which attack and kill them. Keep the surface soil about young Vines free from weeds, and do not allow the surface to become pasty — on the contrary, keep it constantly free and open. If not already done, remove the weakest shoot from such "cut backs" as have pushed two shoots. As soon as the one left has reached a height of 18 inches, lift the pot out of the plunging material and set it on a dry surface in the Vinery, or in some pit in which a temperature of 70° is maintained. If retained in bottom-heat after this stage has been reached, they receive more harm than good. Although I do not approve of the system where any house of young Vines is intended to be an early one from the first, they should be planted about the second or third week in February, in order that they may be started into growth in time to be early ripened for a corresponding start the next and following seasons. I need hardly say that only Vines belonging to the Hamburgh section should be chosen for such a purpose. Pines. — Such plants in tho first started batch of Queens as did not fruit well have been kept somewhat drier than the others during the last few weeks. A good watering should, therefore, now be given them ; and, in all probability, they will show fruit in a short time. If not, do not neglect them, as they may be of good service in autumn. Other varieties may fruit while growing freely, but Queens do so reluctantly. A check to their growth is always necessary, in order to induce them to fruit, which appears before growth in the foliage begins. Admit fresh air to young plants on all favourable occasions, as it is very desirable to have their foliage partly hardened when the shortest days are past, and before lifting them into other pots has taken place. If it is necessary to make preparations for giving the young plants more room, old stumps from which the fruit has been cut may be removed. Suckers should, however, be carefully taken off valuable kinds, securingalong with them as many as possible of such young roots as will be found clinging round the old stem. Such suckers wdl not suffer in the least if laid in by the heels amongst the plunging material until the Pines generally are shifted when they may be potted and plunged along with the others. — J. Mum. The Early Peach-house. — The fruit will now be set in the earliest house, and syringings morning and evening will be required in favourable weather. Attention should likewise be bestowed on the thinning of the fruit where they are set thickly, but this rarely happens when forcing commences so early. The disbudding of the shoots is a process best performed by taking off only a few of the strongest at different times, so as not to give a check to the roots. The temperature at night may be maintained at about 60°, with a rise to 70° by day, and by sunheat 6° or 8° higher. Green fly will begin to make its appearance, and the infected shoots must be picked off ; but fumigation with tobacco will have to be resorted to at the last. The old system of fumigating hot-houses with the operator- inside the house is now obsolete, and it was a cruel infliction on young gardeners and others who could not stand tobacco smoke. Somo of the new patented fumigators are very efficient for the pur. pose ; for, by making a hole in each door of the house for introducing their nozzles from the outside, the house can be soon quite filled with smoke, and kept so for any required time. Fig-house. — Figs should be kept well watered and syringed with the night temperature at about 60°. When the young shoots have grown to the length of four or five joints, the terminal buds must be picked out to encourage the formation of a second crop. 122 THE GAKDEN. [Feb. 6, 1875. Cherry-house — The temperature must be kept low, from 40° to 50°, with plenty of air given on favourable occasions, until the fruit is set. After that they will bear more heat, with frequent syringings overhead, till the fruit colours. Strawberries.— Occasional batches will want to be introduced into the pits or forcing-houses according to the consumption required. When sufficient fruit has been set on a truss, the rest of the blossoms should be picked off to strengthen the fruit left on. Liquid manure, if used twice a week, will help the fruit to swell, but it must be discontinued before the fruit begins to colour. Cucumber and Melon-house or Pit.— The sun will now be more powerful, and, therefore, more favourable for forcing Cucumbers and Melons. A night temperature of from G0° to 65° is not too much, and the day temperature, by sunheat, may range to 80°. Maintain plenty of moisture on the pathways and plants, but beware of scalding draughts of steam by dashing water on the pipes or flues. Another sowmg of seed may be made to supply the general stock of plants, for gardeners always find a good many friends begging Cucumber plants in March and April to plant in their frames. Tomatoes.— This excellent fruit, if sown in the beginning of February and pushed on in heat, will ripen good crops in pots as early as May or Juno. The dwarf Orangefield is the best for this purpose. The Trophy and General Grant do not fruit so freely, and are later m bearing. Kitchen Garden. Sow a few seeds of Red Cabbage to succeed those sown in autumn. In some establishments Red Cabbages are used for other purposes besides pickling, and, therefore, it may be advisable to have a few coming in at various times to meet any domand that may arise. Plant early Potatoes on a warm dry harder, where there is a good depth of rich soil. If they were placed in shallow trays as advised some time back, they will now be in good condition for planting ; all growths, except one strong shoot, should be removed. In planting, either open trenches with the spade or draw rather deep drills with a long bladed hoe shaped like a carpenter's adze (a very useful tool for heavy soils), scatter a little thoroughly decayed manure along the bottom of the drills, place the Potato sets on it, and cover about 4 inches deep. Early Potatoes may be planted much closer to each other than later crops, and some pains should be taken to limit the growth so as to allow only one shoot to spring from each tuber; this alone will make a week's difference in the period of ripening, and make the crop more uniform in size. No crop pays better for liberal treatment, and where there is a scarcity of other manure, superphosphates may be profitably used for pushing on the growth and increasing the yield ; about 7 or 8 lbs. per rod may be applied, sown in the drills with the Potatoes at planting time. Plant out now the main crop of Shallots and Garlic; only a small quantity of the latter is required in English establishments, but Shallots are largely used. Select a light dry situation on one of the quarters that have been laid up rough during the winter ; burnt earth or charred refuse makes a good top-dressing to be mixed with the surface. Plant the bulbs in rows at a distance from each other of 1 foot, and 6 inches apart in the rows. In heavy land, avoid deep planting ; simply press the base of the bulbs into the earth, and have ready a few bushels of light rich soil, in which burnt earth predominates, and place a handful in a small mound over each bulb. This will tend to secure them in the earth, and, being of an elastic nature, will offer no obstacle to their swelling to a good size, as the light coverings will crumble down to tho natural level as the season advances. Make a further sowing of Peas ; Dickson's First and Best is a very prolific kind, coming in a few days later than Ringleader. Huntingdonian may be sown at tho same time for succession ; this is tho best of the Cham, pion of England type I have yet seen. Long-pod and Green Windsor Beans may also be planted ; tho latter variety is generally the most esteemed, on account of its beautiful green colour, for the main crop. Beans sown last month in boxes under glass must be thoroughly hardened off by removing the lights whenever the weather is favour- able. The same remark also applies to Peas that are now waiting in cold frames ; transplanting Peas and Beans in this way has a tendency to induce early maturity, which, with tho earliest crop, is of moro importance than heavy and continuous bearings, as in most places tho second sowing follows so closely on tho heels of tho first as to render that unnecessary. Sow tho round-leaved Spinach betwoon the rows of Peas every two or threo weeks, and frequently stir the soil amongst tho autumn-sown crop to encourage its growth, as there is usually in most places a large demand for this wholesome vegetable. Parsley may be sown any time this month, either in beds or as an edging to borders; sow in shallow drills thinly, and cover with light rich soil. In covering small seeds any little trouble incurred in this way will be amply repaid by a plentiful crop. — E. Hobday. THE ELEPHANT HAWK MOTH. This moth (Choerocampaelpenor) is tolerably common throughoutEng. Ian 1. The larva? feed naturally on Willow Herb (Epilobinm) and on Bedstraw (Galium), but in gardens it confines itself chiefly to plants belonging to the natural order Onagraceas, which are probably its proper food plants ; for though Bedstraw is said to be one of them, and though I am aware, from personal observation, that it will feed and do well on this kind of plant, still it is usually found upon those of the same order as Willow Herb. It is very frequently met with on the Fuchsia gracilis. These caterpillars were discovered in this neighbourhood (South Wales) last year, in some numbers, on Fraser's Evening Primrose (Oenothera Fraseri), a plant brought here from North America in 1811, aud no doubt it maybe found on the common Evening Primrose (Oenothera biennis), and on plants of the same order, such as Enchanter's Nightshade (Circsea Lutetiana). The Elephant Hawk moth is a very remarkable caterpillar in appearance ; it is 3 inches long, or more, the anterior segments being much smaller than the posterior ones, and the head smaller than the second segment. The colour is either brown or green, and is variously mottled and marked with black, the marks along the back forming an almost uninterrupted dorsal line ; on each side of the fore part of the body are two dark round marks, in the upper part of each of which is a white kidney-shaped mark. From its large size and strange appearance it is sure to attract the eye of the most casual observer. It occurs in such very limited numbers that it is not likely to do much damage to our gardens, unless it attacks some choice plants of the CEnothera or Fuchsia tribe. The moth flies in June, and is a very beautiful object; the fore wings are much pointed, their colour is olive-green, tinted and shaded with pink ; the hind wings are black at the base, shading off to the same delicate pink at the hind margin, which is edged with white ; the body is of the same olive-green colour as the fore wings, and is tinged and marked with pink. Owen Wilson. ACREAGE OF ORCHARDS, MARKET GARDENS, &c. According to a Blue Book return, just published, the following is the acreage under orchards, market gardens, nursery grounds, and woods in each county in England, Scotland, and Wales, in 1874: Oechaeds, MARKET NUESEEY Woods. &c. GARDENS. Grounds. Counties. Acreage of arable or Grass lands, but used also for fruit trees of any kind. Land used by market gardeners for growth of vegetables and other garden produce. Land used by nurserymen for growing trees, shrubs, &c. Coppices or plantations, excepting gorse land and garden shrubberies. ENGLAND. Acres. Acres. Acres. Acres. Bedford 377 729 16 10,394 Berks 1,315 221 156 30,780 Buckingham 1,637 219 71 24,196 Cambridge 1,055 667 122 5,035 Chester 1,203 774 331 11,921 Cornwall 4,180 877 71 26,374 Cumberland 205 187 141 24,380 Derby 6U6 357 363 23,406 Devon 21,312 913 416 66,191 Dorset 3,416 163 135 29,383 Durham 155 488 33 21,901 Essex 1,055 4,161 353 29,061 Gloucester 11,153 1,081 220 41,295 Hants 1,077 992 166 87,229 Hereford 21,634 32 127 34,885 Hertford 1,197 231 408 20,714 Huntingdon 335 315 47 2,683 Kent 11,186 4,064 575 78,184 Lancaster 1,724 939 357 31,616 Leicester 511 283 113 9,638 Lincoln 1,188 605 118 35,441 Middlesex 2,616 6,368 469 3,174 Monmouth 2,451 171 31 28,531 Norfolk 1,346 905 116 41,251 Northampton 569 281 131 24,112 Northumberland .. 176 430 83 31,231 Nottingham 1,169 407 186 23,640 Oxford 805 221 72 15,563 Rutland 28 37 9 3,091 Salop 2,659 67 114 39,669 Somerset 19,8,7 813 211 39,658 Stafford 814 631 255 33,101 Suffolk 1,077 329 100 32,562 Surroy 1,681 1,601 1,309 48,094 Sussex 1,659 833 427 101,331 Warwick 828 359 99 18,529 Westmoreland 169 13 18 15,845 Wilts 2,163 231 82 40,419 Worcester ... 13,390 1,503 282 16,904 f East Riding York-' North Ridin? 564 461 197 11,357 757 283 154 46,020 (.West Riding Total for Englam 1,224 1,602 474 60,740 115,622 34,689 9,245 1,325,655 Feb. 6, 1875.] THE GARDEN. 123 Counties. SCOTLAND. Aberdeen Argylo Ayr Banff .... Berwick' Bute Caithness Clackmannan Dumbarton Dumfries Edinburgh Elgin or Moray Fife Forfar Haddington Inverness Kincardine Kinross Kirkcudbright Lanark Linlithgow Nairn Orkney Shetland Peebles 1'crth Renfrew Roes and Cromarty Roxburgh Selkirk Stirling Sutherland Wigtown Total for Scotland OnCHAllDS, &c. 8 513 6.9 O